¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Date

Re: Undervoltage Problems

 

A low power supply voltage can cause electronics to do unexpected things. but pretty much never
causes damage.? ?When bringing up a new board,? you are far more likely to cause damage by
bringing it to the target voltage suddenly instead of looking for trouble as the voltage is slowly increased.
Lots of things can kill a uBitx, but I wouldn't worry about operating at too low of a voltage.
Much more important to avoid over-voltage, watch for heat build up, and test with a good dummy load.

Reed is correct that writing to non-volatile memory with too low a power supply can cause corrupted data,
but if this happens we can simply reprogram the device.? A well designed device will lock out such writes
if the on chip voltage monitor shows the supply is too low.? A system that can't easily be fully reprogrammed
is a poorly designed system.?

It should be easier to save or record any critical EEPROM data on the uBitx.

The ATMega328P on the Nano? is spec'd to operate at a lower processor clock speed when operating
at 3.3v instead of 5.0v.? Operating the ATMega328P at 20mhz with a 3.3v clock can bring on
unexpected behavior, but would not damage the part.? As the gamers know, operating a high powered
processor clock speeds above the spec can cause the processor to overheat and do unexpected things,
but overheating is not an issue when operating at too low of a supply voltage.

I doubt there is much danger of damage to a CMOS output driver from a low power supply.
As Reed's Id vs Vds curves show, current through the device drops as either Vgs or Vds falls.
It can do unexpected things with a low supply, but it won't fry.
This applies to other push-pull drivers, such as the IRF510 final and the audio power amp.

I spent 40 years as a digital design engineer, sometimes bringing up boards with over a hundred IC's.
Sometimes just a few IC's, but with one or two being FPGA's with perhaps 1000 pins, a billion transistors,
and a half dozen different power supplies to sequence.? ?My preferred method of bringing up a new
design has been to power it from a bench supply with meters showing both voltage and current draw,
set the power supply's maximum current to a bit more than I expect the design to take, then very slowly
increase the voltage from zero volts with one hand while using the other hand to feel the board for
hot spots, checking any voltage regulators as they go into regulation.? ?I've seen plenty of smoke and
blown traces, but this has never been from a problem of feeding the board too low of a voltage.

Power supply sequencing is a whole other can of worms, something I was very careful to get right.
Occasionally I goofed and parts got warm, but never blew (they certainly could have blown).

Some extremely high powered logic parts (74ASxxx family parts, I'm looking at you) can overheat
and/or oscillate when an input signal is in the transition region between logic 1 and logic 0.? This is
why it is good practice to tie unused logic inputs to a solid logic 1 or 0 (typically to ground).
Many parts have some hysteresis designed into the input buffers, mostly avoiding this issue.

If the electronics is controlling a conveyor belt or an autonomous vehicle, this definitely must be?
designed in such a way that bad things don't happen when the electronics behaves in an
unexpected manner.? Fortunately, the uBitx does not fall into this category.

Often users here mention how the radio still seems to work with the power supply off, after
programming from a host computer over the USB port into the Nano.? In this case the 5v from
the USB cable is back-feeding through the LM7805 into the uBitx main board, which might be
seeing 4v or so.? ?Primary issue is you might burn something out on the Nano if the uBitx
main board draws too much current, I've added a 1n4007 diode in line between the 12v
line into the raduino and the LM7805 to prevent the USB port from powering the radio.

Jerry, KE7ER


On Thu, May 6, 2021 at 12:23 AM, Reed N wrote:
Over at /g/BITX20/topic/ubitx_v6_specifications/82557868 I saw some folks wondering how in the world something could be damaged by undervoltage, since as we all know, when things are turned off, they're at 0V. It's pretty obvious to most people that high voltage can cause all sorts of damage - sparks, heat, and the "magic smoke" - but the ways that undervoltage causes damage are a bit more subtle. In this rather lengthy post, I'll hopefully provide enough background to explain why undervoltage can be problematic, and give a couple scenarios where it could cause damage. While I do include a decent amount of detail, this is by no means meant to be a comprehensive guide.


Re: uB v3 on ebay

 

It's already up to $52 plus shipping.

I have an untouched, unbuilt v3 still in the shipping box. Never opened, never touched by a soldering iron. What would be a fair price? Any interest here?

Clay NF7X


Teensy 4.1 #ubitxv6

 

Anyone wanting the TSW Teensy 4.1 Raduino kit, they are still available.? We have located a source of 5351 clock/VFO chips and it turns out that Mouser electronics, at least, has over 700 Teensy 4.1's in stock so we are not dead in the water as first thought.

Details on the Raduino Clone kit that uses the Teensy 4.1 are on the TSW website, .

I have recently designed a chip test set for the Si5351a-b-gt and the Chinese version MS5351M and 100 percent test every 5351 chip we send out (already soldered on the PCB) for our T4.1 Raduino Clone kits.?

Take note, TSW sells these as a "you build it" kit only, for the uBITX V6,? they are NOT wired and tested units.? The kits come with the 5351 chip soldered in place, connections checked, and all other parts needed to build it LESS the Teensy 4.1 and the display. A NEXTION display WILL NOT work with this board as we designed it to use the original display from your V6 uBITX or an identical 2.8 inch ILI9341 Color TFT touch screen display from Amazon or other sources.

We have had several people not read the website info and think these T4.1 Raduino Clones were ready built and then got mad when they received kits.?

The pricing information on TSW's website is currently correct (kit is $35 plus shipping & handling).

Jim, W0EB
TSW Project Coordinator


Re: R1.4.0 Software Release #ubitx #nano #v6 #ubitxv6

 

Reed,
I want to thank you for the excellent job you did on the manual. It was easy to read and the steps for updating the firmware were easy to follow.
I ran into no hitches even though I had no previous experience with Arduino.


Re: Undervoltage Problems

 

Great write up Reed,
This deep work and you explained it so well. Like me, I am sure many of us here have picked up so much from it all.
I was always curious of how the totem pole worked with varying voltages, your explanation is succinct and clear.
- f

On Thu 6 May, 2021, 12:54 PM Reed N, <greenkid336600+groupsio@...> wrote:

Over at /g/BITX20/topic/ubitx_v6_specifications/82557868 I saw some folks wondering how in the world something could be damaged by undervoltage, since as we all know, when things are turned off, they're at 0V. It's pretty obvious to most people that high voltage can cause all sorts of damage - sparks, heat, and the "magic smoke" - but the ways that undervoltage causes damage are a bit more subtle. In this rather lengthy post, I'll hopefully provide enough background to explain why undervoltage can be problematic, and give a couple scenarios where it could cause damage. While I do include a decent amount of detail, this is by no means meant to be a comprehensive guide.

TOO LONG; DIDN'T READ
Undervoltage can cause undefined behavior and partial-conductance, which can put your device in bad states and operating conditions, temporarily or permanently.

THE ANALOG NATURE OF DIGITAL LOGIC GATES
Digital logic assumes finite states, usually binary 0 or 1. In reality, all signals are actually analog approximation, usually with 0V for 0, and then some higher voltage for 1 - it could be 1.2V, 1.8V, 3.3V, 5V, etc., but let's assume in our system it's the Arduino 5V IO standard. With these two values in mind, consider an input voltage of 2.5V: is that a binary 0, or a binary 1? The answer, unsurprisingly, is "neither". However, that raises some serious questions. What should the system do if it encounters a 2.5V signal? The output needs to be a 0 or a 1, so we shouldn't output 2.5V, but picking 0V or 5V at random would mean our output data is random, which isn't what we want either. The only fool-proof solution is to "not do that" - don't ever send a signal that isn't a 0V or 5V. But if we're not allowed to send anything between 0V and 5V, then we'd never be able to change between 0V and 5V, since pesky physics says we can't instantaneously change voltage. Rather, we have to change over some (possibly very small but) non-zero amount of time. So if we want our system to be able to change (and thus actually do stuff), but we also don't want any voltage except 0V or 5V, then we need a way to ignore all the middle voltages, and only look at the 0V and 5V signal states. That's where propagation delay and clocks come in. The clock on a digital circuit provides a way to only look at the input voltages at certain times. As long as the time it takes to switch voltages from 0V to 5V and 5V to 0V are shorter than the clock period, we know that when the clock signal comes, our inputs will all look like either 0V or 5V, just like we wanted! Great!

Let's suppose the input signal to our system that is only 4.9V, not 5V. This could be due to a manufacturing defect, or some resistive loss on the input, but regardless, 4.9V looks a lot like 5V, so we probably want to interpret it as a binary 1, and output a 5V signal. But we said before that 2.5V is undecidable, so there's got to be some threshold at which we can confidently call a signal binary 1, and another threshold we can confidently call a signal binary 0. We call the highest voltage at which an input will definitely be considered a binary 0 "Voltage Input Low", often shortened to V_IL. We call the lowest voltage at which an input will definitely be considered a binary 1 "Voltage Input High", often shortened to V_IH. If we consider an inverter, the graph of inputs vs outputs usually looks something like this, assuming a fixed nominal system voltage:

You'll note that the V_IL and V_IH are somewhat conservative. This is intentional. We expect some process manufacturing variation, so we define V_IL and V_IH not so that they're mathematically the most pleasing (e.g. <2.5 is a 0, >2.5 is a 1), but rather so that in the worst case - if all our expected manufacturing variations all push the curve in the wrong direction - inputs at V_IH and V_IL will still produce the correct output signals. Cool! Our system now works nominally with 0V and 5V signals, but also tolerates some amount of "real life" variation.

UNDERCLOCKING
Next suppose you provide your system with 3.3V instead of 5V, not as the input, but as the supply voltage. Now none of the signals are 5V, so are they all binary 0's? Well obviously not - we can define 3.3V as the new value for binary 1, and we're happy, right? Not quite. Digital logic is actually a bunch of analog transistors running to saturation to produce those nice high 5V 1's and low 0V 0's. If we assume they are MOSFETs, then our logic gate's input voltage allows current to flow, which charges up the gate capacitance of the next logic gate. No problems so far, but unfortunately (in this case), transistors operate differently depending on their gate voltages and the difference between their drain and source voltages. You've probably seen a graph of gate voltage vs current that will pass through a MOSFET like this:

Why do we care? Because what it tells us is that if our system voltage is lower, both V_GS and V_DS will be lower, which per the graph means that our drive current will also be lower. The drive current is what determines the propagation delay between receiving a new input (V_GS) and achieving our desired output (now 0V or 3.3V), since we need to charge the next logic piece's gate capacitance. If we have less current, it takes longer to charge the next gate, so our propagation delay increases. If our propagation delay increases too much, we may take longer to achieve our desired output than it takes for the next clock signal to come! Note that there's an easy fix for this. If we increase our clock's period, decreasing it's frequency (known as underclocking), then we can give ourselves more time for the signal to propagate, and thus make sure we reach our desired output before the next clock signal arrives. Crisis averted! But do we actually have control over our clock speed? In a lot of cases, we do at design time, but not while operating. For instance, if we picked a 16MHz clock suitable for 5V, but then only provided 3.3V, then 16MHz may be faster than the system can actually propagate the full signal swings, so we may be stuck getting bad values at 3.3V.

WHAT'S THE WORST THAT COULD HAPPEN?
We've discussed some issues with signals being in mid-way points, and saw that it can make it difficult to decide on a "correct" output choice, but haven't examined what sorts of problems it can cause. For some applications, like in medical equipment or a guided missile, it's easy to understand that a single miscalculation could literally be life-and-death. Okay, fine. But we're dealing with hobby radio stuff, so what's the harm in a wrong bit from time to time? Just power cycle the radio and we're back to business, right? Often times, in practice, that's probably right. However, consider what it means to run a program. The processor is constantly changing many bits at once, and in most consumer and hobby grade devices, the processor assumes that every operation it does is done correctly every time. If a bit that is supposed to be a 1 isn't quite high enough (less than V_IH), or a 0 isn't quite low enough (more than V_IL), then what happens next is largely up to chance.

For instance, if the program counter reads a 1 where it was supposed to be a 0, then you've suddenly ended up at a random location in your code, and will start executing who knows what instructions, which will re-interpret your stack data in any sort of manner. Often times this will lead to invalid instructions being attempted and crash, but it could also end up being more subtle, where the program still runs, but is now operating on the wrong data. A mis-interpreted bit in a register could cause the program to activate some undesired behavior, like turning the transmitter circuit on when it shouldn't be, or cause us to save the wrong configuration data. Since we don't know which bits are more or less likely to fail first due to lower voltage, it's impossible to say exactly what failure mode we'd see.

In a lot of scenarios, turning the system fully off, then re-powering with sufficient voltage will recover. However, for systems with non-volatile memory (e.g. flash), an undervoltage system voltage can corrupt or destroy data, rendering the system inoperable or "bricked". Similar to our logic gates above, non-volatile memory requires certain electrical parameters in order to store values that are "definitely 0" and "definitely 1". If we apply insufficient voltages when writing to these memories, we can end up with bits stored as in-between states, that aren't clearly readable as 0 or 1. When reading back properly stored data, insufficient voltage can corrupt our read process, returning incorrect bits. If this memory happens to be our program data, then incorrect bits could make it impossible for us to successfully run our program or boot. In particular, if this program data was written by the factory, or happens to be one-time-programmable, and we don't have the ability to reprogram the memory from an external programmer, we may now have "bricked" our system for good.

Finally, to see some real potential for damage, let's consider a typical CMOS inverter gate:

When V_in is 0V or 5V, one of the FETs is fully on, and the other is fully off, so current can only flow to or from V_out. However, if our system voltage is too low, we can get into a state where both FETs are consistently partially-on, meaning there is a direct path from the system voltage, through the FETs, to ground. Depending on the nature of the FETs, the current flow could be enough to fry them, or the resistors or wires they're connected to. Even if the FETs themselves survive, with enough gates in these unstable states, our system could end up oscillating wildly from small system voltage fluctuations, and/or draw significantly more current than it would during normal voltage operation, potentially damaging other components, like the power supply, or even indirectly damaging adjacent parts due to excessive heat generation. Note that this particular problem is not specific to logic gates in a processor, but also applies to similarly-configured push-pull transistor setups, like H-bridges.

TURNING OFF AND ON
To power a device on or off, there must be some time during which the system voltage is greater than zero, but not yet in the "safe" area, so why don't digital devices corrupt, fail, or self-destruct constantly? There's no one single answer, because different devices have different solutions to this problem. Some devices have built-in circuits specifically designed to detect the supply voltage, and only enable themselves once the voltages are high enough to be safe. An example of this is the brown out detection system in the Arduino. Many devices have requirements for how long their supply voltages are allowed to take to transition from 0V to the target (e.g. 5V). Just like the propagation delay with periodic clocks, if the supply voltage comes up fast enough, all signals can be "locked in" to good states before any uncertain behavior regions have a chance to corrupt bits, or significant current can pass through the partially-on FETs. A related solution is to not provide the clock signal until the supply voltage has been up for a certain amount of time. This ensures that no logic gates are required to read input signals until those input signals have had time to stabilize.

For powering down, similar rules apply. The device might require voltage to drop from the nominal system voltage to 0V within a certain amount of time, or to stop the clock input prior to removing power. It may also require that potentially unsafe operations, like writing to non-volatile memory, be stopped some amount of time before removing power. In more complicated systems, we may need to remove power first from the "dangerous" parts, like the high voltage from a motor driver for an antenna rotator, or disabling writes to non-volatile memory, before removing power from the respective controller unit. In this way, while there may be a few mis-interpreted bits as the system powers down, they won't be able to cause dangerous or long-lasting behavior.


Undervoltage Problems

 

Over at /g/BITX20/topic/ubitx_v6_specifications/82557868 I saw some folks wondering how in the world something could be damaged by undervoltage, since as we all know, when things are turned off, they're at 0V. It's pretty obvious to most people that high voltage can cause all sorts of damage - sparks, heat, and the "magic smoke" - but the ways that undervoltage causes damage are a bit more subtle. In this rather lengthy post, I'll hopefully provide enough background to explain why undervoltage can be problematic, and give a couple scenarios where it could cause damage. While I do include a decent amount of detail, this is by no means meant to be a comprehensive guide.

TOO LONG; DIDN'T READ
Undervoltage can cause undefined behavior and partial-conductance, which can put your device in bad states and operating conditions, temporarily or permanently.

THE ANALOG NATURE OF DIGITAL LOGIC GATES
Digital logic assumes finite states, usually binary 0 or 1. In reality, all signals are actually analog approximation, usually with 0V for 0, and then some higher voltage for 1 - it could be 1.2V, 1.8V, 3.3V, 5V, etc., but let's assume in our system it's the Arduino 5V IO standard. With these two values in mind, consider an input voltage of 2.5V: is that a binary 0, or a binary 1? The answer, unsurprisingly, is "neither". However, that raises some serious questions. What should the system do if it encounters a 2.5V signal? The output needs to be a 0 or a 1, so we shouldn't output 2.5V, but picking 0V or 5V at random would mean our output data is random, which isn't what we want either. The only fool-proof solution is to "not do that" - don't ever send a signal that isn't a 0V or 5V. But if we're not allowed to send anything between 0V and 5V, then we'd never be able to change between 0V and 5V, since pesky physics says we can't instantaneously change voltage. Rather, we have to change over some (possibly very small but) non-zero amount of time. So if we want our system to be able to change (and thus actually do stuff), but we also don't want any voltage except 0V or 5V, then we need a way to ignore all the middle voltages, and only look at the 0V and 5V signal states. That's where propagation delay and clocks come in. The clock on a digital circuit provides a way to only look at the input voltages at certain times. As long as the time it takes to switch voltages from 0V to 5V and 5V to 0V are shorter than the clock period, we know that when the clock signal comes, our inputs will all look like either 0V or 5V, just like we wanted! Great!

Let's suppose the input signal to our system that is only 4.9V, not 5V. This could be due to a manufacturing defect, or some resistive loss on the input, but regardless, 4.9V looks a lot like 5V, so we probably want to interpret it as a binary 1, and output a 5V signal. But we said before that 2.5V is undecidable, so there's got to be some threshold at which we can confidently call a signal binary 1, and another threshold we can confidently call a signal binary 0. We call the highest voltage at which an input will definitely be considered a binary 0 "Voltage Input Low", often shortened to V_IL. We call the lowest voltage at which an input will definitely be considered a binary 1 "Voltage Input High", often shortened to V_IH. If we consider an inverter, the graph of inputs vs outputs usually looks something like this, assuming a fixed nominal system voltage:

You'll note that the V_IL and V_IH are somewhat conservative. This is intentional. We expect some process manufacturing variation, so we define V_IL and V_IH not so that they're mathematically the most pleasing (e.g. <2.5 is a 0, >2.5 is a 1), but rather so that in the worst case - if all our expected manufacturing variations all push the curve in the wrong direction - inputs at V_IH and V_IL will still produce the correct output signals. Cool! Our system now works nominally with 0V and 5V signals, but also tolerates some amount of "real life" variation.

UNDERCLOCKING
Next suppose you provide your system with 3.3V instead of 5V, not as the input, but as the supply voltage. Now none of the signals are 5V, so are they all binary 0's? Well obviously not - we can define 3.3V as the new value for binary 1, and we're happy, right? Not quite. Digital logic is actually a bunch of analog transistors running to saturation to produce those nice high 5V 1's and low 0V 0's. If we assume they are MOSFETs, then our logic gate's input voltage allows current to flow, which charges up the gate capacitance of the next logic gate. No problems so far, but unfortunately (in this case), transistors operate differently depending on their gate voltages and the difference between their drain and source voltages. You've probably seen a graph of gate voltage vs current that will pass through a MOSFET like this:

Why do we care? Because what it tells us is that if our system voltage is lower, both V_GS and V_DS will be lower, which per the graph means that our drive current will also be lower. The drive current is what determines the propagation delay between receiving a new input (V_GS) and achieving our desired output (now 0V or 3.3V), since we need to charge the next logic piece's gate capacitance. If we have less current, it takes longer to charge the next gate, so our propagation delay increases. If our propagation delay increases too much, we may take longer to achieve our desired output than it takes for the next clock signal to come! Note that there's an easy fix for this. If we increase our clock's period, decreasing it's frequency (known as underclocking), then we can give ourselves more time for the signal to propagate, and thus make sure we reach our desired output before the next clock signal arrives. Crisis averted! But do we actually have control over our clock speed? In a lot of cases, we do at design time, but not while operating. For instance, if we picked a 16MHz clock suitable for 5V, but then only provided 3.3V, then 16MHz may be faster than the system can actually propagate the full signal swings, so we may be stuck getting bad values at 3.3V.

WHAT'S THE WORST THAT COULD HAPPEN?
We've discussed some issues with signals being in mid-way points, and saw that it can make it difficult to decide on a "correct" output choice, but haven't examined what sorts of problems it can cause. For some applications, like in medical equipment or a guided missile, it's easy to understand that a single miscalculation could literally be life-and-death. Okay, fine. But we're dealing with hobby radio stuff, so what's the harm in a wrong bit from time to time? Just power cycle the radio and we're back to business, right? Often times, in practice, that's probably right. However, consider what it means to run a program. The processor is constantly changing many bits at once, and in most consumer and hobby grade devices, the processor assumes that every operation it does is done correctly every time. If a bit that is supposed to be a 1 isn't quite high enough (less than V_IH), or a 0 isn't quite low enough (more than V_IL), then what happens next is largely up to chance.

For instance, if the program counter reads a 1 where it was supposed to be a 0, then you've suddenly ended up at a random location in your code, and will start executing who knows what instructions, which will re-interpret your stack data in any sort of manner. Often times this will lead to invalid instructions being attempted and crash, but it could also end up being more subtle, where the program still runs, but is now operating on the wrong data. A mis-interpreted bit in a register could cause the program to activate some undesired behavior, like turning the transmitter circuit on when it shouldn't be, or cause us to save the wrong configuration data. Since we don't know which bits are more or less likely to fail first due to lower voltage, it's impossible to say exactly what failure mode we'd see.

In a lot of scenarios, turning the system fully off, then re-powering with sufficient voltage will recover. However, for systems with non-volatile memory (e.g. flash), an undervoltage system voltage can corrupt or destroy data, rendering the system inoperable or "bricked". Similar to our logic gates above, non-volatile memory requires certain electrical parameters in order to store values that are "definitely 0" and "definitely 1". If we apply insufficient voltages when writing to these memories, we can end up with bits stored as in-between states, that aren't clearly readable as 0 or 1. When reading back properly stored data, insufficient voltage can corrupt our read process, returning incorrect bits. If this memory happens to be our program data, then incorrect bits could make it impossible for us to successfully run our program or boot. In particular, if this program data was written by the factory, or happens to be one-time-programmable, and we don't have the ability to reprogram the memory from an external programmer, we may now have "bricked" our system for good.

Finally, to see some real potential for damage, let's consider a typical CMOS inverter gate:

When V_in is 0V or 5V, one of the FETs is fully on, and the other is fully off, so current can only flow to or from V_out. However, if our system voltage is too low, we can get into a state where both FETs are consistently partially-on, meaning there is a direct path from the system voltage, through the FETs, to ground. Depending on the nature of the FETs, the current flow could be enough to fry them, or the resistors or wires they're connected to. Even if the FETs themselves survive, with enough gates in these unstable states, our system could end up oscillating wildly from small system voltage fluctuations, and/or draw significantly more current than it would during normal voltage operation, potentially damaging other components, like the power supply, or even indirectly damaging adjacent parts due to excessive heat generation. Note that this particular problem is not specific to logic gates in a processor, but also applies to similarly-configured push-pull transistor setups, like H-bridges.

TURNING OFF AND ON
To power a device on or off, there must be some time during which the system voltage is greater than zero, but not yet in the "safe" area, so why don't digital devices corrupt, fail, or self-destruct constantly? There's no one single answer, because different devices have different solutions to this problem. Some devices have built-in circuits specifically designed to detect the supply voltage, and only enable themselves once the voltages are high enough to be safe. An example of this is the brown out detection system in the Arduino. Many devices have requirements for how long their supply voltages are allowed to take to transition from 0V to the target (e.g. 5V). Just like the propagation delay with periodic clocks, if the supply voltage comes up fast enough, all signals can be "locked in" to good states before any uncertain behavior regions have a chance to corrupt bits, or significant current can pass through the partially-on FETs. A related solution is to not provide the clock signal until the supply voltage has been up for a certain amount of time. This ensures that no logic gates are required to read input signals until those input signals have had time to stabilize.

For powering down, similar rules apply. The device might require voltage to drop from the nominal system voltage to 0V within a certain amount of time, or to stop the clock input prior to removing power. It may also require that potentially unsafe operations, like writing to non-volatile memory, be stopped some amount of time before removing power. In more complicated systems, we may need to remove power first from the "dangerous" parts, like the high voltage from a motor driver for an antenna rotator, or disabling writes to non-volatile memory, before removing power from the respective controller unit. In this way, while there may be a few mis-interpreted bits as the system powers down, they won't be able to cause dangerous or long-lasting behavior.


Re: uBITX V6 Specifications.

 

Hi all,

Thank you for all for your information and comments.

Bill,

I'm not sure why there could be damage to a display if the voltage dropped. On the enclosed paperwork, that came with the Nextion 5¡± display that I purchased, it said that there could be damage if the voltage dropped. They ?There was no explanation given why. They recommended a separate power supply.

Evan,?

Do you think that a Buck converter module would be a good to supply 5v for the Nextion. I'm not quite sure how to set up a power supply using the 7805 voltage regulator. That's why I thought the Buck converter would make a good choice, it's prebuilt. What do you or anyone else think? Thank you in advance,?
.
Thanks again, 73,
Robert, AG6LK
.


Which 5" Nextion display to buy

 

Bought a very nice chassis and ordered a ver 6 board. Looking to buy a 5" Nextion display....what is the best model number? I see a few choices on amazon.
Thank you - Mike


Re: uB v3 on ebay

 

At this price... Go for it, it¡¯s not even the price of spare parts.
There may be only one transistor to change??
Too bad no shipping to France.


Re: uBITX V6 Specifications.

Earl Cox
 

Thanks, I will be doing that.

Earl Cox? KB5UEW?
Reply or E-mail me at:? kb5uew@...


On Tuesday, May 4, 2021, 11:53:52 PM MDT, Ashhar Farhan <farhanbox@...> wrote:


Most of the power is consumed by the digital display. There is a brutal way to add an on/off switch between the LED pin of the tft board and the Raduino board. That should shave off the power requirements down to 100 mA on receive (with headset on).
- f

On Wed, May 5, 2021 at 11:10 AM Earl Cox via <kb5uew=[email protected]> wrote:
No apology needed Robert. Got the info I needed and much more. thanks.


Earl Cox? KB5UEW?
Reply or E-mail me at:? kb5uew@...


On Tuesday, May 4, 2021, 07:59:18 PM MDT, Robert AG6LK <amrmedic@...> wrote:


Hi All,

Thanks for the information everyone.?

That¡¯s about what I figured a 4a power supply would be the safest, with some room for improvements, like a 5¡± display with it's own power supply. Actually I¡¯m just starting to build a v6 with a ?Universal Case for a 5¡± Nextion from Sunil (Nice guy) with Inkits, . It¡¯ts a lot of case and extras for the money. It's just too bad DHL shipping cost about 50% of what you pay for the case.

I have a couple of more questions for the group, if you don¡¯t mind. I¡¯m thinking on using a step down Buck converter module to power the 5 volts needed for the 5¡± Nextion. I here that if you use a larger display you should have its own power supply so you don't do damage to the display, in case the voltage drops too low. Do you think that the Buck converter would be a good choice to power it??How much extra current do you the 5¡± display would use compared to the stock 2.8¡± display. Should I get a larger power supply than a 4a? I¡¯m also thinking of placing a ATU 100 in the case also. I can't imagine though that it would use more than 600 - 700ma. So should I go with more like a 5a power supply.

Last question, what do you think the best switching, hopefully, ¡°low noise¡± power supply is out there?

I apologize Earl, I didn't mean to but-in and take up your whole page. I hope you don't mind. Again Earl, I apologize.

73,
Robert Guentz




Re: technical question about filter capacitors

jim
 

I would not have posted anything, were I not satisfied with the product...likely not much good for small values of caps (but what is ?)...works just fine for 10 nF and stuff in that area


Jim

On Tuesday, May 4, 2021, 10:30:02 AM PDT, jerry@... <jerry@...> wrote:


On 2021-05-04 10:05, jim via groups.io wrote:
> bought one of these....

Are you happy with it?? A couple of Amazon reviews said it wasn't much
good for caps.

? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? - Jerry KF6VB

>
> jim
>
>? On Monday, May 3, 2021, 1:45:21 PM PDT, Arv Evans
> <arvid.evans@...> wrote:
>
> Gerard
>
> I'm probably wrong but maybe there are no markings on 805 and smaller
>
> SMD capacitors because only a very few of us would be able to read the
>
>
> writing.? Possibly something new and radical like a series of colored
> dots
> would work, but still problematic for us ancient people.
>
> I have a small isolated-tip tweezer with flexible test probe type
> leads and
>
> banana plug connection to a capacitor meter.? Once I got used to the
>
> equipment this lets me spread a handful of SMD components on a plastic
>
>
> serving tray and quickly measure anything that looks like a capacitor.
>
>
> Also works for resistors, and other measurable components.
>
> These are then dropped in a fold of paper in order of value.
>
> With a little practice this becomes second-nature and supports quick
>
> sorting and easy circuit board assembly.? Measure the value with the
>
> tweezer tips open, then measure again with the component held in the
>
> tweezer.? Difference is actual component value with stray capacitance
>
> factored out.
>
>
>
>
>
> Arv
> _._
>
> On Mon, May 3, 2021 at 1:47 PM Gerard <kabupos@...> wrote:
>
>> One thing that is always annoying is that the value of a SMD
>> capacitor is almost never indicated.
>> I don¡¯t understand why manufacturers don¡¯t put a mark on the
>> capacitors , when they do it on resistors. That¡¯s probably a cost.
>> I put a video on it to find the value without desolding, but you
>> have to be equipped
>> And not sure his method work on very low capacitors.
>>
>> (18) How to test or measure SMD capacitors on the PCB / on circuit
>> measurement free electronics training - YouTube [1]
>>
>> cdt
>
>
>
> Links:
> ------
> [1]
> [2] /g/BITX20/message/88112
> [3] /mt/82546658/243852
> [4] /g/BITX20/post
> [5] /g/BITX20/editsub/243852
> [6] /g/BITX20/leave/10189903/243852/952924773/xyzzy






uB v3 on ebay

Vince Vielhaber
 

Someone's selling a uBitX V3 in a case on ebay. At this time the bidding is only at 12.50. Not mine, just sharing the info.



Vince.
--
K8ZW


Re: uBITX V6 Specifications.

 

I won't say for sure, but possibly some devices may draw excessive current if the voltage is too low.? I happen to know that some motor-driven equipment will be damaged by under-voltage.? The motor doesn't come up to speed, there is on back E.M.F., and the current draw is excessive.? Think, brown-out!

Gerry

Sent by the Thunderbird

On 2021-05-05 7:24 a.m., Bill Cromwell wrote:
Hi Robert...

.....Earl,

The quietest power source for radios are plain batteries. I have some vacuum tube gear I run on batteries and that is one of two major reasons why. Of course my solid state gear operates on batteries 100 percent as well. That includes my uBitX at a bit that two amps on CW transmit.

I wonder how you can damage a Nextion display or any other electrical device with a power supply or battery that has a 'too low' voltage. When we turn them off the voltage drops to zero and that doesn't seem to do any harm. Too high = bad. Too low = inoperative.

73,

Bill? KU8H

bark less - wag more

On 5/4/21 9:59 PM, Robert AG6LK wrote:
Hi All,

Thanks for the information everyone.

That¡¯s about what I figured a 4a power supply would be the safest, with some room for improvements, like a 5¡± display with it's own power supply. Actually I¡¯m just starting to build a v6 with a ?Universal Case for a 5¡± Nextion from Sunil (Nice guy) with Inkits, amateurradiokits.in. It¡¯ts a lot of case and extras for the money. It's just too bad DHL shipping cost about 50% of what you pay for the case.

I have a couple of more questions for the group, if you don¡¯t mind. I¡¯m thinking on using a step down Buck converter module to power the 5 volts needed for the 5¡± Nextion. I here that if you use a larger display you should have its own power supply so you don't do damage to the display, in case the voltage drops too low. Do you think that the Buck converter would be a good choice to power it??How much extra current do you the 5¡± display would use compared to the stock 2.8¡± display. Should I get a larger power supply than a 4a? I¡¯m also thinking of placing a ATU 100 in the case also. I can't imagine though that it would use more than 600 - 700ma. So should I go with more like a 5a power supply.

Last question, what do you think the best switching, hopefully, ¡°low noise¡± power supply is out there?

I apologize Earl, I didn't mean to but-in and take up your whole page. I hope you don't mind. Again Earl, I apologize.

73,
Robert Guentz






Re: uBITX V6 Specifications.

 

Hi Robert...

.....Earl,

The quietest power source for radios are plain batteries. I have some vacuum tube gear I run on batteries and that is one of two major reasons why. Of course my solid state gear operates on batteries 100 percent as well. That includes my uBitX at a bit that two amps on CW transmit.

I wonder how you can damage a Nextion display or any other electrical device with a power supply or battery that has a 'too low' voltage. When we turn them off the voltage drops to zero and that doesn't seem to do any harm. Too high = bad. Too low = inoperative.

73,

Bill? KU8H

bark less - wag more

On 5/4/21 9:59 PM, Robert AG6LK wrote:
Hi All,

Thanks for the information everyone.

That¡¯s about what I figured a 4a power supply would be the safest, with some room for improvements, like a 5¡± display with it's own power supply. Actually I¡¯m just starting to build a v6 with a ?Universal Case for a 5¡± Nextion from Sunil (Nice guy) with Inkits, amateurradiokits.in. It¡¯ts a lot of case and extras for the money. It's just too bad DHL shipping cost about 50% of what you pay for the case.

I have a couple of more questions for the group, if you don¡¯t mind. I¡¯m thinking on using a step down Buck converter module to power the 5 volts needed for the 5¡± Nextion. I here that if you use a larger display you should have its own power supply so you don't do damage to the display, in case the voltage drops too low. Do you think that the Buck converter would be a good choice to power it??How much extra current do you the 5¡± display would use compared to the stock 2.8¡± display. Should I get a larger power supply than a 4a? I¡¯m also thinking of placing a ATU 100 in the case also. I can't imagine though that it would use more than 600 - 700ma. So should I go with more like a 5a power supply.

Last question, what do you think the best switching, hopefully, ¡°low noise¡± power supply is out there?

I apologize Earl, I didn't mean to but-in and take up your whole page. I hope you don't mind. Again Earl, I apologize.

73,
Robert Guentz




Re: uBITX V6 Specifications.

 

On Tue, May 4, 2021, at 08:59 PM, Robert AG6LK wrote:
I have a couple of more questions for the group, if you don¡¯t mind. I¡¯m thinking on using a step down Buck converter module to power the 5 volts needed for the 5¡± Nextion. I here that if you use a larger display you should have its own power supply so you don't do damage to the display, in case the voltage drops too low. Do you think that the Buck converter would be a good choice to power it??How much extra current do you the 5¡± display would use compared to the stock 2.8¡± display. Should I get a larger power supply than a 4a? I¡¯m also thinking of placing a ATU 100 in the case also. I can't imagine though that it would use more than 600 - 700ma. So should I go with more like a 5a power supply.
Robert,

I can answer the above question:? The stock v6 display draws about 80ma.? the 5" Nextion display draws about 410ma.? You definitely need a separate power source for the 5" Nextion.? The maximum current that I have seen on my 4 ?BITX (v4, v5, and v6) is 2.5 amps on transmit with a 3.5" Nextion display.? A 3amp supply should be enough for the 5" display v6, but I would add the safety margin of a 4amp power source.

As to the regulator, I have not found one that does not add significant noise to the receiver.? I would suggest a separate 7805 regulator with a heat sink and capacitors (it can be mounted to a metal case.? The tab is at ground potential).

Above are what I have seen or found on the net.? Others may have different observations or experiences.

73
Evan
AC9TU


Re: uBITX V6 Specifications.

 

Most of the power is consumed by the digital display. There is a brutal way to add an on/off switch between the LED pin of the tft board and the Raduino board. That should shave off the power requirements down to 100 mA on receive (with headset on).
- f

On Wed, May 5, 2021 at 11:10 AM Earl Cox via <kb5uew=[email protected]> wrote:
No apology needed Robert. Got the info I needed and much more. thanks.


Earl Cox? KB5UEW?
Reply or E-mail me at:? kb5uew@...


On Tuesday, May 4, 2021, 07:59:18 PM MDT, Robert AG6LK <amrmedic@...> wrote:


Hi All,

Thanks for the information everyone.?

That¡¯s about what I figured a 4a power supply would be the safest, with some room for improvements, like a 5¡± display with it's own power supply. Actually I¡¯m just starting to build a v6 with a ?Universal Case for a 5¡± Nextion from Sunil (Nice guy) with Inkits, . It¡¯ts a lot of case and extras for the money. It's just too bad DHL shipping cost about 50% of what you pay for the case.

I have a couple of more questions for the group, if you don¡¯t mind. I¡¯m thinking on using a step down Buck converter module to power the 5 volts needed for the 5¡± Nextion. I here that if you use a larger display you should have its own power supply so you don't do damage to the display, in case the voltage drops too low. Do you think that the Buck converter would be a good choice to power it??How much extra current do you the 5¡± display would use compared to the stock 2.8¡± display. Should I get a larger power supply than a 4a? I¡¯m also thinking of placing a ATU 100 in the case also. I can't imagine though that it would use more than 600 - 700ma. So should I go with more like a 5a power supply.

Last question, what do you think the best switching, hopefully, ¡°low noise¡± power supply is out there?

I apologize Earl, I didn't mean to but-in and take up your whole page. I hope you don't mind. Again Earl, I apologize.

73,
Robert Guentz




Re: uBITX V6 Specifications.

Earl Cox
 

No apology needed Robert. Got the info I needed and much more. thanks.


Earl Cox? KB5UEW?
Reply or E-mail me at:? kb5uew@...


On Tuesday, May 4, 2021, 07:59:18 PM MDT, Robert AG6LK <amrmedic@...> wrote:


Hi All,

Thanks for the information everyone.?

That¡¯s about what I figured a 4a power supply would be the safest, with some room for improvements, like a 5¡± display with it's own power supply. Actually I¡¯m just starting to build a v6 with a ?Universal Case for a 5¡± Nextion from Sunil (Nice guy) with Inkits, amateurradiokits.in. It¡¯ts a lot of case and extras for the money. It's just too bad DHL shipping cost about 50% of what you pay for the case.

I have a couple of more questions for the group, if you don¡¯t mind. I¡¯m thinking on using a step down Buck converter module to power the 5 volts needed for the 5¡± Nextion. I here that if you use a larger display you should have its own power supply so you don't do damage to the display, in case the voltage drops too low. Do you think that the Buck converter would be a good choice to power it??How much extra current do you the 5¡± display would use compared to the stock 2.8¡± display. Should I get a larger power supply than a 4a? I¡¯m also thinking of placing a ATU 100 in the case also. I can't imagine though that it would use more than 600 - 700ma. So should I go with more like a 5a power supply.

Last question, what do you think the best switching, hopefully, ¡°low noise¡± power supply is out there?

I apologize Earl, I didn't mean to but-in and take up your whole page. I hope you don't mind. Again Earl, I apologize.

73,
Robert Guentz




Re: uBITX V6 Specifications.

Earl Cox
 

My uBITX older version works well on a 3A battery source, regulated 12V. If you want some extra room, you might want a 3.5 or 4A capability.?

Earl Cox? KB5UEW?
Reply or E-mail me at:? kb5uew@...


On Tuesday, May 4, 2021, 02:35:31 PM MDT, Robert AG6LK <amrmedic@...> wrote:


Hi All,

What's the transmit current? What do you think about 2.5ah? What do you think the minimum power supply should be 3a, 4a?

73,
.
Robert, AG6LK


Re: uBITX V6 Specifications.

Earl Cox
 

Found some PL906090 6AH 3.7V li batteries, each weighing 3.5oz. #.5*3=10.5oz = 12V@6Ah. 10.5oz*4 = 42oz = 24AH if I did that right. 42oz/16=2.625 lbs. + case. On testing these, they seem to be close to the rated capacity.



Earl Cox? KB5UEW?
Reply or E-mail me at:? kb5uew@...


On Tuesday, May 4, 2021, 09:27:57 AM MDT, Max via groups.io <kg4pid@...> wrote:


My 12v 20Ah LiFePo4 battery weighs about 7 lbs. What have you found that would weigh half of that?

Max KG4PID


On Tuesday, May 4, 2021, 09:52:05 AM CDT, Earl Cox via groups.io <kb5uew@...> wrote:


SSB, CW will be most of the time. I have not dived into digital yet. I am looking at 12V, 24AH. I can achieve that in a case of about 5 1/4" X 4" X 3 1/4" weighing a little over 3 lbs.

Earl Cox? KB5UEW?
Reply or E-mail me at:? kb5uew@...


On Tuesday, May 4, 2021, 08:39:25 AM MDT, Evan Hand <elhandjr@...> wrote:


Earl,

I will verify when I get to my rig.? Until then, what mode will you be using?? SSB voice, vs CW, vs digital modes makes a difference.? If digital then I would estimate that you need 720mah and CW at slightly less than that.? SSB would have even lower requirements, most likely 50% of digital mode.? That means for 48 hours of continuous operation you would need a 34.5ah battery for digital and 18ah for SSB.? That would be a large battery.? Maybe look into a solar panel as a part of the power scheme.

Please check my math before you commit to a battery.
73
Evan
AC9TU


Re: uBITX V6 Specifications.

 

Hi All,

Thanks for the information everyone.?

That¡¯s about what I figured a 4a power supply would be the safest, with some room for improvements, like a 5¡± display with it's own power supply. Actually I¡¯m just starting to build a v6 with a ?Universal Case for a 5¡± Nextion from Sunil (Nice guy) with Inkits, amateurradiokits.in. It¡¯ts a lot of case and extras for the money. It's just too bad DHL shipping cost about 50% of what you pay for the case.

I have a couple of more questions for the group, if you don¡¯t mind. I¡¯m thinking on using a step down Buck converter module to power the 5 volts needed for the 5¡± Nextion. I here that if you use a larger display you should have its own power supply so you don't do damage to the display, in case the voltage drops too low. Do you think that the Buck converter would be a good choice to power it??How much extra current do you the 5¡± display would use compared to the stock 2.8¡± display. Should I get a larger power supply than a 4a? I¡¯m also thinking of placing a ATU 100 in the case also. I can't imagine though that it would use more than 600 - 700ma. So should I go with more like a 5a power supply.

Last question, what do you think the best switching, hopefully, ¡°low noise¡± power supply is out there?

I apologize Earl, I didn't mean to but-in and take up your whole page. I hope you don't mind. Again Earl, I apologize.

73,
Robert Guentz