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Hi all, my v6.2 unit has had a weird thing ever since I received it. During transmit, the display screen acts like it is being pressed. Some times I see "fast tune" light up. Also, if I have the right side VFO chosen it will change itself to the left VFO. Otherwise the unit seems to work fine, I've used it for FT8 a lot. I did however burn out diode D6 recently and replaced it successfully and wonder if the two things are related. When I replaced the diode I completely disassembled the unit and lovingly reassembled it, and the problem remains on transmit.
Thanks in advance for any ideas!
Larry
K6IET

On Fri, Feb 26, 2021 at 10:22 AM, Bob Lunsford wrote:

Also, a spot of super-glue would make the adapter a bit more permanent without going into the V6 board. I think I will do it this way.

hot melt glue is significantly easier to remove
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Evan?
Is that point marked on your photo with a 6, the connection to the antenna.?
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73
Dave

W6LKB,

Congratulations on the contacts!? My saying is "if it ain't broke, don't fix it."? That does not include adding features.? Do think through what you want before deciding on an "upgrade" path.?

From what I have read, IF you are serious about CW, then Reed N's software is a good choice.? IF you want to add CW decoding, band scope, and a lot of other graphic features, starting down the KD8CEC path makes sense.

One of the key features of the ?BITX radios is that they are hackable.? ? With that in mind though, I would be hesitant if it was my only radio for operation.? The choice for me would be to go forward in most cases.? This is because building and learning are the most important aspects of the hobby to me.

You should also be aware that if you use the original Nano as a backup, and add a new Nano for the upgrades, then all of the settings for calibration will be in the original Nano, and not the new Nano.? This means you will need to calibrate the rig.? I do not know of a way to save the settings or to even read what the current values are.? The stock software resets the starting point to a generic default, NOT the final settings as received from the factory.? Both the software from KD8CEC and Reed N do have a way to read the values, so going the route of Reed N software in the original Nano to read what the calibration points are would be my recommendation.

I now own 4 ?BITX radios from HFSignals; 2 v4, a v5, and now a v6.? The first two were bought as my first two rigs after getting back into the hobby after 20+ years away from it.? I bought the first, then soon after bought the second when I realized that there were updates needed and the options that I wanted to add.? I could update one while experimenting with the other.

So here are the steps that most of us on this board agree is the best strategy to follow:
1 - Get the rig working in the stock, as delivered from the factory before making ANY major changes.
2 - Use the rig to see what things you would like to enhance or change
3 - Do one change at a time, so you know what causes any failures
4 - Document settings and changes

I just received my v6 within the last week and have been busy fixing rigs for others so that I have not yet had time to assemble the new v6.? When I do, these are what I have planned:
1 - As above get it working with minimum changes, only those needed to make it operational.
2 - Use it for a while to see what others have been saying are potential issues
3 - My first upgrade will be to install Reed's software into the original Nano
4 - Document the settings (wish I could do that with what is received from the factory)
5 - Repeat starting with 2 above.

Since I now have 3 ?BITX with the KD8CEC software with Nextion screens, I do not plan on making that upgrade to the v6.? I will be looking at other upgrade paths, like the Teensy or maybe a Raspberry Pi Pico upgrade to explore more of the software options.

The above are my thoughts and opinions.? Others may have different views, and any feedback is always welcome.

73
Evan
AC9TU

.

Kelly you can use a flange mounted SO239 you just need to use a step drill bit to open the BNC hole and bolt it on the inside of the panel. There are two screw flange mount SO239s available and I use these often and have a few in my parts bins.

Skip Davis, NC9O

My v6 worked perfectly as delivered and I was immediately able to set up CAT control and use it for digital contacts on 20 and 40 meters. It is working so well I am afraid to try Reeds software or change to a Nextion display for fear of breaking something!?

Scott,

There is the original antenna header connection still on the board.? You could remove the BNC and mount the plate type of SO239 above where the BNC is now.? You could also try leaving the BNC connected, and just add the SO239 above it.? I would recommend that you pull the SO239 jumper when you do this, as there might be a significant amount of RF inside the case without the load connected to the SO239.? I have not tried this, so would be curious about your results if you do go that route.



73
Evan
AC9TU

I had a an early failure with a bnc and wanted to use the same connector as on my other radios. so put in a plate style so239. There is a short jumper that plugs into the board so in the rare case, removal is easy. The plate only really needs two of the four screws.?
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73
Dave

Damn!?

Just to correct, my module is Neo-M8N and not M8M as I posted before!

Sorry!

I ordered my GPS module from using eBay or AliExpress, can't remember which seller, but they are pretty cheap! The problem is to wait 2 months or so for it to arrive!

(I actually didn't had to wait, as I had it for another project I was doing a while ago)

Mine looks like this one:?


73,

Rafael

Use a BNC male to SO239 female adapter. Always keep a bunch handy.

Raj

Scott,
I'm thinking the same thing.? Two things to recommend,? and others chime in please.

The first thing would be to use a so239 panel mount with a nut much like the bnc connector in case you need to remove the back panel for servicing the finals.
Second that means drilling out the panel hole to so239 size ...
Lastly I would use as much of the existing board to bnc connection as I could (center pin connection). I am a little unsure but I believe its center pin connection of the bnc to the pcb can be snipped and then soldered to the so239.

Thanks & 73,

Kelly KD5AJ?

I have the v6 full kit with case.? ?I'd like to simply my cabling going forward and replace the BNC with a SO-239 connector.? ?I understand how this works electrically/RF-wise but I'm not sure what the best plan is to securely connect to the board/case and still be able to remove the board from the case.??

I probably just need to see a pic of how someone did it right.

Thanks!

Clay,

Probably thousands or tens of thousands were sold. The problematic ones are ones you read about here and
rest would have worked out of the box.

Raj, vu2zap

Thanks for the report!

Given all of the posts regaling us with problems, failures, no receive, no transmit, display issues, etc., etc., I was wondering if anybody had one that worked "out of the box."

Glad to read about your success!

Clay NF7X

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Marko

I used same method as Rafael, tune in a strong am signal for equal clarity and pitch on LSB? and USB.?

You need a linear power supply, or one designed with extra filtering for radio use. Some ancient wall warts that are rather heavy are likely linear and might at least have enough current for receive.? Check also the usual retail websites that do business in your part of the globe.

Curt

Opps...? It goes without say.? I use CAT interface through omnirig and it works like any commercial CAT controlled tranciever.

Actually you define it as FT817.
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Zvika?
4Z1ZV