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I used this one:

also found this:

“Build” in the context of the Basic Certificate is limited to the assembly of commercially available transmitter kits of professional design.

I think the ubitx falls under that as I read it, but if I am wrong, please show me the way!

I tried to re adjust the two bias pots by following the ubitx guide. It says to first turn them clockwise and measure the current, when doing this my total current consumption in 1.2A (some searching says it should be 300-500mA depending on mods), which is quite high. So I put my meter on the brown power wire only (PA power) and the lowest setting I can get is ~900mA with the bias pots clockwise. Idle current is 0.

I am running the ubitx on 12v.

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I was a volunteer examiner here in Canada for our rural locale and Basic Plus gives a successful candidate access to all bands including? HF bands below 30MHz with power limitations and using commercially built gear. Not until the candidate attains advanced amateur qualification are they allowed to own and sponsor repeaters or other remote access equipment, use homebrew gear, or run full authorized maximum power.

It is why I was putting forth the idea to a local club that runs advanced courses to see about including a lower priced QRP multi-mode all band transceiver kit as part of the practical lab component to the course. In such a case they would hopefully attain advanced privileges and attaining the OK to operate on home built gear as it were.

Should they not pass on the first try they would have gear that was checked by advanced amateurs conducting the course their first time through and certified it met specs and thus possibly considered in the same class as the required "commercial gear" rating until they could re-take the advanced test with success.

Don't mean to be a nit-picker; just didn't want to see any noobies get into troubles with the powers that be.

Cheers & 73

Andy

Dayne,

Mark could well be correct.? If RV2 and RV3 got twiddled with, that fully explains this.
The fact that the problem does not move when you swap the IRF510's suggests the
IRF510's might still be ok.? If you can adjust each IRF510 for 100ma of quiescent current,
then you know that they are ok.? Be careful when doing this, RV2 and RV3 (also RV1) are?
backwards from normal pots, fully clockwise is minimum.? Adjusting RV2 and RV3 will
have no effect until somewhere around 4 volts at the IRF510 gates when suddenly
they are very sensitive.? Adjusting them a bit too far and the IRF510's will draw too much?
drain current and get hot very quickly.

Measure the voltage at each IRF510 drain, should be around 12v with no audio (no need to press PTT).
If not, then the choke (L8 or L9) or a copper board trace in the path between the drain and the
12v power supply has failed on the cool IRF510.

With PTT down, should see around 4 volts DC at the gate of each IRF510.
If not, then something in the path between the LM78L05 at U2 and that gate has failed,
perhaps RV2,R97 or RV3,R98.? Also possible that CV2 or CV3 has shorted on the cool one.


>? I got 1.3A without speaking into the MIC just on key down. Idle is around 370mA

That 1.3A seems high.? I assume most of the extra 1A is going into the hot IRF510 drain.
I'd find it less confusing to measure just the current into L8 and L9, should be 100ma each
with no audio when RV2 and RV3 are adjusted properly
To do this, you will have to unsolder L8 and L9 to separate them from the 12v supply.

At any rate, I think your rig is very close to fully functional.
Spare IRF510's are cheap, and worth having on hand.
Buy from a reputable dealer such as Mouser or Digikey (or a local ham),
some of the ebay IRF510's are random power NFET's with a fake IRF510 label.
Gate capacitance must be extremely low to work well at these frequencies.


> Unless the kit is built but certified by an advanced amateur as complying with ISED Eng specifications for operation????

With 5 or 10 watts out, these fine lines are not something I'd worry too much about.
Regardless of regs, not a bad idea to have an experienced ham have a look at it.
Should be able to find somebody willing to take a look by checking in with a local club.
Quite possible somebody local could loan you a working rig to get started with,
or have you as a guest operator at their station.
And if they are overly anal about this "certified" thing,
perhaps they can help you toward an advanced license.

Jerry, KE7ER

Please do me 2 of these as well, very nice, thanks!
--
PE3ES - F4VTQ - Erwin
73

Bonjour

J'ai attendu quasiment 1mois. Il faut aussi compter une semaine entre le moment où vous payé et le moment où la commande part. Patience...?

Bill,

Looking Good!

Now a question and a request.
The question is which Nextion 2.8" display did you use?? The enhanced or basic?
The request is if you could point me to the Nextion HMI or tft file you used for this build?? I have been searching for a 2.8' enhanced source for a build I have in process.

Thank-you and again, good job!
73
Evan
AC9TU

Hi Nick,
Very interesting.
Can you put my name on one, please ?

Jean-F5PCX.

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Only question that comes to mind is does the UBITx kits fit into "commercially built & certified"? category or "homebrewed" ?? because Basic-Plus requirement also requires gear be commercially built and certified. Unless the kit is built but certified by an advanced amateur as complying with ISED Eng specifications for operation????

HI Niels
If you don't want to receive emails you will need to unsubscribe using the link on the bottom of the emails you get from the list. It is right down the bottom of the email.

73 Murray ZL2IQ

Dear group, please cancelled your email to willum@....

Niels Willumsen, oz4wil

Mark - I think he does. says

Attaining honours scores (i.e.?80% or above) on the Basic examination, or attaining qualifications in addition to the Basic Amateur Certificate will grant the amateur certificate holder additional operating privileges as specified in , including full access to the amateur frequency bands below 30?MHz (i.e. high frequency?(HF)).

Dayne - FT8 (among many digital modes) runs the radio pretty hard, since it transmits for long periods of time with lots of modulation. Definitely a good stress test, but unfortunate that it may have overstressed one of the amps. I'm not sure what input voltage you're running at, but you could try reducing your input voltage, which will reduce the final power, and subsequently put less stress on the finals. I haven't measured my v6's current, but both of my finals get warm fairly quickly when I continuously transmit into a dummy load, so it definitely sounds like you may have an issue.


Reed

Hi Dayne,

I would redo the bias setting in the finals. There should be instructions for that on ubitx.net or on the list here.?

Congrats on your new license! ?I ?wondering however if your current level allows you to operate a kit radio like the ubitx? ?

73,


Mark

Hi Thomas,

I use vscode too, but currently use the "Arduino for visual studio code" plugin, rather than the PlatformIO plugin. However, new tooling on branches that have no relation to Mark's interrupt-based encoder changes seems rather off topic for this thread. Perhaps you could start a new thread to discuss your PlatformIO port? I'm interested in making development easy, but I don't want to hijack this thread with that discussion. I would be happy to discuss further in another thread.


Reed

Hi Mark,

Can you create a new branch for your changes (as mentioned in /g/BITX20/message/74898) and then make a pull request to my master branch? I could just copy your code into it, but then you won't be in the repo commits chain, and I want you to get credit for contributing :)


Reed