THOSE EXTRA CONNECTORS AND WIRES ARE NOT NEEDED FOR V6 KIT.
YOU ONLY NEED THE CONNECTOR AND ENCODER TO PLUG INTO THE FRONT
ASSY.
THE SPEAKER MUST PLUG INTO THE CORNER CONNECTOR ON THE BOARD
CORNER.
73 BILL W4NFR
On 12/27/2019 6:19 PM, Leon Bishop
wrote:
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I received my kit today.? Fast delivery.? It came with a bunck of
cables that have plugs on 1 end and not the other as follows:
2 x 2 pin connectors
1 x 3 pin connectors
1 x 8 pin connectors
I have no idea where they go, anyone have this kit working?? If so
where did you connect them?
HELP
Leon?
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Re: New uBITX Ver. 6 Assembled Today
Joel:
That's feature!
Jack, W8TEE
On Friday, December 27, 2019, 4:01:46 PM EST, Joel Caulkins/N6ALT <caulktel@...> wrote:
Hi Bert,
I have discovered on V6 that when you switch between LSB and USB nothing happens until you click the encoder knob one way or the other.
Joel
N6ALT
-- Jack, W8TEE
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Re: Several Quality Control issues with ubitx v6
Did you receive the V6 kit via DHL?
Prior to assembling? my DHL kit I made sure that all metal was square (back panel must of suffered the customary shipment "abuse" but was easily reformed)? and did not receive the infamous 300 pound angry packing "individual" touch.
The BNC nut was missing easily replace, volume control length should be a easy fix if you are inventive and have the infamous "junk box"
Best Regards.
Steve AB2ET/4?
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They are spare, I believe they are the 'other half' of the cables that are pre-soldered on the board, provided for your use if you modify the board.
You should have a cable to match every connector on the board.
Several connectors on the board are unused. Ken, N2VIP
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On Dec 27, 2019, at 19:19, Leon Bishop <n5pu@...> wrote:
?I received my kit today.? Fast delivery.? It came with a bunck of cables that have plugs on 1 end and not the other as follows:
2 x 2 pin connectors
1 x 3 pin connectors
1 x 8 pin connectors
I have no idea where they go, anyone have this kit working?? If so where did you connect them?
HELP
Leon?
|
I received my kit today.? Fast delivery.? It came with a bunck of cables that have plugs on 1 end and not the other as follows:
2 x 2 pin connectors
1 x 3 pin connectors
1 x 8 pin connectors
I have no idea where they go, anyone have this kit working?? If so where did you connect them?
HELP
Leon?
|
Re: Version 6 Received, and working. Comments, questions, and a couple of bugs
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On Dec 27, 2019, at 6:16 PM, Neil Goldstein < neilgoldstein@...> wrote: Bert,?
For the Freq adjustment, I tuned the radio to the loudest WWV broadcast (which I think in my case was 10 MHz) This could also work with any strong-ish broadcast station, but the tones on WWV are easier to work with.? I used two pairs of earbuds.? With one from the uBitx in one ear and one from my Icom-7300 in the other ear, I adjusted the setting until the pitch matched without a beat-wavering tone or as low as possible.?
For the BFO adjustment, I just tuned to a strong SSB signal on the Ham bands and adjusted it till it sounded "right" to me.? Believe me, once you move around?with the setting you'll know when it sounds good.
I hope that helps.
Incidentally, my 1/8" jacks protruded enough for the screw on nuts, and my volume control fit fine.? My board lined up with the holes enough for it to work, and I didn't really need the BNC nut.
-- Neil Goldstein ?W2NDG ?WQXD361
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Re: Version 6 Received, and working. Comments, questions, and a couple of bugs
Bert,?
For the Freq adjustment, I tuned the radio to the loudest WWV broadcast (which I think in my case was 10 MHz) This could also work with any strong-ish broadcast station, but the tones on WWV are easier to work with.? I used two pairs of earbuds.? With one from the uBitx in one ear and one from my Icom-7300 in the other ear, I adjusted the setting until the pitch matched without a beat-wavering tone or as low as possible.?
For the BFO adjustment, I just tuned to a strong SSB signal on the Ham bands and adjusted it till it sounded "right" to me.? Believe me, once you move around?with the setting you'll know when it sounds good.
I hope that helps.
Incidentally, my 1/8" jacks protruded enough for the screw on nuts, and my volume control fit fine.? My board lined up with the holes enough for it to work, and I didn't really need the BNC nut.
-- Neil Goldstein ?W2NDG ?WQXD361
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Re: Version 6 Received, and working. Comments, questions, and a couple of bugs
Neil -- Can you tell me more about number 1 in your list?? I got into the setup menu messed things up.? Got it working again by "ear" but I think it's not right.? I can't find any detailed instructions, or any instructions at all!
Bert N8NN
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You and I were concerned if the unit would run after I dropped the ubitx to the ?floor. I think that we should be happier that the unit runs as opposed to all these faulty rigs described in the emails that I keep on sending you. An additional problem is that there is no common fault. It is all over the board and circuit. It served its purpose but the final end result is not what we thought it would be"
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On Dec 27, 2019, at 4:35 PM, dgclifford@... wrote: Hello men I have just returned to playing with my ubitx ?after a break for my sanity .I managed to get the display back on ?but it would appear that the firmware has not loaded properly as I can not get into the set up mode ( ash farhans original v5). I get a hiss from the speaker not very loud , signal seems to change when tuner is moved ?. should I try to reload the software or do I have to remove the existing download In some way getting close to big hammer cure ?.
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Hello men I have just returned to playing with my ubitx ?after a break for my sanity .I managed to get the display back on ?but it would appear that the firmware has not loaded properly as I can not get into the set up mode ( ash farhans original v5). I get a hiss from the speaker not very loud , signal seems to change when tuner is moved ?. should I try to reload the software or do I have to remove the existing download In some way getting close to big hammer cure ?.
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Re: New uBITX Ver. 6 Assembled Today
Hi Bert,
I have discovered on V6 that when you switch between LSB and USB nothing happens until you click the encoder knob one way or the other.
Joel
N6ALT
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Re: NIB-uBITx Version 3, Un-Built
This rig is still available.
Any interest??
Thanks, Kevin NZ1I
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New uBITX Ver. 6 Assembled Today
I assembled my V6 full kit today.? No nut for the BNC connector, no sticky on the feet and the feet are too large to work with screw positions, volume knob can be attached but just barely.? Those are no big deals.? Maybe you an help me with some electrical issues listed below.
My problems are electrical:
(1) When mic is plugged in for a minute or so, the radio will cycle to TX at the same rate as the CW speed.? Unplugging the mic stops the TX cycling, but it will start up again at unexpected times.? Can't make this happen when moving the mic/cord, so it is not a faulty cable or switch.
(2) My radio is on USB when it says LSB on 40 meters.? The radio is on USB when it says LSB on 20 meters.? Other bands not checked.? Confirmed this issue with on-air contacts.
(3) In CW mode USB and LSB are the same with no sideband suppression.? That's OK, but where do you tune to zero beat a station?
Bert N8NN
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My V6 arrived yesterday afternoon. I assembled it that evening, hooked up an antenna and power supply, and took it for a receive-only spin.
I ran the audio-out into my laptop and monitored FT8 with wsjt-x. Everything worked beautifully. Then I got the brilliant idea to try CAT control as well. I scanned some posts here, and connected a USB cable from the extender to my laptop. After some fiddling with the radio settings in wsjt-x, I was able to control the rig. Then I disconnected the USB cable, and that's when things went south.
The tft screen went blank, and would not come back up when the rig was turned off or on. I reconnected the USB cable and the raduino and tft power up again. Receive turns on and off with the power knob. Logic says something is disrupting the 5 volts from the main board to the raduino. It was getting late at this point so I decided to table it for the night and dig in this evening after work.
Am I an idiot, and did I break my new radio?
Mike
KD7ZPC
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Re: uBITX V6 heat sink temperature
60C degrees don't seem to me really too hot but actually I have no much experience with finals. The CPU temperature of my laptop is about 75C degrees.
Il 27/dic/2019 20:20, "Joel Caulkins/N6ALT" < caulktel@...> ha scritto: It has the heat sink screwed on and is tight, the fact that the heat sink is so hot means it's working, it's transferring the heat. Maybe I'll change the regulator to a new one to and see if it runs any cooler.
Joel
N6ALT
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Re: Several Quality Control issues with ubitx v6
I agree.
EXCEPT I screwed the feet on, the screws were short, so I pushed.. and put the head of the screw all the way thru the foot.
Besides a larger nut for the BNC, I will get 4 stick on feet.
And I thought it was just me.
Kent KQ4KK
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-------- Original message -------- From: "ubitx via Groups.Io" <ubitx@...> Date: 12/27/19 14:06 (GMT-05:00) Subject: [BITX20] Several Quality Control issues with ubitx v6
To start off, this is not me complaining, it's me trying to help out and fix problems with the board for other people. There are several problems with my ubitx v6 that I got yesterday. I don't think any of them are user error, but maybe they are, feel free to correct me if so. I'm assuming that https://www.hfsignals.com/index.php/ubitx-v6-assembling-the-full-kit/ is the official instructions because I don't see any instructions elsewhere. First, the packing list doesn't match the instructions. The packing list says: - 20 3x8 mm csk phillips - 6 3x6mm collar screws - 4 3x4mm csk phillips - 4 hex nuts Which is more or less what I got (22 3x8, 6 3x6, 5 3x4, 5 hex) (see ), however the instructions on the site reference two 10mm screws for the usb cable, four 10mm screws for the top panel, and four flat head, 6mm screws for the display, none of which were included in the kit. I believe that the 3x4mm are for the display, and the 3x8mm work fine for the places it says 10mm. Second, the main board doesn't line up with the screw holes on the chassis. At best, three of the four screws go in. I chose to omit M2 because the BNC connector would hold it in place (see for how far off it is, not a lot but enough that the screw doesn't fit) Third, the front plate hinges on the 3.5mm inputs and it's very hard to screw in both the top and bottom.? is how far off the top of the plate is if I screw in the bottom two screws. Fourth, the volume/power control doesn't stick out far enough to properly put the knob on, see . You can see the mark where the screw tightened and how it's just on the edge of the metal, however even when it's that far out, the plastic knob rubs against the front plate and is hard to turn. Fifth, there's no mention of the feet anywhere in the instructions, and even if there was, it wouldn't matter because the screws aren't long enough to go through the feet into the bottom screws of the top and bottom plates. Sixth, in the instructions it says to attach the antenna last, after the display. This makes the antenna connector incredibly hard to attach, it should be attached before the display (and probably even before the front panel goes on, it's much easier that way. Seventh, it says to "tighten the large nut around the BNC connector", but there isn't one. Again, not complaining, just trying to help out. -- Em W8ENV
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Re: Several Quality Control issues with ubitx v6
See comments below: On Dec 27, 2019, at 13:06, ubitx via Groups.Io <ubitx@...> wrote:
To start off, this is not me complaining, it's me trying to help out and fix problems with the board for other people.
OK There are several problems with my ubitx v6 that I got yesterday. I don't think any of them are user error, but maybe they are, feel free to correct me if so.
OK I'm assuming that https://www.hfsignals.com/index.php/ubitx-v6-assembling-the-full-kit/ is the official instructions because I don't see any instructions elsewhere.
That's AFAIK First, the packing list doesn't match the instructions. The packing list says:
- 20 3x8 mm csk phillips
- 6 3x6mm collar screws
- 4 3x4mm csk phillips
- 4 hex nuts
Which is more or less what I got (22 3x8, 6 3x6, 5 3x4, 5 hex) (see ), however the instructions on the site reference two 10mm screws for the usb cable, four 10mm screws for the top panel, and four flat head, 6mm screws for the display, none of which were included in the kit. I believe that the 3x4mm are for the display, and the 3x8mm work fine for the places it says 10mm.
Being a lazy American and ignorant of all things metric, I just used the screws that seemed appropriate -short ones for display, longer ones everywhere else... I had leftovers of everything included. Second, the main board doesn't line up with the screw holes on the chassis. At best, three of the four screws go in. I chose to omit M2 because the BNC connector would hold it in place (see for how far off it is, not a lot but enough that the screw doesn't fit)
I had no problem securing the main board to the four points on the base. Third, the front plate hinges on the 3.5mm inputs and it's very hard to screw in both the top and bottom.? is how far off the top of the plate is if I screw in the bottom two screws.
The 3.5mm jacks protrude sufficiently (as shown in HFSIGNALS website photos), I expected the nuts from the jack to anchor jacks on faceplate, but there was not enough threads to attach the nuts. Fourth, the volume/power control doesn't stick out far enough to properly put the knob on, see . You can see the mark where the screw tightened and how it's just on the edge of the metal, however even when it's that far out, the plastic knob rubs against the front plate and is hard to turn.
Agreed. By knob is exceptionally close to case, seems secure, but I'm Probably babying it. Fifth, there's no mention of the feet anywhere in the instructions, and even if there was, it wouldn't matter because the screws aren't long enough to go through the feet into the bottom screws of the top and bottom plates.
I assume the feet only attach with adhesive - all the available screw holes are too close to edge - I chose to leave them off. Sixth, in the instructions it says to attach the antenna last, after the display. This makes the antenna connector incredibly hard to attach, it should be attached before the display (and probably even before the front panel goes on, it's much easier that way.
Do you mean the speaker connector? I had no issue attaching last, but it would be better to attach it earlier in construction. Seventh, it says to "tighten the large nut around the BNC connector", but there isn't one.
Common issue, I had no BNC nut either. Again, not complaining, just trying to help out.
Me Too.
Ken, N2VIP
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Re: uBITX V6 heat sink temperature
It has the heat sink screwed on and is tight, the fact that the heat sink is so hot means it's working, it's transferring the heat. Maybe I'll change the regulator to a new one to and see if it runs any cooler.
Joel
N6ALT
|
Several Quality Control issues with ubitx v6
To start off, this is not me complaining, it's me trying to help out and fix problems with the board for other people.
There are several problems with my ubitx v6 that I got yesterday. I don't think any of them are user error, but maybe they are, feel free to correct me if so.
I'm assuming that https://www.hfsignals.com/index.php/ubitx-v6-assembling-the-full-kit/ is the official instructions because I don't see any instructions elsewhere.
First, the packing list doesn't match the instructions. The packing list says:
- 20 3x8 mm csk phillips
- 6 3x6mm collar screws
- 4 3x4mm csk phillips
- 4 hex nuts
Which is more or less what I got (22 3x8, 6 3x6, 5 3x4, 5 hex) (see ), however the instructions on the site reference two 10mm screws for the usb cable, four 10mm screws for the top panel, and four flat head, 6mm screws for the display, none of which were included in the kit. I believe that the 3x4mm are for the display, and the 3x8mm work fine for the places it says 10mm.
Second, the main board doesn't line up with the screw holes on the chassis. At best, three of the four screws go in. I chose to omit M2 because the BNC connector would hold it in place (see for how far off it is, not a lot but enough that the screw doesn't fit)
Third, the front plate hinges on the 3.5mm inputs and it's very hard to screw in both the top and bottom.? is how far off the top of the plate is if I screw in the bottom two screws.
Fourth, the volume/power control doesn't stick out far enough to properly put the knob on, see . You can see the mark where the screw tightened and how it's just on the edge of the metal, however even when it's that far out, the plastic knob rubs against the front plate and is hard to turn.
Fifth, there's no mention of the feet anywhere in the instructions, and even if there was, it wouldn't matter because the screws aren't long enough to go through the feet into the bottom screws of the top and bottom plates.
Sixth, in the instructions it says to attach the antenna last, after the display. This makes the antenna connector incredibly hard to attach, it should be attached before the display (and probably even before the front panel goes on, it's much easier that way.
Seventh, it says to "tighten the large nut around the BNC connector", but there isn't one.
Again, not complaining, just trying to help out.
--
Em W8ENV
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How would I updat the V6 and what do I need to do it.? Yes, I am a complete noob and old to boot!
de N5PU
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Neil Goldstein
N8NN Bert
Joel Caulkins/N6ALT
Kevin Gilot NZ1I