Chris,
here is the Antuino group forum on :
/g/Antuino/
Garry
On 9/4/2019 7:20 PM, Christopher J.
Shaker, KJ7BLE wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Guess we need an #antuino hashtag.
Thank you for the answer that it does NOT charge the batteries.
Does anyone have the specs for the power input?
Thank you,
Chris Shaker
KJ7BLE
On 9/4/2019 7:18 PM, Mark - N7EKU
wrote:
Hi Christopher,
The schematic shows that the ground connection for the battery
pack comes from the power input jack and this becomes
disconnected when a plug is inserted there.? So there is no
circuit anymore for getting power to the battery pack and it
will not be charging or anything.
73,
Mark.
|
Another point of view is to stay with the standard LCD as it works decently. The color displays add appreciable power consumption. Someone with motor skill issues may do better with the standard unit, but you do have to press the tuning knob then use the knob to select the menu action. A v5 board may not need mods for spurious. I added a simple agc mod, the one by vk3ye, it squashes big signals as I tune across a band.
73 Curt
|
The Antuino draws 0.080ma at 5v.
With a linear regulator to 5v, the regulator is dissipating (12v-5v)*0.080 = 0.560 Watts.
Much over 12v going in and the LM78L05 will soon overheat and go into thermal shutdown.
See the datasheet for the Theta-JC and Theta-JA? (junction to case if case has a good heatsink,
junction to ambient air if just air cooling).? Those specs give the temperature rise of the silicon junction
for a given dissipation in Watts.
?
Jerry
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Thu, Sep 5, 2019 at 07:05 AM, Garry48 wrote:
?
?
This gent says 9-12VDC, but the voltage regulator data sheet says it will take up to 30VDC.? Take note of the milliAmp rating.? It is low, so I'd stay at 12V or less.? No sense converting voltage into heat.
There is a group on groups.io; when I find it, I'll post it.
Garry / WD0DUD
|
High pitched tone at 14.074 mhz
Hi everyone, I am experiencing something odd, when tuning around on dummy load or no antenna/dummy load attached i hear a high pitched squeal that goes up in frequency as you tune a couple khz up (like to 14.079) then drops off.
If you set ATT to anything even like 8.. it goes away.
I am on a ubitx 4, with the KD8CEC Firmware and nextion display, unplugging display completely does not fix it, touching the crystals on the raduino or on the board dont change anything.. pulling out the antenna from board does not remove it.
it seems this is a birdie, could it be a bad arduino?
It is semi noticable on a tuned antenna but very very very faint under the noise.. This only happens on the 20m FT8 frequency and then somewhere in the high 5 mhz range (dont care about the 5mhz).
Sound clip -- lots of static cause its faint into my PC recording, may need to turn it up, and it will get louder partially in.
thanks for the help, everything else works great on this, other than the steady constant tone/"beep"
Chris
N7CCX
|
Thom
Yes, it can be a a bit overwhelming the options for the build. We are adding the JackAl board and 7" screens.?
I also have a Bitx40 that I was planing to build as portable unit. Since new Ham's sometimes have restrictions on putting up antennas.? This way new Ham's could have a rid to use anywhere at a low cost.??
73
Eric KC3GDV
On Wed, Sep 4, 2019 at 6:43 PM Thom LaCosta < tlchost@...> wrote: I have yet to purchase anything....from what I read, i think I'm going to have to study the project more closely, as there seem to many more options/addins than I realized.? I appreciate the offers...will post more when I know more.
And yes, I was active on qrp-l and also host the drake list
73, Thom k3hrn
Eric
Wonderful offer. I don't know Thom but remember him from qrp-l. In my judgment a small team of builders can take turns working on his rig, in parallel with your own rigs.
Important is to find out what kind of enclosure he has, but even the standard supplied wiring is good. I see his email is on . email him personally to see if he can drive, or whether you need to pick up his rig.
Your timing seems better, as we already finished much of our build here in Carroll County, more than 2 dozen rigs. Check out our K3PZN ubitx page for some good info.
Curt WB8YYY
|
This
gent says 9-12VDC, but the voltage regulator data sheet says it
will take up to 30VDC.? Take note of the milliAmp rating.? It is
low, so I'd stay at 12V or less.? No sense converting voltage
into heat.
There
is a group on groups.io; when I find it, I'll post it.
Garry
/ WD0DUD
On 9/4/2019 7:20 PM, Christopher J.
Shaker, KJ7BLE wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Guess we need an #antuino hashtag.
Thank you for the answer that it does NOT charge the batteries.
Does anyone have the specs for the power input?
Thank you,
Chris Shaker
KJ7BLE
On 9/4/2019 7:18 PM, Mark - N7EKU
wrote:
Hi Christopher,
The schematic shows that the ground connection for the battery
pack comes from the power input jack and this becomes
disconnected when a plug is inserted there.? So there is no
circuit anymore for getting power to the battery pack and it
will not be charging or anything.
73,
Mark.
|
Adrien -- I did exactly this with a old 16v laptop brick power adapter. The 16v from the power adapter went direct (well, thru a fuse) to the brown wire, and direct to a? DC-DC down converter making 12v for the main board and everything else.
It was a fun project, and no pain.? What was gained? Mostly satisfaction. Extra watts? Yes, about 10% to 20% depending.? Would anyone on the receiving end know I had juiced my uBITX with extra carburetors? Not likely. But I did have to add bigger heat sinks for the extra heat generated and the digital mode.?
Try it. Nothing to lose, other than anything you might fry, burn up, or torch. hahaha.?
|
A 12v power supply is recommended. It draws about 80 ma of current when in operation. Most of it goes to light up the display. I didn't have any spare pin on the Arduino to turn the power to the display on/off, so it remains on, otherwise, we could have?done with less than 40 ma of current. I have operated it on 9v battery too. However, for most, I operate it with the six AA cells inside the case, I haven't run out of the first set yet. - f
- f
On Thu, Sep 5, 2019 at 1:20 PM Christopher J. Shaker, KJ7BLE < cjshaker@...> wrote:
Raj:
Thank you. I did actually resolder both sides, and used a solder
sucker to remove the excess.
I'll look at it again tommorow.
It powered up and worked with a 12 vdc power supply.
Chris Shaker
KJ7BLE
On 9/4/2019 11:35 PM, Raj vu2zap wrote:
Chris,
The power connecter leads have to be resoldered on BOTH sides of
the PCB.
The reason
is that PTH has been drilled out wile fitting the socket.
Raj
At 05-09-19, you wrote:
I appear to be having
the same
problem with my Antuino.
It won't power up with the battery pack. I reflowed the solder
joints.
The diode appears to be operating like a Capacitor, ie - it
conducts
power for a short period of time, then stops conducting power.
What are the power specs for the external power input? Does the
Antuino
charge NiMh batteries when connected to external power? I looked
on the
schematic, and it does not appear to say, either.
Thank you,
Chris Shaker
KJ7BLE
|
Raj:
Thank you. I did actually resolder both sides, and used a solder
sucker to remove the excess.
I'll look at it again tommorow.
It powered up and worked with a 12 vdc power supply.
Chris Shaker
KJ7BLE
On 9/4/2019 11:35 PM, Raj vu2zap wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Chris,
The power connecter leads have to be resoldered on BOTH sides of
the PCB.
The reason
is that PTH has been drilled out wile fitting the socket.
Raj
At 05-09-19, you wrote:
I appear to be having
the same
problem with my Antuino.
It won't power up with the battery pack. I reflowed the solder
joints.
The diode appears to be operating like a Capacitor, ie - it
conducts
power for a short period of time, then stops conducting power.
What are the power specs for the external power input? Does the
Antuino
charge NiMh batteries when connected to external power? I looked
on the
schematic, and it does not appear to say, either.
Thank you,
Chris Shaker
KJ7BLE
|
I am looking forward to receiving my Antuino :) I guess I would power it with rechargeable Eneloop AA batteries. I think that keeping the voltage at 8 or 9vdc would keep it without overheating if used rather continuously (eg. as a LO to mixers).
Il 05/set/2019 07:14, "Christopher J. Shaker, KJ7BLE" < cjshaker@...> ha scritto:
Damn. Guess I could have done that, too.
Thank you!
Chris
On 9/4/2019 7:31 PM, Mark - N7EKU
wrote:
Hi,
From the schematic you can see that the power input goes directly,
and only, to an lm78l05acz voltage regulator.? The datasheet for
that says it will take a maximum input voltage of 35VDC and and
needs a minimum of 7VDC to provide a steady 5V to the arduino.? So
the input voltage is pretty flexible, although I think most will
be using either a 9V or 12V adapter supply (or batteries).
73,
Mark.
|
Chris,
The power connecter leads have to be resoldered on BOTH sides of the PCB.
The reason
is that PTH has been drilled out wile fitting the socket.
Raj
At 05-09-19, you wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
I appear to be having the same
problem with my Antuino.
It won't power up with the battery pack. I reflowed the solder joints.
The diode appears to be operating like a Capacitor, ie - it conducts
power for a short period of time, then stops conducting power.
What are the power specs for the external power input? Does the Antuino
charge NiMh batteries when connected to external power? I looked on the
schematic, and it does not appear to say, either.
Thank you,
Chris Shaker
KJ7BLE
|
Damn. Guess I could have done that, too.
Thank you!
Chris
On 9/4/2019 7:31 PM, Mark - N7EKU
wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Hi,
From the schematic you can see that the power input goes directly,
and only, to an lm78l05acz voltage regulator.? The datasheet for
that says it will take a maximum input voltage of 35VDC and and
needs a minimum of 7VDC to provide a steady 5V to the arduino.? So
the input voltage is pretty flexible, although I think most will
be using either a 9V or 12V adapter supply (or batteries).
73,
Mark.
|
Re: UBitx v5 Not Saving Calibration or BFO adjustments with CEC v 1.20 Nextion
Just replace the Nano and see. While desoldering leave the pins on the Raduino board and
remember to order a Nano without soldered pins. Use some help if you are not confident!
Raj
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
At 05-09-19, you wrote: Thanks gary, yes i'ved tried to push ptt longer but nothing changed...yes i see "calibration set! Etc" message...on power on everything is lost...maybe a e2prom defect in the arduino?
|
Yer 9 volts 500ma should handle its operations just fine.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Sep 4, 2019, at 7:20 PM, Christopher J. Shaker, KJ7BLE < cjshaker@...> wrote:
Guess we need an #antuino hashtag.
Thank you for the answer that it does NOT charge the batteries.
Does anyone have the specs for the power input?
Thank you,
Chris Shaker
KJ7BLE
On 9/4/2019 7:18 PM, Mark - N7EKU
wrote:
Hi Christopher,
The schematic shows that the ground connection for the battery
pack comes from the power input jack and this becomes disconnected
when a plug is inserted there.? So there is no circuit anymore for
getting power to the battery pack and it will not be charging or
anything.
73,
Mark.
|
Hi,
From the schematic you can see that the power input goes directly, and only, to an lm78l05acz voltage regulator.? The datasheet for that says it will take a maximum input voltage of 35VDC and and needs a minimum of 7VDC to provide a steady 5V to the arduino.? So the input voltage is pretty flexible, although I think most will be using either a 9V or 12V adapter supply (or batteries).
73,
Mark.
|
Guess we need an #antuino hashtag.
Thank you for the answer that it does NOT charge the batteries.
Does anyone have the specs for the power input?
Thank you,
Chris Shaker
KJ7BLE
On 9/4/2019 7:18 PM, Mark - N7EKU
wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Hi Christopher,
The schematic shows that the ground connection for the battery
pack comes from the power input jack and this becomes disconnected
when a plug is inserted there.? So there is no circuit anymore for
getting power to the battery pack and it will not be charging or
anything.
73,
Mark.
|
Hi Christopher,
The schematic shows that the ground connection for the battery pack comes from the power input jack and this becomes disconnected when a plug is inserted there.? So there is no circuit anymore for getting power to the battery pack and it will not be charging or anything.
73,
Mark.
|
I appear to be having the same problem with my Antuino.
It won't power up with the battery pack. I reflowed the solder
joints. The diode appears to be operating like a Capacitor, ie -
it conducts power for a short period of time, then stops
conducting power.
What are the power specs for the external power input? Does the
Antuino charge NiMh batteries when connected to external power? I
looked on the schematic, and it does not appear to say, either.
Thank you,
Chris Shaker
KJ7BLE
On 8/23/2019 6:42 AM, Jim Sheldon
wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Ashhar and all,
I found the problem and fixed it. ?It was not completely bad
soldering on the DC connector, it was also the 1N4148 diode in
series with the incoming 9 volts being OPEN. ?After re-flowing
all the solder joints from the component side and checking
continuity, I still got nothing from the 9V connectors + side to
the side terminal on the main DC connector. ?I checked
continuity from the cathode of the diode to that point and it
was good so I checked the diode -- no forward conductivity at
all. ?I have a well stocked parts bin, replaced the diode and
now everything works as it should. ?
Anyone having this problem that re-flowing solder on the DC
connector doesn't fix, be sure to check the diode as well.
?1N4148's are pretty rugged but I've received bad ones even from
Digi-Key and Mouser in the anti-static strips they come in and
it's not all that uncommon.
Jim - W0EB
Oh yes, how about a written manual in PDF format rather than
video? ?Some of us would much rather read the book rather that
watch you-tube videos. ?Especially when needing info and the
internet is not available!
Jim
------ Original Message ------
Sent: 8/22/2019 9:22:14 PM
Subject: Re: [BITX20] Antuino manual
Jim,
The SMD parts are assembled on a Panasonic
pick and place. No chance of a reversed diode. What is,
however, possible is that the DC connector, which is hand
soldered, hasnt been soldered properly. Open up the box,
unscrew the PCB and flow solder on the tabs of the DC
connector from the component side. I covered this problem
a while ago.?
A video manual is in the works. I finished a
few yesterday, I will start posting th3 videos over the
weekend.
73, f
On Fri 23 Aug, 2019, 6:17
AM Jim Sheldon, < w0eb@...> wrote:
That would be nice.? Mine works fine on the
external power input but 6 brand new AA cells in the
battery box (9.56V) wont even light it up.? I did
check and have the 9+ volts on the PCB terminals but
without a manual and current schematic I don't want to
take it apart.? Not really a happy camper right now.?
Farhan take note I suspect an open ?or reversed diode
but without a schematic I can trust, I don't want to
destroy it accidentally.
Jim, W0EB?
?
This may not be going to the right group.
Is there a manual available for the Antuino? My unit
arrived today.
I thought I joined the Antuino group but I see the
last posting I received was on 8/17.
John Norris
KI4UCN
|
Re: CEC firmware upgrade issues...
I meant +1 to Evan's help, AND I am slow to post an agreeing comment that was in draft stage.
|
Re: CEC firmware upgrade issues...
+1 on what Evan kindly said, but I'm slow to post.? Use version 1.2 for your V5 hardware. It should default to V5. You've already mastered most of the common stumbling blocks. But, before one of us nice folks leads you down a rabbit hole. Save what is in the EEPROM from the factory.? If you load the CEC firmware, you can use the memory manager to read and then save the EEPROM data.? Do this before even considering going into any calibration mode. Very nice utility! I have my own 'prior' art, but it looks like an 'od -h', LOL.
?
|
Chris Shaker, KJ7BLE
Raj vu2zap