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Re: uBITX 4 Encoder
Doug Person
开云体育Thanks Mar. I'm not entirely sure what kind I have. But I guess experimentation is the best approach. I agree about having a separate switch. That might be something I implement. 73, Doug -- KJ0F On 3/29/2019 9:42 AM, Mark - N7EKU
wrote:
Hi Doug, -- 73 de Doug -- KJ0F |
Re: uBITX 4 Encoder
Mark - N7EKU
Hi Doug,
The one that comes with the board is a standard mechanical quadrature encoder with a mometary NO switch.? You can replace it with another quadrature encoder either mechanical or electrical.?? I don't know what the resolution of the standard one is, but it's not super high so you would want to be careful with that.? The switch can be separate (and I am starting to think it would be better this way so that the encoder doesn't change settings when pushing the button). 73, Mark. |
Re: 2N2222A getting super hot
Jim, do a web search for USB powered microscopes. Some are < $50 and amazingly useful. I have one that connects to PC has built in LED lighting, allows you to snap pics, etc. Some also have numerous accessories (stand options, etc). Not infared, but mine has saved me many times. On March 29, 2019, at 8:40 AM, Jim Strohm <jim.strohm@...> wrote: This is a little off-thread -- With the advent of SMDs everywhere -- does anybody know of a CHEAP thermal / IR camera for PCB inspection? I know that you can get a thermal /IR videocam for several hundred dollars, but we basically just need the imaging module and enough of a lens that we can focus on a 6x6 inch PCB, or section thereof.?? Thoughts?? Some of the older Sony camcorders used to see into the infrared, and with an infrared filter over the lens gave a decent IR image, although in B&W.? A compact, cheap thermal / IR cam would be a very useful tool for troubleshooting. 73 Jim N6OTQ |
Re: 2N2222A getting super hot
On Fri, Mar 29, 2019 at 05:39 AM, Jim Strohm wrote:
does anybody know of a CHEAP thermal /If you are into DYI here are a couple of possibilities.? I have one of the?Melexis MLX90640 devices I bought from Digikey. The example software I found (that someone hacked to run on the RPi) wrote directly to the frame buffer of my RPi, so had issues with it being overwritten by the desktop. I bought a tiny color OLED display and when that day comes when I have some spare time I'll port the example code to display on the external OLED display rather than the main HDMI monitor.? The example code uses too much RAM to work on a basic Arduino, but might work on a "Blue Pill" microprocessor board. For the fun of it I tried running the SD card from my "regular" Raspberry Pi on a Raspberry Pi Zero. Seems the Desktop UI of a full RPi linux install has grown to the point the RPi zero could not reliably run it. (Although I need to check with a different brand/size SD card to be sure SD card compatibility was not the issue.) But, a cut down linux install probably would work on the Zero; making for a small portable thermal camera. Tom, wb6b |
Re: Shaking my head in disbelief....
Kelly Mabry
Paul, I too remember? the good old days, but it's been about 40 years since I built anything...
Heathkits were my rigs of choice Dx60B & HR10B & the HG10 vfo. Until I received my kenwood TS520. Now I run a TS590SG; but I am falling for this ubitx more and more. I do believe I am turning the corner on this thing. I am investigating things this A.M. Having fun! Kelly K5AID? |
Re: 2N2222A getting super hot
This is a little off-thread -- With the advent of SMDs everywhere -- does anybody know of a CHEAP thermal / IR camera for PCB inspection? I know that you can get a thermal /IR videocam for several hundred dollars, but we basically just need the imaging module and enough of a lens that we can focus on a 6x6 inch PCB, or section thereof.?? Thoughts?? Some of the older Sony camcorders used to see into the infrared, and with an infrared filter over the lens gave a decent IR image, although in B&W.? A compact, cheap thermal / IR cam would be a very useful tool for troubleshooting. 73 Jim N6OTQ |
Re: 2N2222A getting super hot
Joe,
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Which version is this ? In my V4 boards even the 3904 run hot. Raj At 29-03-19, you wrote:
Hi, |
Re: Shaking my head in disbelief....
Gordon,
I too built a triple 811 linear amplifier (when I was about 15 yrs old). It was grounded grid and the bifilar coil for the filaments was a tricky part - no toroids in those days. It had a surplus roller inductor PI network for antenna matching. Put out about 300 watts on most bands I think. It did not have a lot of gain, but was super stable, and the glow of the filaments and the mercury vapor rectifiers was great, and all those ceramic plate circuit connectors - I loved that box and wish I still had it. Ah, the old days - when things glow now, it's generally NOT a good sign :) This stuff can sure jump start a career - 63 years later I am still at it every day. 73, Paul |
Re: Shaking my head in disbelief....
?Regarding the micro USB connectors, there are 2 different kinds. ?The one looks to be the most common type as used on my android and rechargeable flashlight. ?The other, as is found on the Raduino I have, is the same as is used for my Nikon camera. ?I found this one on Ebay easily. ?The one used for my android, I get at the Dollar Tree. You may be able to get them cheaper. as per the picture, the Old Verion is the one my Nikon and raduino use. ?TheMicro USBVerion, as I said, looks like the more common as my Android uses. |
Re: Shaking my head in disbelief....
Here's an archived "scan" of the 2005-ish kit instx I followed. It so happens that I found the circuit board and plans but not the parts in the Great Abyss, so I ordered the few parts not also found in the Abyss -
Note the advice on swapping a few resistors for more gain.? I did that, then added a trim pot on the output to fine tune the with/without audio levels.? The result at home is that filtered CW comes put slightly hotter than straight audio; you can set as desired. It really punches a hole through noise or a crowd, and, it's cheap & simple (like me). Here's another way to do the AGC thing AND really suckpout the weak signals from the mud - get the wideband RF preamp from Kitsandparts (.com) and a 5-watt audio amp module, and have a preamp that auto-levels its operation in AGC form [as I've worked the transistor at the input and at the output, seeing equal performance either way].? The manual gain is nice to have, too, and doesn't require runnng RG174 cable from two trace cuts up to the dashboard-mounterd pot - |
Re: 2N2222A getting super hot
Joe,
RV1 & 2 "can" be brought up to more than 100ma each, at the cost (very possibly) of toasting your IRF510 final output devices :)?? I don't recommend it. Like yourself, I note the 2N2222 replacements in the predriver and driver getting warm. My "warm" may be your "hot" due to perspective, maybe not. Can you keep a finger on it for 10 seconds without experiencing real pain??? If you get a genuine burn injury,? it's probably running hot; my suspicion is that, as this is a terribly common upgrade,? a bit warm or very warm is just fine. As an explanation, follow the circuitry.? Those transistors are basically shorting 12 volts to earth/ground at an RF rate, save for the 11-ohm resistors that govern the process.? The result at each point is to take a sample of the stage before it and make that energy "wiggle" the next transistor, whose job it is to almost short out the next stages' 12-volt feed at an HF frequency rate. Virtually draining B+ current through the resistor creates heat (how an oven works, etc etc). The whole reason for swapping the 22-ohm resistors for 11-ohm chips is that the 2n2222 can handle the greater workload - the more direct conduct of B+ to ground due to reduced resistance? - and delivers greater output as a result.? That more heat is produced, should be expected within reason. Hope this helps. Ted K3RTA |
Re: 2N2222A getting super hot
Gordon Gibby
Maybe check with an ohmmeter to make sure you ended up with 11 ohms. Then measure the voltage across the resistors while turned on, use ohms law to figure out the current through the transistors
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Allyson told people what current she preferred. Measure the voltage from the emitter to the collector, multiply by the current through the transistor, to figure out the resting dissipation; compared to the specified for the device. Somewhere in there you’ll probably find your problem. There might be an incorrect biasing set up. Gordon On Mar 29, 2019, at 02:44, Joe Puma <kd2nfc@...> wrote: |
Re: Shaking my head in disbelief....
Kelly Mabry
Curt,
the more I listen and get used to this radio, the more I find I love about it. I did indeed get the Nextion display and the CEC software working.? I LOVE IT. I wished I could have gotten the 5inch screen! I also feel I need to adjust the bfo, based on threads I have read here. I haven't transmitted with it, as I sometimes I just enjoy listening.? I plan on getting a condenser microphone for it. The ND6T agc will be next.? 73,? Kelly K5AID? |
Re: Shaking my head in disbelief....
Kelly Mabry
Ted, I would really appreciate your plans with the OP amp and parts. I had located the sota beams filter, but if I can build it, it would fit in with the project better, and save my wallet. And yes I intend to get the ND6T AFC in April. I also want to add internal lipo batteries as well, so my budget is limited to small improvements each month.
Thanks! Kelly K5AID? |
Re: Shaking my head in disbelief....
Kelly,
One approach to "low audio", and it works well for me so far in development, is to add nd let the AGC you're going to add govern the w-i-d-e range of levels you'd otherwise experience.? One can build the earlier ND6T version out of spare parts, or get his newer, ready-to-drop-in board which soldiers in place very nicely. If you want a narrow CW fiter, kits exist for about US$ 12-15 or I can upload the plans from one using a simple O2A op amp & a few common resistors/capacitors. You'd be amazed... 73, Ted K3RTA |
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