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The K1 relay caused dismay here, so I replaced it with a small DPDT switch.? LEDs on the TX and RX lines provide a visual indication of transceiver mode.? I like this arrangement better than a PTT pushbutton or operation via the CW key closure.
--
Jon Titus, KZ1G
Herriman, UT USA

Here's a breadboard technique that might help others.? When my uBITX transceiver kit arrived I had no ideas for a case, so I mounted the board on a piece of plywood and used 1/8-inch clear plastic as front and rear panels for controls and connectors.? I've used this "breadboard" technique for other projects because it lets me rearrange control locations, ensure clearances between components, jacks, heatsinks, etc.? I don't ruin a nice front panel if I need to add an extra pushbutton or switch. After I learned about the W0EB and N5IB RadI2Cino (Rad I2C ino) project, and received a board and parts kit, I needed more room for the replacement board and a larger LCD. The wooden base let me glue a section of plywood on the front (see photo) and move the front panel forward by about 4 cm. I got more space, quickly added an extra pushbutton, and drilled holes to mount the LCD.? Now I can decide of how I want to proceed with a complete package for the transceiver and I'll have a template for holes and cut-outs.? But I might make a few minor changes before then.


--
Jon Titus, KZ1G
Herriman, UT USA

Just a suggestion,? but if you adjust the contrast control on the back of the display you can get rid of those dark rectangles and it will be easier to see.
--
Lee - N9LO? "I Void Warranties"

?

Hi Don: In an effort to eliminate the RF getting back into the audio amp I replaced the TX RF output twisted pair between the uBitx board and my PL259 with coax also switched to coax wrapped 5 turns around a 120-43 core between the volume control and the AGC board. I still hear my voice loud and clear from the speaker on 80 and 40M. I am going to look for an easy way to to mute the amp or speaker.

If I made it, I would, but it was purchased from the kind gentlemen at . I don't have the print files myself, and as they're selling 'em, I doubt they're going to put the files on Thingiverse.

I also don't yet own a 3d printer. :(

Soon...soon...

I found that there was a removable insert on the knob,made it a little too loose but built up diameter of encoder rod with insulation tape. Works well.
John Vo1jcc.

Whose firmware is using this "ALS" Tuning ? Or are you referring to some of your past projects vs. the uBITX?

Pete WK8S

Just discovered you've written one Jack LOL :)

Thanks Jack - some top tips there :-)? Up until a couple of years ago all my programming was PIC chips and assembler so I'm a bit of a novice with the Arduino and have learned on-the-job as it were.? Having struggled through Fortran and Pascal forty years ago, I've carefully avoided anything to do with C since then HI.? Time I bought a book I think.

Thanks again and 73, Martin - G4FKK

Almost looks like a do not enter sign?

On Wed, Jun 27, 2018 at 08:12 pm, Tim Gorman wrote:

attach it with the same screws you use on the fan.

Good idea, but I hot glued the fan to the case.? Even cheaper than screws.? I could hot glue a piece of screen to it, too.

Besides, my local hardware store wanted 13? for one piece of 3mm nut!? They'd probably want twice that for 4 in? of screen!

Today I'll be looking over the schematic for a 12V connection that's on during TX that doesn't use the PA supply voltage.

BITX QSO Afternoon/Evening, Sunday, July 1 (Happy Canada Day, Tom!), 3PM & 7PM Local Time, 7277 kHz in North America, 7177 kHz elsewhere.

Join us as we make contacts with our BitX-40s or uBitXs or anything else on 7.277 MHz in 40 meters!

This is a worldwide event for BitX40 (and other QRP)?stations starting at 3PM and 7pm in each time zone. To participate, call CQ BitX on Sunday, starting at?3PM and/or 7PM?your local time. The BitX QSO Night continues through the evening and conditions usually improve after sunset, so it is worthwhile to participate later in the evening.

Suggested Best Operating Practices:

Work at QRP power levels unless conditions require more power.
Call and listen for CQ BITX on the hour and every quarter hour.
It is helpful if you call CQ BITX with your callsign, name and location.?
Repeat your callsign a number of times during your CQ BITX and during QSO's.
Start a QSO by confirming the callsign, location, name and signal report of the other operator.
Say the callsign, name and location of the other operator so others can hear.
If the frequency is busy, avoid long conversations.
After your initial QSO is complete, ask if there are any other stations who would like to contact.

Report your QSO's, discuss propagation, noise, signal reports, audio reports, antenna type, etc. in this thread.

This is an undirected, scheduled event.? The BITX QSO Night relies on you to call CQ BITX to initiate contacts with other stations, so warm up that final and transmit a few calls on Sunday evening.? Talk to you then!
--
John - WA2FZW

You could always go to the hardware store and get some heavy duty
screen wire, cut a grill out, and attach it with the same screws you
use on the fan.

They even make a black screen just for keeping dogs and cats from
scratching it and tearing it. Doggone strong. That's what I've used for
a speaker grill.

tim ab0wr

On Wed, 27 Jun 2018 08:24:44 -0700
"Arvo KD9HLC via Groups.Io" <arvopl@...> wrote:

On Wed, Jun 27, 2018 at 08:04 am, Doug W wrote:

...and spent about as much for the grate as your fan cost.

Haha, I keep sticking my finger in the fan so I'm waiting for this:

On Wed, Jun 27, 2018 at 08:31 am, Michael Babineau wrote:

If the fan is generating RF noise

Why not wire the fan into the TX power circuit so the fan is on only during TX?

Changing out those transistors have minimal to no effect for the lower bands.? It was part
of the chase for power at 10M and while I did get far better power the spur was amplified
as well.? For me a show stopper.? Others may deem it acceptable and proceed, its
their choice.??

The spurs are not directly impacted by the amp, nor are they caused by the amp.?
They exist before the arrive at the amp.? ?They are not an issue below 20mhz as?
the filters work for that range.? ?The problem is?trying to operate on 15,12 or 10M?
at any power level SSB.? ? ?I've gone though this many times now.??

With the ARRL Field Day (Saturday and Sunday) was upcoming up so I spent time
preparing the VHF station as I do that.? I have not gotten back to the bench yet.
Any solution I apply will be to suit me and I may write it up but it will be 10M only
as my wish is a 80,40,20,10m radio and its doable.??

CW at any frequency there is no issue.

Allison

If you're of a mind to allow imitation, you can upload the files and pictures of your key to

Dale
W5OHM

Well, it's alive! I still have to finish the mike, but I got it working in CW to test it. I'll finish building the mike in the next day or so, and hopefully I'll be on SSB by the weekend. I used my CWMorse.us translucent 3d-printed Navy-style straight key, as you can see in the pics below. I had a bad moment when the key didn't work, then remembered seeing a keyer setting in the setup and switched it to "Hand Key" and it seems to work just fine. Sorry, I forgot to take pics of the inside. The nickel shielding spray seems to be working quite well, though you can't see it in these pics.

The knobs on it are lousy. I didn't have a 4mm knob for the volume control, and the encoder knob is too small. I ordered some nicer ones and they'll be here by the weekend. I also have the little 50mm fan that was posted to the list from Ebay on order to keep the heat sinks cool, and I mounted a small speaker in the top of the case.

Thanks to Jim W0EB for those breakouts for the 3.5mm sockets and the encoder -- they made this soooo much easier.