Keyboard Shortcuts
Likes
- BITX20
- Messages
Search
Re: The new uBITX boards are here
Yes, the mounting holes and the raduino are exactly where they earlier were. Yes, there are test points all over. - f On Sat, 9 Jun 2018, 20:36 John AD0WX, <ad0wx@...> wrote: Oh, and one more question if I may: |
Re: RF power chain mods and improvements..
The ADA4895-2 that Howard chose to drive the IRF510's might turn out
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
to be a good high volume choice after all. Can buy that dual op-amp from analog.com for $3.21@1000, presents almost no load on the preceding stage, and apparently drives the IRF510's without a transformer. Preceding stage with the HA-5002 is a voltage follower and a 1:13 impedance ratio transformer. The HA-5002 is spendy for what it does here, should be plenty of other ways to implement that.? Jerry On Sat, Jun 9, 2018 at 08:54 am, Jerry Gaffke wrote: Those parts are likely a bit too expensive for hfsignals, but way more cost effective for most of us |
Re: PA transistor Heatsinking of a uBITX
#ubitx
Ralph,
Did the RF16HHF1 change make the output more consistent across the frequency range of the transmitter? Ray AB7HE |
Re: RF power chain mods and improvements..
I totally agree wit you
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
IZ4SJP carlo Inviato da iPhone 5 Il giorno 09 giu 2018, alle ore 18:15, Bill Cromwell <wrcromwell@...> ha scritto: |
Re: RF power chain mods and improvements..
Hi Allison,
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
This played a big part in my choice if the ubitx. I don't foresee any effort on my part to increase the power output at 10, 12, or 15 meters. I have used rigs on SSB with two watts and less on 10 and 15 meters to work the world. Of course, solar activity cycles influences that but I have worked a lot stations with power levels low enough that no meters were moving! Another way to express your point is - if we really wanted a radically different radio maybe that is what we should have bought. Like you, I already have higher powered radios. Some of them weigh a pound per watt <evil grin>. Some are more reasonable. But 100 watt radios (even solid state rigs) on a park bench quickly burn through the batteries! I do expect to make some minor mods involving CW keying, thumps, and a front panel "drive" control to manage the power levels. Ten watts is not *always* needed. One watt is not *always* enough. Sometimes one hundred watts is not enough. Change bands. The ubitx has all of the HF bands. 73, Bill KU8H On 06/08/2018 10:35 PM, ajparent1/KB1GMX wrote:
---snip------ --
bark less - wag more |
Re: RF power chain mods and improvements..
Howard,
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Thanks for posting that! I find it interesting that you got away without a transformer at T10. You say flat to 30mhz, have you breadboarded it, or is that a result from simulation? Those parts are likely a bit too expensive for hfsignals, but way more cost effective for most of us than spending weeks trying to get some $0.15 parts to do the job. >? The MMIC has a absolute maximum voltage of 4.5 VDC. >? Assuming you use a transformer (actually you must to get the drive level ?you need for the output stage) >? you an only use a +2 volt supply for the device for a 4 v p-p swing. Mouser summary for the BGA616 mmic says a 6v supply, but turns out that's the rail feeding the resistor, the device sees 4.5v max. Most of the new devices are shooting for very low power supply voltages.? I can't quite follow the logic regarding the statement? "you can only use a +2 volt supply". With a transformer between the mmic and the load it would seem the mmic supply could be most anything. Data sheet suggests it would typically be a 33 ohm resistor from 6v, device drawing 60ma, so 6v - 33*0.060 = 4.0v at the device if trying to use the BGA616 mmic. At 18dBm, that mmic might just barely replace Q911,912. But not drive the IRF510's. Not a good choice for inclusion in the uBitx. But still, an interesting and very cheap mmic. Jerry On Sat, Jun 9, 2018 at 06:00 am, Howard Fidel wrote:
Attached is my driver it goes between VR1 and the outputs of T10 you need to remove C84 and T10 and insert this circuit. I am using the AMP signal to reduce the overall power output when driving a linear amp which needs 5W not 10W. U7 is a current driver, I chose it because I have a number of them, I probably could select something better, or use an emitter follower but it should do the job at 0 cost for me. The same with the T13-1 transformer, I have them. The opamp was selected for its speed slew rate voltage and current drive capability. C45 is there because U7 needs a minimum load capacitance for stability. I will see if I need to add something there later. TX is the switched 12 volts that is there in transmit only. |
Nice job!
Did you try to capture two consective dits? Just to make sure the trailing edge was being completed well before the next beginning edge? If it is then just adding this capacitor would work for most purposes. Thanks, tim ab0wr On Sat, 9 Jun 2018 13:48:04 +1000 "Allan Mason" <allan.vk2gr@...> wrote: This email is for those interested in using the transceiver for CW. |
Re: Spurs for Dummies?
#ubitx-help
The pa3ake are very good filters. However I am not sure they and any other BPF can filter enough the spur especially at the 15m band. What much down are the spurs at 15 and 12m bands? Il 09/giu/2018 15:07, <ulf.jagfors@...> ha scritto: Perhaps these practical BPF hints could be of value |
Re: Building homebrew ubitx: Need pre-v3 schematic PDF. Also, source for 45M15 (45 MHz IF) filter?
A couple of options (for making the crystal filter available to experimenters) come to mind -
1. Encourage the manufacturer to distribute via aliexpress (china->US small package shipping is very inexpensive, as the parcel volumes are very high) 2. Encourage a group buy in US (or other destinations) which could receive quantities sufficient to justify the China>India>X shipping route. I think either (or an alternative) is worth considering, as it would encourage further experimentation and homebrewing, vs. drifting bitx towards a primarily commercial product. Thank you, Dave |
Re: Another uBITX in a wooden box
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Il giorno 09 giu 2018, alle ore 15:21, Lee <mr.olson@...> ha scritto:
|
Re: PA transistor Heatsinking of a uBITX
#ubitx
I switched to the RF16HHF1 output transistors and this allowed me to directly bolt them to the heat sink.? I used one large heat sink for the two of them. This heat sink is bolted to the box I put it in.? I was lucky in one sense in that the box was just the right size to have the display out the front and the board just fit to the back of the box. While not as nice looking as many of the others, you can see what I did here:? One pix is with the original transistors and one is with the larger heat sink. Mine is near the end under my call of KU4PT On Sat, Jun 9, 2018 at 8:06 AM, Peter LB0K <lb0k@...> wrote:
|
Re: PA transistor Heatsinking of a uBITX
#ubitx
Peter,
Aside from logistics (a plastic case, rear of cabinet too far from board, etc.) there is no downside. I do this on most of my BITX's, whenever possible, and it is the superior choice. No need for a heat-sink other than the metal case itself. It hardly gets warm at all at maximum power. Much more robust mounting. Lighter weight. Just use standard TO-220 mounting hardware including the insulators, a little heat-sink compound if you use a mica insulator. Cooler than the supplied heat-sinks by far. 73, Don |
Re: The new uBITX boards are here
My Yaesu HF rig is jealous.? Since I received my uBITX v3, I have been spending all of my ham radio time with it instead of my main rig - it's so much fun.? Thank you Ashhar for such a great product at an affordable price!
So much fun that I have ordered the v4 board.? I tried to make some of the mods to my v3 but I don't have the tools to work with surface mount devices (and I damaged my board trying to remove a capacitor - some creative soldering got it back working again). Questions: 1) Is the mounting hole pattern for the v4 board the same as the v3? 2) Were the Raduino and analog connectors moved? I ask about the board hole pattern and the connectors because I bought one of the 'amateurradiokits.in' enclosures to house my uBITX. 3) Is there a test point where an S-meter signal could be obtained?? So I can use this feature in KD8CEC's firmware. Thanks, John |
Re: RF power chain mods and improvements..
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýAttached is my driver it goes between
VR1 and the outputs of T10 you need to remove C84 and T10 and
insert this circuit. I am using the AMP signal to reduce the
overall power output when driving a linear amp which needs 5W not
10W. U7 is a current driver, I chose it because I have a number of
them, I probably could select something better, or use an emitter
follower but it should do the job at 0 cost for me. The same with
the T13-1 transformer, I have them. The opamp was selected for its
speed slew rate voltage and current drive capability. C45 is there
because U7 needs a minimum load capacitance for stability. I will
see if I need to add something there later. TX is the switched 12
volts that is there in transmit only.
I am working on a PCB with this being one part of a daughter board for the uBitx. I would be interested in any feedback. I am not suggesting that this is a cost effective way of improving the uBitx for production. I will post the entire schematic in a few days. Howard On 6/8/2018 11:50 PM, Jerry Gaffke via Groups.Io wrote: And if you really wanted an MMIC for the pre-driver,
|
Re: RF power chain mods and improvements..
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýThe MMIC has a absolute maximum voltage
of 4.5 VDC. Assuming you use a transformer (actually you must to
get the drive level you need for the output stage) you an only use
a +2 volt supply for the device for a 4 v p-p swing. So you need
at least? 1:2 step up transformer so the driver needs to source
more current to drive it. I am completing the design of a driver
that is flat to 30 MHz and will post it soon. It uses a current
driver and a dual opamp replacing everything from VR1 to T10.
Howard On 6/8/2018 11:50 PM, Jerry Gaffke via Groups.Io wrote: And if you really wanted an MMIC for the pre-driver,
|