I didn't mention, I'm just using the Arduino IDE not the Ian Lee memory manager which i cant seem to get it to read the nano (in windows)
vince
|
So,
My uBITX is working fine, so I should just leave it alone...Of Course not..
1.? Before I start mucking with the sketch, I want to be able to get it back to what came with the rig.
so went to?
downloaded the zip as usual.?
Inside there is the ubitx_20 folder the .ino with the ubitx_20, is, I assume that is what should be uploaded to the nano?
Is the CAT function an original part of the sketch that will get loaded with the ubitx_20..that i haven't tried to use? as I would like to have HRD control of the uBITX..
ugg..
?
Must not be thinking this through, Allard's changes on my 40 seemed to be easy enough.
quick answer would be appreciated.
Vince
n2aie
|
Re: Dirt cheap uBitx case
#ubitx
Thanks!? Ouch, always when you think you're getting close to done...? I've added the rj45 jack for my spare handheld mic along with a mini usb port on the back. I still need to wire up the up/down buttons off the jack.   I left the front plate with the original jacks in case I want to ever use them again.? If I don't I'll end up creating a new faceplate and have the rj45 jack directly on the front. There is now a 1" fan in the top along with a 2" speaker.? I ended up replacing the green screen with the blue and it's quite a bit easier on the eyes.? The case was painted hammered black on the top and bottom pieces. The front and back plates got coated in hammered silver.? I wanted a bit of an old-school vibe with the hammered paint.??  I realized I never gave the case dimensions - it's 7"wide x 6.5" long and 3" tall ( ~17.5 cm x 16 cm x 7 cm) When I make it back to the office I'll be printing up laser water slide decals for some last minute embellishments and labeling.? At this point I'm not sure I'd do another scratch built and recycled case due to the effort and extra time.???(lies, all lies)?I definitely spent more time and labor costs building and assembling than I would have if I bought a pre-made case. I've still got some more cable management to do on the inside but had to throw it all together for a quick distraction.?? 
|
Ian,
I am having difficulties trying to get uBITX Mgr v0.2 to read from UBITX.? I've tried the resisitor solution and the capacitor solution with no data showing in Manager.? The display does show db:40000000 and second line the standard LSB and Frequency.
any suggestions (from anyone would be appreciated)
N2AIE
Vince
|
Re: Solving problem with when plugging in a headphone causing a shorted to ground of C77 470uF to ground and may damage U1 TDA2822
Best bet is to plug in mic and headphones & antenna before you turn on power.?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Mar 16, 2018, at 4:37 PM, ve7hcw via Groups.Io < ve7hcw@...> wrote: If you don't use a? speaker? with your uBITx and use only a headphone. best idea is to add a 1K resistor to the negative lead of C77 (470uF capacitor) to charge the capacitor slowly when? first power up. Now when you insert the headphone ,any accidental shorting of the sleeve and tip to ground will not create a surge? from the U1 TDA2822 since? c77 is already charged by the 1K resistor. this will prevent a loud pop on your headphone as well as possible damage to the audio amp chip.
wayne 72
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Hi i, has anyone a component list available for the Ubitx ??
Kind regards
Alan
|
Re: PCB Price Comparison tool
3PCB is another:
73 Steve
G1KQH
|
Anyone with a good working configuration for CW with the KD8CEC software
I'm having trouble getting the TX and RX frequencies to match on CW.? If anyone has a good configuration for this, would you please post or send me the uBITX_Mgr .btx file.
Many thanks,
David
K0PD
|
Re: Soldering gun or iron
|
Re: PCB Price Comparison tool
I've used Seeed Studio (Fusion) for all of my boards and I think their quality is excellent. They are not cheap, but I like that I can drop-ship the boards if needed and they do DHL shipping if I'm in a hurry. Usually it takes about a week to get them to produce the PCB's.
Jack, W8TEE
On Saturday, March 17, 2018, 1:08:08 PM EDT, K9HZ <bill@...> wrote:
Heres what my PCB buddy says:
Bill, I have been using??for my boards. ?Insanely cheap price but so far fantastic quality. ?No routing restrictions like others. ?They take PayPal too. ?You may share that with these guys.
Dr.?William J. Schmidt - K9HZ J68HZ 8P6HK ZF2HZ PJ4/K9HZ VP5/K9HZ PJ2/K9HZ ? Owner - Operator Big Signal Ranch – K9ZC Staunton, Illinois ? Owner – Operator Villa Grand Piton - J68HZ Soufriere, St. Lucia W.I. Rent it:
email:??bill@... ?
On Mar 17, 2018, at 8:24 AM, denm178@... wrote: Check out Oshpark for pcb prices.
73 Dennis
|
Re: PCB Price Comparison tool
Heres what my PCB buddy says:
Bill, I have been using??for my boards. ?Insanely cheap price but so far fantastic quality. ?No routing restrictions like others. ?They take PayPal too. ?You may share that with these guys.
Dr.?William J. Schmidt - K9HZ J68HZ 8P6HK ZF2HZ PJ4/K9HZ VP5/K9HZ PJ2/K9HZ ? Owner - Operator Big Signal Ranch – K9ZC Staunton, Illinois ? Owner – Operator Villa Grand Piton - J68HZ Soufriere, St. Lucia W.I. Rent it:
email:??bill@... ?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Mar 17, 2018, at 8:24 AM, denm178@... wrote: Check out Oshpark for pcb prices.
73 Dennis
|
Re: VE1BWV audio pop fix - lost my sidetone
?I did try moving the circuit to the other side of R70, and also replacing R70 with 1K and 10K. Unfortunately none of this worked to bring the sidetone back.
Thanks
Any other suggestions?
Thanks
Howard K4LXY
|
Re: Finally finished boxing up my uBitX
#ubitx
Hey Joel,?
If you have a socket on the board I would definitely switch it out. Sound quality is really very good, although I never actually heard the rig with the 2822 so it's not really a comparison. If the chip is soldered in I don't know if it would be worth the bother, especially if you have everything working now.
Thinking about doing a pop fix but haven't picked one yet.
73 Mike
|
Re: Finally finished boxing up my uBitX
#ubitx
Hi Tim,
Just left it as is. I was thinking about copper tape on the top and sides, but given the way the board sits and the way the box goes together, decided it was more trouble that it would be worth. So far I haven't noticed any downside to not having the shielding.
73 Mike
|
Re: Finally finished boxing up my uBitX
#ubitx
Hi Howard,
The 2073 seems to beworking fine, good audio and plenty of volume, I've run it turned all the way up to drive the NesCAF, since you lose some volume as you crank down the bandwidth, and it's been fine, no problems at all.
Haven't done a pop fix yet, still mulling over the options. In the mean time I use the old trick of putting the phones just off the ear
73 Mike
|
Re: VE1BWV audio pop fix - lost my sidetone
Tried this - no luck.
Thanks
Howard
|
Re: Soldering gun or iron
Thanks Dave, I did order some Flux and Wick also.
On Saturday, March 17, 2018, 12:33:47 PM EDT, David Wilcox via Groups.Io <Djwilcox01@...> wrote:
If you plan on ANY rework (removing parts from a scrap rig or parts you soldered in in error) forget the solder sucker in that set. ?I have tried many different ones over the years and found them not effective. ?If you don't want to invest in a real solder vacuum removal device get some solder wick of different sizes and a bottle of rosin flux. ?Dip the wick in the flux, heat it up by the part you are removing and little by little the wick actually wicks up the solder until it is 95% removed. Then with a little heat on the remaining legs of whatever you are removing you can lift it off or out of the holes in the board. ?I have been doing that for years with great success. ?Then remove the excess flux with 91% rubbing alcohol available at any drug store.
Have fun.
Dave K8WPE
On Mar 17, 2018, at 11:35 AM, Fr Richard R via Groups.Io < rickocr2005@...> wrote: Well....... with all said and done..... this is what I finally decided to purchase for my beginning setup:
a simple set up for this beginner...... trying to keep things inexpensive for the time being.
Now to find the time to begin with the build.
thanks to all for your advice.? I am sure I will be looking at past emails in the group as I start!!
73 and God Bless
On Saturday, March 17, 2018, 9:43:42 AM EDT, Craig Thibodeaux < km4yec@...> wrote:
No way I was going to leave this alone…
First advice, don’t listen to any ONE on this list, nor or any other list of any nature…never one….try it yourself…try multiple ways, and stick with what works for you.
So, with that said, here’s mine…
Get a temperature controlled solder station…that doesn’t mean 4 detents with 4 temps….that means 0 degrees to 700+ F with ability to pick your temp….as you always want lowest temperature that will work for the job….similar to radio….lowest watts out needed to do the job…but, with ability just like radio….to blast it when needed…and fast….
I have a solder station that is a replacement for the exact same model….one stolen back in 1995 (along with scope, NTSC generator, freq counter….everything except my fluke….I am still using it daily….from MCM (called something different now)….last I checked they started selling it again, as customers complained when it was discontinued. Cost when I checked last was about $70. ?Tips got good back in the 90’s if you treat them right….I am using a tip from 1995 daily….very fine conical tip….will do almost anything….just slide up the barrel…
I recently bought one of these 2 in one hot air and solder rework stations….862D+….got mine for $49….most go from 60 to 65. ?I broke the soldering iron (shame it worked great, but when it fell out the car, it snapped in half), found out the element isn’t ceramic, but is nichrome….and first replacement isn’t right) ?the hot air works great, temperature tracks with a harbor freight thermocouple (so you know it has to be good)….my little builders group has been playing with this with manual pick and place, that is drivable….use a bicycle pump shell for z-axis, and steer with the T-handle, vacuum is a Tetra-whisper aquarium pump, and add a $30 USB camera (was daily special)…..a tube of MG solder paste, took off the nozzle and replace with smaller diameter nozzle off of empty flux refill bottle, and then used another of those empty bottle nozzles for the syringe pick up tube (luer lock) …..
if you want to see what we are doing go to Facebook Group: wecanhams?
this is latest with hot air/with no rework with pencil:
this one is a short video of the pick and place in action….with USB camera…I have made some improvements like 2 point clamps on the red tube and a recessed pick area...
Important to have a way to monitor the board temperature if you are using hot air or a reflow oven, and run a recognized heat profile…takes a little practice...
<28958739_2035568706459771_6244662275475505152_o.jpeg>
the latest hot air placement with no rework, paste was laid down with syringe, a little dab will do ya...
<29244570_2041142825902359_574099065751470080_o.jpeg>
the rework station bolted down, before accessories added to new home. We are working with a lot of junk and recycled, up cycled junk.
<28336400_2021687984514510_1756727514447237923_o.jpeg>
Drivable Pick and Place in action, see the video on FB group
<smdpnplib.png>
Our little builders group is having a blast with SMD’s….you should, too.?
Craig KM4YEC
On Mar 16, 2018, at 6:36 PM, Michael Hagen < motdog@...> wrote:
Great Place for Solder
and SMD Supplies! 72's Mike, WA6ISP
On 3/16/2018 3:27 PM, Roy Appleton
wrote:
I don't do a lot of SMD projects and so I don't
use a mask just manually apply the solder paste from a syringe
that the paste came in. My advice is that you can't have too
small a nozzle. In the attached photo I use the cone shaped one
because the black one is too big. You'd be surprised how little
paste you need before you make a big mess! My source for paste
isn't available any more so don't have any suggestions but I'm
sure it's not hard to find sources.
Roy
WA0YMH
--
Mike Hagen, WA6ISP
10917 Bryant Street
Yucaipa, Ca. 92399
(909) 918-0058
PayPal ID "MotDog@..."
Mike@...
<28958739_2035568706459771_6244662275475505152_o.jpeg>
<smdpnplib.png>
<28336400_2021687984514510_1756727514447237923_o.jpeg>
<29244570_2041142825902359_574099065751470080_o.jpeg>
|
Re: Soldering gun or iron
If you plan on ANY rework (removing parts from a scrap rig or parts you soldered in in error) forget the solder sucker in that set. ?I have tried many different ones over the years and found them not effective. ?If you don't want to invest in a real solder vacuum removal device get some solder wick of different sizes and a bottle of rosin flux. ?Dip the wick in the flux, heat it up by the part you are removing and little by little the wick actually wicks up the solder until it is 95% removed. Then with a little heat on the remaining legs of whatever you are removing you can lift it off or out of the holes in the board. ?I have been doing that for years with great success. ?Then remove the excess flux with 91% rubbing alcohol available at any drug store.
Have fun.
Dave K8WPE
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Mar 17, 2018, at 11:35 AM, Fr Richard R via Groups.Io < rickocr2005@...> wrote: Well....... with all said and done..... this is what I finally decided to purchase for my beginning setup:
a simple set up for this beginner...... trying to keep things inexpensive for the time being.
Now to find the time to begin with the build.
thanks to all for your advice.? I am sure I will be looking at past emails in the group as I start!!
73 and God Bless
On Saturday, March 17, 2018, 9:43:42 AM EDT, Craig Thibodeaux < km4yec@...> wrote:
No way I was going to leave this alone…
First advice, don’t listen to any ONE on this list, nor or any other list of any nature…never one….try it yourself…try multiple ways, and stick with what works for you.
So, with that said, here’s mine…
Get a temperature controlled solder station…that doesn’t mean 4 detents with 4 temps….that means 0 degrees to 700+ F with ability to pick your temp….as you always want lowest temperature that will work for the job….similar to radio….lowest watts out needed to do the job…but, with ability just like radio….to blast it when needed…and fast….
I have a solder station that is a replacement for the exact same model….one stolen back in 1995 (along with scope, NTSC generator, freq counter….everything except my fluke….I am still using it daily….from MCM (called something different now)….last I checked they started selling it again, as customers complained when it was discontinued. Cost when I checked last was about $70. ?Tips got good back in the 90’s if you treat them right….I am using a tip from 1995 daily….very fine conical tip….will do almost anything….just slide up the barrel…
I recently bought one of these 2 in one hot air and solder rework stations….862D+….got mine for $49….most go from 60 to 65. ?I broke the soldering iron (shame it worked great, but when it fell out the car, it snapped in half), found out the element isn’t ceramic, but is nichrome….and first replacement isn’t right) ?the hot air works great, temperature tracks with a harbor freight thermocouple (so you know it has to be good)….my little builders group has been playing with this with manual pick and place, that is drivable….use a bicycle pump shell for z-axis, and steer with the T-handle, vacuum is a Tetra-whisper aquarium pump, and add a $30 USB camera (was daily special)…..a tube of MG solder paste, took off the nozzle and replace with smaller diameter nozzle off of empty flux refill bottle, and then used another of those empty bottle nozzles for the syringe pick up tube (luer lock) …..
if you want to see what we are doing go to Facebook Group: wecanhams?
this is latest with hot air/with no rework with pencil:
this one is a short video of the pick and place in action….with USB camera…I have made some improvements like 2 point clamps on the red tube and a recessed pick area...
Important to have a way to monitor the board temperature if you are using hot air or a reflow oven, and run a recognized heat profile…takes a little practice...
<28958739_2035568706459771_6244662275475505152_o.jpeg>
the latest hot air placement with no rework, paste was laid down with syringe, a little dab will do ya...
<29244570_2041142825902359_574099065751470080_o.jpeg>
the rework station bolted down, before accessories added to new home. We are working with a lot of junk and recycled, up cycled junk.
<28336400_2021687984514510_1756727514447237923_o.jpeg>
Drivable Pick and Place in action, see the video on FB group
<smdpnplib.png>
Our little builders group is having a blast with SMD’s….you should, too.?
Craig KM4YEC
On Mar 16, 2018, at 6:36 PM, Michael Hagen < motdog@...> wrote:
Great Place for Solder
and SMD Supplies! 72's Mike, WA6ISP
On 3/16/2018 3:27 PM, Roy Appleton
wrote:
I don't do a lot of SMD projects and so I don't
use a mask just manually apply the solder paste from a syringe
that the paste came in. My advice is that you can't have too
small a nozzle. In the attached photo I use the cone shaped one
because the black one is too big. You'd be surprised how little
paste you need before you make a big mess! My source for paste
isn't available any more so don't have any suggestions but I'm
sure it's not hard to find sources.
Roy
WA0YMH
--
Mike Hagen, WA6ISP
10917 Bryant Street
Yucaipa, Ca. 92399
(909) 918-0058
PayPal ID "MotDog@..."
Mike@...
<28958739_2035568706459771_6244662275475505152_o.jpeg>
<smdpnplib.png>
<28336400_2021687984514510_1756727514447237923_o.jpeg>
<29244570_2041142825902359_574099065751470080_o.jpeg>
|
Re: Low power output on ubitx
Hi Conrad and thanks for the reply.
I just shootgunned and replaced Q90 with a non-smd part and have exactly the same problem.
So replacing Q90 doesn't seem to be the cure.
In reading the posts I see where 12v on the collector of Q90 could be a bad thing. I get 11.7v on the collector,
3.7v on the base, and almost 3v on the emitter. I'm thinking I might have an issue further down the transmit chain.
The 12v I'm seeing on the collectors of Q92,93,96,and 97 are concerning as Glen's measurements has them at 2.8v.
|
Re: Finally finished boxing up my uBitX
#ubitx
Looks great Mike, glad you got the audio fixed. I received my NJM2073D chips last week but haven't needed them yet, maybe never. I really like the compact box you used.
Joel
N6ALT
|
Vince N2AIE
N1AFF - formerly KB1JPW
K9HZ
Michael Aiello
Joel Caulkins/N6ALT