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I would like to know more about the Decals.? I used to make lots of Test Equipment.

We bought packages of rub on decals from the electronics parts store.? They had numbers letters, and common words.

You rubbed them on with pen or hard tipped object and then coated them (like clear finger nail polish).

These water decals?? Do you print them or can you get them with words, numbers and letters?

Do you coat them?

Do I have to worry about printer, I only have B&W Laser, no inkjets.

Thanks for any info.? I looked at Amazon?? Some there but not much detail?

Mike, WA6ISP

Water-slide decals

-- 
Mike Hagen, WA6ISP
10917 Bryant Street
Yucaipa, Ca. 92399
(909) 918-0058
PayPal ID  "MotDog@..."
Mike@...

I'd just configure the relays in the uBitx for 80m (the 80m LPF will pass 160m too),
then add an external LPF when using the uBitx for 160m.
If you have a separate 160m antenna, there is no loss in convenience.

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?Arvo:? ?every mic is different but there are common themes.? ?Lots of mics these days use electret elements which require a load resistor and DC voltage (the Bitx has a resistor and DC source) --- but you'd be wise to LOOK at the schematic of your chosen mic and ascertain how it is built, what it wants, what the internal technology is (electret, crystal, ceramic, dynamic, internal transistor amplifier, etc) ---? ?

On my Bitx? I specificaly provided dc-coupled output to run the standard electret mic, and then used a small electrolytic capacitor (a few uf) to DC isolate to allow a powered CB-style mic to also be used.? ?

And because I do some digital, I put a wall-mount 8-pin RJ45 female there to which the mic or the soundcard system can connect (and there you need the DC isolation because the soundcard output is a TRANSFORMER and will drag the bitx input DC way to ground.? ? )??

That's ham radio -- look at the circuitry, try to figure it out the best you can, give it a whirl and see if your understanding is correct!!?

Gordon

David,
Thanks for the info.

The Bluetooth LE stack portion of the EPS32S might be the way to go. And your i2c “gap” approach is what I used on the ten-tec in the vid.
But controlling from a Browser or voice assistant over WiFi, although a little beyond my comfort level, would be ideal.

Bob
wm6h?

Those look very nice!? Thank you for sharing about the decal edge spray!

Does the PC or cell phone mic need any special circuitry beyond what's already in the BITX40 or ?BitX?

One of the biggest advantages of using Water-slide decals over some sort of label-maker
is that you can print whatever graphics you want, whereas label-makers are limited
in the choice of fonts and generally only print text. ?Here are some photos of another (non Bitx)
project that I recently completed. It is a W8TEE (et al) Modular Transceiver from the?
March 2016 QST article. I opted to use simple graphics instead of text labels, for a change,
to keep the front and rear panels clean-looking.

Note that the light angle was bad for these photos and the backing on the decals
appears much more visible in the photos than it really is in normal viewing
(it looks much better in real life than in these photos).?

Cheers

Michael VE3WMB?

P.S. Before anyone asks ... the red Chinese characters on the front panel are the number 49.
This is a tribute to the use of the rockbound Chinese Forty-9er DC 40m Rig (available on
eBay for $9) that this project is built around. ?I like to make up a logo for my home-built rigs.?

I wouldn't bother them. They must be overwhelmed.... this is the
response I received:

"Hopefully, we will be able to include in the first run before
Christmas. The tracking details will be updated on the Paypal
Transaction after the shipment is done. "

Regards,
Greg, KC8HXO

The answer is that the old connectors are so easy to solder!

At 14/12/2017, you wrote:

I forgot to add that there is one additional step the can be added if you want a very professional-looking result for your water-slide decals. ?After the decals have been installed and before you?
put the clear Krylon coat over the top, you can apply a product to the decals that softens the
decal backing material. I am not sure exactly what it is called but it is available at hobby shops.

What this does is to pretty much eliminate any visible "seam" at the
edge of where you cut out the decal. Once this has dried and has been fixed with clear Krylon
the end result is very close to what you would get if the lettering was printed onto the panel?
via a silkscreening procedure.?

Cheers

Michael VE3WMB?

I'm kind of new to the BITX, but have a BITX40 that works really well.? My question is:? Where can I find the schematic and related data needed to build a uBITX??

Thanks
Rye K9LCJ since 1954

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The smallest connector would be MMCX but you really don't want that (the connector typically used on GPS modules.)

;)?? 73 de Paul (VA6PW, VE6KWI)

Tom et al :?

The decals for my BITX40 were done using Ink-Jet Waterslide Decal paper.?
The end result is similar to decals that we all probably remember putting on plastic
model kits as kids.?

I do this for all of my projects and I found that the cheapest way to do this is to buy the paper
on eBay from China. What you want is the stuff with the clear (transparent backing) that comes in A4 sizing. There are sources for this stuff in letter size from the US but costs to ship to destinations outside of the US?is expensive. Every ink-jet printer sold in North American can handle A4 sized paper so it doesn't matter.?

The procedure is pretty simple. You use your favourite graphic/text editor to create and print a sheet of decals (you want some extras for each decal in case one rips during installation). After printing I recommend letting the ink dry for at least 12 hours. The sheet then gets a?couple of coats of clear Krylon spray to fix it?(remember ink-jet ink is water-soluble) and is allowed to completely dry overnight.?
I also spray the panels that the decals will be installed on with a thin coat of clear Krylon as it gives?
a better result and makes it less likely that you will tear a decal during installation. Everything has to
be very dry before you attempt to install the decals.?

The installation procedure simply involves cutting out the decals and immersing them individually in
a small bowl of warm water for about 20 seconds. Remove the decal from the water with tweezers and then ?then slide off of the paper backing onto?the panel with the help of a tooth-pick,
which can be used to position it.

You then carefully blot out the excess water & air bubbles with a tiny piece of paper towel. ?Repeat for all of the decals and then set it aside to thoroughly dry overnight. Once it is very dry you want to spray a couple of very thin coats of clear Krylon?over the top to keep the decals in place.

You can print in whatever colours your inkjet printer will support, which unfortunately normally doesn't
include white. ?
I usually do several prints on plain paper, cutting out the paper decals and?
moving them around on the drilled front and rear panels to get an idea of placement and making
sure I am happy with the fonts and sizing. The last print is on the actual decal paper, but only
once I am satisfied. As I mentioned previously since you have to print a full sheet of decals anyway
it is a good idea to replicate individual decals a few times on the sheet so you have spares
in case one gets torn during installation. ?

Cheers?

Michael VE3WMB?

P.S. You can get Waterslide Decal Paper with white backing instead of transparent.?
This would work on a smoked plexiglass enclosure, however the end result will look like?
stickers because of the white backing, which will be visible.?

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