There is a also design of BPF with lower losses. Have a look at
Happy bitxing
Bhatnagar
VU2SPF
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?Raduino v1.26 (eliminate carrier burst, improved calibration method) released
Hi, I've just released raduino v1.26, download it from New in this release:
- Rearranged the menu structure, skip menu items that aren't available when related mods are not installed
- Suppress the spurious carrier burst when the radio swithes to TX (tks Dave M0WID)
- For VFO calibration, use multiplicative correction (ppm) for better accuracy over a wide frequency range (tks Jerry KE7ER)
- Improved method for saving/restoring user settings to EEPROM (tks Pavel CO7WT)
Be sure to read the updated instructions at? Happy BitX-ing! 73 Allard PE1NWL
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Re: Use of BitX40 for WSJT-X
Has anyone tried modifying the WSJT-X software to invert the tones so that e.g. JT65 transmissions on LSB are equivalent to ones on USB???
-Dan Fay
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I was wondering what the output of the Raduino is?? In particular is the output enough to drive an SBL-1 or an ADE-1 between 7 and 28Mhz?
Any info greatly appreciated.? ? Ian.
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12V *anywhere* on the Nano will destroy it! though the A... and D... leads are the most susceptible.
D7, with C130, is *supposed* to be a snubber for K1's back-emf on release of PTT, but is only that accidentally. Its top-layer track from the Anode goes to a 'via' down to the bottom-layer ground-plane, making it mainly a polarity-protector if you fit a fuse. I've excised the plane around the via, cleaning that off to create a pad which then takes a short jumper to K1.9. That gives it its intended purpose. On the diagram, delete the ground and place it below C130A (where is that on the board? is it really there?), disconnect the line to C130 and connect that to the *other* side of C130A (= K1.9).
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Reminder - Maker¡¯s Net on Echolink
A new net devoted to Makers (DIYers, homebuilders) has started up on Echolink conference node 9229 (*TECHLINK*).? All those interested in building their own ¡°stuff¡± are invited.? The net is on Sunday and starts at 20:00 UTC (4:00 P.M. EDT, 1:00 P.M. PDT).? The net was established by Michael Beaveridge, VE7KI.? See website at .? All aspects of building and programming related to ham radio are open for discussion.? Please drop in.
Mike
K5ESS
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Just a few minutes from the time you posted the above about hearing some digital, I was pumping some digital at 10 watts, from the bitx, your direction. It makes a fine data radio too. Who knows, you may have been hearing me. At least someone that direction was. Glad you're making progress, and looking forward to working you bitx to bitx in the near future.  ?
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I use M3 Nylon and Brass spacers, nuts, and screws from Amazon and have had absolutely no problems with them. I look for a vendor that allows a selection of both sizes and lengths so they all come from one place and at the same time. Prices are good and service has been fairly quick.
PJH, N7PXY
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Re: Avoid generic subject lines
I second the motion!
--
John - WA2FZW
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Avoid generic subject lines
Peeps, Given the large number of mails, i much like manh others tend to skip mails that have subject lines like "issue" or 'my problem'. It would be best if the subject line describes the problems as best as you can. Thanks, 73, f
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You can do multiband quite simply with juat two sets of filters : 1.? Make on set tunable from 14 mhz to 30 mhz with a ployvaricon or any two section broadcast variable capacitor. 2. The second bandpass filter can tune 3.5 to 7 mhz.? A pair of dpdt relays and air coils should do the trick. - f
On 21 Oct 2017 5:27 pm, "Brent Seres" < brentseres1@...> wrote: Thank you for the advice. I already have a bunch of low pass filter boards from kitsandparts a few years back, so just need the bandpass units. I was looking at the qrp labs board, so that may be the way I go. I do have a signal generator? frequency counter, and scope, so should be able to set things up with that.
Brent
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Ok it's clear now. Thanks for the help I have a lot to learn. When I get a chance I will change that diode and try again.?
On Oct 21, 2017 6:01 AM, "Larry Smith" < 815cpu@...> wrote: Looks like D7 is a snubber diode for the ?relay K1.? There's also a snubber diode D8 on relay K2 (near the blue trimmer RV1).
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Thank you for the advice. I already have a bunch of low pass filter boards from kitsandparts a few years back, so just need the bandpass units. I was looking at the qrp labs board, so that may be the way I go. I do have a signal generator? frequency counter, and scope, so should be able to set things up with that.
Brent
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Hardware modification overview for Raduino software
Hi,
Over the months I have published a number of minimal hardware mods that are required for certain added functionalities in the Raduino software.
I noticed it is sometimes confusing and hard to understand which mod is required for which function. For this reason I've made an overview that hopefully makes things a bit more clear:
The mods themselves are explained in this document:
73 Allard PE1NWL
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Looks like D7 is a snubber diode for the ?relay K1.? There's also a snubber diode D8 on relay K2 (near the blue trimmer RV1).
On Fri, Oct 20, 2017 at 9:38 PM, Barrett O <ogebarrett@...> wrote: I forgot to ground the black wire on the arduino. When I plugged in the power D7 started smoking. I pulled the power grounded the black wire (one next to the brown) then tried again and it started smoking again. Do yall think changing D7 will fix it or did I really screw up? I was trying to find d7 in the circuit diagram to see what it is but it's like looking for waldo.
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The Raduino has a 5V regulator to drop the voltage for the Nano soldered
in.
Raduino takes the same 12V that the BITX40 takes but brings it down to
5V.
By mistake if you connect or a oops moment put 12V on 5V line then its a
goner.
Thats what John is saying!
Raj
At 21/10/2017, you wrote:
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- 12v on the Nano will destroy it.
Thats confusing unless I'm missing something. The wiring diagram
shows +12v to orange wire on raduino and black to ground
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12v on the Nano will destroy it.
Thats confusing unless I'm missing something. The wiring diagram shows +12v to orange wire on raduino and black to ground
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OK, folks - Tuning clicks conquered!
Reading back on earlier messages here, it seems the regulator 7805 deserved some attention. I had fed this via 51E to drop a few volts and 'take some heat', and put a 220uf electrolytic across its output thinking it would absorb the current spikes from the Arduino as it changed state. Given the severity of the spikes as at my last missive, it didn't, so in further experimentation I tried clip-leading a 1000uF across the 7805's input and the clicks disappeared. OK, I thought, that 220uF is doing no good where it is, let's try that on the input. Bingo! Just for good measure I put a 10nF (103) disk - just what was to hand still from the old PC PSU - across the 7805 output anyway.
I've left it at that for the night. It seems the audio is more stable too, and I've heard my first valid signals! Digital stuff down the bottom of the band. Hope is on the upsurge!
73 all, de ZL2DEX
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Hi Brent, ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ?There are one or two boards already out there that used fixed inductors and are set up for Multiband use. WB6DHW BPF Board springs to mind as it is one I tried. It was ok but there was a noticeable difference using toroids. After that I tried a board I designed and etched myself that used QRP Labs Band Pass filters that plugged into headers on the board. There are other commercial options available as well. QRP Labs has a BPF/LPFboard kit and also Sunil sells a G6LBQ BPF Mk1 board using toko style can inductors. Wb6DHW also has a BPF board that uses toroids as well. If test equipment is an issue dont really worry about it too much. I just went with standardvakues as per the build instructions and then just adjusted the filters by hand till I was happy. Another project I did using the same board I sent to a guy that builds kits and he ran the board through with test equipment etc and charged me like $40 to set them up and adjust them. I will say I am no expert on BPFs (not by a mile) just telling you what worked for me. Someone else more educated/experienced will I hope weigh in with better advice than I could give
Ian K3HQL
On Friday, October 20, 2017, 3:48:11 PM CDT, Brent Seres <brentseres1@...> wrote:
I'm looking at getting a second bitx to multiband. I know this wouldn't work for the LPF, but I wondered if anyone had considered or tried making band pass filters using standard value miniature inductors and fixed capacitors. It just seems, if possible, it would be easier and smaller than winding toroids. I built the N3ZI receiver a few years back, and he used them in the front end. Worked well.
Brent
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Dex,
Put a 1K to 10K in the brown lead going to the volume control. That should get rid of the hum. It results from LM386 getting
unstable.
Raj
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I've been struggling with hum. A major contributor was the power supply I've been using (linear 13.8V with seemingly defunct diode in the bridge), so I'm now running from a switcher (ex-USB-DVD external drive). There's still hum intermittently, but I've narrowed that down to stray pick-up from the raduino's CONTROLS loom. I still haven't connected any switches and 'stuff', so the wires as supplied are still there, but tucking them down against the metal (earthed) chassis-tray of my (otherwise plastic) housing has put that in the background. Should all unused lines here be defined with pull-ups at power-up unless otherwise assigned?
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SP Bhatnagar
Allard PE1NWL
Brent Seres/ VE3CUS
Raj vu2zap