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Re: uBITX Questions

 

I am planning on building a uBITX and as I was going through the schematic I noticed that C241 & C245 are labeled 0. is there a proper value for them?

Art
KB8HGW
Re: Multiband bitX40 questions

[email protected]
 

What GPS engine did you use?? Where can I get one for $6.95?? ?The GPS device listed in the QEX article costs a lot more.? Definitely interested in duplicating this.??

Thanks
Greg
KD4VV
Re: 10 turn pot

 

It works! Thanks. Now I just have to determine the optimum value. I guess that is what I get for getting a good deal on ebay. I'm gradually learning how the code works.

73
Brent
Re: 10 turn pot

 

Hi Brent,

an alternative way to fix your problem is perhaps the following change.
Normally, when the pot is at its upper limit, the 'knob' value should read
10000. Fast tuning will normally start when the knob value equals 10000:

at line 1943:
else if (knob == 10000) {

However in your case, perhaps due to poor pot quality, it seems that the
knob value cannot reach 10000, the maximum value it can reach may be just
9999.

You could try to change line 1943 to:
else if (knob > 9998) {

if that still doesn't work, try lower values (9998, 9997, etc. until it
works).

73 Allard PE1NWL

On Wed, October 4, 2017 05:25, Brent Seres wrote:
Hi again Allard

I tried making those changes, no luck. Changing the values does extend the
tuning range, depending on what value I put in (eg?? I can get the radio
to tune to 7105 instead of 7100), but it never kicks in to the 10th steps
on the top end. Things work fine at the bottom. Using my dvm, I have
verified that at the bottom end of the pot, the pot wiper voltage goes
right to zero. At the top end, there is about a 20mv difference between
the 5v pot terminal and the wiper.

I'm brand new to arduino code, so I'm trying to learn, so please forgive
my questions.
Thanks??
Brent
Re: Multiband bitX40 questions

 

Thanks a lot!
Looks really interesting.
Re: BITx40 Block Diagram ?

 

Hi
I think you made a mistake in labeling the filter at the input of the receiver section.
It is a BPF not an LPF
Regards
Lawrernce

On Wed, Oct 4, 2017 at 1:45 AM, Goran VE6GPO <goran.poprzen@...> wrote:
Last spring I did the same for the DX section of VE6AO. Created a block diagram in Visio. Here's the picture:


Hope this helps.
73,
Goran VE6GPO


Re: 10 turn pot

 

Would changing the value in line 1943 to something less than 10000 help?
Re: 10 turn pot

 

Hi again Allard

I tried making those changes, no luck. Changing the values does extend the tuning range, depending on what value I put in (eg? I can get the radio to tune to 7105 instead of 7100), but it never kicks in to the 10th steps on the top end. Things work fine at the bottom. Using my dvm, I have verified that at the bottom end of the pot, the pot wiper voltage goes right to zero. At the top end, there is about a 20mv difference between the 5v pot terminal and the wiper.

I'm brand new to arduino code, so I'm trying to learn, so please forgive my questions.
Thanks?
Brent
Re: BITx40 Block Diagram ?

 

Goran VE6GPO wrote...

Last spring I did the same for the DX section
of VE6AO. Created a block diagram in Visio.
Looks great, but nitpicking a bit, isn't the filter
over on the left actually a bandpass filter and not
a low pass filter?

--
73 Keith VE7GDH
Re: 10 turn pot

 

Thanks
I'll let you know how I make out

73
Brent
Re: preview: Raduino v1.25 with capacitive touch CW keyer

 

Another idea, which you may have already implemented:

Different builders will have different size and placement of the two touch pads,
and thus different capacitance when not being used.
Also, some may be trying insulating tape over the sensors and such.

I'd consider adding a caibration step.
Measure the transition time for each paddle when user is sitting on his hands.
Measure again when fingers are resting naturally on the pads.
Report an error if the difference is too small to give reliable results.
Calculate an optimal time in between the inactive and active transition times,
store that to eeprom.

I'm sure some capacitive sensors out there are continuously auto-calibrating,?
The trackpad on this chromebook certainly does, and I find it infuriating.?


On Tue, Oct 3, 2017 at 05:15 pm, Allard PE1NWL wrote:
Thanks for this idea. I haven't considered that option.
When I have some time I'll try it out to see if it would work. If so it
could save us one I/O pin!
Re: preview: Raduino v1.25 with capacitive touch CW keyer

 

Hi Jerry,

Thanks for this idea. I haven't considered that option.
When I have some time I'll try it out to see if it would work. If so it
could save us one I/O pin!

73 Allard PE1NWL

On Tue, October 3, 2017 22:51, Jerry Gaffke via Groups.Io wrote:
One slight not-so-obvious advantage of this scheme: ??
?? Shorting that keyer paddle to case ground with your body would count as
key-down.
Could well be not-so-obvious advantages to using Allard's third pin scheme
that I am not seeing just yet.

Jerry

On Tue, Oct 3, 2017 at 12:40 pm, Jerry Gaffke wrote:


Not obvious the third pin is required for the capacitive touch keyer.
The dit and dah Nano input pins could also have open-drain outputs,
so drive the pin low and then release it to slowly float back up.
Read from the pin after it is released to see how long it takes
the pullup resistor to get the pin high again.

There should be plenty of web hits on how to do a bidirectional
open-drain
pin under Arduino.
Likely implemented as a tristate output, the output is enabled when
actively driving the pin low.
Re: BITx40 Block Diagram ?

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Goran,

?

Thank you !!

?

73,

Dale? K9NN

?

From: [email protected] [mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Goran VE6GPO
Sent: Tuesday, October 03, 2017 7:46 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [BITX20] BITx40 Block Diagram ?

?

Last spring I did the same for the DX section of VE6AO. Created a block diagram in Visio. Here's the picture:


Hope this helps.
73,
Goran VE6GPO



Re: 10 turn pot

 

sorry should be line 1831, not 1838

On Wed, October 4, 2017 02:02, Allard - PE1NWL wrote:
Hi Brent,

OK, now I understand.

In v1.24, at line 1838:
knob = knob * 10000L / 10230L; // scale the knob range down to 0-10,000

change to:
knob = knob * 10001L / 10230L; // scale the knob range down to 0-10,000

then try again.
If it still doesn't work, perhaps you even need a slightly higher value
(try 10002L, 10003L, etc.)

73 Allard PE1NWL

On Wed, October 4, 2017 01:47, Brent Seres wrote:
Hi Allard

Sorry for the confusion. What I mean is that there seems to be some
resistance left in the pot when you reach the stop at the upper
frequency
end, so the voltage on the wiper of the pot never quite reaches the
point
where the radio makes the big frequency jump. I have the tuning span set
to 100 khz, and the overall range from 7 to 7.3 mhz. When I tune up from
7.0, I get to 7.099700 and can't go any further. Hope that explains it.
I
can fix it doing the anti galloping mod, but just wondered if there was
a
quick software fix. Thanks
Re: 10 turn pot

 

Hi Brent,

OK, now I understand.

In v1.24, at line 1838:
knob = knob * 10000L / 10230L; // scale the knob range down to 0-10,000

change to:
knob = knob * 10001L / 10230L; // scale the knob range down to 0-10,000

then try again.
If it still doesn't work, perhaps you even need a slightly higher value
(try 10002L, 10003L, etc.)

73 Allard PE1NWL

On Wed, October 4, 2017 01:47, Brent Seres wrote:
Hi Allard

Sorry for the confusion. What I mean is that there seems to be some
resistance left in the pot when you reach the stop at the upper frequency
end, so the voltage on the wiper of the pot never quite reaches the point
where the radio makes the big frequency jump. I have the tuning span set
to 100 khz, and the overall range from 7 to 7.3 mhz. When I tune up from
7.0, I get to 7.099700 and can't go any further. Hope that explains it. I
can fix it doing the anti galloping mod, but just wondered if there was a
quick software fix. Thanks
Re: 10 turn pot

 

Hi Allard

Sorry for the confusion. What I mean is that there seems to be some resistance left in the pot when you reach the stop at the upper frequency end, so the voltage on the wiper of the pot never quite reaches the point where the radio makes the big frequency jump. I have the tuning span set to 100 khz, and the overall range from 7 to 7.3 mhz. When I tune up from 7.0, I get to 7.099700 and can't go any further. Hope that explains it. I can fix it doing the anti galloping mod, but just wondered if there was a quick software fix. Thanks
Re: BITx40 Block Diagram ?

 

Last spring I did the same for the DX section of VE6AO. Created a block diagram in Visio. Here's the picture:


Hope this helps.
73,
Goran VE6GPO
Re: A bit OT, blame it on W8TEE

Jack Purdum
 

Mike:

36 hours is pretty good!! Also, you wouldn't have stuck with it that long if you weren't getting some kind of fun out of it.

What's the flicker from? Is it when you update the screen? If so, what happens when you try this:

#define SCREENWIDTH??? 20
#define SCREENHEIGHT??? 4

char spaces[SCREENWIDTH * SCREENHEIGHT + 1];?????? // Need room for NULL
memset(spaces, ' ', SCREENWIDTH * SCREENHEIGHT);?? // Fastest way to set a buffer to one value,
?????????????????????????????????????????????????? // elements 0-79 are spaces
spaces[SCREENWIDTH * SCREENHEIGHT] = NULL;???????? // Now it's one big string; spaces[80] = NULL

At the point where you call LCD.clear(), try

?? // LCD.clear();
?? LCD.print(spaces);

and see what happens. If you see white smoke, disregard...

Jack, W8TEE


From: Mike Bryce <prosolar@...>
To: [email protected]
Sent: Tuesday, October 3, 2017 2:47 PM
Subject: Re: [BITX20] A bit OT, blame it on W8TEE

After endless hours and more diet coke that should be allowed by law, I got the RTC to display on the LCD along with the antenna port.

I have this grandiose idea of when the switch is off (But power still applied to the Nano) that the display would show date/time.
Turn on the switch and the date/time would scoot over to the bottom of the display like I have it here. I'd simply pull a digital pin to ground to let the Nano know if I want clock or switch.
tried for weeks the other night and other than finding out that interrupts aren't the way to go, I went to bed.

The flicker is still a sore in my side. I know the LDC.clear call is the problem.
I've read about using CASE, and haven't tried it yet.

All i do know is after Jack kinda pushed on me about learning to code this thing, I know more about the Ardunio today than last week.

Here's the result of 36 hours of orange compile errors.

I'm Mike, WB8VGE
Re: 10 turn pot

 

On Tue, Oct 3, 2017 at 01:31 pm, Brent Seres wrote:
I changed the span to 100 khz, tuning was much better, but unfortunately, on my pot, it appears that there is just enough resistance left at the upper end? (300 hz) to keep the vfo from jumping to the next 100 hz step.
Sorry, don't understand the 300 Hz at the upper end. Perhaps you mean 7300 kHz?
You said you set the pot-span to 100 kHz. But to what values did you set the min and max frequeny to?
If they are stil at min=7000 and max=7300, then it is normal that 'fast tuning' will occur at the upper end of the pot, until 7300 kHz is reached (and at the lower end, fast tune down until 7000 kHz is reached).

73 Allard PE1NWL
Re: A bit OT, blame it on W8TEE

 

Hi Mike.

What I posted was mainly supposed to be an example of what could be done.
It is part of a larger work in progress, a home sprinkler system built
on a Raspberry Pi 3. (It evolved from an Arduino base because I wanted
wireless access as well as web server access. By the time I would have
added all the parts up, I would have more invested than a RPi3 :-)

Jack, you are correct. It is part of a larger project. I didn't think
it was appropriate to post it all; even as attachments.

Since I've been wanting to put it out on GitHub for a while, I'll add a
public repository and then post a pointer to it here. Hopefully I'll
be able to get it done tomorrow.

73

- Mark N1VQW
83641 - 83660 of 116787