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Date

Re: Mini Pro ATMega2560

 







_._

On Tue, Sep 5, 2017 at 5:52 AM, John Backo via Groups.Io <iam74@...> wrote:
In searching for documentation for the W8TEE VFO, I came up with this for the
ATMega2560 board:

There are two versions of the USB board (which is the one Jack uses). One is
called the "Meduino" and the other is branded as the English Creoqode board.
The Meduino is most often unbranded. Apparently these are the same board;
both were probably made in China; the English board was branded by them.

The documentation on the boards is scarce. I did not find a schematic, but presumably
they are smaller versions of the ATMega2560 A3 board, so the schematics should be
about the same. There are 2 "datasheets" on the web for these boards. But be
careful -- the sheet on the Epalsite Wiki is about the USB version but the
one on the AliBaba site (and others) is about the "Inhaos" version, which has
no USB interface and relies on the USB/Serial converter with the six pin connector.
It is called the "Mega 2560 Core Datasheet"

One of the things to watch out for are the ICSP connections. There are 2 on the USB
board; only one is noted as ICSP. The one near the USB plug is also ICSP but is for the
ATMega16U2. Unless you know what you are doing, don't even think about that connection
because the 16U2 takes a special firmware which interfaces the USB and the RX0/TX0
of the 2560. Messing the firmware up destroys the board.? If you are brave and understand ICSP
you can use the labeled ICSP connector to interface with the2560.

Another thing I noticed is that the crystal oscillators for the 2560 and the 16U2 are the same.
The one for the 16U2 is for the USB interface and presumably is 12 MHz. So the one for the 2560 is
also presumably 12 MHz. Another frequency is possible, but would not make sense for a USB interface.

The Epalsite wiki is about the best documentation on this particular board. It has a nice picture
of the general pinout of the board (which has been duplicated a lot elsewhere). Also the Arduino
site has some nice pinout and layout pictures for the ATMega2560 board.

Most of the available boards are from Wideem991, either from China or the US. The Creoqode board
is available in the UK, of course, but also from some US sources. Prices range from about $US13.00
to $US20.00. This for the same board. Prices seem to be coming down somewhat since they were
generally higher a few weeks ago.

john
AD5YE






Re: Automatic RF Attenuation Mod for Bitx40

 

I've modified my Version 1, changing the coupling between the op amps from AC to DC. ?This is the best performer now but my Version 2 works quite well also. ?If you need a drawing that you can see more clearly, email me and I will send it to you.

-Jim/ND6P


Re: Crystal matching for the uBITX (was uBITX - A reboot of the old BITX)

 

the G3UUR test circuit is all that I have used. but that's a start, after that, using the sweeperino, i build and sweep and tweak the values until an acceptable filter shape emerges. experimentation is a large part of filter design.

On Fri, Jun 23, 2017 at 3:28 AM, Master Ice <special@...> wrote:
Hi Ashhar.
?
I assume you use the G3UUR test circuit?shown in Experimental Methods in RF design or something similar.
If so, when calculating the values of Cm and Lm, did you actually measure and include the stray capacitance of the crystal holder and the wiring to the crystal switch circuitry?
Were the results significant?or are they so minimal in effect as to be ignored?
?
Many thanks for your time
?
Slim Haines G4IPZ
?
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Thursday, June 22, 2017 5:50 PM
Subject: Re: [BITX20] uBITX - A reboot of the old BITX

We have to first characterize the crystal. that's measure their motional inductance and capacitance. i do this using the G3URR's method. it is a very simple two transistor oscillator. after that, i use the same oscillator to measure the frequency of each crystal and sort them into bins.
thanks to the bitx40 production, at least for 12 mhz crystals, i don't have to match them. they are kept prematched in separate pouches. i just dip into one!

- f

?

Virus-free.



Re: uBITX - A reboot of the old BITX

 

alex,?

it is best that you do a receiver signal test. feed in a 100 mv signal into the antenna. and trace it all the way to the crystal filter output.
post the voltages at each point : other side of the lpf, at the mixer output, at the output of the first if, output of thr bandpass etc.
my four builds are very sensitive. somethingis not tuned properly. prolly the vhf bandpass filter.
- f

On 5 Sep 2017 1:54 pm, <pa1fox@...> wrote:
Hi all,

Based on the great description from Ashar I have started to build the uBitx from scratch. Even as far as not using a Raduino, but using standard (Ebay) Arduino Nano board, a standard LCD display from the shelf and a locally bought Adafruit SI5351 board. I have changed some aspects of the design. It's a very nice project to change and work onto. One of the planned changes is to include 6 meters. I expect to need a preamp but that is not my first concern. To suit the tuning range to 52 MHz I have changed the IF to 75 MHz and decided to use tuneable coils for that IF section. The second oscillator is now on 87 MHz to bring the second IF back to 12 MHz.? The first oscillator has a tuning range from 90 to 139 MHz to cover all the HF bands including 6 meters.?

Off course the low pass filter at the input has been redesigned to drop off above 52 MHz. I plan to make four band pass filter sections for the transmitter stage, switched by the software. This will include a dedicated 50 MHz band pass filter. I expect to replace the IRF's by VHF types (RD's). The TX part is not ready yet apart from the bidirectional sections. First I want to have the receiver in working order.

Yesterday the receiver side has started to come to life. My first impressions:

The overall gain is not good yet. Signals of 10 uV are just audible (tested around 7 MHz). I think the circuit around Q70 (audio preamp) needs to be adjusted. I use a BC550 and already needed to increase R50 up to 470k, Biasing of this transistor needs to be further adjusted as the collector voltage is currently down to 2V.. Optimizing this will increase the gain of the audio chain which will also increase the receiver sensitivity.

There are still a LOT of digital spurs received all over all bands, so I need to work on further shielding and grounding of supply leads etc. This will probably become a major part of the time spent to optimize the rig. I might need to use shielded wiring for the I2C connections to the SI5351 and the leads to the LCD.

On my LCD display, the + and - connection of the background leds are swapped. Don't know why but it's good to know there are different connected types out there.

I'm already amazed about the crystal filter. After setting the master calibration and the LSB and USB carrier frequencies, tuning on the band sounds quite nice. Space reservation and plans for an additional 5MHz narrow CW filter are already made.

Beware, on the uBitx INO file, the are some mistakes in the comments. For example the description of the A6 and A7 lines of the Arduino are swapped. A0 is not the PTT line.Took me some time to figure this out as my rig was behaving very strange to the tuning pot which was connected to the keyer input..... I do not have a C++ background but have worked in assembler for PIC and ATMEL processors before. It's a nice learning curve to dig into the software and figure things out. This is definitely necessary in order to do my changes.

My housing is small, about the same size in width and depth as the one used in Ashar's youtube video but about half the height. My copper clad PCB is mounted about half the way in height so I have both sides to build on. This is necessary as I also plan to include a 12V battery back from 10 NiMH penlights in the box also.?
Don't know if it's going to work at the end, but hey, that's part of the hobby.

73, Alex
PA1FOX


T9-11 uBitx

Vince Vielhaber
 

Is there any info on T9, T10 and T11 of the uBitx? All I could find in
Ashhar's write up on it was that transmit inductor details would be coming
soon - unless he was only referring to the missing details of the LPF
inductors and the info I'm looking for is there and I'm just not seeing it
(very possible).

Thanks!
Vince.
--
Michigan VHF Corp.


Re: limited dynamic range of the BITX40

 

I'd like to do a uBitx like rig without relays as they seem large and unreliable, use analog switches and PIN diodes instead, perhaps 1n4007's for the TR switch. ? Lots of folks claiming success with the 1n4007 in that position, including?"ElectronicAntenna Switching" by?Wes Hayward?in?QEX, May 1995.? But worth looking at some of the rants here:
? ??

Specifically this one:

"Since the 1N4007 has been made by probably fifty different companies over the years, and is offered in epoxy, glass, ceramic packages with square, round, and hexagonal die, and with die geometry from less than .040 square to larger than .090 round (and everything between), and may be fabricated by single diffusion, double diffusion, epitaxial, suprataxial or just about any other method a manufacturer chooses, nobody having a 1N4007 really has any idea what he has.The 1N4007 is also available as a die alone, without any package, in several geometries and diffusions.Since its Cj and trr are unspecified, they vary a lot from fabrication to fabrication. The really good 1N4007s made 30 years ago by Motorola in Scottsdale are long gone and now they're all made offshore, to absolutely no standards.This is why I wouldn't generalize about using a 1N4007 as a PIN substitute: Some might work great this way, others absolutely won't."

?
That guy strikes me as a bit cranky and opinionated, but he may have earned the right. ?Apparently worked at Unitrode, and contributed to their "The PIN Diode Circuit Designer's Handbook". ?I'd pick a few different 1n4007's from big name manufacturers on Mouser, stick with whatever brand works best.
As you push toward 30mhz the capacitance across a 1n4007 gets significant, whereas that $0.25 NXP part is good for several GHz and is designed for low distortion and a wide adjustment range as an attenuator.

If you look back to my post of a week or so ago, you will see that I didn't really know what a PIN diode was. ?
So take my opinions with a large grain of salt.

Jerry, KE7ER
?


On Tue, Sep 5, 2017 at 12:54 am, Ashhar Farhan wrote:
yeah. you could even try a 1N4007, at audio frequencies, it will do just as well. These rectifiers have PIN structure too. They work very well as attenuators through the HF range.
?


BITX QSO Night, Sunday, September 10, 7pm Local Time, 7277 kHz in North America, 7177 kHz elsewhere

 

BITX QSO Night, Sunday, September 10, 7pm Local Time, 7277 kHz in North America, 7177 kHz elsewhere

Join us as we make contacts from BITX40 to BITX40 on 7.277 MHz in 40 meters!

This is a worldwide event for BITX40 stations starting at 7pm in each time zone. To participate, call CQ BITX on Sunday, starting at 7pm your local time. The BITX QSO Night continues through the evening and conditions usually improve after sunset, so it is worthwhile to participate later in the evening.

Suggested Best Operating Practices:

Work at QRP power levels unless conditions require more power.
Call and listen for CQ BITX on the hour and every quarter hour.
It is helpful if you call CQ BITX with your callsign, name and location.?
Repeat your callsign a number of times during your CQ BITX and during QSO's.
Start a QSO by confirming the callsign, location, name and signal report of the other operator.
Say the callsign, name and location of the other operator so others can hear.
If the frequency is busy, avoid long conversations.
After your initial QSO is complete, ask if there are any other stations who would like to contact.

Report your QSO's, discuss propagation, noise, signal reports, audio reports, antenna type, etc. in this thread.

This is an undirected, scheduled event.? The BITX QSO Night relies on you to call CQ BITX to initiate contacts with other stations, so warm up that final and transmit a few calls on Sunday evening.? Talk to you then!


Re: Auto RF Attenuator for Bitx40, Version 2

 

Here is the drawing with the 47 ohm resistor added to match the BPF. ?Tested and works well.

Jim/ND6P


Re: low output power

 

I recommend checking R131 and R141 and all the resistors around Q13, Q14.

When I checked the board with IR imager FLIR I found the resistors 141/142/143 getting quite hot. 40-50C, and a few boards have
had failures in these resistors.

Raj

At 05/09/2017, you wrote:

Try checking the main board for any components that are bad. I have heard of some boards being damaged. In all possibility, it's probably the IRF510. If you need any I believe I have some in a parts bin from my father when he was building a QRP cw rig. It's a part from mouser so it should be good. I'll have to find it though my lab is a mess.
Ian Litchfield KD2IXL?

On Sep 5, 2017 2:20 AM, "Nemo" <paulswift6@...> wrote:
These questions and answers al all very interesting. Now I have mine working but only 2 watts RF output when I shout at it that is. Im making an proved mic amp to get a bit more audio drive as it looks a bit low. If I can get 4 watts with 12 volt FC input I will be happy.
but I think the 510 is a bit soft and that's the main reason for a low output.
kind regards
Paul.(HS0ZLQ G0MIH)


Re: New bitx40 build.

 

The large knobs are from the junk box. They were given to me by another ham years ago, in a box of small parts.?


Re: OT

 

Just another aside, I just want to say how much I am enjoying this group. I'm part of a few online ham groups and none of them are as active and helpful to each other as this one is. I appreciate what is going on here and happy that I found such an involved community!
Ian Litchfield KD2IXL

On Aug 29, 2017 9:57 PM, "Arv Evans" <arvid.evans@...> wrote:
8-)





Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone

-------- Original message --------
From: Dexter N Muir <dexy@...>
Date: 8/29/17 6:18 PM (GMT-07:00)
Subject: Re: [BITX20] OT

Dang! Spied and tried "chats" in the sidebar (not obvious, but will have to learn that!) with a reply composed but not sent, and now can't get it back :( Here goes...

I use RSS for alerts (Akregator) and by link to Firefox and website. Not missing functionality or content, can copy and paste at will ... Just that Groups.io doesn't do emoticons (they add expression to communication) or interwork with (the likes of) Messenger for OT Chat (could be a right-click on name?). Haven't tried email client for RSS - that'd mean leaving Thunderbird running where Akregator runs as a daemon.
Still immensely grateful for what we have / get..
73
Dex ZL2DEX


Re: Mini Pro ATMega2560

 

In searching for documentation for the W8TEE VFO, I came up with this for the
ATMega2560 board:

There are two versions of the USB board (which is the one Jack uses). One is
called the "Meduino" and the other is branded as the English Creoqode board.
The Meduino is most often unbranded. Apparently these are the same board;
both were probably made in China; the English board was branded by them.

The documentation on the boards is scarce. I did not find a schematic, but presumably
they are smaller versions of the ATMega2560 A3 board, so the schematics should be
about the same. There are 2 "datasheets" on the web for these boards. But be
careful -- the sheet on the Epalsite Wiki is about the USB version but the
one on the AliBaba site (and others) is about the "Inhaos" version, which has
no USB interface and relies on the USB/Serial converter with the six pin connector.
It is called the "Mega 2560 Core Datasheet"

One of the things to watch out for are the ICSP connections. There are 2 on the USB
board; only one is noted as ICSP. The one near the USB plug is also ICSP but is for the
ATMega16U2. Unless you know what you are doing, don't even think about that connection
because the 16U2 takes a special firmware which interfaces the USB and the RX0/TX0
of the 2560. Messing the firmware up destroys the board. If you are brave and understand ICSP
you can use the labeled ICSP connector to interface with the2560.

Another thing I noticed is that the crystal oscillators for the 2560 and the 16U2 are the same.
The one for the 16U2 is for the USB interface and presumably is 12 MHz. So the one for the 2560 is
also presumably 12 MHz. Another frequency is possible, but would not make sense for a USB interface.

The Epalsite wiki is about the best documentation on this particular board. It has a nice picture
of the general pinout of the board (which has been duplicated a lot elsewhere). Also the Arduino
site has some nice pinout and layout pictures for the ATMega2560 board.

Most of the available boards are from Wideem991, either from China or the US. The Creoqode board
is available in the UK, of course, but also from some US sources. Prices range from about $US13.00
to $US20.00. This for the same board. Prices seem to be coming down somewhat since they were
generally higher a few weeks ago.

john
AD5YE


Re: low output power

 

Try checking the main board for any components that are bad. I have heard of some boards being damaged. In all possibility, it's probably the IRF510. If you need any I believe I have some in a parts bin from my father when he was building a QRP cw rig. It's a part from mouser so it should be good. I'll have to find it though my lab is a mess.
Ian Litchfield KD2IXL?

On Sep 5, 2017 2:20 AM, "Nemo" <paulswift6@...> wrote:
These questions and answers al all very interesting. Now I have mine working but only 2 watts RF output when I shout at it that is. Im making an proved mic amp to get a bit more audio drive as it looks a bit low. If I can get 4 watts with 12 volt FC input I will be happy.
but I think the 510 is a bit soft and that's the main reason for a low output.
kind regards
Paul.(HS0ZLQ G0MIH)


Re: Using a tuner with a Bitx40

 

Emtech ZM-2 Just a fantastic little tuner, fun build too just not auto.

?

?


Re: limited dynamic range of the BITX40

Weddig, Henning-Christof
 

Concerning control loop instabilities:

my post was just a general warning to possible instabilities, as i know from experience when working in my old QRL about 30 years ago on such problems within a commercial main maritime receiver (Hagenuk RX 1001M 10 kHz to 30 MHz).
In contrast to its predecessor (RX1001) the actuator was placed in the module in front of the filterbank (xtal filters of various bandwidth, minimum 6 pole filters).
In this configuration the AGC control loop got unstable if narrow bandwidth filters were used. The cure was a so called lead lag filter in the AGC control loop, eliminating the extra negative phase shift by partly introducing a positive phase shift, but also affecting the high frequency ripple of the filtered AGC voltage.

I am not an expert in control theory but just wanted to show that to construct a fast attack acting and slow decay (with a hang time in between of severals 100 ms not only some milliseconds) is not an easy task!!
In addition this type of control loop is non-linear or should I say "dB-linear"?
Henning
DK5LV



Am 04.09.2017 um 18:40 schrieb Jerry Gaffke via Groups.Io:

I like the idea of a PIN attenuator between Q3 and C33.
Won't disturb the BPF.
The 4dB pad at R37,38,39 should help clean up impedance variations from the PIN attenuator into the demodulator.
Perhaps a single PIN diode is sufficient if Q3 can drive the varying load presented by the PIN without too much trouble.
The audio derived AGC control signal to the PIN attenuator should attack quickly, but hang around for milliseconds.
Delays through a 3khz crystal filter should be on the order of a few hundred microseconds.
I'd be surprised if that crystal filter delay made the AGC unstable when the attenuator is placed in front of the filter.
But then I'm often surprised.
Henning's insight that the audio pre-amp is severely limiting the receiver's dynamic range
is well worth pursuing.
Here's an Avago app note on PIN diode attenuators:
And one from Skyworks:
An interesting part:
Jerry, KE7ER
On Mon, Sep 4, 2017 at 06:45 am, Henning Weddig wrote:
of course a RF attenautor (e.g. PIN diode in Pi configuration or
even better using two diodes anti-series in the series lag and the
other two in the parallel leg, see AVAGO app notes) will help.
BUT: please put this circuitry AFTER the xtal filter!!? It is of no
good use to put it in front of the RF input. Not onnly because the
xtal filter will give a? extra time delay which may and will cause
instabilities in the closed control loop!!


Re: uBITX - A reboot of the old BITX

 

Hi all,

Based on the great description from Ashar I have started to build the uBitx from scratch. Even as far as not using a Raduino, but using standard (Ebay) Arduino Nano board, a standard LCD display from the shelf and a locally bought Adafruit SI5351 board. I have changed some aspects of the design. It's a very nice project to change and work onto. One of the planned changes is to include 6 meters. I expect to need a preamp but that is not my first concern. To suit the tuning range to 52 MHz I have changed the IF to 75 MHz and decided to use tuneable coils for that IF section. The second oscillator is now on 87 MHz to bring the second IF back to 12 MHz. ?The first oscillator has a tuning range from 90 to 139 MHz to cover all the HF bands including 6 meters.?

Off course the low pass filter at the input has been redesigned to drop off above 52 MHz. I plan to make four band pass filter sections for the transmitter stage, switched by the software. This will include a dedicated 50 MHz band pass filter. I expect to replace the IRF's by VHF types (RD's). The TX part is not ready yet apart from the bidirectional sections. First I want to have the receiver in working order.

Yesterday the receiver side has started to come to life. My first impressions:

The overall gain is not good yet. Signals of 10 uV are just audible (tested around 7 MHz). I think the circuit around Q70 (audio preamp) needs to be adjusted. I use a BC550 and already needed to increase R50 up to 470k, Biasing of this transistor needs to be further adjusted as the collector voltage is currently down to 2V.. Optimizing this will increase the gain of the audio chain which will also increase the receiver sensitivity.

There are still a LOT of digital spurs received all over all bands, so I need to work on further shielding and grounding of supply leads etc. This will probably become a major part of the time spent to optimize the rig. I might need to use shielded wiring for the I2C connections to the SI5351 and the leads to the LCD.

On my LCD display, the + and - connection of the background leds are swapped. Don't know why but it's good to know there are different connected types out there.

I'm already amazed about the crystal filter. After setting the master calibration and the LSB and USB carrier frequencies, tuning on the band sounds quite nice. Space reservation and plans for an additional 5MHz narrow CW filter are already made.

Beware, on the uBitx INO file, the are some mistakes in the comments. For example the description of the A6 and A7 lines of the Arduino are swapped. A0 is not the PTT line.Took me some time to figure this out as my rig was behaving very strange to the tuning pot which was connected to the keyer input..... I do not have a C++ background but have worked in assembler for PIC and ATMEL processors before. It's a nice learning curve to dig into the software and figure things out. This is definitely necessary in order to do my changes.

My housing is small, about the same size in width and depth as the one used in Ashar's youtube video but about half the height. My copper clad PCB is mounted about half the way in height so I have both sides to build on. This is necessary as I also plan to include a 12V battery back from 10 NiMH penlights in the box also.?
Don't know if it's going to work at the end, but hey, that's part of the hobby.

73, Alex
PA1FOX


Re: limited dynamic range of the BITX40

 

yeah. you could even try a 1N4007, at audio frequencies, it will do just as well. These rectifiers have PIN structure too. They work very well as attenuators through the HF range.

- f

On Tue, Sep 5, 2017 at 4:05 AM, Jerry Gaffke via Groups.Io <jgaffke@...> wrote:
Reducing that front end RF gain could well help.
But Henning is suggesting that there's more than 15 or 20 dB at stake here:
? > ?a dynamic range of 75 dB is possible, due to the audio preamp this range will be only 43.5 dB now!! We are loosing 31.5 dB of dynamic range!

I'm by no means an RF kind of guy. ?
But I like his argument, and I like the idea of a PIN diode attenuator for AGC between the crystal filter and modulator.
That NXP BAP64Q quad PIN diode device is $0.25 in quantity, $0.50 for a single unit from Mouser.
With that AGC in place perhaps we can leave the first RF amp as is, so the rx still works with a poor antenna.?

Jerry


On Mon, Sep 4, 2017 at 01:12 pm, Ashhar Farhan wrote:
The bitx was sketched on a flight. I didnt know muchP about dynamic range. In retrospect, the rf amp severely compromises the dynamic range. Someone should measure the iip3 with and without the rf amp.
I thought of redoing the bitx design for Bitx40 but in the end, decided to stick to the original for it to be called a bitx.
It is a sum of many tradeoffs and lazy choices (like the LM386).
- f



Re: low output power

 

These questions and answers al all very interesting. Now I have mine working but only 2 watts RF output when I shout at it that is. Im making an proved mic amp to get a bit more audio drive as it looks a bit low. If I can get 4 watts with 12 volt FC input I will be happy.
but I think the 510 is a bit soft and that's the main reason for a low output.
kind regards
Paul.(HS0ZLQ G0MIH)


Re: Bitx40 3v

 

Hi Keith. That's goo as that is what I set it to. As for my call singe it's HS0ZLQ and G0MIH
The radio is working I just need more power with a 12 volt DC input.


Re: New bitx40 build.

Alan Jones
 

Hi Randall,
Your homebrew station looks great!
Where are you getting your large knobs from?
Were they in your junk box or did you order them online?

I also really like your 40 Meter amplifier.
Keep up the good work!

Al, N8WQ
n8wq.com

On Mon, 04 Sep 2017 22:00:23 -0400, RCC WB5YYM <curtis03@...> wrote:

Bent the cover today and checked it for fit. I couldn't resist sliding the "junk" over to one side of the bench to see how the home brew station would fit together. I also had an issue with the output jumping up and down, and upon taking a further look, I found the wiper on RV136 only held by the "crimp" on one side. When I touched it, it all came apart. I carefully bent up the side that was originally unattached, placed the wiper back on, and pushed the "crimp" back down. All is good again, and I have it detuned to 1 watt out, to drive the pair of irf510's. Not finished, but getting closer. ?The leaning display is driving me nuts. Got to do some fixing on that. Thinking about duct taping my head over to one side, or possible putting one side of my chair on a couple of books.?

_._,_._,_

?