Re: A little ardunio help
Do you have MorseCode.h in the same folder with the BDOSoftwareRe10106.ino file?
If not try that!
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guys...
According to DHL, my bitx40 won't be here for a week or so.
So, I'm playing the ardunio IDE.
downloaded the file BDOSoftwareRe10106.
Have the right files in the libraries.
Although I don't have the correct Ardunio connect, I feel it should at leas compile.
It won't
I get this message:
Arduino: 1.8.3 (Windows 7), Board: "Arduino/Genuino Mega or Mega 2560, ATmega2560 (Mega 2560)"
C:\Users\User\Downloads\B40SoftwareRel0106\B40SoftwareRel0106.ino:29:59: fatal error: MorseCode.h: No such file or directory
?#include "MorseCode.h"??????? // Part of this project file
?????????????????????????????????????????????????????????? ^
compilation terminated.
Multiple libraries were found for "Rotary.h"
?Used: C:\Users\User\Documents\Arduino\libraries\Rotary
?Not used: C:\Users\User\Documents\Arduino\libraries\Rotary-master
exit status 1
Error compiling for board Arduino/Genuino Mega or Mega 2560.
This report would have more information with
"Show verbose output during compilation"
option enabled in File -> Preferences.
****
So what am i doing wrong?
Mike, WB8VGE
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Hi Jonathan,
thanks for your follow-up. I am sorry you are still having roblems with the pop.
I have just discovered I marked the wrong pin on my circuit diagram, I reported pin8 as the power input in place of pin 6. I am attaching the updated schematic.
Pin 1 should go to ground and not pin 8 to +12V via the 2N3904 collector. I hope the LM386 is still OK as I do not understand why it should not return from mute.
Please let me know. Thanks and 73
Gian
I7SWX
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I just tested my r141 on all 3 bitx radios I have all are 10ohm but I will change them for 1/2watt resisters I up graded the pa heatsink today as seen on my photo I not planing on running more than 13v from battery's when portable?
On 18 Aug 2017 02:17, "Jerry Gaffke via Groups.Io" <jgaffke= [email protected]> wrote: A 1206 surface mount resistor like that is typically rated for 1/4 watt.? Might seem high, as a 1/4 watt axial lead resistor is considerably larger.? But the 1206 can can better dump heat into the board.? I'd replace R141 with a 1/2 watt part, either surface mount or axial lead. ? If surface mount, it will need good thermal contact with the board to really dissipate 1/2 watt.
?
I find the easiest way to remove two terminal surface mount R's and C's is to use two soldering irons.? A Sot23 package like all those npn's can be removed by heating and prying up the pins with an xacto knife one at a time.? More pins than that and I go to a hot air gun, I've got a 250 watt Weller 6966C, built for use around electronics.? You can probably get by with an "Embossing Heat Gun" at under $20 and do the same thing.? I shield nearby parts with tinfoil before going after one with hot air.? I've heard that Chip Quik works well, it effectively replaces the solder holding down a part with solder that has a much lower melting point so it is easy to pull off at moderate heat. ?
On Thu, Aug 17, 2017 at 05:29 pm, Keith VE7GDH wrote:
I took a close look at R141 and it did look burnt. I measured about 60 ohms across it, but it was fluctuating. I don't yet have any SMD resistors, so I replaced it with an axial resistor and got it going again.
It was good timing that my (el cheapo) hot air soldering station just showed up. My very first use of it was to remove R141. I put some Kapton tape each side of it to try and prevent disturbing adjacent components. R141 came off in the two pieces. I went back to a regular soldering iron and some wick and soaked up all the solder on the pads. I then shortened and bent the leads on a 1/4W 10 ohm resistor to get them to fit on the pads. Does anyone know how many watts the original R141 was rated for?
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Thanks for reply all.
I have the equivalent drive level resistor. ?The procedure call for pre setting the IRF 510s to 50 ma each, and then adjusting the drive level pot until the increase in voltage slows down. ?This should occur at about 12 watts. ? Then back down about a half watts. ?Originally I was able to see about 15 watts if I kept going
but now that point seems to have dropped to about 10 watts, so I back down about 1/2 watt from there. (measured on a scope and then using formula)
I guess I have to start measuring voltages on all the transistors.
Andy
Km4TRT
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Here is my solution to the PTT Mute and the addition of a Linear
Amp keying circuit.
I just dead bugged the H11AV1 Opto coupler on top of the LM386
to make the connections as short as possible.
Any Opto coupler with an NPN transistor should work, I just had
a slug of these GE H11Av1’s in my junk box.
Good Luck…see you on 40. KC5RT Fred.
?
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From: [email protected]
[mailto:[email protected]] On Behalf Of Ted Doell
Sent: Friday, August 18, 2017 2:09 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [BITX20] Pop mute
?
This is the version I used. I see when I have another look it is version3
anyway it seems to work for me. circuit as below.
I added at the junction of the 1k resistor and the emiter of the 2N3906 a
22mf Tantalm and a 103 ceramic capacitor and feed the 12v via a 100ohm
resistor.
Ted
?
On 18/08/17 6:37 PM, Rajendran Mayilsamy wrote:
Hi Ted,,
Pl post the Version 5 circuit diagram..Your HB assembly nice construction...tnx
n 73 de Raj ,VU2SMM
?
On Fri, Aug 18, 2017 at 11:22 AM, Ted Doell <ted@...> wrote:
Hi all
I have made up and installed version5, now all I hear is the relay clicks.
Photo of board attached.
Ted
ZL1BQA
?
?
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Could you post a drawing please?
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On Aug 18, 2017, at 03:08, Ted Doell < ted@...> wrote:
This is the version I used. I see when I have another look it is
version3 anyway it seems to work for me. circuit as below.
<nkpnlcmibkchkphb.png>
I added at the junction of the 1k resistor and the emiter of the
2N3906 a 22mf Tantalm and a 103 ceramic capacitor and feed the 12v
via a 100ohm resistor.
Ted
On 18/08/17 6:37 PM, Rajendran
Mayilsamy wrote:
Hi Ted,,
Pl post the Version 5 circuit diagram..Your HB assembly nice
construction...tnx n 73 de Raj ,VU2SMM
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QRP Labs 5W CW transceiver kit
None BiTX,
but hope it is of interest to others if it hasn’t been mentioned elsewhere.
QRP Labs are in the process of kitting up a new Mono Band 5W CW Kit for the HAM Bands.
A great feature for those with minimal test gear or field use is:- B.I.T.E.
Often found on commercial / Military equipment.
Built
In
Test
Equipment
For alignment of the RF & AF Stages.
Preliminary Manual can be viewed:-
No commercial connection etc, etc.
Other than a happy, past customer.
regards Alan
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p.s. no extra bits really needed for my unit, transistors just what was to hand (scrapped from a PC PSU). If Ted has put in extra caps it would likely be to keep it muting a few milliseconds after PTT release - right, Ted?
73 ...
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Hi Ted and all ... back from having my tea ... that V3 circuit is my choice, *BUT* connect to pin 3 (across the input instead of pin 7. Pops all gone, PTT press *and* release!
73 ...
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This is the version I used. I see when I have another look it is
version3 anyway it seems to work for me. circuit as below.
I added at the junction of the 1k resistor and the emiter of the
2N3906 a 22mf Tantalm and a 103 ceramic capacitor and feed the 12v
via a 100ohm resistor.
Ted
On 18/08/17 6:37 PM, Rajendran
Mayilsamy wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Hi Ted,,
Pl post the Version 5 circuit diagram..Your HB assembly nice
construction...tnx n 73 de Raj ,VU2SMM
|
Hi Ted,,
Pl post the Version 5 circuit diagram..Your HB assembly nice construction...tnx n 73 de Raj ,VU2SMM
On Fri, Aug 18, 2017 at 11:22 AM, Ted Doell <ted@...> wrote: Hi all
I have made up and installed version5, now all I hear is the relay clicks.
Photo of board attached.
Ted
ZL1BQA
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Hi all
I have made up and installed version5, now all I hear is the relay clicks.
Photo of board attached.
Ted
ZL1BQA
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Hi Dexter,?
Which version of Gian's schematic were you changing? My add-in board with his mod is currently at "Trial 5."
Whatever you suggest, I will try tomorrow after work. I want to remove this click as I am a headphone user when we go portable due to people talking.
Thanks,
Jonathan, N0JMS?
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Hi Jonathan
Read later entries here - search on Gian's call or "PTT". My contribution: Gian's circuit except wire to pin 7 goes to pin 3. Try it, you'll like it.
73 de ZL2DEX ...
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Buonasera Gian,
I did not have any luck with this mod. While I tried the previous versions as well, the clicks remain throughout testing.
I did get the LM386 to mute properly by using a modified version of your Rev 5 schematic. I ran a 1n4148 from +12 to pin 6 of the amp, and used the collector of the 2n3906 through a 1n4148 to bring pin 8 of the amp high on PTT. The amp did not return from mute after PTT was released, however.
It should be noted my radio is up do date with Allard's code and hardware mods at Raduino v1.20.1.
Hopefully this will give some insight for the next steps.
Grazie,
Jonathan, N0JMS
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R136 is "drive level". Over-driving can produce distortion at the driver stage (cause of "barely intelligible audio", likely mistaken as FMing?), and if it continues can burn out the driver's emitter resistor. For the BITX40 this is R141, 10 ohms. It seems the original surface-mount resistor's power rating is too close to the maximum normal drive level, so some users are experiencing this burn-out. There's not that much actual material to it, so it won't give off a significant smoke or smell as it fails, therefore there's not likely to be much warning ... The BITX's Final is Class A, hence the hefty quiescent current. The Hendrix may be Class B or an AB, so likely to be more efficient that way. Summary: don't push it - these wee devices ain't 4CX250Bs! ? ;)
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Re: Multibanding a Bitx40 questions
Thank you Giuseppe, I will have a look at the code and see if I can make it work for me.
--
Mike VK3XL
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I had similar audio reports on a BITX40 kit.? What I believe fixed the problem was to adjust R136.? If you can find the comparable variable resistor on your kit, it may help.
It is at the base of Q14, near the bottom of the schematic here: http://www.hfsigs.com/bitx40v3_circuit.html
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The BitX40 with no mods is ready to be powered...except for the microphone. Today I worked on the PTT bar. A parallel pair of switches should take care of me pushing on one end of the bar or the other without any ill effects. I think I had rather work on metal than pvc. I'll try to get the mic operational, do a wiring check, then power on in the next few days.  
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Giancarlo - I7SWX
Alan de G1FXB
