Re: Raduino v1.10 with CW functionality released
Move the wire from p3-1 over to p3-2 and change the sketch to point to A6 vice A7 and retry. ? v/r Fred W4JLE ?
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From: BITX20@groups.io [mailto:BITX20@groups.io] On Behalf Of Dragan 4O4A
Sent: Monday, May 15, 2017 17:41
To: BITX20@groups.io
Subject: Re: [BITX20] Raduino v1.10 with CW functionality released ? I tried both 10k lin and 20k 10-tur pot. No luck. I guess I burned Nano somehow. :)
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Pacific Antennas (QRP Kits) is still selling the kit version of the bitx-20 complete with case. ANG
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Re: Almost finished, for now...
Just remove C91, C92, don't bridge anything. ?I would do it using two fine tipped soldering pencils, one on each end of the cap. ? Do you have 0.1uF caps at both ends of your that tuning pot signal? ?One at the pot between gnd and the wiper, another cap between those same two nodes, but at the Raduino end of the cable. ?Maybe a third from gnd to 5v at the pot. Guys on the AT_Sprint yahoo group were thinking the Si5351 might be responsible for some of their SodaPop birdies. ?Would be nice if somebody with an Si570 or DDS style VFO could do an A/B test for us, tell us if the birdies go away when the Si5351 is not used. ?Could be them birdies come form the Nano or the LCD display, need some way to avoid having that confuse things. ?Perhaps one Nano running both an Si5351 and an Si570, a coax from the Bitx40 main board can be plugged into one or the other? ?Be able to cut power to the Si5351/Si570 that is not used.
wondering if some?
On Mon, May 15, 2017 at 02:43 pm, Brian D. K2BRZ wrote: I updated to Raduino v1.11 and it is working pretty good. The birdies aren't gone but minimized fairly well. A couple of things I noticed, though: 1.) The Tuning Range doesn't always stay where I set it. Being that I'm using a 10-turn pot, I really don't mind it, but the tuning can get a little flaky sometimes. 2.) The USB is very low. I know removing C91 & C92 will help with that, but how do I remove them? Just heat the solder and remove them? Do I need to bridge the connections or anything?
?
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Re: Almost finished, for now...
I updated to Raduino v1.11 and it is working pretty good. The birdies aren't gone but minimized fairly well. A couple of things I noticed, though: 1.) The Tuning Range doesn't always stay where I set it. Being that I'm using a 10-turn pot, I really don't mind it, but the tuning can get a little flaky sometimes. 2.) The USB is very low. I know removing C91 & C92 will help with that, but how do I remove them? Just heat the solder and remove them? Do I need to bridge the connections or anything?
Still no contacts yet, but I haven't been trying to hard, mostly just listening and waiting to pounce... Brian, K2BRZ
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Re: Raduino v1.10 with CW functionality released
I tried both 10k lin and 20k 10-tur pot. No luck. I guess I burned Nano somehow. :)
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No need to touch sketch. You can change settings with function button.
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Re: Almost finished, for now...
My apologies. I meant Brian.
Marco IZ0QRF
On Sunday, May 14, 2017 12:16 AM, Brian D. K2BRZ <kd2iog@...> wrote:
Yup, that worked. I also put in the function button and got it working. I'm loving this radio now! Still have yet to make a contact but am more comfortable with the radio and happy that my skills haven't completely disappeared. Will probably update to 1.10 but am pretty happy where I'm at. My (capacitance) hat is off to you all! Wish your families a happy Mother's Day. Brian, K2BRZ
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Re: Almost finished, for now...
Hi Zeff,
as
for the Bourns potentiometer, mine was some light blu stuff marked
Bourns ,made in Mexico , pretty suspicious since I bought two of those
on Banggood. Long
story short, one worked fine for a little while then went berserk to
the point of being unusable (frequency rolling up and down randomly) so I
replaced it with the other new one that proved to be just dead on arrival.
So
I went back to the original simple pot coming with the kit that works
just fine. I am now looking for some genuine Bourns pot or equivalent.
Regarding
the wiring, on mine it is marked on the pot body, yours could be
diffeernt so just make sure to identify the cursor and then hook it to
the violet wire. Use a multimeter and check that the resistance
increases and decreases smoothly when turning the pot and stops changing
when reaching either ends.Then as for the jellow and green leads
,solder them to the other? terminals of the pot .If you are lucky (50%
probability) the frequency will increase as you turn clock wise if not
invert them and it will be OK.
I repurposed both a Baofeng mike and a ex military handset. I used a 4 pin mike connector (one common for the ground , one for the loudspeaker, one for the mike capsule and one for the PTT line).
I am still in the painful process of learning how to update the firmware.
Regards
Marco I0QRF
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With the v1.09 can you replace the sing turn pot with a 10 turn pot without making any changes to the sketch?
On Sun, May 14, 2017 at 4:26 AM, Allard PE1NWL <pe1nwl@...> wrote: Since the introduction of RIT in v1.09, there's no need anymore to set the
base frequency. You only need to set the tuning range.
When the pot is max or min position, fast tuning will occur and the whole
tuning range will shift up or down.
The latest base frequency will be memorized in EEPROM.
Just try it out and you will understand how it works.
73 Allard PE1NWL
On Sun, May 14, 2017 09:20, terryhugheskirkcudbright via Groups.Io wrote:
> i have ordered a bitx40 but not yet here. i have also ordered a 10 turn
> pot.
>
> in the settings menu it appears that you can set up the range to 200 but
> how do you set up the base freq = 7.00
>
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All that old Yahoo stuff has been copied to this forum on groups.io Here's the very first post from early 2004: ?/g/BITX20/message/1 Jerry
On Mon, May 15, 2017 at 01:34 pm, Al Duncan VE3RRD wrote: Also check the old posts and info on the original Yahoo Group at ? ?
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Also check the old posts and info on the original Yahoo Group at ?
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Re: Raduino_v1.11 released
I've used the NewTone library (https://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=143940.0) to directly drive a small 1.5" speaker after the LM386 as a sidetone and it works fine.
Jack, W8TEE
From: Jerry Gaffke via Groups.Io <jgaffke@...>
To: BITX20@groups.io
Sent: Monday, May 15, 2017 10:49 AM
Subject: Re: [BITX20] Raduino_v1.11 released
FOr a sidetone sounder, I'll probably just drive a passive piezo transducer (under $1 USD) through a resistor selected for an appropriate volume. ?There are active piezo buzzers too, but a passive one allows different tone frequencies to be used for different audio cues when using menus and such. ? The ideal solution would be to have the LM386 on all the time, perhaps use that M1/M2 relay (or a FET switch) in front to select the sidetone when transmitting. ?These rigs are in various states now with thump fixes and AGC and such, so a bit problematic. ?Also, would require hacks to the main Bitx40 board, a barrier for some. ?Farhan has an interesting solution on the uBitx: ? ? Jerry, KE7ER
On Mon, May 15, 2017 at 06:29 am, Allard PE1NWL wrote:
Funny, I had exactly the opposite problem, initially.
Sidetone was cut down during first second, after one second it was OK.
Probably because the LM386 remains on for some time until the 470uF
electrolytic is discharged.
I could improve it by adding the 47 ohms series resistor, to create some
seperation between the two outputs. It's not a very elegant solution but
it worked on my radio. ?
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I doubt even Farhan knows when any remaining issues will be resolved on the uBitx. ?But you are welcome to do a scratch build and help with the process. The Bitx started out as a 20m rig, as the name of this group suggests, and was very successful. ?Also successful as a 17m rig. ?Why do you think it might have a gain issue??
On Mon, May 15, 2017 at 12:33 pm, Trent Trent wrote: Does anyone know when the uBitx comes out and doesnt the current bitx have poor gain on 20m due to the transistors
?
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I'd be interested in seeing what kind of noise or spurs it puts out, too. Wondering if it will meet FCC regs. 73 de bill
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Does anyone know when the uBitx comes out and doesnt the current bitx have poor gain on 20m due to the transistors
On 16 May 2017 4:47 am, "Jerry Gaffke via Groups.Io" <jgaffke= yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote: Building from scratch could be fun. But easy enough to mod the Bitx40 for use on 20 meters.? Only changes required would be the bandpass filter at L1,L2,L3 and the output lowpass filter at L6,L7, just borrow coil and cap values from old 20 meter versions.? Also need a minor hack to the Raduino sketch to move the VFO frequency.? Alternately, sit on your hands till the all-band uBitx comes out.
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Ive done some more fiddling and im not sure i understand whats wrong here. I get 2-3 watts output when i blow into my mic, while talking i basically get zero even when yelling into it.
I can *sort of* adjust my rv1 to ~100ma or so but its behaving like this.hit transmit (into dummy load), getting 0 current on my dmm hooked up to the pa power line till i turn the pot almost fully ?counter clockwise, it goes up to ~500ma or so and i can gently turn it down until the current reads between 1-200ma, unkey, key up again and it read no current. i have to key up and turn rv1 fully ccw again until it goes above 300ma. If i leave this adjusted at 300ma i can reliably unkey and key back up and get current (300ma) flowing on the pa power cable. if i adjust it to under 300 or so, say i adjust it to 200ma and key down, when i key back up it does not pull 200ma again, it pulls 0. It also seems when left at 300ma, 2/10 times i keyup it does not pull current, the rest it does.?
Even when it is pulling current and i yell into the mic, i get no fluxuation of current.
anybody have some suggestions to diagnose? Ive tested all the transistors i can see in the schematic along the TX path and they all seem good and have power coming out the right legs. (though about 1v lower then the sheet by k7age with his voltages on it).
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Building from scratch could be fun. But easy enough to mod the Bitx40 for use on 20 meters. ?Only changes required would be the bandpass filter at L1,L2,L3 and the output lowpass filter at L6,L7, just borrow coil and cap values from old 20 meter versions. ?Also need a minor hack to the Raduino sketch to move the VFO frequency. ?Alternately, sit on your hands till the all-band uBitx comes out.
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Glad to hear that. Just for better understanding: What sketch version were you using before you upgraded to v1.10? 73 Allard PE1NWL
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Thank you Leonard! Very useful information indeed. 73 ?Mike 4X1LM
There are files on the bitx20smd at /g/BITX20/files/M0ZHN%20smdBITX This was available about 6 years or so ago but now you would have to use the gerber files to have a board made. It was basically an exciter only. You can see it at ? The version 4 was the actual production version. It couls be used on any band as the vfo, bandpass filter and PA were separate to the main board. Leonard
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Thank you Arv :) My understanding is ?that the BITX, been a QRP radio and very much depended on the performances of the antenna, could be more satisfactory on the 20 Meters band, as the antennas for this frequency are considerably smaller, and much of us, the hams, are not very welcome among our nigbores anyway.... So, is there a SMD 20 Meter BITX, assembled or not I can buy?? reading most of the posts, I couldn't find any discussion about the trend to stick to the 40 Metres band BITX.
73 ?Mike 4X1LM
The original BITX20 is getting rather old.? After several thousand posts
there may not be much more to be said about that design.? There are
still kits available for BITX-xx transceivers, but many who built it did so
from junk-box parts which allowed a great many modifications, some of
which have been included in present day BITX-xx builds and products.
If you scroll back into the older posts on the discussion group you will
find those older BITX-xx related posts.?
Single-band BITX transceivers have been built for almost all the HF and
LF bands.? If you are interested in building your own BITX from scratch,
you can benefit from learning to use a Spice Circuit Simulator ( many use
LTSpice, free from Linear Technology Systems) as a way to visualize how
each individual stage of the BITX actually works, and to play what-if
games with the design.?
Arv? K7HKL
_._
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Dragan 4O4A
bill
Allard PE1NWL