>Calculator shows it should be 22.4 uH.?

I agree, Toroids.info doesn't lie! ?So is there some inductance amplifying affect from the other two parallel windings? ?Can anyone else with a spare 8:8:8 transformer lying around do a reading?

开云体育

开云体育

> ?Having ? If (knob!=old_knob) ? as an outside conditional would avoid executing some code, but that doesn't buy more than a few microseconds.?

It also wouldn't work. ?If the knob is hard left or hard right, then we scan down or up by 10khz continuously once every 200ms, even if the knob stays put.

There's plenty of changes that need to be made to the Raduino sketch. ?But those are not changes I'd find compelling:

Tuning position within the current 50khz range at power up may as well be wherever the pot happens to be set.

Having ? ?knob!=old_knob ? ?on first pass is good, the Si5351 gets an initial frequency loaded?

Having ? If (knob!=old_knob) ? as an outside conditional would avoid executing some code, but that doesn't buy more than a few microseconds. ?

It would be better programming practice to initialize dir_knob to either 1 or 0, but in this case it would make no noticeable difference to the user.

Here's a thread you might check out if you are interested in taking an axe to doTuning(): ? ?/g/BITX20/message/23362?

Also read this blog post: ?

And Jack's programming style kibitzing: ? ?/g/BITX20/message/22358

Jerry, KE7ER

开云体育

Hi Jack,

Thanks for being a frequent and sage member of this group. I am very much interested in a AGC, CW, and "S" meter solution for my Bitx40 XCVR. I really hate ugly construction and breadboarding. Always looks like hell. If you can think of how I can help you, please don't hesitate to ask. It's been awhile but maybe I could remember most of my "C" programming. I really like this little QRP rig. Thanks Jqck!

73,

Chuck K3VPZ

Hi there,

Wound six 8:8:8 trifilar transformers on FT37-43 toroids yesterday. On the LC meter each winding measures in the range 38 to 41 uH. ?Can anyone confirm that this is about as expected?

regards Paul VK3HN. ??

Try these guys

and instructions for bands from? 2,200m to 6m

At $4.60 it's hardly worth the effort of making it yourself!!

--
73 de Noel, ZL1NC

Hey KK6ISP de WA6ISP!

Nice Call Sign

WV6ISP in 1959!

Mike, Yucaipa

Thank you for your comments. I'm still getting my head around exactly how doTuning works.

As I don't yet have a functioning Raduino, the following is based on desk checking the code. I may be able to simulate it on a chipKIT UNO that I do have working. Here we go...

The pot wiper varies from 0-5 vdc. The internal representation of the pot, "knob", varies approximately 0-1000 counts. At 50 Hz per count, this makes the tuning range about 50 KHz.

At POR the pot could be in any position therefore knob can be anything from 0-1000 counts. Odds are the pot wasn't centered therefore the tuneup range will not be equal to the tunedown range. If you want the ranges to be equal, a routine could be added to setup() to center the pot at POR. The knob position at POR is initially equated to baseTune = 7100000L; //7100 KHz.

First, old_knob is defined as zero - int old_knob = 0;
??? This will force knob != old_knob on the first pass. I'm not sure this is what's wanted.
??? In setup(), I think this should be added to initialize old_knob to the POR position of the pot(it hasn't moved yet):
??? old_knob = analogRead(ANALOG_TUNING) - 10; // Initialize old_knob to POR position of the pot
??? Then doTuning won't trigger until the pot actually moves.

Second, you don't need to do most of doTuning if the pot hasn't changed and further if the pot
??? hasn't changed by more than the deadband. I'd make the else if(knob != old_knob) the
??? outermost loop and change it to something like if(abs(old_knob - knob) > DEADBAND) { ... }

Third, static char dir_knob; doesn't initialize dir_knob(unless the compiler sets it to zero
??? which would set it defacto to tunedown). Does this make any sense? At this point you
??? have no idea if you are tuning up or down. I would expect to see a little tuning glitch
??? at POR until these variables sync up.

Ok, back to the listing...

James
KE4MIQ

Wow!

Just Wow!

Going to MAKE me one of those with my Raduinio!!!

73 de ZL1NC

Hi,

?

Already own both of these. Anyone know where I can find the code and tips for using them with the Bitx40?

?

-B

Here's your clue: ? ?Search for ? ?brown + red + calibrate

Here's the story: ?The "Calibrating The Raduino" section ?at the bottom of?? used to say we should short the brown wire, which was incorrect. ?It has now been silently corrected to say we should short the red wire. ? Which was a bit confusing at first, as I had figured whatever WireUp claimed was the calibrate wire, it would be the other wire. ?Would be nice if instructions like that included an edit history. ?

Don't take my word for it. ?If you download the Arduino sketches from the source listed here: ??/g/BITX20/message/23214? you will find a line that says ?"#define CAL_BUTTON (A2)". ?From that you can look in the schematics for the Raduino and see where A2 is, should be the red wire from the 8 in header.

On Mar 15, 2017, at 1:33 PM, richard kappler <richkappler@...> wrote:

All,

I'm a computer geek, not an EE, so some of this is not obvious to me.

1. The volume pot has 5 leads, 3 around the circumference and 2 out the back. Am I correct that the two out the back are for the on/off function?

2. I've seen mentioned here and on a coupla youtube vids that one needs to wind ones wires. Is that all wires? And why do we do that?

3. I seem to recall reading in one of the recent posts that the instructions at HFsigs are incorrect for one of the wires, but darned if I can find the post. Can somebody shoot me a clue?

4. This is my first ever build, so I'm doing it in a plastic case, essentially storage bin with the slightly larger footprint as the shipping container but about 4 times as tall, to make it easier on me (no workshop at the moment) and to save a few shekels. There has been a lot of talk lately about heat issues, so I've ordered a heat sink for the VR on the raduino board, and concurrently ordered a pair of small (25mm iirc) fans for the case. I intend to use one to blow directly on the AMP heatsink, perhaps the other to exhaust air from the case. Any issue with just tapping off the 12V main for these? Obviously it would work voltage wise, but would it interfere with the radio?