I did not buy my 3D-Printer just to print an encloser for the BITX40 ;-)

As I already have a printer, I thought I should give it a try for the BITX.

Hallo Gernot,

ja, ich habe die rote Leitung genommen. Habe das glücklicherweise hier in der Gruppe gelesen. Es hat auch anfangs funktioniert und ich konnte den Raduino tunen, aber nach einem erneuten Versuch es noch besser zu machen, ist es dann passiert.

Facebook habe ich nicht mehr. Habe mich davon am 1.1.2016 verabschiedet.

73 Helmut

开云体育

Hallo Helmut !

Hast Du den richtigen Pin/Leitung zum kalibrieren gegen Masse gelegt? ?

Die Anleitung zum Kalibrationsvorgang auf der hfsigs-Seite sagt man solle die braune Leitung gegen Masse schalten....

DAS IST FALSCH ! ES IST DIE ROTE !

Unverst?ndlich warum das noch nicht ge?ndert wurde.

Wurde hier:?

https://www.facebook.com/groups/QrpCuba/?

?????????????????? auch schon beschrieben.

Wenn Du magst schau doch mal bei der DL Bitx-40 FB Gruppe vorbei:

73 aus Dortmund

Gernot DM1VA

From the HFSigs wire up page....

• Solder the violet (left most) wire of the 8-pin connector to the middle of the tuning control
• Solder the green (3rd from the left) wire of the 8-pin connector to the left of the tuning control
• Solder the yellow (4th from the left) wire of the 8-pin connector to the right of the tuning control
• Solder the 0.1uF disc ceramic (marked as 104) between the yellow and violet wires on the tuning pot

Mark ? KC1GNH

Hi folks

Does anyone know what the spare wires do on the Raduino board from the 8 pin header?? I know the brown one is to set the DDS into calibrate mode but cant work out what the others do?

All help gratefully received.

73 de Mike, G0JXX?

I also 3D printed mine. Did only the bottom part of the case and the front panel so far. I used the scad file of that thing

Scroll down to the Experimental Area to go to the description of the scad file and how to use it.

You can modify the file to get any size of the case you need and every cutout on the front and back panel can be setup in the scad file. So the printed panels already have all the holes for the screen, the potis and the sockets.

I will rty continue the printed case soon even though I have issues with my arduino. Have ordered a spare nano and while I wait for it to arrive, I will print the whole case and try to get all the wireing and mounting of all the potis and sockets done.

Wil post a picture, after I finished my case.

Buy a $59 radio and then buy a 3D printer to make a case, that makes me chuckle.? We'd all love to have a 3D printer, but for now I think most of us are looking for more off the shelf or easily fabbed with common tools solutions.
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I would love to use an old rig case, but they aren't usually available by themselves, they always seem to want to sell them with the chassis and want too much money.? An old HeathKit HW-101, Yaesu FT-101, Tempo One, etc. case would be fun and have tons of room, heck we could probably build an antenna tuner in.
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Plastic seems the cheapest for most, I'm wondering if that thin metal stick on tape used in HVAC would afford RF protection if stuck inside of a plastic enclosure?
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/Steve, KA0NEB

I put together my BITX40 and tried to calibrate the Raduino. While tuning it in calibration mode, it suddenly began to make a loud noise that sounds like the clicking sound when you turn the pot, but it was not clicking but only making a continous sound. I had to remove the battery to get it stopped. After that, the display just gets lit but did not show anything. I tried to reprogram the arduino, but could not get any connection to it. Pressing the reset button does not do anything and nothing could be uploaded any more. Is my arduino dead or is there anything I can do to get it back to life?