Mike, Before you throw the encoder away is it sealed or does it have an opening somewhere? You could try flushing it with WD40 to see if one of the mechanical switches is hanging and just needs a little cleaning. Blow it out good with air and let it dry for a while and then test it again. BTW, I did take one apart several years ago. It wasn't hard. I never bothered to put it back together again tho! tim ab0wr On Fri, 18 May 2018 15:07:00 -0400 "Mike aka KC2WVB" <rb5363@...> wrote: Thanks for addressing this issue, Daniel
I would show a picture of the encoder but I removed it. It's only a
few wires with yellow being a raduino ground that goes to the middle
pin out on the three pin out side. Yellow also goes to the top pin
out when viewing the encoder from its non-shaft side and the two pin
outs are on the left side of the encoder. Red then attaches below
yellow on the two pin out side and the remaining black and brown
wires attach to the top and bottom pin outs on the three pin out
side. Here it really does not matter because if you switch black and
brown you get reverse direction but I placed black on top and brown
on the bottom when looking at the encoder from behind and with the
three pin outs on the right side.
However, remember even if the push feature was perfect the rotary
feature of the encoder was only operating half correctly. I.e. the
pin out for the brown wire stayed at a constant high state while
rotating the shaft in any direction. I think it was 4.54 volts dc.
The push feature under a voltage test was erratic, so much so that I
don't really know how to easily verbalize its behavior. Regardless, I
should have something other than strictly two items that read "Band
Select" without an ability to select a band and "Press to Confirm"
which is not meaningful if a band is not able to be selected when the
encoder shaft is pushed inward. As a matter of fact there is a host
of menu items that are selectable by the encoder but it is not
presumably letting me in.
I am 99% certain the encoder that came with the kit was meant to be
in the manufacturers trash pile and I will know for certain the
encoder is the only issue my kit has when the new encoders arrive,
most likely, Monday.
I am building the sister radio, BitX 40, now. It does not use a rotary
encoder to tune the radio, rather it uses a 10K potentiometer. I
suppose this is because it being a single band radio needs not a menu
function that allows the operator to make changes. I am thinking,
until the new encoder arrives I can probably get some tuning along
the band its stuck on, ie 40 meters, by using a 10K potentiometer in
lieu of the encoder. What do you think of the Idea??
Thanks for your interest.
Mike
On May 18, 2018 2:03 PM, "Daniel Conklin" <danconklin2@...>
wrote:
Mike, It appears to be doing what it's supposed to do when you press
it. Post a photo of the back showing how you have it wired.
Daniel, W2DLC
-- tim ab0wr
|
Re: Winlink configuration with the uBitx
Lucky you.
Those 12 and 16 mhz resonators on the Nano are not very accurate, could be spot on
or could be several thousand ppm off.? If close to spot on, you can get audio beat notes
with our 12mhz BFO.? Doesn't happen very often though.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Fri, May 18, 2018 at 01:18 pm, Ghericoan wrote:
I use the usb for cat control and do not have too much trouble. Sure it raises the local receiver noise a small bit, but its not enough to worry about.
|
I bought some off ebay , not for the ubix, but to play with.? They have the 'clicks'.? I did see where someone had modified them to take out the clicks.? You could probably do the same .
On Fri, May 18, 2018 at 3:57 PM, kj6etl <pa1zz@...> wrote: I just bought these but I can feel clicks (steps) while turning. Does this mean they send me a part that isn't an EC11?
What else do I need to search for? I prefer a North American vendor for fast shipment.
This is what I just received.
_._,_._,_
|
I disabled the clicks by disassembling the encoder and ripping of the little clicker ring.
First bend the four metal tabs away from the back plastic cover.
Let the whole thing fall apart, being careful to note in what order.
There's a metal ring with a couple raised bumps spot-welded to the front metal frame (as I recall),
rip that ring out of there with a pair of pliers and a good strong tug.
Re-assemble.
I would have been fine with the mechanical clicks, except they were not quite aligned
with the encoder switch contacts so some of the clicks behaved differently.
Also, using the uBitx stock code, I was getting 4 counts per click (most of the time),
so without the clicks I have 4 times the resolution.
Works great now that it has been modified.
And if it doesn't, just remember that they are really cheap.
Jerry
|
Mike it appears that your encoder was setup properly as you described. With the first press of the encoder get you into the menus at this point if you rotate the encoder knob you will step through various selections. At this point you will need to press the encoder again to select that menu item using your example of band select if you rotate the encoder knob now it will step through the bands/frequencies in large steps the upper line will say Press to Confirm while the lower line will change with each step. Press the encoder knob now will save the selection on the lower line of the display. I hope this will help but sorry to hear you already removed the encoder.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On May 18, 2018, at 15:07, Mike aka KC2WVB < rb5363@...> wrote: Thanks for addressing this issue, Daniel
I would show a picture of the encoder but I removed it. It's only a few wires with yellow being a raduino ground that goes to the middle pin out on the three pin out side. Yellow also goes to the top pin out when viewing the encoder from its non-shaft side and the two pin outs are on the left side of the encoder. Red then attaches below yellow on the two pin out side and the remaining black and brown wires attach to the top and bottom pin outs on the three pin out side. Here it really does not matter because if you switch black and brown you get reverse direction but I placed black on top and brown on the bottom when looking at the encoder from behind and with the three pin outs on the right side.?
However, remember even if the push feature was perfect the rotary feature of the encoder was only operating half correctly. I.e. the pin out for the brown wire stayed at a constant high state while rotating the shaft in any direction. I think it was 4.54 volts dc.
The push feature under a voltage test was erratic, so much so that I don't really know how to easily verbalize its behavior. Regardless, I should have something other than strictly two items that read "Band Select" without an ability to select a band and "Press to Confirm" which is not meaningful if a band is not able to be selected when the encoder shaft is pushed inward. As a matter of fact there is a host of menu items that are selectable by the encoder but it is not presumably letting me in.
I am 99% certain the encoder that came with the kit was meant to be in the manufacturers trash pile and I will know for certain the encoder is the only issue my kit has when the new encoders arrive, most likely, Monday.
I am building the sister radio, BitX 40, now. It does not use a rotary encoder to tune the radio, rather it uses a 10K potentiometer. I suppose this is because it being a single band radio needs not a menu function that allows the operator to make changes. I am thinking, until the new encoder arrives I can probably get some tuning along the band its stuck on, ie 40 meters, by using a 10K potentiometer in lieu of the encoder. What do you think of the Idea??
Thanks for your interest.
Mike
|
I just bought 5 rotary encoders from Digi Key for $1.68?each. The part number is PEC11R-4020F-S0012-ND. I found this encoder through another UBitX builder. They were ordered late last night and I expect them via USPS first class mail on Monday
Mike
On Fri, May 18, 2018, 3:57 PM kj6etl < pa1zz@...> wrote: I just bought these but I can feel clicks (steps) while turning. Does this mean they send me a part that isn't an EC11?
What else do I need to search for? I prefer a North American vendor for fast shipment.
This is what I just received.
|
Re: Winlink configuration with the uBitx
I use the usb for cat control and do not have too much trouble. Sure it raises the local receiver noise a small bit, but its not enough to worry about.
On Fri, May 18, 2018, 4:11 PM Gordon Gibby < ggibby@...> wrote:
Geewhiz, I don¡¯t think this is hard at all. ? I don¡¯t quite understand exactly what you¡¯re doing.? Get some sort of sound card interface, either a signal link or a homebrew,
Connect up the microphone connection to the Microbit X microphone.
Connect up the speaker connection to the MicroBit X speaker output.
Connect up the push to talk connection to the MicroBid ask push to talk.
Put ferrites on the microphone and speaker connection.
Connect the signal link or sound card to your computer.? Put ferrites on that connection also...
Start with relatively low power, you can set that by setting the transmit gain on the signal link fairly low. That will reduce your chance of having radio frequency interference.
Don¡¯t connect anything at all to the raduino USB interface.? It is a very vulnerable point for radio frequency interference.
At this point you should be able to do the WINLINK transmit level test without any problem.
Pick any legal frequency and initiate a call to any WINLINK station, don¡¯t try to connect yet, just make sure he can get through a series of calls without crashing.? You need to be in the CW/digital portion of the band
Finally, try to connect to WINLINK station. Remember they center frequency is 1.5 kHz up from the dial frequency. And they all use upper side band.
Where are you located? If you can connect to Florida, I can try to listen for your signal.
It always takes a bit to get this going but once you figure it out it¡¯s easy.
Cheers
Gordon
If I remember correctly, the arduino being reset usually is caused by the DTR of serial port. You might need to find a way to configure the serial chip to not use the DTR pin. I have been meaning to look into this as well, cause each time I
start up wsjt-x, the ubitx resets.
On Fri, May 18, 2018, 3:49 PM Josh Walton via Groups.Io <josh.walton76= [email protected]> wrote:
After scanning the message archives, and finding a good bit of Winlink references, but nothing helpful for setting up WInlink to work with the uBitx, I thought I'd post a direct question to the group.
How do you best interface and configure WInlink to work with the uBitx?
My current configuration has failed:
uBitx with the CEC firmware V 1.061
soundcard interface directly with the mic and speaker jack (worked well with FLDIGI)
USB connected to raduino
Winlink setup under radio setup:
Select Radio Model: Yaesu? FT 817
USB
PPT Port: COM12, Baud 38400
When I do this, the uBitx just keeps re-setting at each PPT attempt.
I've tried soldering a 100 ohm resistor as Ian Lee suggests on between the V4 and Reset pin, just no luck
Any suggestions from the group?
--
----------
N5WLF, Greggory (or my nickname, Ghericoan)
General Class, Digital Radio Hobbyist
--
----------
N5WLF, Greggory (or my nickname, Ghericoan)
General Class, Digital Radio Hobbyist
|
Thanks for the Reply Ashar - I hope your Dad is OK
Kevin K5KDT
|
Best wishes and prayers for your father!
Roy WA0YMH
On Fri, May 18, 2018, 1:59 PM Ashhar Farhan < farhanbox@...> wrote: The trouble is me. I am supposed to ship out an updated firmware. They are waiting for that. The boards are ready,the software was supposed to have been delivered last week, but dad had to undergo an surgery so it knocked a week off my sked. I haven't travelled to dayton either. Hopefully, I will use it whole of tomorrow and the board will start flying out by evening.
|
Re: Winlink configuration with the uBitx
Geewhiz, I don¡¯t think this is hard at all. ? I don¡¯t quite understand exactly what you¡¯re doing. ?Get some sort of sound card interface, either a signal link or a homebrew,
Connect up the microphone connection to the Microbit X microphone.
Connect up the speaker connection to the MicroBit X speaker output.
Connect up the push to talk connection to the MicroBid ask push to talk.
Put ferrites on the microphone and speaker connection.
Connect the signal link or sound card to your computer. ?Put ferrites on that connection also...
Start with relatively low power, you can set that by setting the transmit gain on the signal link fairly low. That will reduce your chance of having radio frequency interference.
Don¡¯t connect anything at all to the raduino USB interface. ?It is a very vulnerable point for radio frequency interference.
At this point you should be able to do the WINLINK transmit level test without any problem.
Pick any legal frequency and initiate a call to any WINLINK station, don¡¯t try to connect yet, just make sure he can get through a series of calls without crashing. ?You need to be in the CW/digital portion of the band
Finally, try to connect to WINLINK station. Remember they center frequency is 1.5 kHz up from the dial frequency. And they all use upper side band.
Where are you located? If you can connect to Florida, I can try to listen for your signal.
It always takes a bit to get this going but once you figure it out it¡¯s easy.
Cheers
Gordon
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
If I remember correctly, the arduino being reset usually is caused by the DTR of serial port. You might need to find a way to configure the serial chip to not use the DTR pin. I have been meaning to look into this as well, cause each time I
start up wsjt-x, the ubitx resets.
On Fri, May 18, 2018, 3:49 PM Josh Walton via Groups.Io <josh.walton76= [email protected]> wrote:
After scanning the message archives, and finding a good bit of Winlink references, but nothing helpful for setting up WInlink to work with the uBitx, I thought I'd post a direct question to the group.
How do you best interface and configure WInlink to work with the uBitx?
My current configuration has failed:
uBitx with the CEC firmware V 1.061
soundcard interface directly with the mic and speaker jack (worked well with FLDIGI)
USB connected to raduino
Winlink setup under radio setup:
Select Radio Model: Yaesu? FT 817
USB
PPT Port: COM12, Baud 38400
When I do this, the uBitx just keeps re-setting at each PPT attempt.
I've tried soldering a 100 ohm resistor as Ian Lee suggests on between the V4 and Reset pin, just no luck
Any suggestions from the group?
--
----------
N5WLF, Greggory (or my nickname, Ghericoan)
General Class, Digital Radio Hobbyist
|
Re: Winlink configuration with the uBitx
If I remember correctly, the arduino being reset usually is caused by the DTR of serial port. You might need to find a way to configure the serial chip to not use the DTR pin. I have been meaning to look into this as well, cause each time I start up wsjt-x, the ubitx resets.
On Fri, May 18, 2018, 3:49 PM Josh Walton via Groups.Io <josh.walton76= [email protected]> wrote: After scanning the message archives, and finding a good bit of Winlink references, but nothing helpful for setting up WInlink to work with the uBitx, I thought I'd post a direct question to the group.
How do you best interface and configure WInlink to work with the uBitx?
My current configuration has failed:
uBitx with the CEC firmware V 1.061
soundcard interface directly with the mic and speaker jack (worked well with FLDIGI)
USB connected to raduino
Winlink setup under radio setup:
Select Radio Model: Yaesu? FT 817
USB
PPT Port: COM12, Baud 38400
When I do this, the uBitx just keeps re-setting at each PPT attempt.
I've tried soldering a 100 ohm resistor as Ian Lee suggests on between the V4 and Reset pin, just no luck
Any suggestions from the group?
--
----------
N5WLF, Greggory (or my nickname, Ghericoan)
General Class, Digital Radio Hobbyist
|
I just bought these but I can feel clicks (steps) while turning. Does this mean they send me a part that isn't an EC11?
What else do I need to search for? I prefer a North American vendor for fast shipment.
This is what I just received.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/US-Stock-5x-Rotary-Encoder-Switch-EC11-Audio-Digital-Potentiometer-Handle-20mm/371842294877?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
|
Winlink configuration with the uBitx
After scanning the message archives, and finding a good bit of Winlink references, but nothing helpful for setting up WInlink to work with the uBitx, I thought I'd post a direct question to the group.
How do you best interface and configure WInlink to work with the uBitx?
My current configuration has failed:
uBitx with the CEC firmware V 1.061
soundcard interface directly with the mic and speaker jack (worked well with FLDIGI)
USB connected to raduino
Winlink setup under radio setup:
Select Radio Model: Yaesu? FT 817
USB
PPT Port: COM12, Baud 38400
When I do this, the uBitx just keeps re-setting at each PPT attempt.
I've tried soldering a 100 ohm resistor as Ian Lee suggests on between the V4 and Reset pin, just no luck
Any suggestions from the group?
|
Thanks for the information ?Ashaar, hope your Dad is ok. I ordered my first one yesterday.
--
73's ?de kn4ud ?
Allen ?Merrell
|
It's almost certainly an Arduino Nano, with an ATMega328P chip.?
Not an STM32F103.
Jerry
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Fri, May 18, 2018 at 12:15 pm, artns7e wrote:
Hello my name is Art NS7E reading your post I was wondering my ubits HF rig came with a Arduino board and it has the Arduino mini?STM32F103already on it I think you must be talking about an older Arduino?
|
Hello my name is Art NS7E reading your post I was wondering my ubits HF rig came with a Arduino board and it has the Arduino mini? STM32F103already on it I think you must be talking about an older Arduino?
please correct me if I misunderstood.
Arthur NS7E ? at artns7e@...
|
Kees,
Technical anarchy is sometimes a good thing, as it can result in breakthrough ideas. The price to pay is it sometimes causes head-spinning confusion, so it certainly isn't appropriate for structured projects with well defined goals. I don't think this project has well-defined goals and that's what makes it so interesting to me. There is a unifying philosophy though; everyone is trying to make enhancements to a common platform, the uBITX, and that platform is our de-facto interface standard.?
Vive la difference!
Joe
|
Re: Using IRF530 outputs and 2N3553 drivers in ubitx
Is the reason for not using power MOSFET's in grounded gate the high drain-source capacitance? Looking at the IRF510 datasheet it looks like drain-source capacitance is higher than gate-source. Have I read that correctly?
Brian VK4BAP
|
Thanks for addressing this issue, Daniel
I would show a picture of the encoder but I removed it. It's only a few wires with yellow being a raduino ground that goes to the middle pin out on the three pin out side. Yellow also goes to the top pin out when viewing the encoder from its non-shaft side and the two pin outs are on the left side of the encoder. Red then attaches below yellow on the two pin out side and the remaining black and brown wires attach to the top and bottom pin outs on the three pin out side. Here it really does not matter because if you switch black and brown you get reverse direction but I placed black on top and brown on the bottom when looking at the encoder from behind and with the three pin outs on the right side.?
However, remember even if the push feature was perfect the rotary feature of the encoder was only operating half correctly. I.e. the pin out for the brown wire stayed at a constant high state while rotating the shaft in any direction. I think it was 4.54 volts dc.
The push feature under a voltage test was erratic, so much so that I don't really know how to easily verbalize its behavior. Regardless, I should have something other than strictly two items that read "Band Select" without an ability to select a band and "Press to Confirm" which is not meaningful if a band is not able to be selected when the encoder shaft is pushed inward. As a matter of fact there is a host of menu items that are selectable by the encoder but it is not presumably letting me in.
I am 99% certain the encoder that came with the kit was meant to be in the manufacturers trash pile and I will know for certain the encoder is the only issue my kit has when the new encoders arrive, most likely, Monday.
I am building the sister radio, BitX 40, now. It does not use a rotary encoder to tune the radio, rather it uses a 10K potentiometer. I suppose this is because it being a single band radio needs not a menu function that allows the operator to make changes. I am thinking, until the new encoder arrives I can probably get some tuning along the band its stuck on, ie 40 meters, by using a 10K potentiometer in lieu of the encoder. What do you think of the Idea??
Thanks for your interest.
Mike
On May 18, 2018 2:03 PM, "Daniel Conklin" < danconklin2@...> wrote: Mike, It appears to be doing what it's supposed to do when you press it.? Post a photo of the back showing how you have it wired.
Daniel, W2DLC
|
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On May 18, 2018, at 2:58 PM, Ashhar Farhan < farhanbox@...> wrote: The trouble is me. I am supposed to ship out an updated firmware. They are waiting for that. The boards are ready,the software was supposed to have been delivered last week, but dad had to undergo an surgery so it knocked a week off my sked. I haven't travelled to dayton either. Hopefully, I will use it whole of tomorrow and the board will start flying out by evening.
|
Skip Davis
Ghericoan
kj6etl