I have 2-IRF520's. I bought them because I thought they would work in place of the supplied 510's. Will they work? Difference THANKS

I have one small ceramic capcitator in the parts box i was handed by the hm who felt he couldn't complete the kit. But there are 2 locations on the Bitx40v3 board I have.There is another spot by the toroid, by itself, that as far as i can read it, no D15 nor D16 is installed either.

Are the mising ? Or don't need to be installed ?

Thanks,
--
Jim/N4AAB

Ashhar Faran's original firmware v1.01, which was the base from where I started developing my raduino sketch, can be downloaded from .

All subsequent sketch versions 1.02 through 1.18 I released since are available at

73 Allard PE1NWL

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Sorry guys for the double post. ?I did end up receiving an answer from Michael. ?I thought maybe I should have made a new post and that's why I didn't receive an answer. ?I tried to delete this original message but it looks like it didn't work. ?Sorry....newbie here.

Hi everyone, I'm a little late to the party being that I've just completed my Bitx40 build last week. ?I still have a minor bug to work out but hopefully that will be resolved in a few days. ?

I will be using mine for phone only. ?Out of the box mine has the stock version of firmware in it. ?I haven't added the suggested tuning lock buttons to it yet either but they are on the way. ?If I upgrade to the v1.18 version firmware are there any additional switches that I need to add? ?Is there an S meter in the latest firmware?

To me it looks like if I update the firmware and want to go back to the original version, the listing in the Files directory here in the group has something called "B40SoftwareRel0100.ino". ?Is that the original firmware?

Thanks

Whoops ... that last one should have read ?"disable tuning on TX" with PTT Sense mod to prevent FM-ing . !?

Curt even if you don't plan do do CW there are some nice improvements in Allard's code that are beneficial for SSB.?

The README.md file gives the details of all of the changes :



Minimally you need a FUNCTION button.

Just a few things that you might find useful :

- better tuning stability (less flutter)?
- dual VFO?
- Support for USB?
- support for 10 turn pot for tuning (tuning range setting in settings menu)
- ability to calibrate both LSB/USB from the settings menu?
- ability to adjust ?VFO drive level from settings menu (can help to reduce birdies)?
- with a SPOT switch closed you enter Fine Tune mode with 1Hz resolution (intended primarily for CW but also works for SSB)
- ability to work SPLIT (requires PTT Sense mod)
- decimal point for better frequency readability (i.e A 7.123.4 ?vs A 7.1234 )?
- disable tuning on RX with PTT Sense Mod (to prevent FM-ing during TX)

and probably a few others things that I have overlooked.

Cheers

Michael VE3WMB?

--

I cannot find it where ?is located?

--

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Does Not Eat

You might test Crazy Glue first, to make sure it does eat the enamel?

I like the glue gun, just a dab.? Crazy Glue makes a mess!? Even the "thick Stuff".

Mike, WA6ISP

On 7/10/2017 7:44 AM, Arv Evans wrote:

Michael

If you put an ohmmeter across the toroid core you should find that the core itself

has quite high DC resistance.? For this reason I would suspect that the problem

is more likely to be shorting between turns.? Applying glue might solve the problem

but a more reliable fix might be to just rewind the toroid with new enamel insulated

wire.

Arv? K7HKL
_._

On Mon, Jul 10, 2017 at 8:13 AM, Michael Davis <maddmd818@...> wrote:

I re-soldered the 6 "legs" but the problem is still there but less sensitive to bumps. I also added some glue to the toroid to make it more mechanically sound. I am guessing the twists and turns may be shorting to the core. I will leave it alone if this repair works. What is the best way to troubleshoot a toroid? My receiver is occasionally dead until I tap #? toroid, then it "jumps" to life. It remains working unless I accidentally hit that toroid again. It has 6 legs, 3 on each side soldered to/through the board. If I contact/tap each of the legs, there is no effect, so I think the problem is somewhere within the actual twists and coils. Can it be caused by the coil contacting the core and shorting? I am tempted to add some super glue to the coils while it's working and hope it stabilizes and eliminates the problem.

-- 
Mike Hagen, WA6ISP
10917 Bryant Street
Yucaipa, Ca. 92399
(909) 918-0058
PayPal ID  "MotDog@..."
Mike@...

-- 
Mike Hagen, WA6ISP
10917 Bryant Street
Yucaipa, Ca. 92399
(909) 918-0058
PayPal ID  "MotDog@..."
Mike@...

开云体育

You might test Crazy Glue first, to make sure it does eat the enamel?

I like the glue gun, just a dab.? Crazy Glue makes a mess!? Even the "thick Stuff".

Mike, WA6ISP

Michael

If you put an ohmmeter across the toroid core you should find that the core itself

has quite high DC resistance.? For this reason I would suspect that the problem

is more likely to be shorting between turns.? Applying glue might solve the problem

but a more reliable fix might be to just rewind the toroid with new enamel insulated

wire.

Arv? K7HKL
_._

On Mon, Jul 10, 2017 at 8:13 AM, Michael Davis <maddmd818@...> wrote:

I re-soldered the 6 "legs" but the problem is still there but less sensitive to bumps. I also added some glue to the toroid to make it more mechanically sound. I am guessing the twists and turns may be shorting to the core. I will leave it alone if this repair works. What is the best way to troubleshoot a toroid? My receiver is occasionally dead until I tap #? toroid, then it "jumps" to life. It remains working unless I accidentally hit that toroid again. It has 6 legs, 3 on each side soldered to/through the board. If I contact/tap each of the legs, there is no effect, so I think the problem is somewhere within the actual twists and coils. Can it be caused by the coil contacting the core and shorting? I am tempted to add some super glue to the coils while it's working and hope it stabilizes and eliminates the problem.

-- 
Mike Hagen, WA6ISP
10917 Bryant Street
Yucaipa, Ca. 92399
(909) 918-0058
PayPal ID  "MotDog@..."
Mike@...

Vince,
$$$
I'm too cheap.

The bitx40 has two cascaded relays. One is the PTT activated one and the other is activated from the first.

These relays on my board "VRS.." have some <7ms according to the data sheet. So two relays cascaded would
have up to 15ms delay.

It will be better to power both relays from the PTT but this will put undue current stress on the PTT
switch. Fix: Add a couple of transistor to handle the PTT and drive the relays.

This is my next hack when I get back to my town house bench!

Any thoughts?

73

--
Raj, vu2zap
Kodagu/Coorg

Hi guys, I have my Bitx40 built and receiving. ?For some reason I think the final got whacked or it was shipped with a defective final so I have a few of those coming in. ?To date, mine has never transmitted but everyone seems to think that the new final will fix the issue. ?Let's hope.

To get back on topic my radio has the factory default firmware in it, something like 1.0 or 1.1, I don't have it here with me at the moment. ?If I install the new 1.18 firmware does anything need else added to the radio like the two switches to control the galloping VFO? ?So far I haven't added those yet but the switches are in the mail. ?I'm not going to be using my radio for CW so what's happened in the firmware between 1.0/1.1 that I will benefit from? ?Also, is there a place that I can get the original firmware in case I need to go back to that?

Thanks,

Curt

I will be adding Rca phono pannel jack to use ptt switch ?to key up Amertron amp. I have tested ?so far maxium output near 100 walts
--
I have ?bitx40 ?and completely wired up. get nice hiss when the volume up. display lights up only showing Raduino V1.01. ?frequency never shown, anyone have that problem? ?i think the software is not in the chip.
Francesca W7LTG ? NV?

Thank you, Allard, this works flawlessly.
Greg