It took a LOT of fiddling and diddling to get it to work. I too, have a laminator. Actually two of them. It was VERY fussy re: board cleanliness.
The ultimate solution was a paper especially made for toner transfer.
This
stuff is magic. It floats right off in the water. It wasn't cheap.
I see Mouser has it. $13.71 for ten sheets. If you cut them in half, that's
enough for 20 good sized boards. Just google "toner transfer paper pcb". The
same maker has a foil that you iron over the transferred toner to protect it from etchant - because toner is porous, and you get ugly little holes in your traces. I haven't tried that.
- Jerry KF6VB
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On 2021-04-26 19:35, Ashhar Farhan wrote:
I have had horrible experience with homemade PCBs. The press and peel
invariably smudged for me. One needs the PCBs only when using SMD with
small footprints. They are hard to resolve with laser print + ironing.
I even both a laminator. Nothing worked to any satisfaction.
Invariably one part or the other of the pcb got smudged. Finally I
gave up.
Is there a simple and repeatable system that works well? Maybe I
should try the photoresist. I looked at othermill, a pcb prototyping
cnc machine. It needs special pcb material and it doesnt do SMD very
well.
- f
On Tue 27 Apr, 2021, 7:54 AM Jack, W8TEE via groups.io [1],
<jjpurdum@...> wrote:
Chuck Adams has a video on YouTube using "Muppet" PCB fabrication.
It works well.
Jack, W8TEE
On Monday, April 26, 2021, 4:09:01 PM EDT, jerry@...
<jerry@...> wrote:
I made a very big mistake on the choice of the footprint in Kicad
for
relays.
This sort of thing is a good argument for homemade circuit boards.
I
used to do it with pcb-express. I downloaded their software but did
not
order their boards. I would print out the copper layers mirror
image on
a laser printer.
Then iron the paper onto my copperclad board with a clothes
iron. The paper would be stuck to the board. Then dunk it all in
water
and peel the paper off, hopefully leaving the
toner on the board.
Then dunk the board in ferric chloride etchant. When it's etched,
pull it out and scrub off the laser toner. I use a Dremel mounted
on a
drill press fixture and little tiny drill bits ( used to be
available in
boxes really cheap at Harbor Freight, but no apparently longer alas
) to
drill the through holes.
The devil is in the details with this thing - lots of
experimentation
with different papers. But I have successfully done 25-grid parts
with
it.
The boards don't turn out nearly as nice as something from a board
house, but you can design a board in the morning and have it in your
hands the same afternoon.
- Jerry KF6VB
On 2021-04-26 10:18, Gerard wrote:
Hello,
I made a very big mistake on the choice of the footprint in Kicad
for
relays. Therefore, it cannot necessarily work. So I desoldered the
relays and so I¡¯m going to make an adapter to fix it. This is
the
cleanest solution than cutting the tracks on the PCB
The relay will be offset by 2.54 mm and the connection of the shot
will be corrected.
Only drawback we will see the support on 2.54mm, but it is the
best
solution.
I read that we can add a protective diode on K1, can you tell me
where
exactly
cdt
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--
Jack, W8TEE
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