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As I recall, the Bitx40 is around 150ma in receive.
Pressing the PTT button for transmit will bring that up some, your 310ma with zero IRF510 drain current might be fine.
You can then either increase RV1 for 410ma, of which the additional 100ma is going from the IRF510 drain to ground.

If you were to break away the separate power connector for the IRF510 and put a meter in series with that 12v line,
you should see the current go up from 0ma to 100ma.? But probably not necessary to do that.

Good that the receiver works, you should be most of the way there.

You can reduce the heat on the Raduino's LM7805 by adding a 50 ohm 1/2 watt resistor in series with the 12v lead
from the bitx40 to the Raduino.? Adding a cap to ground from each end of the resistor can reduce tuning clicks?
if that's a problem, I've heard reports of 1uF to 100uF and more being good.
;
None of this addresses your prime issue of why transmit does not work.

Most failures on the Bitx40 are in the torroids, check T5,T6,T7,L5,L6 closely
with good light and a magnifying glass, look for shorts, no solder, or perhaps an attempt
to solder to enameled wire that hasn't had the enamel stripped back.? Use an ohmmeter
to nearby pads (not directly on the coil's pads, you are trying to check out the soldering job)
to verify that there is zero ohms?through each winding.??

We've had at least one report here of a torroid that failed from shorts within the windings,
but that is very unusual, possibly failed when the toroid got hot and the enamel was compromised.

Then check DC voltages at each transistor in the transmit chain comparing with Randy's figures:
? ? /g/BITX20/files/K7AGE
?
If nothing obvious, you need some way to look at AC voltages.??
This can be done with a scope, or with a diode RF probe + dvm.
Compare with my figures in post? ?/g/BITX20/message/22764

Jerry