开云体育

Vince: It is a Chinese kit with the SMD already mounted. I would be very happy to receive the instructions! My email can be found on QRZ as W1LJ. Since you have built one, mind if I ask a couple of

Which one did you buy? At least some of the Chinese version only need the toroids and connectors mounted, others including the Russian version require all the SMDs to be mounted too. If it's one of

Group: I bought a 1 kW ATU kit online, but it didn't come with any assembly instructions! Is there anybody who has built an ATU-1000 and is willing to scan the assembly instructions and email them to

Hi Mark The short on the "B+" side of J4..? The B+ goes to pin 2 of the FETs, all the associated 10nF bypass caps and the two 470uF caps. Possibly a etching fault on the PCB.? Or one of the bypass

Dave The ATU-10 is a 'QRP' version of the ATU-100. Power is limited to about 10W and it uses latching relays for low consumption.? It fits into a small extruded case, 100 x 71mm available from usual

Just built my second AT-100 but display is upside down in the case.? Flipping it over does not work, bottom line is not visible.? Is there a way to flip it over? Thank you? 73? Emory? WM3M

Glenn, Thanks for the suggestions. Double checked the FET's under a USB microscope, and all are correctly oriented. There is a direct short from the B+ side of J4 to ground. Am I reading the schematic

was the atu discussed on this list built to the atu100 schematic or is there a difference. also what is the atu10? dave k7da

Glenn thanks. The operation of that fuse explains what I saw. Will check the orientation of those chips. That and the adjacent caps were the area where I was most concerned about the quality of my

Mark. Did you check orientation of the FET devices. If using my pcb then all the devices are fitted in the same direction.? There is a tiny dot for pin 1 end.? The dot on the FET is very hard to

In the process of incrementally assemblying my ATU-10. Got to the first step where it booted with the two pics programmed and installed. Moved on to putting in the relays.? I have *not* installed any

No problem Mark. That catches many, including myself? Unless you have a copy of the original compiler (Mikro-C at about US$300) then no way to re-compile it. BUT i think a couple of people here

Normally the OLED should be on at power up, but after 30secs? it powers down to save power.? A long push should bring it up again.

Duh.... PB-1 must be installed to get to display.? All set (and embarrassed). 73 Mark

Now I am really looking like the noobie I am...? Apparently 0x3C i2C address is 0x78 (on the bus).... Back to ground zero here. Mark

Glen, Recompiling looks hard. Any pointers on how to change the I2C address in the hex? Or alternatively, (probably better) a link to a OLED with a 0x78 address in the .91 size? They all seem to be

Glen, Thanks for the suggestions. The progress bar did move across the dialog, couldn't see it hit the end as it was too fast. But I think I found the issue...? Scanned my OLED's and they are at

Mark, *2.* I have found that if you use one USB cable from pc to the USB connector on the ATU-10 to provide power, then there is no need to do your other points (Advanced etc) ie You need two USB

Mark, Did you see the progress bar while programming the PIC16F18877, move right across the box.??? It can happen that it only moves a small percentage of the bar graph indicating its not

Hi, Using the ATU-10 v1.2 board and got to the point where both MCU's are apparently programmed. 1. Programmed the 1454 with the MPLAB IDE 2. Plugged in the board, it came up as a disk on my PC, and