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Re: all works except the bypass.
ok, yes. i did just that. no go. i just got the last one finished. other then a single color oled supplied, it worked on the first go. no issues at all. i did have another dual color oled so i changed it. now i have the yellow on the top for the power. just easier to see at a glance for me. the pic chips are supposed to be here by next week and i will change it out , read it, clear it verify then flash and verify and cross my fingers. i feel it will work fine. i will post an update here. thanks for the help. Amie N9OXO
good on qrz!? |
Re: all works except the bypass.
Hi Amie, It does look like the PIC may be the problem. Provided you have loaded the same firmware it should be fine. You could try adding an external 10k? pull-up from RB2 (pin 23) to +5V to see if it starts working.
This is an extract from the github source code. ? WPUB.B0 = 1;? // PORTB0 Pull-up resistor
? WPUB.B1 = 1;? // PORTB1 Pull-up resistor
? WPUB.B2 = 1;? // PORTB2 Pull-up resistor
73, Dave
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Re: all works except the bypass.
ok, here is what i have. ON the pin of 22 i have +5 on the pin 23 zero v. from the via pad to 23 to pin 23 have contact. no zero home. the pad has contact to pin 23 and nothing else, no short. no 5v to pin 23 when powered up. pin 22 has 5v it works for the auto on off. i am not sure the programming would cause this or not?? it is flashed with the 3.2, same as the others that do work fine. so??? seems to be the pic chip ?? Amie
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Re: all works except the bypass.
All understood. Yes, there should be a weak pull-up to VDD (5V) inferred in the firmware for RB0, RB1, and RB2 (Pins, 21, 22 and 23). If you measure the voltage between GND and the pin it should be 5V. The Bypass control is on RB2 (pin 23). I agree if all looks good you may end up having to change the PIC. 73, Dave |
Re: all works except the bypass.
i will check fo b+ . so, you are saying there is B+ on pin 22 and 23? of the pic. the one in the picture is clean. and it works fine. i clean them all and use a 6x loop to go over any of the boards i build up. the flux is usually the worst mess ever under the loop. i will check and post back. i do know it is not shorted out to the button terminal. the auto press does work, but the bypass is not.
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Re: all works except the bypass.
Hi,
Before you change the PIC it may just be worth checking the voltage on each of the connections. There should be an internal weak pull-up resistor on the RB1 and RB2 lines and therefore with the external buttons in the open position you should measure 5V. If the signal is 0V, it may not be connected, or it could be shorted to GND. Looking at the image you posted, there may be a small solder bridge between B2 and ground.
73, Dave |
Re: all works except the bypass.
so, i have built several of these, only one is not working correct, so, i have ordered some of the pic16F1938 and going to replace it. nothing else has a issue. has to be a pic issue. also, on the via holes for B1 and B2 just use a trimmed lead in them then hook the wires. easy and no issues that way . read a lot about issues from being so small. leads takes care of it.?
nice little 2 hour project :)? |
all works except the bypass.
Hello, i have put togethe 4 kits now, all work but one the bypass wont work properly, sometimes it will and then just wont, re booted several times, the wires are done right on the thru pads using trimed leads. confirmed contact to pins 22 on the pic. no shorts, and board very clean. push switch is working fine. but it just refused to respond. i have order sveral of the pic16f1938 chips, and pic16f1936,? plan is to replace it and re flash it. see what happenes. the only thing i can come up with it a bad chip. all the other are working and built the same way. wondered if anyone else is having same issue???
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Re: ATU 10, Display losing pixels when tuning?
hi Christian,
I had another issue with an ATU100, where the OLED made noise every 1080kHz up to 30MHz... Search the regulator on the back, then do a try... ( mine is a 0.96inch OLED) I know, where RF comes out, RF also goes in...? I think, it's worth to make a try. (I don't know, how many capacity the IIC-bus can drive. On the board there are just 1nF installed on SCL and SDA) 73, Immo |
I'm a newbie
VE3KTN
Hello folks, just received an ATU-100 (not the "M") in my post box and am trying to figure it out.? There was no manual in the box and the web searches are returning only documents which don't correspond to the setup interface I have.? FWIW, it boots up as "FW = 3.2" and the setup menu scrolls through only 4 items: Auto Mode; Show Loss; Fider Loss (whatever that is); and Auto Delta.
Thanks to anyone who has correct documentation for this unit.? Front panel pic is attached. 73, Hugo, ve3ktn. |
Re: Tuning not starting
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýHello, Thanks for responding. I ordered some BAT41 diodes that should arrive in the next couple days.? I'll let you know how it goes.? Thanks again for all of your help! Ryan Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone -------- Original message -------- From: "Immo, DL5KB" <dl5kb@...> Date: 8/22/23 16:22 (GMT-06:00) Subject: Re: [ATU100] Tuning not starting Make another measurement across the diodes, both ways. You should see a difference, one direction lower resistance, other direction higher value. again sorry for confusion... But I think the diodes are deef... (And the 87 ohms are too low.)? 73 |
Re: Tuning not starting
Sorry Ryan, I missed, that T2 of the bridge goes just to GND. So 0.2ohms should be ok... not 25, as I said first.
Make another measurement across the diodes, both ways. You should see a difference, one direction lower resistance, other direction higher value. again sorry for confusion... But I think the diodes are deef... (And the 87 ohms are too low.)? 73 |
Re: Tuning not starting
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýHello? Sorry. 87.2ohm on one side and 0.2 on the other side for both diodes. Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone -------- Original message -------- From: Ryan Hartnett <ryan@...> Date: 8/22/23 10:43 (GMT-06:00) Subject: Re: [ATU100] Tuning not starting Hello, Yes, I've tried applying 10-20w of power without success. I'll check the diodes when I get home from work and let you know. Thank you for the input. Ryan KF8IV Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone -------- Original message -------- From: "Immo, DL5KB" <dl5kb@...> Date: 8/22/23 10:19 (GMT-06:00) Subject: Re: [ATU100] Tuning not starting sorry, but first the question: do you apply more than 5W HF (CW, AM or FM) to start tuning?? Before changing the diodes, you should make some little measurements with an Ohm-meter to see, if the diodes are indeed diodes... From Anode to GND you should measure abt. 25 ohms, from cathode to GND you should have more than 68k. If not, change them both. There were some issues with the diodes I know. 73, Immo (the starter of this thread is "Kes", M0PKZ. perhaps mail him in direct to get knowing how he solved his problem...., address you find on QRZ-web site) |
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