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Re: Misc.thingsfor genral discussion.

 

Hi Ron and atu100-groupies! Will be starting my 7x7 build in next few days, kit from Aliexpress, really cheap!?

Curious which 3d enclosure you printed and what 'little work' you need to do. I have a couple of 3d printers, Creality Ender 3 and Anet A8 Plus. Probably will try a print on both printers and see which one comes out best. Please post pics of your enclosure on a new 3d priinted enclosure thread.

73,
Mitch W4OA
Opelika, AL


Re: Misc.thingsfor genral discussion.

 

I have finished one out of 4 units.
It seems as the binocular toroid does not seem to matter much. As long as each side is 10:1.
The one just finished and in the pictures is using a 1602 display via serial data lines. Works great!

I have modified the EEPROM data bits to make it function using a ssd 0.96" display.Works fine but stupid me
hooked up the RF connectors backwards the whole time during testing and I'm sure I blew the PIC input.
Didn't catch that until much wasted time %$#@*&%$.....
Live and learn and after all that work.
I have more PICS, just the fact that It is the hardest part to replace.

Bug having fun and learning a bunch.
W4DNQ/Ron


4 photos uploaded #photo-notice

[email protected] Notification
 

The following photos have been uploaded to the Finish #1 album of the [email protected] group.

By: W4DNQ


3 photos uploaded #photo-notice

[email protected] Notification
 

The following photos have been uploaded to the Outside_Testing_on_60meters album of the [email protected] group.

By: W4DNQ


Photo Notifications #photo-notice

[email protected] Notification
 

The following photos have been uploaded to the 3D Print of 1602 type Display album of the [email protected] group.

By: W4DNQ


W4DNQ added the album ATU100 _Outside_Build: This one cam with all SMT parts soldered. Saved me 4 Hours of Pain!


The following photos have been uploaded to the ATU100 _Outside_Build album of the [email protected] group.

By: W4DNQ


W4DNQ added the album Outside_Testing_on_60meters: Antenna is not resonant on 60m.


Photo Notifications #photo-notice

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W4DNQ added the album 3D Print of 1602 type Display: PLA @ 210DegC


The following photos have been uploaded to the 3D Print of 1602 type Display album of the [email protected] group.

By: W4DNQ


Misc.thingsfor genral discussion.

 

Hello all, would love to see some photos from guys that are doing this build.
I have been laid up on and off with RA flair ups that have taken away a lot of time from the bench.
But should be at it soon.

I have 3D printed a couple test enclosures that need a little work.
Will be posting pics of them soon.

Ron/W4DNQ


Re: Hello and Schottky Diodes (D1, D2) Question

 

Let me correct the crazy spelling correction:
Suppression caps to absorb the turning off of the relays.


Re: Hello and Schottky Diodes (D1, D2) Question

 

Grant,
Actually I measured 0.85ufd on each of the caps.
They are just suppression caps to take away the relay blot f4om the misfits.
They all worked fine for me.

Still tying up some lose ends here and hope to have some more pics of the tandem/transmatch
Type accepted by the end of the weekend.

Ron W4DNQ Macclenny, FL?


Re: Hello and Schottky Diodes (D1, D2) Question

 

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Hi All,?
Thanks for the replies. I¡¯ll go for the 1N5711W SMD for both D1 and D2 and hope for the best!

It gets worse though- the strip of 1uF SMD capacitors are actually measuring at 8.5uF.?
I contacted the seller and they said these are fine to use. They also offered to post the missing Schottky diodes- so full credit to them.?

Looks like most of these capacitors are used as stray RF filters between + rails and GND.?
Increasing the values of these would just increase the upper limit of the frequencies they filter out right?

Has everyone just stuck with the 1uF capacitors or would it be worthwhile using the 8.5uF ones instead?


Many thanks folks, 73s
Grant




On 22 Jul 2020, at 23:13, hion5kn <hion5kn@...> wrote:

??? ??? ??? Grant,

You may use both but as A: ¡®use either a BAT41 or 1N5711 for both D1 and D2¡¯

Not two different ones .

Willy


Op 22/07/2020 om 11:01 schreef Grant Crockford via :
Hi Everyone,?
I got a very cheap N7DDC kit from eBay a few weeks ago, but it unfortunately didn't come with all the components. No complaints from me- i wanted it to be cheap!

The missing bits are specifically the two Schottky diodes D1 and D2.?
On the github schematic they are listed as ¡°D1, D2 - BAT41, 1N5711¡±

Does this mean:?
A: ¡®use either a BAT41 or 1N5711 for both D1 and D2¡¯?
or?
B: ¡®use a BAT41 for D1, and a 1N5711 for D2¡¯

Both look to be very similar but different components, but i¡¯m not an expert.?

As these are both THT parts, I was also wondering if i could use SMD parts instead?
I guess i could form the leads to match the pads, but i¡¯d rather not if possible.?
I think a 1N5711W (a SOD123 package, pretty much an exact replacement for the 1N5711) would fit the pads, but can anybody confirm?

Datasheets are here for them all for handiness:?

Many thanks,?
Grant
MM7AOS


Re: Hello and Schottky Diodes (D1, D2) Question

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

??? ??? ??? Grant,

You may use both but as A: ¡®use either a BAT41 or 1N5711 for both D1 and D2¡¯

Not two different ones .

Willy


Op 22/07/2020 om 11:01 schreef Grant Crockford via groups.io:

Hi Everyone,?
I got a very cheap N7DDC kit from eBay a few weeks ago, but it unfortunately didn't come with all the components. No complaints from me- i wanted it to be cheap!

The missing bits are specifically the two Schottky diodes D1 and D2.?
On the github schematic they are listed as ¡°D1, D2 - BAT41, 1N5711¡±

Does this mean:?
A: ¡®use either a BAT41 or 1N5711 for both D1 and D2¡¯?
or?
B: ¡®use a BAT41 for D1, and a 1N5711 for D2¡¯

Both look to be very similar but different components, but i¡¯m not an expert.?

As these are both THT parts, I was also wondering if i could use SMD parts instead?
I guess i could form the leads to match the pads, but i¡¯d rather not if possible.?
I think a 1N5711W (a SOD123 package, pretty much an exact replacement for the 1N5711) would fit the pads, but can anybody confirm?

Datasheets are here for them all for handiness:?

Many thanks,?
Grant
MM7AOS


Re: Hello and Schottky Diodes (D1, D2) Question

 

Hi Grant, Sorry to hear about your missing diodes.
KitsandParts.com has them in stock as well.
It is a interesting kit and has been a great learning experience for me.
I finally received one out of two Russian (built already units) that I have been waiting, for months.

73's and welcome.
Ron W4DNQ


Hello and Schottky Diodes (D1, D2) Question

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Hi Everyone,?
I got a very cheap N7DDC kit from eBay a few weeks ago, but it unfortunately didn't come with all the components. No complaints from me- i wanted it to be cheap!

The missing bits are specifically the two Schottky diodes D1 and D2.?
On the github schematic they are listed as ¡°D1, D2 - BAT41, 1N5711¡±

Does this mean:?
A: ¡®use either a BAT41 or 1N5711 for both D1 and D2¡¯?
or?
B: ¡®use a BAT41 for D1, and a 1N5711 for D2¡¯

Both look to be very similar but different components, but i¡¯m not an expert.?

As these are both THT parts, I was also wondering if i could use SMD parts instead?
I guess i could form the leads to match the pads, but i¡¯d rather not if possible.?
I think a 1N5711W (a SOD123 package, pretty much an exact replacement for the 1N5711) would fit the pads, but can anybody confirm?

Datasheets are here for them all for handiness:?

Many thanks,?
Grant
MM7AOS


9 photos uploaded #photo-notice

[email protected] Notification
 


Re: For a Non-Kit Version !

 

Another one, but they seem to be almost gone:



Ron/W4DNQ


For a Non-Kit Version !

 

Looks good, has a nice case and is ready to go. Coaxial power connector instead of a USB power port.



Looks like he is building this with a special case. Get one if you do not want to build one.?
I have three to build, but only because I enjoy the challenge and have the time.
I also think we will see more built units coming soon.
Ron/W4DNQ


Re: Links to things needed for a complete build.

 

New number for Chipquick Soldering paste:


Links to things needed for a complete build.

 

This one comes with display. First thing I will do is see if the microprocessor comes programmed.
I will build this one first as I have two of the others.


___________________________________________________________________________________

This one does not come with a display and not sure if programmed:



Programmer to either program the entire chip or change a hex bit as per your display type as per instructions
found in the N7DDC github files. A special thanks to N7DDC for all of his hard work. Latest version is v3.0.



I use CHIPQUIK SMDLTLFT4 flux and the smallest 60/40 solder I can find. Just putting a tiny drop of solder
on your tip will do. You do not have to worry about burning up the solder core flux as you already have flux on the
chip pin.
Not absolutely necessary, but I use a stereo microscope that holds the part still and makes things a lot easier.

Photo's to follow which can be found in the photo section, as building occurs.
I will also be adding notes as I move forward.

The board is so small it could be mounted into any amplifier project.
73's Ron W4DNQ


A good site for building instructions. + more.

 




Not one for buying much from the Chinese these days but this one is hard to pass up.

I ordered a PIC 3.5 from someone in the states and plan to use it Microchips programming software.

Someone is selling the kit a kit with the chip already soldered, programmed and with the proper display.
You must change a few hex bits in the hex program to switch between different type of displays.
All well documented in the instructions.

I will be building mine with 2kv capacitors. The gum drop mylar type as to except a little high wattage.
73's
Ron W4DNQ


Github of files need for just about everything including 3D enclosure.!