I loaded Relay Testing software and by pressing TUNE I can hear relay clicking and going through C values to L values and SW/IN SW/OUT. I don't see C or L values though as it is on ATU-100. Is this expected behaviour??

73 Marek

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Relay not working…

Hi All,

I purchased some time ago ATU-10 on Aliexpress but haven't used it till now. I have 1.4 firmware which I upgraded from 1.3.

Testing tuning using 50ohm dummy load I get following results
80 SWR 1.09:1
60 SWR 1.18:1
40 SWR 1.25:1
30 SWR 1.92:1
20 SWR 2.10:1
17 SWR 2.65:1
15 SWR 3.25:1
12 SWR 3.95:1
10 SWR 4.75:1

Could you help me to trouble shoot this problem.

Looking inside I can see white silicon like substance placed on top of coils. Any suggestions much appreciated.

73 Marek

Mouser is expecting the DIP package any day. Only a few thousand so you would have to be on top of the order.?

I'm looking for a total of 8? 28 pin? PIC 16F1938 DIP parts to complete a kit build of Barb-A-Watt meters. The parts shortages have really cut into these.

73 Kees K5BCQ

Many thanks Glenn.

Dave, W0DF

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Sorry for the troubles.

Glenn

Thank you Glenn!

Apologies for that. Seems I sorted the Xcel spreadsheet but didn't include the left column in the sort...... Duh

If you use the Link from N7DDC's Github, it should now be corrected.
Of course if you go direct to me web pages, it will be OK also.?

Glenn

I am going through the same issue. It looks like the sheet was sorted and was not quite corrected. I am at a standstill on mine because I decided I needed to check the BOM against the schematic and correct some errors that may have crept into my build. If anyone has a corrected document that would be a great help. If I make a checked one I will post it.?

I'm finally getting around to building up the V1.3 version of the ATU-10 PCB that I bought from Kees.? Can someone explain to me why the BOM sometimes calls for more than the quantity of components than the reference number, i.e. the BOM calls for qty 2 for R19.? The obviously isn't more than one R19 on the board or the schematic, so why does the BOM call for qty 2? There are other similar cases for some of the other parts.? What am I missing?

Thanks,
Dave, W0DF

I replaced both the toroids and caps, which made the thing quite a bit more expensive.

I wish I had just got the PCB and put all the parts on myself. As an example the UHF connectors you will get from China are carp.

I just finished mine and am having some issues with either RFI or doggy software they loaded on.

I got the ATU100 kit from china and put it together.

When I use it on either ~60W or when the SWR > 5 the mode seems to change randomly as I transmit.

Not sure if its RFI or a software issue. I have a CMC on the line and done seem to be seeing any sign of common mode issues.

Is any one else having similar issues or any suggestions on getting to the bottom of this.

--
Gyula HA3HZ

Mike,
if I think so, this is the one-button Chinese version of the ATU-100. They put this little panel in them, I don’t recognize what it could be.
A few notes: if you see a USB connector, you should only send 5V to it. They made a usb socket.
The 12V supply voltage (polarity protection) is applied to the original ATU panel via a serial diode.
The ATU panel has an additional voltage reduction to 5V required for operation.
You need to track the wiring so that the wire goes from the USB socket to the 5V part of the ATU, then the ATU panel may be damaged as well.
If you have the opportunity to test, do not use a voltage higher than 5V and limit the current to 100mA.
To determine if the ATU panel is damaged as well.
You need to see how and what the wires connect to (draw for yourself).
This allows you to connect 5V to the 5V section and measure current consumption.
It should not be more than approx. 40mA normally with Oled display.
Then you are just looking at the current consumption of the ATU and nothing is connected to it.
If it is different (more or less) then you can look for more errors.
If you don't want to deal with this, you've unfortunately managed to ruin the device with more voltage.

ps.: I'm sorry, I remembered badly. In the case of 12V power supply I had a current consumption of 36 mA. At 5V this is approx. 100mA possible.
--
Gyula HA3HZ

Well, it looks like the 8 pin IC took the easy way out.......burnt up!

I just bought the device and plugged it into a 12DC supply using the front mini-usb port.

I have been pouring over the schematics and see U2 i believe. Not sure if that is the right component.

So the big question is.....can i buy new power board (assuming that is what it is) or am i going to have a buy a new unit?

Any help greatly appreciated.
mike

I have the exact tuner. No charger came with it and it will not charge with ac 12v charger.

Don't see any responses.....
Mike

Hi,

Have on order one of those ATU-100 "kits" from Amazon (Malahit ATU-100 7x7). I read where c1-c7 are ceramic instead of the original silver mica 500v and there was some concern expressed by at least one reviewer that this might impact max handling wattage.

Also wondering whether it is worth getting the "real deal" on the T68-2 and the ballun core from Kits and Parts.?

Will probably build "as is" but thinking about future mods. Any thoughts or experiences?

73
Mark
AJ6CU

Hi Onno,
where i can find pcbs or gerbers files for ATU1000 ?
Thanks, 73
Luca IK2LRN?

So an update here....

The ATU-10's OLED stay lit until I drove the battery down to about 3/4. Then it started acting like specified (oled turns off after 5 min, quick press to re-light, after 40 minutes, shutdown , long press to restart).

The interesting thing is that I then recharged the battery to what looked like full charge (tip of battery filled in). Now it is acting as expected with light off (5 min) and shutdown(30 min).

The only thing I can think of is that I took the advice of the assembly instructions and individually fully charged each battery before soldering them in. So perhaps the original voltage of the battery has something to do with this behavior.

In any case, all is well now!

73
Mark
AJ6CU