Hello!

The BOM is also mostly the same as the , except that the TMMBAT41FILM detectors (diodes) are replaced with the AD8361 chips (SOT-23-5, 2 pcs).
Extra parts:

1. 56,2 Ohm 1% resistor (1206), 2 pcs (to replace the original 50 Ohm ones)
2. 287 Ohm 1% resistor (0603), 2 pcs
3. 787 Ohm 1% resistor (0603), 2 pcs
4. 1nF capacitor (0603), 2 pcs
5. 10nF capacitor (0603), 2 pcs
6. 1uF capacitor (0603), 2 pcs
7. 10uF 16V tantalum capacitor (size A), 1 pcs

Also the pair of 47 kOhm resistors (0603, traces between the AD8361 outputs and the FWD, RFL test points) to be replaced with ~100 Ohm ones, or to be shorted alltogether.
There should be 10 turns in the "binocular" windings (instead of the original five turns).
Warm regards,
Tony

Greetings,

Will it be possible to share the BOM file for this design as well?

Many thanks in advance!

--- Eugene

Oh! Forgot to mention that the difficulties of flashing the firmware into the PIC16F1454 chip is solved on this PCB too.

Regards,
Tony

Dear Colin,

All the ceramics are mostly there.
I removed one (big) tantalum capacitor and relocated the remaining one where it is most needed: closest to the relay control switches, on a dedicated ground area, - the current spikes will not create noises on the remaining (signal) ground plane. Please note I rotated the ceramics near the relays so that the ground strip is now much wider there.
Yes, I realise that the SWR measurements do not happen during the relays' switchings, but still it is Good Thing? to have quieter power/ground plane.

Warm regards,
Tony

It seems to have fewer capacitors. We’re some deleted or is it jut organized differently?

Hello!

Here are the GERBER files and two sides of the PCB as pictures.

Warm regards,
Tony

开云体育

Tony

Can you post a pdf or jpg of the pcb.?? I am unable to open that type u posted.

Glenn

Hello!

This is a cleanup version of the ATU-10 (w/ AD8361) PCB - with USB-C charging error fixed and the option to use PIC16F1454 in either the TSSOP or QFN packages. Sorry, I could not do a provision for the SOIC.

Hope, this makes it easyer to assemble the device.

Warm regards,
Tony

Hi

I have the same problem from time to time but as long as it verifies ok (as yours does) then all is ok.??

开云体育

hello folks, have just completed a build on one of the atu100s and have a problems

my first attempt at PIC, have played with Arduinos with fairly good results in the past

have followed the IK3SSG video on u-tube, (using the same equipment), when writing to the device (3.2 firmware) after a couple of seconds "device not responding" appears to the right of the device ID, progress bar pauses, another couple of seconds bar carries on and displays programming successful, is this normal or have I a faulty device

if I then read the device and compare with the original, both files are identical

many thanks, Graham - G4PTK

Anyone have any experience with this kit?? Claims 3-4KV caps, Schraack relays (unsure of the exact contact rating.?
Anyone have any experience or more insight into parts quality?
I don't need a full KW, but would like to operate 100 W reliably and with room to grow in the future.?
Thanks in advance!?

Lynn, K0CLM

Hello!

Are you aware of the project?
It worked for me nicely (on win10/64 with a Chinese PICkit 2 clone). Huge thanks to the author of that project.

Regards,
Tony

Dear Glenn,

Is there - on your PCB - the connection between the ISP pad #2 and the power circuit of the PIC16F1454 chip?

On the original PCB there is no such connection, I had to solder a wire there to be able to program the firmware, without that connection - even on the USB-powered ATU-10 - the verification failed.

Regards,
Tony

Dear Glenn,

Does your PCB provide a connection of the ISP pad #2 to the power circuit of the PIC16F1454 chip?
I ask because the original PCB does not have that trace. I had to solder a wire there to be able to program the chip, without it - it was failing to verify the firmware.

Regards,
Tony

Hello!

To close this topic:

• yes, the XPRESS firmware that is present on the PIC16F1454, if it comes with the DM164142 demo-board, is not usable for the ATU-10. But its' crashability is not the sign of any defect in the PIC16F1454 (which I feared could have place because of desoldering/resoldering of the chip). When the chip is programmed with the the ATU-10_prog device appears in the list.

Nice one Tony, glad you've now got it sorted!

Robbie M1ROK

Dear Robert!

Thank you for the elaborated answer.
I thought everyone who built the ATU-10 device knows that there is no connection between the power supply network of PIC16F1454 and the pad #2 of the programming connector.

My problem is solved now - I added that connection and the chips programms just nicely.
I will make this correction on my version of the PCB. My project goals are discussed here (and here are some previous corrections).

Warmest regards,
Tony

Hi Tony,

I can't understand your comment re the wire to supply the voltage to the programmer. All you need are the five connections from the PICkit 3 to the five points (J2) on the ATU-10 PCB. You shouldn't require any other wires. You do need to power up the ATU-10 board via its USB port so the PIC can get its supply.

When it comes to the MPLAB suite you need the IPE app for programming the device, not the IDE which is used for creating the code to put on the PICs. If you've downloaded the suite it should be on your PC somewhere, normally both app shortcuts appear on the desktop during the installation unless informed not to.

Start up the IPE, go to Settings/Advanced Mode and enter the password, 'microchip' if it's a fresh install.

Click on Power, under voltage options 'power target from PICkit 3' should be selected already, select 3V375 from the voltage level drop-down options.

Under programming options, the 'use low voltage programming' option is unchecked, and change the programming method drop-down to the one that says 'recommended'.

Now click on the 'Operate' tab, the device drop-down selection should be the 1454, the tool should show the connected PICkit 3. Click on connect which should, after a short period, show the device ID of the connected PIC. Add the hex file to the appropriate file selection window below the row of big buttons and then click the 'Program' big button. Should only take about 10s or less to do its thing and there it is, one programmed 1454.

You can now carry on with the build.

Hope this helps get you sorted. All the best.

Robbie M1ROK

Dear Robbie,

Thank you for the comments!
My previous attempts were made WITHOUT the wire that would supply the voltage from the programmer, so the chip was powered with 3,3 volts throughout.

(I've downloaded, installed and tried to run the MPLAB X IDE v6. It is SO huge - I was lost immediatelly. Where is the programming functionality there? I doubt it recognised my PICkit 2 clone either...)

Warm regards,
Tony