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I would like to remove the aluminum sill and see what is holding it up at the edge and reinstall.? Got a 2005 Sport weekender.
The outside edge is tipped up a bit, tried to pound it down, but futile.
I saw two small screws at the inner corners where the lip meets the verticals lips/jamb.
Is there anything else holding the rest or is is just caulked in place?

Think I heard of someone here modifying the door sill for rubbing using PEM studs (flush head fasteners) to squeeze it tighter to the floor, but not sure there is enough give for that.? Also, I have the shorter camper, 9 foot box, and don't think I am getting much frame deformation.? Doesn't matter if I jump on the bumper or jack the stabilizers(only have rear), the door drags on the sill, bad in the middle and is wearing to a sharp edge.
So, I am looking to remove it and see what is getting in the way.

Thanks all,
Charlie

--
Don DeRyke
Sunrise, Florida

2009 Classic, 2020 Ford Escape, 2.0 liter EcoBoost, AWD.?
Previous TV 2015 Ford Escape 1.6 ltr EcoBoost engine.

Sill removal was easy, cut the 2 corner rivets. Slid a flat blade under the sill to cut the caulk. Also blade under the front edge. That is all that was holding it.?

Posted in today's floor rot more details of the door rubbing issue being defect in the way the factory didn't trim enough off the aluminum wrap that wraps under the plywood. That is what held the sill up on the outer edge.?

Got it done.? ?Had to remove the lower door so the sill could rotate upwards for removal/install.
After the sill was off, used the multitool to cut the aluminum edge wrap so the sill could sit lower at the outer edge.? Dug out the rotted plywood, only a few inches turned to flakey dust.? ?Cut the linoleum back so only the rear edge of the sill would sit on it so I would force some drainage tilt.? Sanded the outer edge of the plywood a bit to improve tile some more.? ?Cut a piece of 3/8" plywood to slide into the rot void.

The most difficult was cleaning the old caulk from the sill.? Then put a layer of caulk into the rot void, slide the plywood in and filled the rest of the void.? (was using some clear metal roofing caulk) Covered the entire area where the sill goes with caulk, making sure I filled the corners well.? Rotated the sill into place, applied 2 new pop rivets.? Caulked under the outer edge of the sill and clamped it so there was a slope.??

The quarter round trim on the inside edge of the sill was stapled, removed the staples, drilled the holes to make sure the rivets had a good pocket, then applied some caulk along the sill to push the trim piece into. (no staples).

Allowed to dry for about a week just to be sure and reinstalled the door.? Put a new piece of weather strip on the back lip of the sill.? Door now has good clearance and don't think the stabilizers will cause any trouble.

I noticed that the door sill on my newer model Classic did not completely cover the outer edge of the plywood floor, allowing water to splash against it and possibly get under it. The edge of the floor did not appear to be treated like the bottom and could be an area where rot would start. I sealed this exposed area with silicone caulk and will keep an eye on it.