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Carl: That’s a lot of welding damage for an overheat vs. full short, but it could happen if the dissimilar metals (aluminum/copper) along with a loose connection could have heated enough to

Looks to me from your second pic that the welding you saw there was due to a short ahead of the breakers. Usually when there’s a heat-related failure, you see melting and slow deterioration, not

Here is what one bad connection can do: /g/A-frameCamperForum/photo/124255/1486295?p=Name%2C%2CTerminal%2C20%2C1%2C0%2C0 And the breakers didn't trip. Carl.

Your road analysis is accurate. Is it safe? Probably, provided that the overall setup doesn't overheat. Just because all roads lead to one doesn't mean there's an issue if the accumulated loads

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Steve T: Aware of the fridge power profile "in real life", but thanks for the reminder. I also discovered the fridge cabinet is unvented, and I'm thinking I want to fix that. We have an awesome

Appreciate all the details in your reply, Steve T. The DC Aux outlet in question is the one inside the reefer cabinet, specifically for powering the reefer. Per the dealer who handled the original

Nobody I've seen has ever posted the results of towing at speed with the roof up, so I can't tell you from experience as to whether that worked. I doubt anyone else can either.? Some of us have towed

Your tow vehicle can be a great generator in most cases. It's quiet, gas friendly and doesn't require lugging gas cans or watchfulness during operation. You would need a length of very heavy

I misrepresented the question. I should have asked would the roof be affected or damaged. Thanks

Speed and distance would be the issue, and whether or not you have wind protection.? Personally, I'd cut or remove the bungees and get three or four people to support the roof and pull the spring

The question would be how fast can you go. Whatever wind speed you can safely handle is your answer. Do what you can to secure it from collapsing. Diego Saiz

Can an Aliner in the up position be transported on a rollback, (flatbed) trailer without damage to the walls?? Can't lower the walls without damage to a weak spring support (wood)

For lifepo4 you have to get a new converter anyways. ?Adding the wire upgrade to the task is not that much more work. ?But good point that the wire upgrade is needed. I personally hate running a

I wouldn't be so quick to consider 50amp charging all the other stuff is a quick fix . The 50amp charging would require rewiring the lines to the battery.? 30amp charging is usually sufficient and

Don, if you upgrade your wiring, put in 4 awg wires from your battery to your converter.? Doing that in my trailer increased my battery charge rate by up to 70%.

Lashru, also be aware that your fridge is a high consumer of electricity.? The specs say it uses 34 amp hours in 24 hours time, with temps in the 70s.? That will almost double if the temps are in

I like the terminal block setup.? I really should do this as I put my camper back together.? But I'm afraid I'll get anxious and lazy and just wire it back like it was.? Maybe not.? They camper

"Running new wires is easier than pulling that 14 gauge out of all the zip ties all along its path." It's also a good way to increase wire gauge without having to remove any wires - just run a

Here is a nice terminal installation, note aluminium ground bus bar. Carl. /g/A-frameCamperForum/photo/123837/1483532?p=Name%2C%2CWire%2C20%2C1%2C0%2C