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That FJD folding panel is a terrific deal at the $189 price it lists at now.? It's a lightweight plastic panel, built with the ETFE material, which is the good stuff. It also has 4 pieces, so it

Yahoo Mail: Search, Organize, Conquer On Tue, Sep 3, 2024 at 8:23 PM, Steve T<srtimm@...> wrote: The price points quoted might be a bit optimistic.? Just looking around I couldn't

The price points quoted might be a bit optimistic.? Just looking around I couldn't see stuff quite as cheap as mentioned, unless you bought from somewhere like Temu, and I won't do that. You need

I like the idea of a power station, but weight *is* an issue, and I need a battery for breakaway switch, electric brake controller, & the rest of the 7-pin functions. (I'd also love to move the

A couple of thoughts. You don't have to change the whole converter you can just disable the dc power supply (disconnect the AC that feeds it, by disconnecting the wire from the AC breaker) and add a

Negative bus bar it is! I know it needs to be sized to match the max expected load - is that the nominal 30A of the converter, or is it the sum of max amps for all things powering from the

My 2020 Ranger 12 came with 11 stranded wires crammed into a single wire nut. I replaced that with a bus bar. The stranded wires must be tinned with solder to work reliably with a screw terminal bus

You have to install the bus bar where the converter is, which is also where all the wires are too. It wouldn't make sense to splice extensions on all your wires to have the bus bar anywhere else. I

Question for the Group:? I see recommendations for installing a bus bar for the circuit grounds. Where is the bus bar typically installed? Thank you in advance for your reply(s).? Scott B

I have a 2012 Aliner Classic.Discussion a long time ago, was to put in a bus bar for all the neutral/grounds.? If one of the wire nuts loosened, and the white wire lost contact, then that circuit was

Carl: That’s a lot of welding damage for an overheat vs. full short, but it could happen if the dissimilar metals (aluminum/copper) along with a loose connection could have heated enough to

Looks to me from your second pic that the welding you saw there was due to a short ahead of the breakers. Usually when there’s a heat-related failure, you see melting and slow deterioration, not

Here is what one bad connection can do: /g/A-frameCamperForum/photo/124255/1486295?p=Name%2C%2CTerminal%2C20%2C1%2C0%2C0 And the breakers didn't trip. Carl.

Your road analysis is accurate. Is it safe? Probably, provided that the overall setup doesn't overheat. Just because all roads lead to one doesn't mean there's an issue if the accumulated loads

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Steve T: Aware of the fridge power profile "in real life", but thanks for the reminder. I also discovered the fridge cabinet is unvented, and I'm thinking I want to fix that. We have an awesome

Appreciate all the details in your reply, Steve T. The DC Aux outlet in question is the one inside the reefer cabinet, specifically for powering the reefer. Per the dealer who handled the original

Nobody I've seen has ever posted the results of towing at speed with the roof up, so I can't tell you from experience as to whether that worked. I doubt anyone else can either.? Some of us have towed

Your tow vehicle can be a great generator in most cases. It's quiet, gas friendly and doesn't require lugging gas cans or watchfulness during operation. You would need a length of very heavy

I misrepresented the question. I should have asked would the roof be affected or damaged. Thanks