Carl put eternabond there because the seal behind the hinge leaked.? That doesn't seem to be your problem.
I wouldn't use eternabond.? Given that the "Digesil" silicone remover can dissolve the old caulk, I'd use that and recaulk.? It will still require elbow grease though.
The problem with eternabond is that it's extremely difficult to remove, if that becomes necessary.
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I like the Eternabond tape (note actual name). Easy application, seals very well, holds up in weather for years. Can look good if very carefully applied. Expensive but worth it. Available in various widths and lengths. Cost varies a lot from seller to seller so shop carefully. Good luck. Really nice job from what the photos show. And you did it all yourself!
On Wed, Aug 3, 2022 at 5:08 PM KATHRYN BAXTER < kmb442@...> wrote: Carl,
How do you like the edurobond tape? I've heard mixed reviews.? I'm thinking of using it. Looks neater than my caulk. I think I narrowed the leak to the bottom where the tin meets the back wall. It was a bad caulking job there (mot mine).
Hello
Kathryn:
Looks
like a good start. What sort of saw do you have to cut back to
good wood? Saber saw or oscillating saw would work fine. Even
a hand keyhole saw could do the job, but it would take a bit
of elbow grease.
If it
has dried out I might soak it with paint. Use oil based paint
and thin it 2:1 with paint thinner. This will soak in like
crazy, but should fill all the voids where the water has been.
Put something under the camper, this could leak out. Then when
the paint dries do the plywood sandwich.
If you
still want to replace the spot next to the wheel well here is
how to cut it out. An oscillating saw can cut straight in, a
saber or key hole saw will need a starting hole.
If you
have any moisture left, use a fan or even an electric heater
to dry everything. Do you have the extra flaps on the roof
corners? They help keep the water away from the corner and
then inside.
![]()
Our
hinge seals had failed so I covered them with Edurobond tape.
The aluminum flap I made from some scrap aluminum and pop
rivets. Corner handle still needs to be replaced.
You
will be able to do this, and then anything else you want to
fix!
Carl.
On 7/25/2022 3:54 PM, KATHRYN BAXTER
wrote:
Ok. Hope you guys are still with me. I'm all in
now.?
What's the easiest way to get that piece in the
wheel well? ]I really don't want to mess with the wiring.
|
Carl,
How do you like the edurobond tape? I've heard mixed reviews.? I'm thinking of using it. Looks neater than my caulk. I think I narrowed the leak to the bottom where the tin meets the back wall. It was a bad caulking job there (mot mine).
Hello
Kathryn:
Looks
like a good start. What sort of saw do you have to cut back to
good wood? Saber saw or oscillating saw would work fine. Even
a hand keyhole saw could do the job, but it would take a bit
of elbow grease.
If it
has dried out I might soak it with paint. Use oil based paint
and thin it 2:1 with paint thinner. This will soak in like
crazy, but should fill all the voids where the water has been.
Put something under the camper, this could leak out. Then when
the paint dries do the plywood sandwich.
If you
still want to replace the spot next to the wheel well here is
how to cut it out. An oscillating saw can cut straight in, a
saber or key hole saw will need a starting hole.
If you
have any moisture left, use a fan or even an electric heater
to dry everything. Do you have the extra flaps on the roof
corners? They help keep the water away from the corner and
then inside.
Our
hinge seals had failed so I covered them with Edurobond tape.
The aluminum flap I made from some scrap aluminum and pop
rivets. Corner handle still needs to be replaced.
You
will be able to do this, and then anything else you want to
fix!
Carl.
On 7/25/2022 3:54 PM, KATHRYN BAXTER
wrote:
Ok. Hope you guys are still with me. I'm all in
now.?
What's the easiest way to get that piece in the
wheel well? ]I really don't want to mess with the wiring.
|
The website thwarted your attempts to attach a photo.? Time to try again.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Wed, Aug 3, 2022 at 03:27 PM, mark rosenberg wrote:
Hi All,
In addition to the frame deformation issue, I've just wound up with a rear roof side deformation issue. No accidents have occurred. Photos attached.
Has anyone run into similar issues; how have you repaired this deformation.
?On Wed, Aug 3, 2022 at 03:27 PM, mark rosenberg wrote:
Hi All,
In addition to the frame deformation issue, I've just wound up with a rear roof side deformation issue. No accidents have occurred. Photos attached.
Has anyone run into similar issues; how have you repaired this deformation.
|
Hi All,
In addition to the frame deformation issue, I've just wound up with a rear roof side deformation issue. No accidents have occurred. Photos attached.
Has anyone run into similar issues; how have you repaired this deformation.
|
We just lock the latches out using medium size padlocks when we travel that are identical n use the same key. I carry one key n my partner carries the other. Scott B
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On 8/2/2022 1:52 PM, zbestowed wrote: Third, we use a good size clip I found that the clips from old dog leashes work great. Dave
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First, we make sure the latch is tightly secure, not able to jump off when hitting bumps. Second, the back side is painted red, so it is obviously visible if not secured. Third, we use a good size clip. ?Please excuse the paint, this is an old XL1935!
.  
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metal-lobster-claw-clasps-for-lanyard-
Don't need 50 a advertised in the link, or on Amazon.? Just showing a picture of what I use.? I had a bunch of old lanyards with?
lobster claw so I just cut the lanyard material off and used the clips.? Been working just fine and cheap.
https://www.amazon.com/CRAFTMEmore-Swivel-Lobster-Purse-Landyard/dp/B07DLQB1F1/ref=asc_df_B07DLQB1F1/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=242063201482&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=15844260586460979698&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9060505&hvtargid=pla-487995477103&th=1
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We use two of the small suitcase type locks.? They secure the latch from accidently coming loose (which it shouldn't) and also adds a bit of security to keep someone from opening the latch...or worse, opening the camper.? We keep these lock well lubed.
?
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Hi
Gang:
Yes, we
have an older Aliner, 2000, with the 3" frame. But the roof
came loose in Lexington, South Carolina on a US highway.
I can
see how the stock toggle clamps are OK on fabric pop ups where
there are 4 and the roof is held down by the lifting
mechanism.
If I
still had the stock clamps, I would add a safety latch or a
chain. I've never had my trailer come off the hitch, but I
still use the safety chains.
Carl.
On 8/1/2022 11:18 PM, dan smartt via
groups.io wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
I've been towing for 5 + years in southwest Utah, Nevada etcc..
even some terrible roads in Arizona (most are even their freeways)
high speed - lol speed - never had an issue with the factory
installed tied clamps using clips.
Happy camping?
On Mon, Aug 1, 2022 at 11:27 AM, Robert Singleton
Have logged many hours on dirt roads, some with
severe washboard and never have had this problem.?
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I've never had in issue, and use nothing.? As long as the adjuster nuts are set properly, the latches don't pop loose.
The one issue that could change things though, is that if you have an Aliner with 3" beams, those trailers are more flexible than mine which has 4" beams.? The 3" beams may be more susceptible to the latches coming loose.
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My rig is off square and roof is worse but has never come loose at the clamps. Plus I added the front to back roof-joining horizontal clamps so they will keep roof movement more minimized (as well as minimizing frame bending forces) so those might help you with your vertical clamp issue. ?
I've been towing for 5 + years in southwest Utah, Nevada etcc.. even some terrible roads in Arizona (most are even their freeways) high speed - lol speed - never had an issue with the factory installed tied clamps using clips.
Happy camping? On Mon, Aug 1, 2022 at 11:27 AM, Robert Singleton Have logged many hours on dirt roads, some with severe washboard and never have had this problem.?
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I've been towing for 5 + years in southwest Utah, Nevada etcc.. even some terrible roads in Arizona (most are even their freeways) high speed - lol speed - never had an issue with the factory installed tied clamps using clips.
On Mon, Aug 1, 2022 at 11:27 AM, Robert Singleton <robsingleton@...> wrote: Have logged many hours on dirt roads, some with severe washboard and never have had this problem.?
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I did use a layer of flashing over the patches. A little worried about moisture getting under that.will caulk edges and also use a flashing tape on the edges.
? Comment:? This is the best of the various advice postings I¡¯ve seen on this topic, except that I would never use a rubberized moisture sealant on the underside of the floor.? It¡¯s not true that water intrusion only comes from above.? Waterproofing using a sealant under the floor can crack over time, and when it does, moisture from the road gets into the cracks, and can¡¯t get out, so it sits trapped in there and rots the surrounding wood.? ? My advice: use the oil primer and paint advice, skip the rubberized undercoating. ? Dave ? ? ? ¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡.. ? I would paint it with an oil based primer and then oil based enamel. Primer is the magic sauce that makes paint stick.? No primer, no stick.
I'd also paint the plywood sheets before you install them, so you get the areas that will be covered after install.? Then a final coat after you screw on the reinforcements over the joints.
Don't put the rubberized paint on bare wood.? I don't think it will stick.? I just got done peeling some silicone rubber caulk off bare wood in my fridge compartment.? It was really easy because the silicone rubber didn't stick at all to the bare wood.
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Thanks Dave. Going with enamel
? Comment:? This is the best of the various advice postings I¡¯ve seen on this topic, except that I would never use a rubberized moisture sealant on the underside of the floor.? It¡¯s not true that water intrusion only comes from above.? Waterproofing using a sealant under the floor can crack over time, and when it does, moisture from the road gets into the cracks, and can¡¯t get out, so it sits trapped in there and rots the surrounding wood.? ? My advice: use the oil primer and paint advice, skip the rubberized undercoating. ? Dave ? ? ? ¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡.. ? I would paint it with an oil based primer and then oil based enamel. Primer is the magic sauce that makes paint stick.? No primer, no stick.
I'd also paint the plywood sheets before you install them, so you get the areas that will be covered after install.? Then a final coat after you screw on the reinforcements over the joints.
Don't put the rubberized paint on bare wood.? I don't think it will stick.? I just got done peeling some silicone rubber caulk off bare wood in my fridge compartment.? It was really easy because the silicone rubber didn't stick at all to the bare wood.
|
? Comment:? This is the best of the various advice postings I¡¯ve seen on this topic, except that I would never use a rubberized moisture sealant on the underside of the floor.? It¡¯s not true that water intrusion only comes from above.? Waterproofing using a sealant under the floor can crack over time, and when it does, moisture from the road gets into the cracks, and can¡¯t get out, so it sits trapped in there and rots the surrounding wood.? ? My advice: use the oil primer and paint advice, skip the rubberized undercoating. ? Dave ? ? ? ¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡.. ? I would paint it with an oil based primer and then oil based enamel. Primer is the magic sauce that makes paint stick.? No primer, no stick.
I'd also paint the plywood sheets before you install them, so you get the areas that will be covered after install.? Then a final coat after you screw on the reinforcements over the joints.
Don't put the rubberized paint on bare wood.? I don't think it will stick.? I just got done peeling some silicone rubber caulk off bare wood in my fridge compartment.? It was really easy because the silicone rubber didn't stick at all to the bare wood.
|
Have logged many hours on dirt roads, some with severe washboard and never have had this problem.?
|
Hi
Gang:
Putting
a pad lock or a clip on the hasp does little to secure the
roof. All that keeps the roof down are the small ledges
between the toggle and the roof latch:
It
would almost work if the hasp were attached to the roof part,
but you can see there is just the minor lip to hold.
After
the factory clips came loose twice on an early trip I replaced
them with industrial toggle clamps. I had to machine the top
sockets from aluminum, but once locked there is no way the
roof is getting loose. The toggles didn't come with a hasp, so
I added some Velcro straps to keep the toggles latched. They
have never budged. Latter I did add a padlock hasp for
security in a hotel parking lot, but it provides no roof
clamping.
Here it
is latched and ready to roll.
Source:
or
Carl.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On 8/1/2022 12:26 PM, stephen boyce wrote:
Small combination locks.?
Just
wondering what folks use to secure their Aliner roof latches
to prevent accidental opening when traveling?
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David Connet
Carl
