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Re: AC
Yes. On both sides of AC. But not my big concern now, if you see my other post.? On Sat, Jul 23, 2022, 7:46 PM Carl <carl.blum@...> wrote:
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Re: AC
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýHello Steve: Hard to know unless you have X-ray vision. Not all rivets have the same size head / shank combination. Even if you use the right size drilling out a rivet will usually end up with a slightly larger hole. The bigger question is: Is it a rivet that needs to be removed? Carl. On 7/23/2022 5:59 PM, Steve T wrote:
If someone could tell her the drill bit size that would help.? Too big a bit and you can't put in a new rivet of the same size.? Too small a bit and it won't come out. |
Ugh bigger problems than AC
So, I'm cleaning out after a trip and? noted that the floor felt spongey under the rear bed. Found this. Nothing wet that I can see but it must have been at one time because it all just flaked out. Solid board all around it. I'm guessing the whole floor has to be replaced, or can it be patched ? Needless to say will NOT attempted this myself. |
Re: AC
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýHello Kathryn: That is a Pop-Rivet and needs to be drilled out. Carl. On 7/23/2022 3:02 PM, KATHRYN BAXTER
wrote:
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Re: AC
Ok,so how do we remove? this? Do they just pop off or is there a tool,? On Sat, Jul 23, 2022, 1:57 PM David Martin <refrigman45@...> wrote:
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Re: AC
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýAgreeIf you can find a new unit that fits, get a new unit. You will save yourself a couple of weekends to end at the same result? Diego Saiz On Jul 23, 2022, at 1:57 PM, David Martin <refrigman45@...> wrote:
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Re: AC
Repair typically does not pay on a small AC. If not just the fan but also the noisier compressor runs without cooling there is either a coolant leak or a bad compressor. Either calls for replacing the whole thing. Since replacements are new, quieter, more energy efficient it makes more sense to take that route even if a smaller fixable problem is causing the no cool issue. And anything requires removal in any case so replacing adds the same effort as long as size and configuration are close.? On Sat, Jul 23, 2022 at 7:10 AM KATHRYN BAXTER <kmb442@...> wrote:
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Re: AC
For those of you with the LG Air conditioner, have you looked inside it after it runs for a while?? For these window AC units, (I have one too) they accumulate about 1/4 inch of water in the bottom, and then the fan, which is called a? "slinger fan", sprays the water on the condenser coils to improve cooling power.? But that 1/4" of water in the bottom of the AC is going to splash all over the electronics inside the AC when you drive.? Not good.??
For the Aliner AC units that stick out the side, I'd drill a hole in the bottom of the AC to drain that water.? For units installed under the bench seat like mine, I suck the water out with a giant syringe before I travel. |
Re: AC
¿ªÔÆÌåÓýWhat runs?I guess you mean the fan runs. Check to see if the compressor also runs. Is it getting hot? You may have to disassemble a few parts to get to it If the compressor is running you may have a gas leak (unlikely) and need a new AC unit If the compressor is not running you may troubleshoot that Diego Saiz On Jul 23, 2022, at 10:10 AM, KATHRYN BAXTER <kmb442@...> wrote:
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Re: Frame
¿ªÔÆÌåÓý? When you do the weldment, think about overcompensating a bit when you jack the rear frame, so the added tube will settle into the position you desire.? Or make the spacer removable so you can add more if needed for proper elevation.? I¡¯ve found that frame members settle under the load of the camper floor¡ ? Dave ? ¡¡¡¡¡¡¡¡. ? ¡I am going to weld this tube in place, and add a 1/4" spacer on top to keep the back wall at the proper elevation.?.. |
Re: Frame
Today, I confirmed one of my theories about my door alignment issues.? That the camper box itself, is settling over the trailer frame.? While toying with my hitch receiver and bumper reinforcement plan I put a piece of 3" x 1-1/2"? steel tube side to side under the rear of the camper floor, where I would install it for a hitch receiver.? I had to put a floor jack under it to raise it up flush with the trailer main frame tubes.? That revealed that the camper floor had in fact settled in the back due to previous water damage.? It was fairly evident by the way the diamond plate that's wrapped around the bottom edge of the rear wall, was crushed over the mainframe tubes.? The results of raising the back with a jack and supporting it underneath was immediate.? I went to the door, which would normally be slightly binding at this time, and it swung open freely, with about an 1/8" clearance at the bottom on the strike side.? I then put the A walls down to see if the top to bottom gap in the lower door had changed.? It had.? I found that if I raised the back an additional 1/4", the margin of the door from top to bottom was even.? So until I do a complete floor replacement, I am going to weld this tube in place, and add a 1/4" spacer on top to keep the back wall at the proper elevation.? It's interesting that the front wall is continuously supported with a C channel.? Had they done that in the rear, this probably would not have happened.
Although the frame may be deformed, I do not believe it is.? I will check it tomorrow with a dry line. Don DeRyke Sunrise, Florida 2009 Classic, 2020 Ford Escape, 2.0 liter EcoBoost, AWD.? Previous TV 2015 Ford Escape 1.6 ltr EcoBoost engine. |
Re: Frame
¿ªÔÆÌåÓý? ? Dave, I just reread your article about the frame.? I want to add a bike rack receiver to the camper that is not dependent on the bumper.? Aliner does not recommend anything be added to the rear bumper, or the frame behind the axle.? I don't go on any seriously rough roads, but the camper certainly bounces enough on the highways at bridges etc.?? ? ?> I agree with CNW: Nothing should be added to the rear bumper on a 3¡± frame. Besides the obvious structural issues, I wonder why one would want to attach bikes to the camper instead of the tow vehicle, since typically the bike paths are located in places accessible by car, not as usually near one¡¯s campsite.? But to each their own¡ ? ?> Because you want the bending force to be a concentrated as practical on the frame members near the door opening, since that¡¯s likely the location where frame deformation has occurred.? An ¡°S¡± shaped frame won¡¯t serve you as well¡
? ?> I haven¡¯t tested either of these assumptions, but my gut reaction is NO, neither will be strong enough.
? ?> This is the design CNW uses in their later campers to reinforce the rear of the frame for the rear receiver.? My original frame deformation findings were on campers without this extra cross member.? ? ?> While this design may provide sufficient strength for a receiver, the fact remains that you have introduced a lot of added weight at the end of a long cantilever, which may result in frame distortion, especially in 3¡± x 2¡± frames.? I do not recommend doing this on a 3¡± frame, especially if you¡¯re already seeing symptoms of frame deformation. |
Re: Torquing wheel nuts
Whatever wrench you get make sure it has an extension that reaches the wheel without the wall getting in the way.? The post that comes off the lug nut is not long enough in some cases.
Torque wrenches will certainly help, but they also are not absolutely mandatory.? If you have steel wheels, it's almost impossible to overtighten them.? Just tighten them as hard as you can.? Aluminum wheels, however,? need a bit more precision on the torque. The wrench I use is one like this: If you get one like it make sure it has the lug nut size that you have on your wheel.? I like it because it reaches under the wall to the wheel, and is not too short.? Plus you grab the cross bars and pull up with one hand and down with the other.? That gives you lots of centered leverage, and you're not pulling sideways on the lug nut, causing the wrench to pop off.?? When you put on a brand new wheel (not tire, but wheel), you should retighten the lug nuts after the breakin period.? The holes in the wheel need to stretch and seat properly, and the paint needs to be ground off.? But after breakin the wheel is unlikely to loosen.?? The other thing I'd recommend is that whenever you get the wheels put on by a tire shop, loosen each lug nut one at a time and make sure it comes off, then retighten.? Some shops put the lug nuts on so tight it takes a gorilla to loosen them.? Also sometimes a shop will cross thread a lug nut and it will have to be broken to remove it.? You want to find that out before you have a flat on the road.? If a lug nut won't come off, you round up your neighbor gorilla, or take it to a shop.?? |
Re: Frame
Dave, I just reread your article about the frame.? I want to add a bike rack receiver to the camper that is not dependent on the bumper.? Aliner does not recommend anything be added to the rear bumper, or the frame behind the axle.? I don't go on any seriously rough roads, but the camper certainly bounces enough on the highways at bridges etc.??
That said, I want to do this as structurally sound as I can, but I want to address the frame, and reinforcing of it first.? I have a lot of the symptoms you describe, but I think some of it is related to past water damage which has softened the perimeter flooring, and it sags in various areas.? So I think part of the problem is the box is settling over the frame.? Someday I may remove the camper box and install new flooring, but it's not broke enough yet. A couple questions about the rebending.? * You mentioned jacking the frame up just past the gusset.? Why wouldn't that be done as far back as possible near the bumper? * Do you think a 4" concrete slab would be strong enough to hold an anchor to create the "Hard Point" needed?? If not, how about a 3 or 4 foot long screw anchor into the ground like used in mobile home tie downs? *? Also any thoughts on design for the receiver?? I'm thinking of a pair of 3x2 steel tubes crosswise to hold the receiver to avoid utilizing the bumper at all.? But another part of me thinks the bumper if reinforced with angle brackets at the frame, could serve as one of the two cross members for the receiver.? It was twisting of the bumper by the bikes bouncing that caused mine to tear, not downward force. Any and all comments appreciated.?? -- Don DeRyke Sunrise, Florida 2009 Classic, 2020 Ford Escape, 2.0 liter EcoBoost, AWD.? Previous TV 2015 Ford Escape 1.6 ltr EcoBoost engine. |
Re: Torquing wheel nuts
Don Knabb
I bought a torque wrench and the socket recently for our LXE. I found the 1/2 inch drive to be over the top for the torque needed, expensive and heavy. I went with a 3/8 drive Craftsman, which has the capacity for 90 ft lb. It works fine, easy and quick to do, it clicks when I reach 90 ft lb.
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Re: Torquing wheel nuts
1/2¡± drive torque wrench, preferably preset click type plus deep socket of lug nut size . Set proper torque, put socket onto torque wrench and tighten until the wrench clicks. Repeat for each lug nut. Do again at required intervals. Presto, done.? On Wed, Jul 20, 2022 at 8:35 PM dan smartt via <dansm=[email protected]> wrote: Harbor freight has torque wrenches and sockets.? |
Re: Torquing wheel nuts
Harbor freight has torque wrenches and sockets.?
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Happy camping Dan S
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