¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

ctrl + shift + ? for shortcuts
© 2025 Groups.io
  1. A-FrameCamperForum
  2. Messages
Expanded Topics Messages Polls
Date
Re: Chasing electrical issues in used 2022 Aliner Ranger 10

 

You have to install the bus bar where the converter is, which is also where all the wires are too. It wouldn't make sense to splice extensions on all your wires to have the bus bar anywhere else.
?
I would install the bus bars at the same time as you install bigger battery wires.? The bigger battery wires will require you to get bus bars that handle a wider range of wire sizes.? You don't want to do the whole bus bar thing over again to accommodate bigger battery wires installed later.
?
And as I said before, if you don't have room for bus bars, go with split bolts.? That's not as good as bus bars, but it solves the problem of cracking multistrand wires.? I have about 40 wires that come up in a 5" x 5" area, so no bus bars would fit there.
?
?
?
?
Re: Chasing electrical issues in used 2022 Aliner Ranger 10

 

Question for the Group:? I see recommendations for installing a bus bar for the circuit grounds. Where is the bus bar typically installed?

Thank you in advance for your reply(s).?

Scott B

On Thursday, August 29, 2024 at 05:13:06 PM EDT, LARRY B <lklaasen@...> wrote:


I have a 2012 Aliner Classic.
Discussion a long time ago, was to put in a bus bar for all the neutral/grounds.? If one of the wire nuts loosened, and the white wire lost contact, then that circuit was dead. And no fun finding the break in the circuit.? So, highly recommend putting in a bus bar.? Easy to get at hardware store, and easy to do.?

Good luck, Larry
Re: Chasing electrical issues in used 2022 Aliner Ranger 10

 

I have a 2012 Aliner Classic.
Discussion a long time ago, was to put in a bus bar for all the neutral/grounds.? If one of the wire nuts loosened, and the white wire lost contact, then that circuit was dead. And no fun finding the break in the circuit.? So, highly recommend putting in a bus bar.? Easy to get at hardware store, and easy to do.?

Good luck, Larry
Re: Chasing electrical issues in used 2022 Aliner Ranger 10

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Carl:

?

That¡¯s a lot of welding damage for an overheat vs. full short, but it could happen if the dissimilar metals (aluminum/copper) along with a loose connection could have heated enough to cause the damage.? Good reason to keep those connections protected in a service box.

?

Dave

?

From: CARL BLUM [mailto:carl.blum@...]
Sent: Thursday, August 29, 2024 1:12 PM
To: Dave Michaels
Subject: RE: [A-frameCamperForum] Chasing electrical issues in used 2022 Aliner Ranger 10

?

Hi Dave:

?

This happened while using an electric heater, 1500 watts. Not sure where the blob of aluminum came from, the wire was copper.?

?

Carl.?

On 08/29/2024 12:34 PM EDT Dave Michaels <airpilot1@...> wrote:

?

?

Looks to me from your second pic that the welding you saw there was due to a short ahead of the breakers. Usually when there¡¯s a heat-related failure, you see melting and slow deterioration, not like the explosive welding in the pic.

?

Dave

?

?

From: CARL BLUM [mailto:carl.blum@...]
Sent: Thursday, August 29, 2024 9:23 AM
To: [email protected]; elegy3983
Subject: Re: [A-frameCamperForum] Chasing electrical issues in used 2022 Aliner Ranger 10

?

Here is what one bad connection can do:

?

?

And the breakers didn't trip.

?

Carl.?

On 08/29/2024 7:40 AM EDT elegy3983 <airpilot1@...> wrote:

?

?

?

Your road analysis is accurate. Is it safe?? Probably, provided that the overall setup doesn¡¯t overheat.? Just because all roads lead to one doesn¡¯t mean there¡¯s an issue if the accumulated loads don¡¯t exceed that one lane wire¡¯s current flow rating.? Since it¡¯s a short length of wire, there¡¯s little line resistance to current flow, which is the cause of overheating.

So, how does one insure that there¡¯s no overheating?? The propensity to overheat comes from at least two sources: too much amperage draw through an undersized wire as described above, and heat produced by bad or dirty contacts between wires.?

1.???? When a single wire, such as that white one-lane road into your converter, is loaded with multiple loads, the single wire can overheat, since its resistance in the face of a large current could be enough to heat and soften its insulation, potentially baring the wire inside the insulation, which could short to a nearby power source.? But a short would likely pop a fuse, ending the threat.? This possibility hinges on whether all of the various loads are operating at the same time.? Since there¡¯s no way to insure that the loads are being managed, one should ideally design the wiring to handle all loads simultaneously.

2.??? When a wire is connected to another wire or to a circuit board, the connection itself is a potential heat generator.? A poor solder joint inside the converter could potentially overheat, but that¡¯s not as likely in my experience as overheating caused by an external connection, such as that huge wire nut collecting all those white ground wires.? Wire nuts were invented to bind solid wires, such as those in the Romex cable inside your home, and NOT to bind stranded wires, such as those in your camper. The solution for the huge wire nut is to connect each ground wire to a buss bar, so that each wire has its own mechanical connection point.? Then run a parallel ground wire (another lane, if you will) from the ground buss bar to the ground connection inside the converter.? This will require partially dissembling the converter and some soldering skills. (And, while we¡¯re talking about connections, those boxy quick splice connectors that penetrate insulation to make a connection are a prime source of heat and corrosion related connection failure, and should never be used in a camper, period!? Use a wire buss bar, solder or crimped butt connectors instead.)?

?

Dave

?

¡­¡­¡­¡­¡­¡­¡­¡­.

?

Using your highway analogy, right now, it appears I have half a dozen one-lane roads all feeding into another one-lane road that leads all the way into the city, and it seems like that would result in more crashes and overall congestion. I don't care about anything other than, is this installation *safe*?
Re: Chasing electrical issues in used 2022 Aliner Ranger 10

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

Looks to me from your second pic that the welding you saw there was due to a short ahead of the breakers. Usually when there¡¯s a heat-related failure, you see melting and slow deterioration, not like the explosive welding in the pic.

?

Dave

?

?

From: CARL BLUM [mailto:carl.blum@...]
Sent: Thursday, August 29, 2024 9:23 AM
To: [email protected]; elegy3983
Subject: Re: [A-frameCamperForum] Chasing electrical issues in used 2022 Aliner Ranger 10

?

Here is what one bad connection can do:

?

?

And the breakers didn't trip.

?

Carl.?

On 08/29/2024 7:40 AM EDT elegy3983 <airpilot1@...> wrote:

?

?

?

Your road analysis is accurate. Is it safe?? Probably, provided that the overall setup doesn¡¯t overheat.? Just because all roads lead to one doesn¡¯t mean there¡¯s an issue if the accumulated loads don¡¯t exceed that one lane wire¡¯s current flow rating.? Since it¡¯s a short length of wire, there¡¯s little line resistance to current flow, which is the cause of overheating.

So, how does one insure that there¡¯s no overheating?? The propensity to overheat comes from at least two sources: too much amperage draw through an undersized wire as described above, and heat produced by bad or dirty contacts between wires.?

1.???? When a single wire, such as that white one-lane road into your converter, is loaded with multiple loads, the single wire can overheat, since its resistance in the face of a large current could be enough to heat and soften its insulation, potentially baring the wire inside the insulation, which could short to a nearby power source.? But a short would likely pop a fuse, ending the threat.? This possibility hinges on whether all of the various loads are operating at the same time.? Since there¡¯s no way to insure that the loads are being managed, one should ideally design the wiring to handle all loads simultaneously.

2.??? When a wire is connected to another wire or to a circuit board, the connection itself is a potential heat generator.? A poor solder joint inside the converter could potentially overheat, but that¡¯s not as likely in my experience as overheating caused by an external connection, such as that huge wire nut collecting all those white ground wires.? Wire nuts were invented to bind solid wires, such as those in the Romex cable inside your home, and NOT to bind stranded wires, such as those in your camper. The solution for the huge wire nut is to connect each ground wire to a buss bar, so that each wire has its own mechanical connection point.? Then run a parallel ground wire (another lane, if you will) from the ground buss bar to the ground connection inside the converter.? This will require partially dissembling the converter and some soldering skills. (And, while we¡¯re talking about connections, those boxy quick splice connectors that penetrate insulation to make a connection are a prime source of heat and corrosion related connection failure, and should never be used in a camper, period!? Use a wire buss bar, solder or crimped butt connectors instead.)?

?

Dave

?

¡­¡­¡­¡­¡­¡­¡­¡­.

?

Using your highway analogy, right now, it appears I have half a dozen one-lane roads all feeding into another one-lane road that leads all the way into the city, and it seems like that would result in more crashes and overall congestion. I don't care about anything other than, is this installation *safe*?
Re: Chasing electrical issues in used 2022 Aliner Ranger 10

 

Here is what one bad connection can do:
?
/g/A-frameCamperForum/photo/124255/1486295?p=Name%2C%2CTerminal%2C20%2C1%2C0%2C0
?
And the breakers didn't trip.
?
Carl.?

On 08/29/2024 7:40 AM EDT elegy3983 <airpilot1@...> wrote:
?
?

?

Your road analysis is accurate. Is it safe?? Probably, provided that the overall setup doesn¡¯t overheat.? Just because all roads lead to one doesn¡¯t mean there¡¯s an issue if the accumulated loads don¡¯t exceed that one lane wire¡¯s current flow rating.? Since it¡¯s a short length of wire, there¡¯s little line resistance to current flow, which is the cause of overheating.

So, how does one insure that there¡¯s no overheating?? The propensity to overheat comes from at least two sources: too much amperage draw through an undersized wire as described above, and heat produced by bad or dirty contacts between wires.?

1.???? When a single wire, such as that white one-lane road into your converter, is loaded with multiple loads, the single wire can overheat, since its resistance in the face of a large current could be enough to heat and soften its insulation, potentially baring the wire inside the insulation, which could short to a nearby power source.? But a short would likely pop a fuse, ending the threat.? This possibility hinges on whether all of the various loads are operating at the same time.? Since there¡¯s no way to insure that the loads are being managed, one should ideally design the wiring to handle all loads simultaneously.

2.??? When a wire is connected to another wire or to a circuit board, the connection itself is a potential heat generator.? A poor solder joint inside the converter could potentially overheat, but that¡¯s not as likely in my experience as overheating caused by an external connection, such as that huge wire nut collecting all those white ground wires.? Wire nuts were invented to bind solid wires, such as those in the Romex cable inside your home, and NOT to bind stranded wires, such as those in your camper. The solution for the huge wire nut is to connect each ground wire to a buss bar, so that each wire has its own mechanical connection point.? Then run a parallel ground wire (another lane, if you will) from the ground buss bar to the ground connection inside the converter.? This will require partially dissembling the converter and some soldering skills. (And, while we¡¯re talking about connections, those boxy quick splice connectors that penetrate insulation to make a connection are a prime source of heat and corrosion related connection failure, and should never be used in a camper, period!? Use a wire buss bar, solder or crimped butt connectors instead.)?

?

Dave

?

¡­¡­¡­¡­¡­¡­¡­¡­.

?

Using your highway analogy, right now, it appears I have half a dozen one-lane roads all feeding into another one-lane road that leads all the way into the city, and it seems like that would result in more crashes and overall congestion. I don't care about anything other than, is this installation *safe*?
Re: Chasing electrical issues in used 2022 Aliner Ranger 10

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

?

Your road analysis is accurate. Is it safe?? Probably, provided that the overall setup doesn¡¯t overheat.? Just because all roads lead to one doesn¡¯t mean there¡¯s an issue if the accumulated loads don¡¯t exceed that one lane wire¡¯s current flow rating.? Since it¡¯s a short length of wire, there¡¯s little line resistance to current flow, which is the cause of overheating.

So, how does one insure that there¡¯s no overheating?? The propensity to overheat comes from at least two sources: too much amperage draw through an undersized wire as described above, and heat produced by bad or dirty contacts between wires.?

1.???? When a single wire, such as that white one-lane road into your converter, is loaded with multiple loads, the single wire can overheat, since its resistance in the face of a large current could be enough to heat and soften its insulation, potentially baring the wire inside the insulation, which could short to a nearby power source.? But a short would likely pop a fuse, ending the threat.? This possibility hinges on whether all of the various loads are operating at the same time.? Since there¡¯s no way to insure that the loads are being managed, one should ideally design the wiring to handle all loads simultaneously.

2.??? When a wire is connected to another wire or to a circuit board, the connection itself is a potential heat generator.? A poor solder joint inside the converter could potentially overheat, but that¡¯s not as likely in my experience as overheating caused by an external connection, such as that huge wire nut collecting all those white ground wires.? Wire nuts were invented to bind solid wires, such as those in the Romex cable inside your home, and NOT to bind stranded wires, such as those in your camper. The solution for the huge wire nut is to connect each ground wire to a buss bar, so that each wire has its own mechanical connection point.? Then run a parallel ground wire (another lane, if you will) from the ground buss bar to the ground connection inside the converter.? This will require partially dissembling the converter and some soldering skills. (And, while we¡¯re talking about connections, those boxy quick splice connectors that penetrate insulation to make a connection are a prime source of heat and corrosion related connection failure, and should never be used in a camper, period!? Use a wire buss bar, solder or crimped butt connectors instead.)?

?

Dave

?

¡­¡­¡­¡­¡­¡­¡­¡­.

?

Using your highway analogy, right now, it appears I have half a dozen one-lane roads all feeding into another one-lane road that leads all the way into the city, and it seems like that would result in more crashes and overall congestion. I don't care about anything other than, is this installation *safe*?
Re: Chasing electrical issues in used 2022 Aliner Ranger 10

 

Comments inline between <<<< and >>>>:
?
On Wed, Aug 28, 2024 at 02:43 PM, <lashru@...> wrote:
?
Appreciate all the details in your reply, Steve T.
?
The DC Aux outlet in question is the one inside the reefer cabinet, specifically for powering the reefer. Per the dealer who handled the original warranty replacement of the fridge, while the label says 5A peak draw, the mfr told the dealer they "can" draw more than 10A (the dealer said, they seemed to think this was "normal" and acceptable.) I based my estimate of 15A on the fact that the replaced fridge melted a 10A socket and wires on the RV electrician's workbench. (This fridge has now been replaced under the dregs of warranty. Don't know what the replacement will do, yet). And, again - hot lead is 10AWG, and potentially fridge can pull more than 10A. Since all these wires are in the open against bare wood, I'm inclined to over-engineer. (It's a short distance draw in an existing wire channel;
possibly I'd feel different if we were talking 25' and cutting new holes).
?
<<<<<All the people that posted max power consumption for your fridge saw less than 5 amps.? Anything greater than that must be the power spike on motor startup, which lasts less than a second.? I still think you're fine with 14 gauge wire if its only used by the fridge.
>>>>>>
?
I've finished tracing the 14AWG neg lead and it goes back to a massive cluster of neg leads wire-nutted to a 10AWG neg on the back of the converter. As you described. I know the circuit works already. My concern now is - all those other neg leads daisy-chaining into this one 14AWG negative lead back to the converter. That seems unwise to me. But complicated because apparently, with quick splices, the wires should be the same gauge.
?
<<<<<You say:
"14AWG neg lead and it goes back to a massive cluster of neg leads wire-nutted to a 10AWG neg on the back of the converter"
?
That implies a 14 awg wire goes from the fridge dc plug in outlet to the big wire nut, and a 10 awg wire goes from the wire nut to the converter.
?
Then you say:
?"all those other neg leads daisy-chaining into this one 14AWG negative lead back to the converter. "
?
That would imply that a 14awg wire is going from the wire nut to the converter.? That contradicts the earlier statement.? Which version is true?
?
Tracing the wires is quite hard. The wires are all white and they spiral through the bundle.? I've incorrectly traced wires sometimes until I cut the zip ties to open the bundle.
?
Look at the wires on the aux dc plug for the fridge.? Is the pos wire 10 awg and the neg wire 14 awg at that location?
?
>>>>>>

Using your highway analogy, right now, it appears I have half a dozen one-lane roads all feeding into another one-lane road that leads all the way into the city, and it seems like that would result in more crashes and overall congestion. I don't care about anything other than, is this installation *safe*?

Thanks for all the help!
-lashru

<<<<
Its normal and necessary for a wire nut to connect different sized wires.? You have a bunch of smaller wires coming from your appliances, and they combine together into one big wire to go to your converter (or your battery).? The thing that combines the wires is the wire nut.? Provided you have a 10 awg wire from the converter to neg wire nut, that is a safe and viable configuration.? ?Its not the easiest to work with, however, and terminal blocks or split bolts are better if you need to add or remove stuff.
?
Now let me give you a bit bigger picture of the wiring in your trailer.? You have 3 power sources coming into you trailer.? You have the battery, the bargman cable plugged into your vehicle, and the converter that supplies power when the trailer is plugged into shore power (a wall outlet).? All 3 of these sources have a negative wire going into that big wire nut with all the appliance ground wires.? All three of these wires should be 10 awg or more.
?
All three of these sources also have a positive wire coming into a different big wire nut for the positive side of the circuit.? These wires should also be 10 awg or bigger.? There are no appliance wires in this bundle, because the appliance wires all go to a fuse in the converter, which is connected to the positive bundle via the positive converter wire.
?
If you upgrade to a 50 amp converter, you'll have to replace both the pos and neg battery wires, and the pos and neg converter wires. You don't need to (and can't) upgrade the bargman wires.? You probably also will have to break up the negative wire nuts to more wire nuts (or more split bolts or a set of terminal blocks) because they get too fat.
?
>>>>
?
Re: Chasing electrical issues in used 2022 Aliner Ranger 10

 

Steve T:
Aware of the fridge power profile "in real life", but thanks for the reminder.
I also discovered the fridge cabinet is unvented, and I'm thinking I want to fix that. We have an awesome electrical supply place nearby and I've already jerry-rigged a couple of computer fans to a switched DC aux socket before, so the only real question is where to place the vent. In an ideal world, I'd set up a thermostat-activated fan.

The LiFePo4 battery and solar are in the works. I spent my budget for that back in June on the unplanned electrical repairs :/ I want enough that we could opt for no hookup if necessary for a night or two, not planning any extended boondocking.

-lashru
Re: Chasing electrical issues in used 2022 Aliner Ranger 10

 

Appreciate all the details in your reply, Steve T.

The DC Aux outlet in question is the one inside the reefer cabinet, specifically for powering the reefer. Per the dealer who handled the original warranty replacement of the fridge, while the label says 5A peak draw, the mfr told the dealer they "can" draw more than 10A (the dealer said, they seemed to think this was "normal" and acceptable.) I based my estimate of 15A on the fact that the replaced fridge melted a 10A socket and wires on the RV electrician's workbench. (This fridge has now been replaced under the dregs of warranty. Don't know what the replacement will do, yet). And, again - hot lead is 10AWG, and potentially fridge can pull more than 10A. Since all these wires are in the open against bare wood, I'm inclined to over-engineer. (It's a short distance draw in an existing wire channel; possibly I'd feel different if we were talking 25' and cutting new holes).

I've finished tracing the 14AWG neg lead and it goes back to a massive cluster of neg leads wire-nutted to a 10AWG neg on the back of the converter. As you described. I know the circuit works already. My concern now is - all those other neg leads daisy-chaining into this one 14AWG negative lead back to the converter. That seems unwise to me. But complicated because apparently, with quick splices, the wires should be the same gauge.

Using your highway analogy, right now, it appears I have half a dozen one-lane roads all feeding into another one-lane road that leads all the way into the city, and it seems like that would result in more crashes and overall congestion. I don't care about anything other than, is this installation *safe*?

Thanks for all the help!
-lashru
Re: Transporting an Aliner

 

Nobody I've seen has ever posted the results of towing at speed with the roof up, so I can't tell you from experience as to whether that worked. I doubt anyone else can either.? Some of us have towed with the roof up through the campground at 5 mph to move to a new site, and that does a lot of creaking and doesn't sound good.
?
But from knowing how these trailers are built, the metal pad the roof latches to is held in by screws into 1/8" fiberboard and 1" styrofoam, and that can't take much stress.? I could easily see ripping out one of the latch pads if you drove over a good sized bump at speed. I would not do it.
?
?
?
Genset options

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

?

Your tow vehicle can be a great generator in most cases.? It¡¯s quiet, gas friendly and doesn¡¯t require lugging gas cans or watchfulness during operation.? You would need a length of very heavy wire, such as a jumper cable set, and a connection to a DC-DC converter which is connected to your battery.? All told, this DIY conversion might cost $250, a far cry from the cost of a generator.?

?

Typically this set up is most efficient during bulk charge, while the camper battery is 60% - 80% of full charge.? I can run my TV for an hour and boost the battery SoC from 60% to 85%.? Meantime, the TV is just idling, not very noisy, and uses less than 0.5 gallons of fuel for the charge.

?

Dave

?

¡­¡­¡­¡­¡­¡­¡­¡­.

?

I personally hate running a generator.
Re: Transporting an Aliner

 

I misrepresented the question. I should have asked would the roof be affected or damaged. Thanks
Re: Transporting an Aliner

 

Speed and distance would be the issue, and whether or not you have wind protection.? Personally, I'd cut or remove the bungees and get three or four people to support the roof and pull the spring out.



--
Don DeRyke
Sunrise, Florida

2009 Classic, 2020 Ford Escape, 2.0 liter EcoBoost, AWD.?
Previous TV 2015 Ford Escape 1.6 liter EcoBoost engine.
Re: Transporting an Aliner

 

¿ªÔÆÌåÓý

The question would be how fast can you go.?
Whatever wind speed you can safely handle is your answer. Do what you can to secure it from collapsing.?

Diego Saiz

On Aug 28, 2024, at 6:30?AM, Paul Serdiuk via groups.io <pis9@...> wrote:

?
Can an Aliner in the up position be transported on a rollback, (flatbed) trailer without damage to the walls?? Can't lower the walls without damage to a weak spring support (wood)
Transporting an Aliner

 

Can an Aliner in the up position be transported on a rollback, (flatbed) trailer without damage to the walls?? Can't lower the walls without damage to a weak spring support (wood)
Re: Chasing electrical issues in used 2022 Aliner Ranger 10

 

For lifepo4 you have to get a new converter anyways. ?Adding the wire upgrade to the task is not that much more work. ?But good point that the wire upgrade is needed.

I personally hate running a generator. ?Its not permanently installed, so you have to lug it out, hook it up, and then babysit it until done. ?And the reason you're breaking out the generator is probably because its cloudy and threatening rain, and solar isn't enough, so you have the extra concern of keeping the generator dry if a rainstorm does occur. ?With a compressor fridge using about 40 something amp hrs in typical 80 degrees, a 50 amp limits generator time to about 1 hour a day. Not too bad for monitoring it.

400 watts of solar is a lot of square feet of panels. ?It will solve the cloudy day or limited sun problem in a lot of cases. ?But carting or installing that much surface area is difficult. ?I don't think you need that out west in lodgepole pines that let the sun through and limited rainy days, but I could see doing that in the Midwest where I used to live. ?But for anybody contemplating how much solar to get, I suggest making some dummy cutouts that are the panel size and see where you would mount them or store them.? Then ask questions about the tradeoffs, because there are many more tips to get it right.
?
On Tue, Aug 27, 2024 at 10:54 AM, dan smartt wrote:

I wouldn't be so quick to consider 50amp charging all the other stuff is a quick fix .
?
The 50amp charging would require rewiring the lines to the battery.? 30amp charging is usually sufficient and won't require a rewire. But 50 amp charging would be a little faster.? (2 hours vs 3 hours for 100amp battery)
?
On the solar front 400 watt is a good option too, 200 is usually sufficient though (there are a lot of 400 w portable panels available now) - again your at about 30 amp with max solar @ 400 watt.? ?
?
Happy camping


On Tue, Aug 27, 2024 at 10:39 AM, Steve T
<srtimm@...> wrote:
Lashru, also be aware that your fridge is a high consumer of electricity.? The specs say it uses 34 amp hours in 24 hours time, with temps in the 70s.? That will almost double if the temps are in the 90s. With your 77 ah battery, you can only safely run your fridge for one night, since you don't want to discharge lead acid batteries below 50%.
?
For folks like yourself with a compressor fridge, you're a good candidate for a lifepo4 battery, 200 watts of solar, and a 50 amp or more converter for fast charging.
?
?
?
?
?
Re: Chasing electrical issues in used 2022 Aliner Ranger 10

 

I wouldn't be so quick to consider 50amp charging all the other stuff is a quick fix .

The 50amp charging would require rewiring the lines to the battery.? 30amp charging is usually sufficient and won't require a rewire. But 50 amp charging would be a little faster.? (2 hours vs 3 hours for 100amp battery)

On the solar front 400 watt is a good option too, 200 is usually sufficient though (there are a lot of 400 w portable panels available now) - again your at about 30 amp with max solar @ 400 watt.? ?

Happy camping


On Tue, Aug 27, 2024 at 10:39 AM, Steve T
<srtimm@...> wrote:
Lashru, also be aware that your fridge is a high consumer of electricity.? The specs say it uses 34 amp hours in 24 hours time, with temps in the 70s.? That will almost double if the temps are in the 90s. With your 77 ah battery, you can only safely run your fridge for one night, since you don't want to discharge lead acid batteries below 50%.
?
For folks like yourself with a compressor fridge, you're a good candidate for a lifepo4 battery, 200 watts of solar, and a 50 amp or more converter for fast charging.
?
?
?
?
Re: Chasing electrical issues in used 2022 Aliner Ranger 10

 

Don, if you upgrade your wiring, put in 4 awg wires from your battery to your converter.? Doing that in my trailer increased my battery charge rate by up to 70%.
?
On Tue, Aug 27, 2024 at 09:47 AM, Don DeRyke wrote:

I like the terminal block setup.? I really should do this as I put my camper back together.? But I'm afraid I'll get anxious and lazy and just wire it back like it was.? Maybe not.? They camper has been down for months with this floor replacement.? What's a few more days?
?
?

--
Don DeRyke
Sunrise, Florida

2009 Classic, 2020 Ford Escape, 2.0 liter EcoBoost, AWD.?
Previous TV 2015 Ford Escape 1.6 liter EcoBoost engine.
Re: Chasing electrical issues in used 2022 Aliner Ranger 10

 

Lashru, also be aware that your fridge is a high consumer of electricity.? The specs say it uses 34 amp hours in 24 hours time, with temps in the 70s.? That will almost double if the temps are in the 90s. With your 77 ah battery, you can only safely run your fridge for one night, since you don't want to discharge lead acid batteries below 50%.
?
For folks like yourself with a compressor fridge, you're a good candidate for a lifepo4 battery, 200 watts of solar, and a 50 amp or more converter for fast charging.
?
?
?
?
301 - 320 of 104497