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Don DeRyke
Sunrise, Florida

2009 Classic, 2020 Ford Escape, 2.0 liter EcoBoost, AWD.?
Previous TV 2015 Ford Escape 1.6 ltr EcoBoost engine.

Thanks. But different toilet. No pump. Used water from line from main pump. Thetford toilet.?

This shows how to get at the pump.? If the leak is there, you should be able to fix it.

I have a leak right before/at the flush valve. But it is all crammed up in the top area and no good way I can see to get to it. Any suggestions?

On Wed, Jul 3, 2024 at 02:36 PM, <lashru@...> wrote:

Appreciate the replies.

Re: battery - either the RV seller or the original owner upgraded the battery to an Interstate 24M-EFB (77 Ah).

My understanding is, this doesn't behave the same way as a conventional lead-acid battery for charge cycles

>>>>>>They recommend charging that battery at 3 amps or less.? That's not practical for an RV.? You might have to get a new battery.? Since that battery seems suspect of other issues, you should take it to any auto parts store and have it tested.? If its weak, thats a convincing reason to replace it.

Re: smart alternator - we ran into these issues using both the TV to charge and using shore power hookups to charge. While I'll pursue more info on the TV side of things, I suspect the issue may be somewhere else.

Re: warranty coverage - As stated, I bought this trailer used - "as-is". Aliner (I assume my fellow Aliner owners know the person with whom I spoke by name) doesn't extend the warranty past the original owner and seemed almost hostile at first when I called asking for more information. Told me they couldn't supply even the manual for my specific trailer, that I "should have received it from the dealer." (This, after making clear I bought the trailer used.) Am waiting to hear back from the fridge mfr, but not holding out much hope on that - especially because I did not receive a specific proof-of-purchase for the reefer, which they require to register the device.?

>>>>>>The warranty comes from the fridge manufacturer, not Aliner. The previous owner should have registered that fridge with the fridge manufacturer.? If they transfer the warranty to a new owner, you should only need the serial number of the fridge.??

>>>>>See if this owners manual helps:
/g/A-frameCamperForum/files/2021%20Aliner%20Owner%27s%20Manual.pdf

Re: converter - there were no labels. That's what I'm working on this week: tracing circuits to everything on them. I have a basic readout from Aliner, but need to confirm (after discovering the fridge miswired into Fuse 1) that things-as-installed match things-as-described. At least the RV repair place gave me a detailed rundown of what they tested and what they found. They did check out the TV wiring thoroughly, because it was our DIY job. I understand about wire gauge affecting safe function. The RV electrician said they were scaled appropriately for what was needed by that battery.

I do plan on an LiFePo solar system later, but as you might imagine, after a 5% surcharge in the form of unexpected repairs just three days into ownership, we do not have the money to pour into alternatives right now. I'm trying to solve the things I can do myself, for the time being. Will look for that 12V voltmeter - saw someone else who had installed an analog meter for each leg of the power system for continuous monitoring.

>>>>>>I recommend installing one fixed location digital voltmeter, LCD, not LED, and no backlight, so it doesnt light up the room.? Then have a hand held voltmeter/ammeter that you can use to check any other location.

Thanks again for the welcome and your thoughts.

Appreciate the replies.

Re: battery - either the RV seller or the original owner upgraded the battery to an Interstate 24M-EFB (77 Ah).

My understanding is, this doesn't behave the same way as a conventional lead-acid battery for charge cycles.

Re: smart alternator - we ran into these issues using both the TV to charge and using shore power hookups to charge. While I'll pursue more info on the TV side of things, I suspect the issue may be somewhere else.

Re: warranty coverage - As stated, I bought this trailer used - "as-is". Aliner (I assume my fellow Aliner owners know the person with whom I spoke by name) doesn't extend the warranty past the original owner and seemed almost hostile at first when I called asking for more information. Told me they couldn't supply even the manual for my specific trailer, that I "should have received it from the dealer." (This, after making clear I bought the trailer used.) Am waiting to hear back from the fridge mfr, but not holding out much hope on that - especially because I did not receive a specific proof-of-purchase for the reefer, which they require to register the device.?

Re: converter - there were no labels. That's what I'm working on this week: tracing circuits to everything on them. I have a basic readout from Aliner, but need to confirm (after discovering the fridge miswired into Fuse 1) that things-as-installed match things-as-described. At least the RV repair place gave me a detailed rundown of what they tested and what they found. They did check out the TV wiring thoroughly, because it was our DIY job. I understand about wire gauge affecting safe function. The RV electrician said they were scaled appropriately for what was needed by that battery.

I do plan on an LiFePo solar system later, but as you might imagine, after a 5% surcharge in the form of unexpected repairs just three days into ownership, we do not have the money to pour into alternatives right now. I'm trying to solve the things I can do myself, for the time being. Will look for that 12V voltmeter - saw someone else who had installed an analog meter for each leg of the power system for continuous monitoring.

?

Thanks again for the welcome and your thoughts.

Your converter should charge your battery when plugged into shore power. Either the converter is dead, or it was wired incorrectly.? The RV guy should be able to figure that out.? That comment that the converter cannot charge the battery on shore power is some kind of massive misunderstanding.

You can also troubleshoot the converter yourself.? For my progressive dynamics converter, they describe how to connect a voltmeter to determine if the converter is putting out power.? The tech support group for the converter should also be able to tell you how to do that.

Charging your trailer battery from your tow vehicle is a problem not solved by the rv and auto makers in most cases. The problem is the wires are too skinny as mentioned previously, and the fact that cars now shut off the alternator if they think the battery is charged, to get better mpg. But having the alternator off makes it real hard to charge the battery.? Its called a "smart alternator" if you want to look up more info.? You can install larger wires and what's called a dc to dc charger to try to fix that, but its a hassle.? Time is better spent getting a solar system or a small generator, because that works even when not towing.

A few vehicles do charge reasonably,? and some do a mediocre job, and some lousy.? Look at a forum for your vehicle type to see how it does.

The fridge drawing too much power is probably caused by a short in it somewhere.? That should have been covered under warranty.? See if the warranty is still in effect.? If not, you'll have to have a fridge repair guy fix it for you, which is typically not the same as the RV repair guy.? You'll have to look up repair places for that model fridge.

The only manuals you need are for the appliances.? You should be able to find them online and download them.? There are some Aliner owners manuals in the files section of this website, and I'd bet aliner has them too.??

I've never seen a wiring diagram for these campers, and if you got one, it probably would have mismatches with your build.? But what is better than that, and far simpler to use, is the list of all the appliances attached to each fuse in the converter.? You could try tracing down the wires, or you could pull the fuses one at a time, and see which appliances quit working, and get that info.? That info should also be written inside the cover of your converter. Then with the knowledge that each dc appliance has a plus wire and a minus wire, and the plus wire goes to a fuse on the converter fuse panel, and the minus wire goes to that big messy bundle of minus wires, you can figure anything out.

The rv guy who said there was a drop in quality of rvs post covid was entirely correct.? The government shut down non essential businesses at the height of the pandemic.? But the big surprise was, when the pandemic was mostly over, the workers didn't come back.? The manufacturers then hired rookies, and rookies made rookie mistakes.? Many rv materials disappeared from the market too, and builders had to find other sources.? The other sources in many cases were not as good. There are lots of stories about post covid rv problems.

Aliner then informed us that the battery *cannot* charge though either the 7-pin or shore power because it requires higher voltage (over 14V) than either is designed to supply.

The wiring harness of your tow vehicle is not designed to allow the current and voltage to the 7 pin plug required to effectively charge the battery. The wires in the TV? wiring harness are too small which creates a voltage drop under the load of trying to power the Aliner.? I suggest looking up "Lead acid battery charging cycle" to better understand what it takes to keep the battery properly charged.? I also usually recommend you find a way to easily monitor your battery voltage.? you can get a "cigarette Lighter" type 12v plug that displays voltage usually they have USB ports on them too.
I have an 2018 expedition w/dormers, Solar & LiFePO4 battery.? Full time off grid.? There is a learning curve with any recreational vehicle and all the things that go on in them.
Good Luck with the process!

开云体育

Hello Lashru:

Welcome to the Aliner Club! We have had our 2000 model for 8 years and have really enjoyed it. I think we paid a premium price just because it was an Aliner, but it had the parts we wanted.

We have worked on most everything on the camper: tires, brakes, 12 volt and 120 volt wiring, new floor, new cabinets, new power box, new tail lights, new AC, new skylight, etc. Except for the brakes we have been able to do the work ourselves.

Our camper came with an instruction manual, that is mostly useless. I would suggest learning how do fix things yourself, paying RV shops will get expensive and slow. Ask around, I'm sure you will find friends that are willing to help you. I've helped others with door repairs and new drawers, etc. We keep a folder with all the papers and also a note book with all the projects we have taken on. I've made our own as built wiring diagrams. Also take lots of photos, before and after. I've posted most of our photos on the IO group photos.

We have stopped at RV show rooms to see the newer Aliners, but still see typical 1x2 wood stapled to thin plywood ( almost equal to fortified cardboard ).

Best wishes and good luck.

Carl.

Greetings.

I bought a used 2022 Ranger 10, which I now believe could not have been used much, if at all, based on lack of wear in places that then wore heavily during our first outing. For example, the curtain on the kitchen side is pressed against the propane stove cover, resulting in a hole being worn in the curtain during our first excursion - although the standoffs are in place and firmly seated as they should be. (We put a towel over the stove cover, and this stopped the abrasion. But there shouldn't have been abrasion in the first place, that's the whole point of those standoffs on each side). Aluminum side rails have abrasion wear as well, where there wasn't any when I did the walkthrough. The windows in both sides keep vibrating open during travel, the thumb latch seems to rock loose as a result of road vibration. We discovered the door side was actually resting *on* the kitchen side window, so we added a silicone trivet to protect the window from damage or breakage.

Aliner has been less than helpful, and the RV seller didn't receive all the owner and appliance manuals from the original owner. Pages of the owner's manual - like the wiring diagram - are missing outright. It was, of course, an as-is sale, and everything *appeared* to work correctly during our walkthrough.

We set out on our first trip with a full new battery. On the third day, we had a dead battery. Took it straight to a great RV place, and they found the following:

The ICECO Go20 12V fridge had been wired into the 15A circuit for the interior LED lights and Fantastic Fan. All connections within our tow vehicle were working fine, all connections at the 7-pin were working fine. After my begging, Aliner finally read me the circuits for the converter. They also confirmed the ICECO was original equipment on my model - and that it should have been on a different circuit. I had the RV place rewire the fridge circuit accordingly. After doing so, they ran some additional tests and the ICECO just repeatedly tripped the breaker they'd installed. So they pulled it out for bench-testing. On the bench, it *melted* the 10A socket and wiring (it's supposed to draw a peak of 5A). This seems out of character for ICECO, none of the reviews mentioned any issues like this.

Aliner then informed us that the battery *cannot* charge though either the 7-pin or shore power because it requires higher voltage (over 14V) than either is designed to supply. They say that's why the battery was not recharging either during driving for 10+ hours/day or being on 30A shore power for 12+ hr nights. This seems like a ginormous design flaw to me, but I haven't found any good, simple guides to what it *should* be to work as-is. The RV electrician agrees that the battery should be able to charge correctly off either shore power or our TV through the 7-pin.

Does anyone have a 2022 Ranger 10 dual-bunk wiring diagram to share, please?

Has anyone else run into similar issues on post-2020 models? (The RV electrician we took it to seems to think there was a build quality drop post-pandemic.)

I bought an Aliner because so many people buy them and keep them for years of use. The reviews were almost universally raves. I am, as you might imagine, deeply disappointed in the reality.

Thanks kindly for any useful input or suggestions.?

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Don DeRyke
Sunrise, Florida

2009 Classic, 2020 Ford Escape, 2.0 liter EcoBoost, AWD.?
Previous TV 2015 Ford Escape 1.6 ltr EcoBoost engine.

Thanks Pat.? I will definitely look into this option, also.? It might be a while before I get to it....I can only work on the RV 2 days at a time on out D/W (HOA rules); so I have several things I will do at the same time - including replacing the hinges on our Dometic 3-way freezer door.

I will post when I have actually done something!

Steve S
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2021 Expedition Off-road, TV 2020 Ram 1500

Thanks, I ended up just ordering one from aliner. They say they're using the 6k btu LG Air conditioners, too, and their current covers are big enough to fit them where they stick out that extra 1-1.5 inches. Hopefully it fits!?

Reminds me of the movie Brazil.? -Jim

Hi again. ?Pat, gr8, simple fix! ?How did you connect the flexible ducts to the outlets from the heat pump?
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2021 Expedition Off-road, TV 2020 Ram 1500

So many negative aspects of these units reported over the last few years.? I'm happy I have a simple window shaker in my 2009 Classic.? At the worst, I have to run it full time to maintain an acceptable temperature.
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Don DeRyke
Sunrise, Florida

2009 Classic, 2020 Ford Escape, 2.0 liter EcoBoost, AWD.?
Previous TV 2015 Ford Escape 1.6 ltr EcoBoost engine.

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Cindy Harris
Pittsburgh, PA
2013 Expedition

Steve, I have closed the dormers on my LXE and extended the air ducts to over the bed and it's working pretty good.
Thank you.
Pat