Re: Replacement Aic Conditioner cover
I messaged Rita at (850) 240-1071 and got a "Sorry. We are retired." reply
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Re: Replacement Aic Conditioner cover
Just be aware that this website scans for email addresses in the text and truncated them.? So publish an email as
e m a I l n a m e @ h o s t n a m e . c o m
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Re: Replacement Aic Conditioner cover
Your posting comes across with an abbreviated email for Susan.?? kitemaker4@.....? It doesn't work as a link. What is the whole address??
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Re: No DC power to camper
Thanks to all who made suggestions. I didn't solve the problem in time for our outing, but we were able to change to a site with shore power. Turns out the problem was a bad + wire from the battery to the converter, and I concluded that by running a temporary wire between the two as suggested. I wasted a lot of time before I did that simple test. Because I couldn't determine where the break was, I ran a permanent replacement wire along the same route and also relaced the old connecters with waterproof butt splice ones. Rookie mistakes are testing DC circuits with shore power connected, and not having the DC power on at the battery.?
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Re: No DC power to camper
That narrows down the problem the power is not getting to the converter from the battery.
These are your 3 most likely issues
1. In line fuse - most likely culprit. 2. The wire or connection from the battery positive to the converter? 3. The negative wire or connection from the battery to the converter
At worst so you don't miss your trip you could run? new lines back from the battery to the converter
Best of luck Dan S
On Fri, Sep 1, 2023 at 8:00 PM, Steve T <srtimm@...> wrote: I second Kija's comment.? Double check the inline battery fuse.? That's out in the elements and tends to rust.?
Turn on lights, and then do the following, and see if the lights come on:
1. Replace the battery fuse.? The wire in the fuse can crack and not be noticeable.? Thd battery fuse is the cause of this problem most of the time.
2. Grab the swage that connects the battery fuse to the battery cable, and bend the wire back and forth at that point.? The swage may rust and lose connection.? Do that for the swage before and after the fuse.?
3. Grab each big bundle of wires connected by a big twist nut behind the converter (assuming you have those)? Twist it back and forth, same as you did for the battery fuse.
4. Go underneath your trailer and trace along the battery wires,, and wiggle any wire with a gob of tape over it. There shouldn't be many if any connections on you battery wire, but you never know.? I heard of one case where a trailer had two battery fuses.? A former owner may also have installed a battery cutoff switch thats gone bad.
5. If you have any ground wires bolted to the frame, loosen, scrape off, and retighten the bolts.
The wiggling and bending of wires is not guaranteed to detect a bad connection.? But its a pretty good quick test that works a lot of times, and I've found a bunch of electrical problems doing that.
If the lights come when twisting the battery fuse swages, get a new battery fuse holder and swage in with butt splice connectors.? You'll need a tool that looks like pair of pliers with a weird jaw to crimp the swages.? Ordinary pliers won't work. Squeeze the crap out of the swaging tool when you connect stuff.? Then pull on the wire hard.? A good swage cannot be pulled out.
If the lights come on when you bend the big twist nut, you can try twisting it down harder to get it working for your trip, but eventually you'll have to redo that connection.? If you untwist that twist nut, it will bend wire strands against the grain and crack them.? If that happens youl, need to have a wire stripper to redo that connection.? Id recommend you use split bolts (available at home depot) to put the wires back together, since those won't crack strands if you have to open it up later.? Strip off a good inch or so of wire to put into a split bolt.? Then wrap the whole thing in a big gob of electrical tape.??
There are more elegant fixes for the twist nut using terminal blocks, but that takes more time, which right now it sounds like you don't have.
I hope that helps.
Good luck.
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Re: No DC power to camper
I second Kija's comment.? Double check the inline battery fuse.? That's out in the elements and tends to rust.?
Turn on lights, and then do the following, and see if the lights come on:
1. Replace the battery fuse.? The wire in the fuse can crack and not be noticeable.? Thd battery fuse is the cause of this problem most of the time.
2. Grab the swage that connects the battery fuse to the battery cable, and bend the wire back and forth at that point.? The swage may rust and lose connection.? Do that for the swage before and after the fuse.?
3. Grab each big bundle of wires connected by a big twist nut behind the converter (assuming you have those)? Twist it back and forth, same as you did for the battery fuse.
4. Go underneath your trailer and trace along the battery wires,, and wiggle any wire with a gob of tape over it. There shouldn't be many if any connections on you battery wire, but you never know.? I heard of one case where a trailer had two battery fuses.? A former owner may also have installed a battery cutoff switch thats gone bad.
5. If you have any ground wires bolted to the frame, loosen, scrape off, and retighten the bolts.
The wiggling and bending of wires is not guaranteed to detect a bad connection.? But its a pretty good quick test that works a lot of times, and I've found a bunch of electrical problems doing that.
If the lights come when twisting the battery fuse swages, get a new battery fuse holder and swage in with butt splice connectors.? You'll need a tool that looks like pair of pliers with a weird jaw to crimp the swages.? Ordinary pliers won't work. Squeeze the crap out of the swaging tool when you connect stuff.? Then pull on the wire hard.? A good swage cannot be pulled out.
If the lights come on when you bend the big twist nut, you can try twisting it down harder to get it working for your trip, but eventually you'll have to redo that connection.? If you untwist that twist nut, it will bend wire strands against the grain and crack them.? If that happens youl, need to have a wire stripper to redo that connection.? Id recommend you use split bolts (available at home depot) to put the wires back together, since those won't crack strands if you have to open it up later.? Strip off a good inch or so of wire to put into a split bolt.? Then wrap the whole thing in a big gob of electrical tape.??
There are more elegant fixes for the twist nut using terminal blocks, but that takes more time, which right now it sounds like you don't have.
I hope that helps.
Good luck.
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Re: No DC power to camper
I had the exact same issue 2 wks ago taking the camper out of storage and installing the battery. I spent 1 1/2 day chasing a ghost issue. Turns out the inline fuse in the battery box was looking? "fine", i.e visibly not blown, so I didn't think of taking it out, however the contacts in there were oxidized after 10yrs of use. Power came back after all the jiggling of the wires hunting the ghost.. Double check, and good luck.
On Friday, September 1, 2023 at 11:29:42 AM EDT, dsmithsota@... <dsmithsota@...> wrote:
I'm on the edge of cancelling a camping trip because I can't figure out why I'm not getting DC power to anything in my 2009 Aliner Classic.. Shore power is fine. i did install a new frig vent fan, and unfortunately did not check DC power before that. Everything was fine in late June the last time we used the camper. The frig and fan work fine on shore power but, like everything else, not on DC. I traced good DC power at only 12.1 V at the battery at the last connection before the power center. WF-8735. Testing inside the PC? I don't know what to connect the + of my voltage tester to. There is a neutral bar and a ground bar behind the cover.?
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Re: No DC power to camper
All of the DC lights etc work when the shore power is plugged in but non when just running on the battery. None of the lights in the converter come on in either case. I think I'll check the ground next.?
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Re: No DC power to camper
Don't also forget to check the ground wire (negative 12 volt) especially if they tied it up via a wire nut (a lot of aliners have all the grounds wire nutted together in a big bundle)
Do you have 12 volt power when connected to shore power and lose it when trying to run off of battery or is the 12 volt out even when plugged in?
(If it's out only when not plugged in then it the line to the charge controller or inline fuse)
Best of luck
On Fri, Sep 1, 2023 at 12:05 PM, Carl <carl.blum@...> wrote:
Hello
D:
May I
suggest you make yourself a diagram of all the wires in your
trailer. This is a must since in 14 years many things may have
changed.
It
could just be a block diagram of wires to and from the power
converter and the battery. Then you can test where there is,
and isn't power. Volt meters are nice, but a 12/24 volt test
light will quickly give you the information you need. For the
tests you might need to do it would be nice to have a long
wire that can reach from the battery to the power converter,
etc.
Here
are the groups to check:
1) the
battery, it should have a charge and be able to light up the
test light.
2) the
converter, the wire from the battery should still show power
here, before fuses, even without the converter plugged in.
3) the
tow vehicle cable. Shouldn't be part of the problem here, but
you need to be aware of it.
4) the
loads. These should each have a separate fuse, but not part of
the balance between the battery and power converter.
5) the
tail lights. These shouldn't be part of the problem either,
but the wires run through this area, so don't be distracted.
A) Pull
all the fuses you can find, there may be one inline near the
battery.
B) The
battery should light up the tester.
C) With
the converter ( shore power ) plugged in the battery outputs
on the converter should light up.
D) With
the converter unplugged and the battery fuses in, there should
still be power at the fuses for the loads. If not look for a
break in the battery lines. Test both sides of every
connection.
We had
a rat's nest of wires in our camper, so I cleaned it up with
industrial terminals like these:
The
converter is on the right, shore power is the big wire coming
out of the back. The white romex wires are the 120volt
circuits. The big wire going through the floor is the TV wire,
and the two wires next to it are the wires to the battery. The
terminal strip collects all the wire in a group that is easy
to test and correct.
Best
wishes. Carl.
?
I'm on the edge of cancelling a camping trip because I can't
figure out why I'm not getting DC power to anything in my 2009
Aliner Classic.. Shore power is fine. i did install a new frig
vent fan, and unfortunately did not check DC power before that.
Everything was fine in late June the last time we used the camper.
The frig and fan work fine on shore power but, like everything
else, not on DC. I traced good DC power at only 12.1 V at the
battery at the last connection before the power center. WF-8735.
Testing inside the PC? I don't know what to connect the + of my
voltage tester to. There is a neutral bar and a ground bar behind
the cover.?
|
Re: No DC power to camper
Hello
D:
May I
suggest you make yourself a diagram of all the wires in your
trailer. This is a must since in 14 years many things may have
changed.
It
could just be a block diagram of wires to and from the power
converter and the battery. Then you can test where there is,
and isn't power. Volt meters are nice, but a 12/24 volt test
light will quickly give you the information you need. For the
tests you might need to do it would be nice to have a long
wire that can reach from the battery to the power converter,
etc.
Here
are the groups to check:
1) the
battery, it should have a charge and be able to light up the
test light.
2) the
converter, the wire from the battery should still show power
here, before fuses, even without the converter plugged in.
3) the
tow vehicle cable. Shouldn't be part of the problem here, but
you need to be aware of it.
4) the
loads. These should each have a separate fuse, but not part of
the balance between the battery and power converter.
5) the
tail lights. These shouldn't be part of the problem either,
but the wires run through this area, so don't be distracted.
A) Pull
all the fuses you can find, there may be one inline near the
battery.
B) The
battery should light up the tester.
C) With
the converter ( shore power ) plugged in the battery outputs
on the converter should light up.
D) With
the converter unplugged and the battery fuses in, there should
still be power at the fuses for the loads. If not look for a
break in the battery lines. Test both sides of every
connection.
We had
a rat's nest of wires in our camper, so I cleaned it up with
industrial terminals like these:
The
converter is on the right, shore power is the big wire coming
out of the back. The white romex wires are the 120volt
circuits. The big wire going through the floor is the TV wire,
and the two wires next to it are the wires to the battery. The
terminal strip collects all the wire in a group that is easy
to test and correct.
Best
wishes. Carl.
?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
I'm on the edge of cancelling a camping trip because I can't
figure out why I'm not getting DC power to anything in my 2009
Aliner Classic.. Shore power is fine. i did install a new frig
vent fan, and unfortunately did not check DC power before that.
Everything was fine in late June the last time we used the camper.
The frig and fan work fine on shore power but, like everything
else, not on DC. I traced good DC power at only 12.1 V at the
battery at the last connection before the power center. WF-8735.
Testing inside the PC? I don't know what to connect the + of my
voltage tester to. There is a neutral bar and a ground bar behind
the cover.?
|
Re: No DC power to camper
? If BOTH the inline fuse near the battery¡¯s positive terminal AND the typically 20 amp fuse that is second to the bottom of the fuse stack in a WFCO 8725 or 8735 are good, then there¡¯s a break somewhere in the wire from the battery inline fuse to the converter.? Look for corrosion along that wire.? Also look for failed pinch connectors ¨C these block-like connectors should never be used in a primary battery line (or anywhere else, frankly). ? Dave ? ¡¡¡¡¡¡¡.. ? removed panel and checked by black to ground bar and red to other bar and got -0 V for a reading. battery gives me a 12+ V reading.?
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Re: No DC power to camper
Probably your first point of testing is the 12 volt going into the converter from the battery.? (Behind the converter).
For inside the converter testing photos would probably be of value - to get assistance.
Good luck
On Fri, Sep 1, 2023 at 8:29 AM, dsmithsota@... <dsmithsota@...> wrote: I'm on the edge of cancelling a camping trip because I can't figure out why I'm not getting DC power to anything in my 2009 Aliner Classic.. Shore power is fine. i did install a new frig vent fan, and unfortunately did not check DC power before that. Everything was fine in late June the last time we used the camper. The frig and fan work fine on shore power but, like everything else, not on DC. I traced good DC power at only 12.1 V at the battery at the last connection before the power center. WF-8735. Testing inside the PC? I don't know what to connect the + of my voltage tester to. There is a neutral bar and a ground bar behind the cover.?
|
Re: No DC power to camper
I'm on the edge of cancelling a camping trip because I can't figure out why I'm not getting DC power to anything in my 2009 Aliner Classic.. Shore power is fine. i did install a new frig vent fan, and unfortunately did not check DC power before that. Everything was fine in late June the last time we used the camper. The frig and fan work fine on shore power but, like everything else, not on DC. I traced good DC power at only 12.1 V at the battery at the last connection before the power center. WF-8735. Testing inside the PC? I don't know what to connect the + of my voltage tester to. There is a neutral bar and a ground bar behind the cover.?
|
Re: No DC power to camper
removed panel and checked by black to ground bar and red to other bar and got -0 V for a reading. battery gives me a 12+ V reading.?
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Re: No DC power to camper
fuses are all good in converter but no lighted things in the converter. I think it is not getting power from the battery. I assume I need to remove the panel to access the battery terminals in the converter. that's next.?
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Re: No DC power to camper
Did you check the fuses in the converter???
What have you checked so far, and how did you check it?? What doesn't have power?
Did you put a voltmeter on the "batt pos+" and "batt neg-" terminals inside the converter?? That tells you whether you have power from the battery to the converter.
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Shore power is fine. Battery charged up. Battery connected correctly. Inline battery fuse id good. NO DC power topower center. Is there an easy answer??
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Re: Installing a Rear View Camera-2016 Expedition
Update:? I forgot to show the rear camera link.? I bought that direct from RedTiger because Amazon was out of them.? I also bought their polarizing filter for windshield glare. Customer service is great.? I mentioned a couple issues I had with the install and they sent me another wiring kit, and a longer cable that included the fuse taps.? No charge.? However, at that point I had already installed my system.
These are links to everything I needed.? You may not need the same.? They don't have an extension cable, that's why the couplings were needed.??
?
The hard wire kit is only needed if you want to use the park mode to record 24/7.? The fuse taps were necessary because I didn't have any spares that were powered full time.? And that is only necessary if you want to use the parking mode and hardwire it.??
?
I used velcro on the camera mount so I could use it with and without my bike rack attached.? I have a spot in the center of the back wall just under the hinge trim, and one on the bike rack center stem.? The TV has a separate rear camera that I disconnect when I hook up the camper.
?
-- Don DeRyke Sunrise, Florida 2009 Classic, 2020 Ford Escape, 2.0 liter EcoBoost, AWD.? Previous TV 2015 Ford Escape 1.6 ltr EcoBoost engine.
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Re: New A-Frame Facebook Group (A-Liners Out West)
Hey! Quick question for ya, do you have any info on the picture you used for the group? Specifically I'm curious about the two straps on the front roof of the aliner and what they are used for.
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Hey, this is the first I've seen this idea mentioned online. We just got an ALiner a couple weeks ago and I came up with basically this same idea for how to make an auto lift and high wind restraint system all in one. Tested it the other day using just a strap attached to the top of the rear wall and then looped over the top of the front wall. With that I was able to easily pull it up by hand.? I'm planning on making a video once I get the system figured out and installed so keep an eye out for that (or let me know if you have come across anyone else who has done a similar setup) On Wed, Nov 6, 2019 at 07:37 PM, Carl wrote:
Hello Don:
?
No, not at all. The pull cable would go to top edge of the front roof and turn on a pulley back to the top edge of the back roof ( on both sides ). If this were a loop, think timing belt, it could pull the roofs back down also.
?
Carl.
?
On 11/6/2019 10:08 AM, Don DeRyke via Groups.Io wrote:
That would be the similar to this I believe.
?
https://youtu.be/0wPo1fcFdhw
?
?
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On Wed, Nov 6, 2019 at 9:18 AM, Carl
<carl.blum@...> wrote:
Hi Gang:
?
Why can't a winch on the front roof pull the top edge of the back roof up? Then there would be no need for counter balance springs, etc.
?
Carl.
?
?
?
?Virus-free. www.avast.com
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Carl
Don DeRyke