Re: FIRESIDE OUTDOOR Pop-Up Fire Pit Camping Grill Light Weight $65
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On Mon, Aug 1, 2022 at 6:23 AM, Kathryn Freese <freese.k.a.com@...> wrote: Just wondering what folks use to secure their Aliner roof latches to prevent accidental opening when traveling?
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Just wondering what folks use to secure their Aliner roof latches to prevent accidental opening when traveling?
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FIRESIDE OUTDOOR Pop-Up Fire Pit Camping Grill Light Weight $65
FIRESIDE OUTDOOR Pop-Up Fire Pit $65. Buyer pays shipping or local pickup
(I thought it worked great but my husband is a gear head and bought two others, so I'm cleaning out the garage! )?
From the REI website where we purchased it:? https://www.rei.com/product/186792/fireside-outdoor-pop-up-fire-pit
Features
- ?Lightweight, portable design makes it the perfect companion from the backyard to the backwoods
- ?Patented Fire Mesh technology produces captivating flames and substantial heat output, creating bright, hot fires with 80% less smoke for a more enjoyable campfire experience
- ?Opens to 24 in. x 24 in. when fully assembled
- ?Aluminum and stainless-steel construction provides years of corrosion-free use
- ?Burns multiple types of fuel, including charcoal, wood and wax logs
- ?The included Leave No Trace Heat Shield lets you have a fire on any surface without damaging the underneath ground
- ?Zippered weather-resistant carrying bag included
- ?Meets all USFS and BLM fire pan regulations
Buyer pays shipping or local pickup
Technical Specs
| Best Use |
Camping
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| Fuel Type |
Wood
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| Fuel |
Charcoal
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| Heat Output (per burner) |
30,000 british thermal units
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| Dimensions |
24 x 24 x 15 inches
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| Weight |
8 pounds
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| Weight (Without Fuel) |
8 pounds pounds    
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Forest River RV Aliner (Aframe) kitchen storage unit camper foldable soft white
Forest River RV kitchen storage unit for ALiner style A Frame camper foldable soft heavy duty plastic white This was a Christmas present for our Aliner camper. We haven't used it and are cleaning out the garage. It has a few scuffs on it from storage. We THINK it's made by a company called Forest River, but there are no identifying tags on it. From what I've found, lots of people are looking for these, but can't find them. The closest product is $75. Folds flat. Comes with hanging straps and hooks. Note that the straps are of different lengths to accommodate a Aliner type (A frame) roof. Would give you easy storage in any camper. The last two photos are from the web to show you pics taken from other trailers. Folded dimensions are 14" x 20" x 4". Expanded dimensions are 14" x 20" x 22" tall. One removable shelf.
  
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PahaQue A Frame Teardrop Trailer Visor
- Designed to provide shade and shelter when you need it.? Quickly and easily attaches to the folding side wall on the side of the trailer.? ?We paid $380 for it, asking $225.? Color is Kelly Green with Blue edging.? (photo is from the internet - color is green not white). Buyer pay shipping.? ?For more info, go to the PahaQue website:??
- Size - 9'-6"Wide x 7'Deep.
- 210D Polyester with waterproofing and UV inhibitor coatings.
- PahaQue's Limited Lifetime Warranty
- Fits the 12ft, 15ft, & 18ft Box Sizes
- Comes complete with carry bag
- One fiberglass pole, guy lines, and all necessary hardware.
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Hello
Kathryn:
You did
a very good job, nothing to worry about.
Carl.
On 7/31/2022 11:18 AM, KATHRYN BAXTER
wrote:
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Almost done. Wound up making a sandwich in the one
corner and worrying that the boards will be too heavy on that
side. I had leftover 3/4 inch plywood that I used ?
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Almost done. Wound up making a sandwich in the one corner and worrying that the boards will be too heavy on that side. I had leftover 3/4 inch plywood that I used ?
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Aliner Sportliner 2006 For Sale
Okay, we finally got it together enough to take off for a week. We got to Kingsland GA and the A/C wouldn't cool. I replaced the original a/c a couple of years back with an LG. It worked fine until it didn't. I cleaned the filter, unplugged it, and reset the plug. No luck. My life is such, planning to move and other life crap makes me want to be done with my Aliner. Too many other things to take care of.
It has served us well but time to move on.
Here are the details.
2006 Aliner Sportliner
I bought it in 2012 in Pennsylvania. It is now in Davie, FL.
They aren't made anymore. They have a nice bit of storage and counter space for cooking, etc. Sleeps two. We actually lived in it for 5 months when we first got to SFL. I have pulled it only with Honda CRVs. Starting weight is 795 lbs. When this camper is operating well it is easy for one small woman to go by herself. I can put it up and down, and hook it up to the hitch without help. The bed makes up a full-size mattress. A small person, me, can sleep on the back cushion and leave the table up all the time.?
It has a fridge, heater, and sink (I removed the water tank to provide more storage and I never used the sink)
A/C works well when working!
Since I bought it these are the improvements, work done-
New tires, brand new spare
New axle
New curtains
New custom a/c cover
Paint
New cushion foam
Upholstery cleaned
2 propane tanks
New wiring plug to the car.
New emergency chains
New battery
New bungee cords (not installed yet)
Replaced 1 stabilized disc (3 more new ones included, they only sold them in sets of 4)
Issues that will need attention at some point-
Fix or replace a/c
Replace foam seals
Buff/polish skylights. Set of polishing fluids included. No leaks.
Frame adjustment (hit a nasty pothole in WV) Initially a strong man fixed it right away by pulling and pushing so the door would shut adequately. It needs more manly work :)
I have the original paperwork.?
I'm having trouble trying to get even one picture posted. I can send pics by text or email.
$4200
505-239-1968
Best to all,
Lisa
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Yeah. I think I'm going to go b with rustoleum enamel. Can't see myself going to work speckled or worse. Not a way to instill confidence in my patients!
Katheryn,
I just wanted to say....Great Job!? In regards to spraying the bottom with something like Flex Seal or a rubberized undercoating...it can be messy.? A couple of tips.? Cover all exposed skin and make sure your prescription glasses are covered or work without them but you must have eye protection.? Any exposed skin can be covered (which would more than likely just be your face) can be covered with something like a heavy coat of thick hand lotion.? I have also used cooking oils to achieve the same thing.? Any of the spray sealant will easily wash off if you have a layer of something on the skin.? If not...some of that stuff will stay on your skin for a week or more.??
Keep up the good work!
Travis? :)
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Katheryn,
I just wanted to say....Great Job!? In regards to spraying the bottom with something like Flex Seal or a rubberized undercoating...it can be messy.? A couple of tips.? Cover all exposed skin and make sure your prescription glasses are covered or work without them but you must have eye protection.? Any exposed skin can be covered (which would more than likely just be your face) can be covered with something like a heavy coat of thick hand lotion.? I have also used cooking oils to achieve the same thing.? Any of the spray sealant will easily wash off if you have a layer of something on the skin.? If not...some of that stuff will stay on your skin for a week or more.??
Keep up the good work!
Travis? :)
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It's often surprising to yourself what you CAN do when you don't convince yourself in advance that you CAN'T! And nice surprises are hard to come by.?
On Thu, Jul 28, 2022, 8:27 PM KATHRYN BAXTER < kmb442@...> wrote: I have learned to never say "I can't" to you guys!
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I have learned to never say "I can't" to you guys!
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Hello
Kathryn:
It
looks real nice. Congratulations!
Carl.
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Good to know. Too late to prime all but not too late for some. I will be doing a half sandwhich on the wall side because I realized there's not much holding up that piece. Got some rolled flashing, not so much for support but to cover the gaps and pull it all together.? ?Hardest part for me was getting clean straight lines ( as evidenced by the wood filler). Haven't decided what to paint it all with yet . Not rel thrilled with the idea of trying to use tar while laying on my back under the trailer. Want to undercoat the entire thing.
Looks like we will make it to the Northeast Rally in September.?
I have to say I love this group. Equal amounts of "you can do it" and "let's be careful out there"! Much appreciated..
On Thu, Jul 28, 2022, 7:24 PM Steve T < srtimm@...> wrote: I would paint it with an oil based primer and then oil based enamel. Primer is the magic sauce that makes paint stick.? No primer, no stick.
I'd also paint the plywood sheets before you install them, so you get the areas that will be covered after install.? Then a final coat after you screw on the reinforcements over the joints.
Don't put the rubberized paint on bare wood.? I don't think it will stick.? I just got done peeling some silicone rubber caulk off bare wood in my fridge compartment.? It was really easy because the silicone rubber didn't stick at all to the bare wood.
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Hi
Gang:
The
down side to painting the plywood first is then the glue has
to stick to the paint. You could mask off the areas that need
glue and paint the rest.
Carl.
On 7/28/2022 7:24 PM, Steve T wrote:
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I would paint it with an oil based primer and then oil based
enamel. Primer is the magic sauce that makes paint stick.? No
primer, no stick.
I'd also paint the plywood sheets before you install them, so you
get the areas that will be covered after install.? Then a final
coat after you screw on the reinforcements over the joints.
Don't put the rubberized paint on bare wood.? I don't think it
will stick.? I just got done peeling some silicone rubber caulk
off bare wood in my fridge compartment.? It was really easy
because the silicone rubber didn't stick at all to the bare wood.
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I would paint it with an oil based primer and then oil based enamel. Primer is the magic sauce that makes paint stick.? No primer, no stick.
I'd also paint the plywood sheets before you install them, so you get the areas that will be covered after install.? Then a final coat after you screw on the reinforcements over the joints.
Don't put the rubberized paint on bare wood.? I don't think it will stick.? I just got done peeling some silicone rubber caulk off bare wood in my fridge compartment.? It was really easy because the silicone rubber didn't stick at all to the bare wood.
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I agree - if your not adding metal for support, just undercoating should be enough.
Best of luck & happy camping
On Thu, Jul 28, 2022 at 2:54 PM, Hap Kimmel <pilothap@...> wrote: When I replaced some of my floor in 2008 Classic I spray painted it with rustoleom black paint. The water damage comes from above best I can tell, not from the bottom.?
Hap? On Jul 28, 2022, at 5:46 PM, KATHRYN BAXTER < kmb442@...> wrote: I'm tired. IF? I am going to undercoat it with a rubberized/waterproof paint, then WHT to a need a layer of metal as well?? The rest of the underside has no metal.
Looking
good. Carl.
On 7/25/2022 5:46 PM, KATHRYN BAXTER
wrote:
Better picture.? Plan to straighten out by and
including piece in wheel well
Hello
Kathryn:
Looks
like a good start. What sort of saw do you have to cut
back to good wood? Saber saw or oscillating saw would
work fine. Even a hand keyhole saw could do the job,
but it would take a bit of elbow grease.
If
it has dried out I might soak it with paint. Use oil
based paint and thin it 2:1 with paint thinner. This
will soak in like crazy, but should fill all the voids
where the water has been. Put something under the
camper, this could leak out. Then when the paint dries
do the plywood sandwich.
If
you still want to replace the spot next to the wheel
well here is how to cut it out. An oscillating saw can
cut straight in, a saber or key hole saw will need a
starting hole.
If
you have any moisture left, use a fan or even an
electric heater to dry everything. Do you have the
extra flaps on the roof corners? They help keep the
water away from the corner and then inside.
![]()
Our
hinge seals had failed so I covered them with
Edurobond tape. The aluminum flap I made from some
scrap aluminum and pop rivets. Corner handle still
needs to be replaced.
You
will be able to do this, and then anything else you
want to fix!
Carl.
On 7/25/2022 3:54 PM, KATHRYN BAXTER wrote:
Ok. Hope you guys are still with me. I'm
all in now.?
What's the easiest way to get that piece
in the wheel well? ]I really don't want to mess with
the wiring.
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When I replaced some of my floor in 2008 Classic I spray painted it with rustoleom black paint. The water damage comes from above best I can tell, not from the bottom.?
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On Jul 28, 2022, at 5:46 PM, KATHRYN BAXTER < kmb442@...> wrote: I'm tired. IF? I am going to undercoat it with a rubberized/waterproof paint, then WHT to a need a layer of metal as well?? The rest of the underside has no metal.
Looking
good. Carl.
On 7/25/2022 5:46 PM, KATHRYN BAXTER
wrote:
Better picture.? Plan to straighten out by and
including piece in wheel well
Hello
Kathryn:
Looks
like a good start. What sort of saw do you have to cut
back to good wood? Saber saw or oscillating saw would
work fine. Even a hand keyhole saw could do the job,
but it would take a bit of elbow grease.
If
it has dried out I might soak it with paint. Use oil
based paint and thin it 2:1 with paint thinner. This
will soak in like crazy, but should fill all the voids
where the water has been. Put something under the
camper, this could leak out. Then when the paint dries
do the plywood sandwich.
If
you still want to replace the spot next to the wheel
well here is how to cut it out. An oscillating saw can
cut straight in, a saber or key hole saw will need a
starting hole.
If
you have any moisture left, use a fan or even an
electric heater to dry everything. Do you have the
extra flaps on the roof corners? They help keep the
water away from the corner and then inside.
Our
hinge seals had failed so I covered them with
Edurobond tape. The aluminum flap I made from some
scrap aluminum and pop rivets. Corner handle still
needs to be replaced.
You
will be able to do this, and then anything else you
want to fix!
Carl.
On 7/25/2022 3:54 PM, KATHRYN BAXTER wrote:
Ok. Hope you guys are still with me. I'm
all in now.?
What's the easiest way to get that piece
in the wheel well? ]I really don't want to mess with
the wiring.
|
I'm tired. IF? I am going to undercoat it with a rubberized/waterproof paint, then WHT to a need a layer of metal as well?? The rest of the underside has no metal.
Looking
good. Carl.
On 7/25/2022 5:46 PM, KATHRYN BAXTER
wrote:
Better picture.? Plan to straighten out by and
including piece in wheel well
Hello
Kathryn:
Looks
like a good start. What sort of saw do you have to cut
back to good wood? Saber saw or oscillating saw would
work fine. Even a hand keyhole saw could do the job,
but it would take a bit of elbow grease.
If
it has dried out I might soak it with paint. Use oil
based paint and thin it 2:1 with paint thinner. This
will soak in like crazy, but should fill all the voids
where the water has been. Put something under the
camper, this could leak out. Then when the paint dries
do the plywood sandwich.
If
you still want to replace the spot next to the wheel
well here is how to cut it out. An oscillating saw can
cut straight in, a saber or key hole saw will need a
starting hole.
If
you have any moisture left, use a fan or even an
electric heater to dry everything. Do you have the
extra flaps on the roof corners? They help keep the
water away from the corner and then inside.
![]()
Our
hinge seals had failed so I covered them with
Edurobond tape. The aluminum flap I made from some
scrap aluminum and pop rivets. Corner handle still
needs to be replaced.
You
will be able to do this, and then anything else you
want to fix!
Carl.
On 7/25/2022 3:54 PM, KATHRYN BAXTER wrote:
Ok. Hope you guys are still with me. I'm
all in now.?
What's the easiest way to get that piece
in the wheel well? ]I really don't want to mess with
the wiring.
|
Carl
