The floor in mine is glued.? You can see the squeeze out on some of the frame members.? It was then anchored down with large self tapping wide head screws.? I would imagine if the screws were backed out, and you jacked the floor up, the liner under the wood might stay, but the floor would rise up.? An oscillating power tool would be ideal in that situation.? You can see the screw heads in her photos.
?
--
Don DeRyke
Sunrise, Florida
2009 Classic, 2020 Ford Escape, 2.0 liter EcoBoost, AWD.?
Previous TV 2015 Ford Escape 1.6 ltr EcoBoost engine.
|
The bolts are in the pictures if you look carefully.? There were only 2 in my way. I was ablecto get them both out once I got them wood out first.
On Wed, Jul 27, 2022, 11:16 PM Steve T < srtimm@...> wrote: Well glue makes that job a lot harder.? I was thinking that if the box could be jacked up a half inch, that would make enough roof for the tin, and also to slide the plywood between the frame and bottom of the walls.? But not if it's glued.
So Aliner also bolts the floor to the frame, right?? I'm curious as to where the bolts are.? I'd expect to see them in the pictures, but don't.
On Wed, Jul 27, 2022 at 04:22 PM, KATHRYN BAXTER wrote:
Almost there. Not pretty, but functional.? I. Having a problem with getting the tin under neath between the ply wood and the metal trailer frame. I think the bottom of the camper is glued down to the metal frame ( saw this when I took off the rot.)
I've tried just wiggling it through, but no go. Any thoughts?
Ok. Hope you guys are still with me. I'm all in now.?
What's the easiest way to get that piece in the wheel well? ]I really don't want to mess with the wiring.
|
Well glue makes that job a lot harder.? I was thinking that if the box could be jacked up a half inch, that would make enough roof for the tin, and also to slide the plywood between the frame and bottom of the walls.? But not if it's glued.
So Aliner also bolts the floor to the frame, right?? I'm curious as to where the bolts are.? I'd expect to see them in the pictures, but don't.
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Show quoted text
On Wed, Jul 27, 2022 at 04:22 PM, KATHRYN BAXTER wrote:
Almost there. Not pretty, but functional.? I. Having a problem with getting the tin under neath between the ply wood and the metal trailer frame. I think the bottom of the camper is glued down to the metal frame ( saw this when I took off the rot.)
I've tried just wiggling it through, but no go. Any thoughts?
Ok. Hope you guys are still with me. I'm all in now.?
What's the easiest way to get that piece in the wheel well? ]I really don't want to mess with the wiring.
|
Hello
Kathryn:
I
believe you are right, the frame is glued to the floor, so you
will have a tough time slipping the tin in. May I suggest just
bending a 90¡ã lip up against the frame and caulking the gap.
Sounds like you are making progress.
Carl.
On 7/27/2022 7:22 PM, KATHRYN BAXTER
wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Almost there. Not pretty, but functional.? I.
Having a problem with getting the tin under neath between the
ply wood and the metal trailer frame. I think the bottom of the
camper is glued down to the metal frame ( saw this when I took
off the rot.)
I've tried just wiggling it through, but no go.
Any thoughts?
Ok. Hope you guys are still with me. I'm all
in now.?
What's the easiest way to get that piece in
the wheel well? ]I really don't want to mess with the
wiring.
|
Almost there. Not pretty, but functional.? I. Having a problem with getting the tin under neath between the ply wood and the metal trailer frame. I think the bottom of the camper is glued down to the metal frame ( saw this when I took off the rot.) I've tried just wiggling it through, but no go. Any thoughts?
Ok. Hope you guys are still with me. I'm all in now.? What's the easiest way to get that piece in the wheel well? ]I really don't want to mess with the wiring.
|
Re: Time for a new battery.
The lifepo4 battery manufacturers are now saying that yes you can take your lifepo4 down to 1% charge and you'll still get 2000 cycles (on the better batteries), but if you take it down to only 50% charge, you'll get 8000 cycles.? So for best battery life, back to the only discharge to 50%!?!?
Well not really.? Suppose you camp 50 days a year.? To drain a 100 ah lifepo4 down to 1% will take about 3 days with moderately heavy power usage.? That means you'll fully discharge and recharge the battery by 50 ¡Â 3 = 17 times a year.? Then take the 2000 cycles in the lifespan of a lifepo4 battery, divide by 17, and you get 117 years.? I think with a 117 year lifespan your ok to discharge 99%.
Watch out for those cheap lifepo4 batteries.? A lot of them are destroyed if your solar charges them early in the morning when temps are still below freezing, a lot are also not IP65 water resistent, which means they short out if on the trailer tongue in the rain, and some have soldered connections, and those are supposedly a no no because they can give out under high load.
Wed, Jul 27, 2022 at 07:07 AM, D Link wrote:
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I purchased a Battle Born lithium iron phosphate 100 amp hour battery to replace our 84 amp hour lead acid. While the on-board charger will only charge it to about 75%, my 175 watt thin flexible solar panel with an MPPT controller will power it all the way to 100%, without any damage. While LiFePO4 batteries with management electronics inside cost more, they can be drained all the way to 1% state of charge without damage or reduction of power delivered. There are many new LiFePO4 100 or 200 amp hour batteries online via Amazon which now cost half of my original Battle Born, plus they weigh about 1/3 what lead acid do AND they last years longer. You pay more initially, but recover that investment over their lifetime easily.
D Link
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Re: Time for a new battery.
So that battery was gently used and should not have failed.? Sucks that the warranty was just one year, and that it failed.
I just looked at the Interstate golf cart batteries warranty.? Thats only 12 months too.? And if they fail after 12 months, I'm sure interstate wouldn't warranty them either.
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On Tue, Jul 26, 2022 at 08:00 PM, Jack McWilliams wrote:
Steve T.? I only discharge my renogy battery down to about? 50%, 12.2 to 12.5 and I usually have my 100 watt solar suit case panel hooked up with a controller.? I wasn't pleased with Renogy customer service, on that one.? At night we don't even use the LED lighting in the trailer because it to bright so we?
use solar lanterns that are just? right.? The only big draw is the Frig and carbon, propane detectors.
|
Re: Time for a new battery.
I purchased a Battle Born lithium iron phosphate 100 amp hour battery to replace our 84 amp hour lead acid. While the on-board charger will only charge it to about 75%, my 175 watt thin flexible solar panel with an MPPT controller will power it all the way to 100%, without any damage. While LiFePO4 batteries with management electronics inside cost more, they can be drained all the way to 1% state of charge without damage or reduction of power delivered. There are many new LiFePO4 100 or 200 amp hour batteries online via Amazon which now cost half of my original Battle Born, plus they weigh about 1/3 what lead acid do AND they last years longer. You pay more initially, but recover that investment over their lifetime easily.
D Link
|
Re: Time for a new battery.
Steve T.? I only discharge my renogy battery down to about? 50%, 12.2 to 12.5 and I usually have my 100 watt solar suit case panel hooked up with a controller.? I wasn't pleased with Renogy customer service, on that one.? At night we don't even use the LED lighting in the trailer because it to bright so we?
use solar lanterns that are just? right.? The only big draw is the Frig and carbon, propane detectors.
|
Re: Time for a new battery.
Wow.? Sam's club sells the 215 ah golf cart battery for $109.? That's really cheap.
Costco sells the Interstate golf cart batteries for real cheap.? But they are a special build of battery that isn't as good as the regular interstates.? You can only warranty them at Costco, not at any interstate dealer.? I wonder if Sam's club does something similar with Duracell batteries,
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Re: Time for a new battery.
The gold standard for lead acid has always been using 2 golf cart batteries. Golf cart batteries only have 3 plates instead of 6 like 12 volt batteries.? That leaves more room to make the plates thicker, and thus they last longer.??
The supposedly highest quality golf cart batteries are the ones from Interstate and Trojan.? Duracell also makes golf cart batteries, and I imagine they are pretty good too.? 2 Duracell golf cart batteries only cost 10% more than Duracell's agm.? Highly worth the extra money IMHO.? But 2 golf cart batteries is an extra 60 lbs on the trailer tongue, and if your vehicle can't support that then it's not a viable option for you.
I'm in my 8th year of use with my 2 interstate golf cart batteries.? They're definitely getting weaker, but when you start out with 225 amp hours, it doesn't matter that much because I still have plenty of juice left.
It's hard to find batteries right now.? You may have to take what you can get.? Last spring I went to a shop to test and replace my batteries if needed.? Good thing they tested ok, because the guy wouldn't break a set and sell me just 2.
BTW how far did you discharge your renogy battery?? A greater discharge gets less battery life.??
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Re: Time for a new battery.
I have no need for a sophisticated battery at this time.? Batteries don't hold up well in Florida, so I looked for a bargain when I bout my latest one in April, 2021.? (Wow, where did that year go.)? I got a true deep cycle Duracell from Sam's.? Just a 12 month warranty, but it's doing fine so far, and was only $98 at that time.? Here is the current info.
-- Don DeRyke Sunrise, Florida 2009 Classic, 2020 Ford Escape, 2.0 liter EcoBoost, AWD.? Previous TV 2015 Ford Escape 1.6 ltr EcoBoost engine.
|
It is time for a new battery for my 2015 Aliner Classic and I was wondering? what is new on the market or brands others?
are using.? I had a Renogy AGM Deep cycle that lasted 15 months ( 12 month warranty ) that wouldn't hold a charge.?
About 1.5 hours of running frig and phone charging,?carbon design system and that was it.? Renogy was no help at all.
So I have been looking at a Duracell SLI 31DTMAGMDC Deep Cycle battery from Battery's Plus but is has been backordered since June 11.
Any Ideas?
Thanks
Jack
|
Looking
good. Carl.
On 7/25/2022 5:46 PM, KATHRYN BAXTER
wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Better picture.? Plan to straighten out by and
including piece in wheel well
Hello
Kathryn:
Looks
like a good start. What sort of saw do you have to cut
back to good wood? Saber saw or oscillating saw would
work fine. Even a hand keyhole saw could do the job,
but it would take a bit of elbow grease.
If
it has dried out I might soak it with paint. Use oil
based paint and thin it 2:1 with paint thinner. This
will soak in like crazy, but should fill all the voids
where the water has been. Put something under the
camper, this could leak out. Then when the paint dries
do the plywood sandwich.
If
you still want to replace the spot next to the wheel
well here is how to cut it out. An oscillating saw can
cut straight in, a saber or key hole saw will need a
starting hole.
If
you have any moisture left, use a fan or even an
electric heater to dry everything. Do you have the
extra flaps on the roof corners? They help keep the
water away from the corner and then inside.
Our
hinge seals had failed so I covered them with
Edurobond tape. The aluminum flap I made from some
scrap aluminum and pop rivets. Corner handle still
needs to be replaced.
You
will be able to do this, and then anything else you
want to fix!
Carl.
On 7/25/2022 3:54 PM, KATHRYN BAXTER wrote:
Ok. Hope you guys are still with me. I'm
all in now.?
What's the easiest way to get that piece
in the wheel well? ]I really don't want to mess with
the wiring.
|
Re: Ugh bigger problems than AC
What do you mean by "double plated"?
This is a photo of part of my rotten wood repair.? Before cutting out the bad wood, I first located the metal framework underneath.? Then basically I cut out the floor using a jig saw in the open areas and a multi-tool cutter with metal blade when cutting on top of any metal frame members.? It is easy to tell when you hit metal.? After removal and cleaning things up, I used the old wood as a template for cutting the new piece of 1/2" exterior plywood.? The new wood was put down with adhesive on top of the metal framework, screwed, caulked and then double plated from underneath on the joints that were NOT above a frame member.? These were glued and screwed down from the top.? All new/raw wood on the underside was sprayed with a rubberized undercoating (similar product to Flex-Seal).
I plan to put together a video in the near future that shows more of this project.? But hopefully?These photos will help.? The photo showing me standing on the ground, through the floor, is the right front corner.? I wanted to include it as an FYI to show the frame members.? The arrangement is different in the rear, but it give you an idea.
   
|
Better picture.? Plan to straighten out by and including piece in wheel well
Hello
Kathryn:
Looks
like a good start. What sort of saw do you have to cut back to
good wood? Saber saw or oscillating saw would work fine. Even
a hand keyhole saw could do the job, but it would take a bit
of elbow grease.
If it
has dried out I might soak it with paint. Use oil based paint
and thin it 2:1 with paint thinner. This will soak in like
crazy, but should fill all the voids where the water has been.
Put something under the camper, this could leak out. Then when
the paint dries do the plywood sandwich.
If you
still want to replace the spot next to the wheel well here is
how to cut it out. An oscillating saw can cut straight in, a
saber or key hole saw will need a starting hole.
If you
have any moisture left, use a fan or even an electric heater
to dry everything. Do you have the extra flaps on the roof
corners? They help keep the water away from the corner and
then inside.
Our
hinge seals had failed so I covered them with Edurobond tape.
The aluminum flap I made from some scrap aluminum and pop
rivets. Corner handle still needs to be replaced.
You
will be able to do this, and then anything else you want to
fix!
Carl.
On 7/25/2022 3:54 PM, KATHRYN BAXTER
wrote:
Ok. Hope you guys are still with me. I'm all in
now.?
What's the easiest way to get that piece in the
wheel well? ]I really don't want to mess with the wiring.
|
Carl what am I sandwiching if I cut the piece out? Can't I just drop in an appropriately sized piece of plywood? I had to remove rot all the way under the wall to the edge.?
So far I have been using my trusty hack saw. Got as far as I can with that. To Harbor Freight tonight.
Still didn't get those damn screws out.
Hello
Kathryn:
Looks
like a good start. What sort of saw do you have to cut back to
good wood? Saber saw or oscillating saw would work fine. Even
a hand keyhole saw could do the job, but it would take a bit
of elbow grease.
If it
has dried out I might soak it with paint. Use oil based paint
and thin it 2:1 with paint thinner. This will soak in like
crazy, but should fill all the voids where the water has been.
Put something under the camper, this could leak out. Then when
the paint dries do the plywood sandwich.
If you
still want to replace the spot next to the wheel well here is
how to cut it out. An oscillating saw can cut straight in, a
saber or key hole saw will need a starting hole.
If you
have any moisture left, use a fan or even an electric heater
to dry everything. Do you have the extra flaps on the roof
corners? They help keep the water away from the corner and
then inside.
Our
hinge seals had failed so I covered them with Edurobond tape.
The aluminum flap I made from some scrap aluminum and pop
rivets. Corner handle still needs to be replaced.
You
will be able to do this, and then anything else you want to
fix!
Carl.
On 7/25/2022 3:54 PM, KATHRYN BAXTER
wrote:
Ok. Hope you guys are still with me. I'm all in
now.?
What's the easiest way to get that piece in the
wheel well? ]I really don't want to mess with the wiring.
|
Hello
Kathryn:
Looks
like a good start. What sort of saw do you have to cut back to
good wood? Saber saw or oscillating saw would work fine. Even
a hand keyhole saw could do the job, but it would take a bit
of elbow grease.
If it
has dried out I might soak it with paint. Use oil based paint
and thin it 2:1 with paint thinner. This will soak in like
crazy, but should fill all the voids where the water has been.
Put something under the camper, this could leak out. Then when
the paint dries do the plywood sandwich.
If you
still want to replace the spot next to the wheel well here is
how to cut it out. An oscillating saw can cut straight in, a
saber or key hole saw will need a starting hole.
If you
have any moisture left, use a fan or even an electric heater
to dry everything. Do you have the extra flaps on the roof
corners? They help keep the water away from the corner and
then inside.
Our
hinge seals had failed so I covered them with Edurobond tape.
The aluminum flap I made from some scrap aluminum and pop
rivets. Corner handle still needs to be replaced.
You
will be able to do this, and then anything else you want to
fix!
Carl.
On 7/25/2022 3:54 PM, KATHRYN BAXTER
wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Ok. Hope you guys are still with me. I'm all in
now.?
What's the easiest way to get that piece in the
wheel well? ]I really don't want to mess with the wiring.
|
Re: Ugh bigger problems than AC
Too late . Already started r I ping out the rot and I think it's good I did.
Kathryn, to keep your repair as simple as possible: forget about cutting out the damaged sections. That avoids having to buy a vibrating universal tool, though they are really handy to have. Just have Home Depot or Lowes or your local lumber yard cut you two rectangles of plywood big enough to span over the damaged floor areas into the undamaged areas. Plus buy a piece of thin sheet aluminum (cuttable with good scissors or metal snips) and cut to same dimensions. Using some adhesive like liquid nails or silicone glue the metal to the underside of one piece of plywood.? Being careful to avoid where any frame members are under the floor, simply drill holes (with 1 person laying under and 1 inside to hold the upper plywood in place) through the upper plywood, the remaining undamaged floor and the lower plywood and sheet metal below it. Bolt through those holes placing nylon insert lock nuts on the lower end of the bolts (those will remain removable in the future but never loosen by accident.) Seal the edges of the lower metal/wood patch with either roofing patch tar or spray rubber sealant. That¡¯s all, folks. On the underside it is possible you might need to do more than one patch on either side of any frame rails but above you can span it all with a single piece. If you are lucky you will be able to do it all in one piece above AND below. Actual installation after precutting and with two warm bodies should be 1/2- 1 hour. Don¡¯t over think this repair. Or let it scare you off.? On Mon, Jul 25, 2022 at 6:52 AM KATHRYN BAXTER < kmb442@...> wrote: Thanks all. Still working on it. My proble is brute force non existing. Cannot take metal screws out of the cross beams. Likely will try a repair myself with a cobbling together of all your ideas.? It will certainly not be as good.?
Hello
Flyboy:
Nice
job, thank you for all the photographs.
Carl.
This is a photo of part of my rotten wood repair.? Before
cutting out the bad wood, I first located the metal framework
underneath.? Then basically I cut out the floor using a jig saw
in the open areas and a multi-tool cutter with metal blade when
cutting on top of any metal frame members.? It is easy to tell
when you hit metal.? After removal and cleaning things up, I
used the old wood as a template for cutting the new piece of
1/2" exterior plywood.? The new wood was put down with adhesive
on top of the metal framework, screwed, caulked and then double
plated from underneath on the joints that were NOT above a frame
member.? These were glued and screwed down from the top.? All
new/raw wood on the underside was sprayed with a rubberized
undercoating (similar product to Flex-Seal).
I plan to put together a video in the near future that shows
more of this project.? But hopefully?These photos will help.?
The photo showing me standing on the ground, through the floor,
is the right front corner.? I wanted to include it as an FYI to
show the frame members.? The arrangement is different in the
rear, but it give you an idea.
|
Ok. Hope you guys are still with me. I'm all in now.? What's the easiest way to get that piece in the wheel well? ]I really don't want to mess with the wiring.
|
Don DeRyke
Carl
