Hi Sharlene:
If you still
want the light and view of the rear window, you might consider a
flat window. Flat 6mm Lexan would be half the cost of a domed
window, and if it is over the bed like ours, the extra head room
goes unnoticed. The one down side, a dome allows more material
expansion and contraction with temperature change. Use big holes
and washers!?
Carl.
On 8/7/2024 1:03 AM, David Martin
wrote:
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Consider taking the insurance $ for repair (or $
to total it and buy back from insurance for salvage value if
they decide to total it). Then find a handyman to jury rig ¡°
good enough¡± repairs to have roof raise, lower and be weather
tight. But don¡¯t do what all insurance covers - bringing it back
to perfect condition just before accident happened. Maybe go
solid on rear roof section without a window ( that is what a
previous owner did to my front roof window.) My 2000 Classic
never had a rear roof window but was otherwise the same
configuration and size as your model. Same passenger side window
and door. No rear hatch on passenger side, only a front one.
Virtually all your damage seems to be in right rear corner of
rear roof and the window. If you go with a solid roof panel in
and out using locally available materials like 4¡¯x8¡¯ plastic
rigid panels and no window plus reshape/repair rear roof
frame/hinge where damaged you should be able to make it very
usable , though not ¡°perfect¡± for a small percentage of your
insurance payout and have a great camper, already modified to
your specifications, and greatly reduce your investment in it.
And use the difference to pay for a lot of travel with it. Are
you sure you REALLY need a rear roof window, anyway? They don¡¯t
ventilate and are a common point for leakage and expense to
replace if they crack. Also handymen/carpenter types often
charge way less hourly than RV technicians. Just my $.02.?
On Tue, Aug 6, 2024 at 11:38
AM Sharlene Bozanich via <razzdazz11=
[email protected]>
wrote:
Carl