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What is a "digital motor"? As far as I'm aware, here in Australia the C3P has a 350w brushed motor and the SC3 has a 500w brushless motor. I have not heard of anyone having to replace the brushless motor but on YouTube there are many transplanting different motors to replace the 350w one which has "smoked"
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I'm thinking that's referring to a BLDC - brushless DC motor.
The Sieg circuitry looks like it's based on a reference design for the Atmel Encoder BLDC:
I think they used a different 8 bit uC but basically the same idea.
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On 12/18/2024 9:08 PM, Old Boilermaker via groups.io wrote: What is a "digital motor"? As far as I'm aware, here in Australia the C3P has a 350w brushed motor and the SC3 has a 500w brushless motor. I have not heard of anyone having to replace the brushless motor but on YouTube there are many transplanting different motors to replace the 350w one which has "smoked"
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I have purchased all but one time the longest.
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The reason is very simple space. In retirement you could find a location may not have room for bigger lathes? so decide on a? 8" x 14" and can do milling too. It will fit in a 36" Aumawal or weight like on a install field pickup ?/boat ?/airplane ? maybe for class room ??
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Dave?
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Length can also be reclamed by using a collet
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On 16 Dec 2024, at 07:30, Miket_NYC via groups.io <mctaglieri@...> wrote:
? "For ME, I would absolutely go with the longer bed.? That distance can gets used up pretty fast with a chuck in the headstock, work piece, drill, and Jacobs chuck in the tail stock.? I also like a longer bed so I can move the tailstock further out of my way when not using it."
I agree completely, but I worked for years (and made several large projects), with a Harbor Freight 7x10, and there are ways to get around bed-length problems. (And these ways are worth knowing about no matter how big your lathe is). A drill in the tailstock doesn't HAVE to be in a chuck. You can drill a pilot hole with a small drill in the chuck, then hold your big drill on the tailstock center with a lathe dog on the drill shaft to keep it from turning. (And that center can be a homemade short one that hardly sticks out, not the giant centers you buy). When drilling from the tail stock, you can also shorten drills by simply sawing off the shaft -- they aren't hardened.
Also, many things held in a chuck can instead be held on the faceplate. Most people used the faceplate for holding odd-shaped things that won't fit in the chuck, but if you're bed-challenged, you can also use it to save the ~2" of bed length that a chuck uses up.
Eventually I bought a longer bed for my 7x10 from little machine shop, but I don't regret my original purchase of the short bed. It helped develop my ingenuity.
Mike Taglieri
I'm not completely expert in the differences and just rambling from memory.
But first, I don't think anybody can say if lathe X is better than lathe Y - for YOU.
It is my understanding that the SC3 has a better motor arrangement and also a longer bed (7x16 instead of 7x14).
For ME, I would absolutely go with the longer bed.? That distance can gets used up pretty fast with a chuck in the headstock, work piece, drill, and Jacobs chuck in the tail stock.? I also like a longer bed so I can move the tailstock further out of my way when not using it.
But plenty are fine with the various shorter bed models.
Another thing I think about is the cost of the tooling.? And how I would feel paying the same money for tooling (chucks, better tool post, and on and on) for the lathe I didn't really want versus the lathe I really did want.? So, I suggest it is often best to go for the most machine you reasonably can unless cost is absolutely a major factor.
That would also mean looking at options other than C3 versus SC3 and perhaps other lathes.
Charles E. "Chuck" Kinzer
On Sunday, December 15, 2024 at 02:40:45 PM PST, Old Boilermaker via <alned03= [email protected]> wrote:
Contemplating buying a mini lathe for home use. Is it worth spending the extra money to buy a SC3 as opposed to a C3 ?.
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Using a collet only helps in SOME cases.? The part would usually have to be round and small enough diameter to fit the collet.? Therefore, as a solution to the length problem, the value of collets is limited.? A longer bed is the only universal solution for a too short bed.
Charels E. "Chuck" Kinzer
On Thursday, January 2, 2025 at 11:36:38 AM PST, David Wiseman <david@...> wrote:
Length can also be reclamed by using a collet
On 16 Dec 2024, at 07:30, Miket_NYC via groups.io <mctaglieri@...> wrote:
? "For ME, I would absolutely go with the longer bed.? That distance can gets used up pretty fast with a chuck in the headstock, work piece, drill, and Jacobs chuck in the tail stock.? I also like a longer bed so I can move the tailstock further out of my way when not using it."
I agree completely, but I worked for years (and made several large projects), with a Harbor Freight 7x10, and there are ways to get around bed-length problems. (And these ways are worth knowing about no matter how big your lathe is). A drill in the tailstock doesn't HAVE to be in a chuck. You can drill a pilot hole with a small drill in the chuck, then hold your big drill on the tailstock center with a lathe dog on the drill shaft to keep it from turning. (And that center can be a homemade short one that hardly sticks out, not the giant centers you buy). When drilling from the tail stock, you can also shorten drills by simply sawing off the shaft -- they aren't hardened.
Also, many things held in a chuck can instead be held on the faceplate. Most people used the faceplate for holding odd-shaped things that won't fit in the chuck, but if you're bed-challenged, you can also use it to save the ~2" of bed length that a chuck uses up.
Eventually I bought a longer bed for my 7x10 from little machine shop, but I don't regret my original purchase of the short bed. It helped develop my ingenuity.
Mike Taglieri
I'm not completely expert in the differences and just rambling from memory.
But first, I don't think anybody can say if lathe X is better than lathe Y - for YOU.
It is my understanding that the SC3 has a better motor arrangement and also a longer bed (7x16 instead of 7x14).
For ME, I would absolutely go with the longer bed.? That distance can gets used up pretty fast with a chuck in the headstock, work piece, drill, and Jacobs chuck in the tail stock.? I also like a longer bed so I can move the tailstock further out of my way when not using it.
But plenty are fine with the various shorter bed models.
Another thing I think about is the cost of the tooling.? And how I would feel paying the same money for tooling (chucks, better tool post, and on and on) for the lathe I didn't really want versus the lathe I really did want.? So, I suggest it is often best to go for the most machine you reasonably can unless cost is absolutely a major factor.
That would also mean looking at options other than C3 versus SC3 and perhaps other lathes.
Charles E. "Chuck" Kinzer
On Sunday, December 15, 2024 at 02:40:45 PM PST, Old Boilermaker via <alned03= [email protected]> wrote:
Contemplating buying a mini lathe for home use. Is it worth spending the extra money to buy a SC3 as opposed to a C3 ?.
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Hi everyone. It may help to use a faceplate. ? Sometimes we ?automatically think of 3 jaw chuck and don’t consider alternatives. ? ???????????? Ellis ? ? ? Using a collet only helps in SOME cases.? The part would usually have to be round and small enough diameter to fit the collet.? Therefore, as a solution to the length problem, the value of collets is limited.? A longer bed is the only universal solution for a too short bed. Length can also be reclamed by using a collet
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"It may help to use a faceplate. Sometimes we ?automatically think of 3 jaw chuck and don’t consider alternatives."
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While the latter statement is true, in situations where the work is too long for the lathe's bed, a faceplate mounting is unlikely to help.? (Example: Working a 1-inch diameter x 8 inch long bar.)
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If buying one of our hobby lathes, get the longest bed you can afford.
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Kurt Laughlin
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Hi Kurt, sorry for the late reply. On my hobby lathe, I can easily fit a 25 dia by 200 mm bar. Between centres, I can fit a 300 mm long bar. ? The point I was making, that whatever lathe you have, there is bound to be an item too long (Murphy’s law). ? We need to think of ways around the problem, some my suggestions are – Use a faceplate Between centres Divide the item in 2 and screw together. If it can go though the headstock spindle, machine section by section, then turn end for end and continue Re-design the item to remove the problem ? There are probably other solutions I have not needed to use – yet !!! ? HTH ??????????? Ellis ? ? ? "It may help to use a faceplate. Sometimes we ?automatically think of 3 jaw chuck and don’t consider alternatives." While the latter statement is true, in situations where the work is too long for the lathe's bed, a faceplate mounting is unlikely to help.? (Example: Working a 1-inch diameter x 8 inch long bar.) If buying one of our hobby lathes, get the longest bed you can afford.
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All good advice! Think before you act!? ?Bill
Hi Kurt, sorry for the late reply. On my hobby lathe, I can easily fit a 25 dia by 200 mm bar. Between centres, I can fit a 300 mm long bar. ? The point I was making, that whatever lathe you have, there is bound to be an item too long (Murphy’s law). ? We need to think of ways around the problem, some my suggestions are – Use a faceplate Between centres Divide the item in 2 and screw together. If it can go though the headstock spindle, machine section by section, then turn end for end and continue Re-design the item to remove the problem ? There are probably other solutions I have not needed to use – yet !!! ? HTH ??????????? Ellis ? ? ? "It may help to use a faceplate. Sometimes we ?automatically think of 3 jaw chuck and don’t consider alternatives." While the latter statement is true, in situations where the work is too long for the lathe's bed, a faceplate mounting is unlikely to help.? (Example: Working a 1-inch diameter x 8 inch long bar.) If buying one of our hobby lathes, get the longest bed you can afford.
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davesmith1800