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QCTP question
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jvswan
Hi:
I've just joined the list and I have found many comments touting the benefits of a quick change tool post. Being on a limited budget, though, I was wondering if the model sold by Harbor Freight ( Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=42806) is worth the $85. Has anyone tried the set? Any problems? It appears to come with some great attacments and tools. I hate to do things on the cheap, but there are other tools I need, and money is limited. Any comments or suggestions would be really appreciated. Thanks, Jason Swan |
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Capt. Ken Appleby
Hi Jason,
I have this QCTP set bought about 6 months ago(from ) and I am very happy with it Regards Ken / / /,,/,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,|| 触&濒迟;触):辞)=触&驳迟;抖抖触..触................. \ \'''''''''''''''''''''''''''''|| \ \ From: "jvswan" <jason@...>Hi: I've just joined the list and I have found many comments touting the benefits of a quick change tool post. Being on a limited budget, though, I was wondering if the model sold by Harbor Freight ( Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=42806) is worth the $85. Has anyone tried the set? Any problems? It appears to come with some great attacments and tools. I hate to do things on the cheap, but there are other tools I need, and money is limited. Any comments or suggestions would be really appreciated. Thanks, Jason Swan _________________________________________________________________ Overloaded with spam? With MSN 8, you can filter it out [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] |
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I've got one. It's nowhere near as nice as an Aloris, but, it
works. To get useable height adjustment, the top of the compound has to be lowered about 3/16", either by milling the plinth down or by milling the bottom of the pivoting part of the compound. There are details on the 7x10 site. The tool holders are non-standard. Other QCTPs have the opposite gender dovetail on the tool holder. If you want more holders, you have to either make them or try to buy them as repair parts. Under knurling (or parting) pressure, the base tends to rotate enough to keep the tool from working. Chalking the bottom is enough for parting; I think a scissors style knurl is probably going to be the right fix. Roy --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "jvswan" <jason@v...> wrote: Hi:the benefits of a quick change tool post. Being on a limited budget, though, I waswondering if the model sold by Harbor Freight( Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=42806) is worth the $85. Has anyonetried the set? Any problems? It appears to come with some great attacmentsand tools. I hate to do things on the cheap, but there are other toolsI need, and money is limited. Any comments or suggestions would be reallyappreciated.
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--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "jvswan" <jason@v...> wrote:
Check out the one that Little Machine Shop offers for $99.00 from T.S. Engineering, it is a nice cam action quick change tool post. Lee Brown Hi:the benefits of a quick change tool post. Being on a limited budget, though, I waswondering if the model sold by Harbor Freight( Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=42806) is worth the $85. Has anyonetried the set? Any problems? It appears to come with some great attacmentsand tools. I hate to do things on the cheap, but there are other toolsI need, and money is limited. Any comments or suggestions would be reallyappreciated.
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--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "jvswan" <jason@v...> wrote:
Check out the one that Little Machine Shop offers for $99.00 from T.S. Engineering, it is a nice cam action quick change tool post. Lee Brown Hi:the benefits of a quick change tool post. Being on a limited budget, though, I waswondering if the model sold by Harbor Freight( Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=42806) is worth the $85. Has anyonetried the set? Any problems? It appears to come with some great attacmentsand tools. I hate to do things on the cheap, but there are other toolsI need, and money is limited. Any comments or suggestions would be reallyappreciated.
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Steve Thompson
If you are on a limited budget, why not make your own. I've just made the
one at . Works a treat. Steve > Hi: > > I've just joined the list and I have found many comments touting the benefits of > a quick change tool post. Being on a limited budget, though, I was wondering > if the model sold by Harbor Freight ( > Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=42806) is worth the $85. Has anyone tried the > set? Any problems? It appears to come with some great attacments and > tools. I hate to do things on the cheap, but there are other tools I need, and > money is limited. Any comments or suggestions would be really appreciated. > > Thanks, > > Jason Swan Yahoo! Groups Sponsor ADVERTISEMENT To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: 7x12minilathe-unsubscribe@... Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service. --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (). Version: 6.0.467 / Virus Database: 266 - Release Date: 01/04/2003 |
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Jerry Smith
You know I think we would have enough knowledge and skills to make some of these things.
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Try for the basic plans. Jerry At 11:31 PM 4/8/2003 +0000, you wrote:
--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "jvswan" <jason@v...> wrote: |
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kf4zgz
Hi and welome to the mini-lathe world. I would also like a QCTP, but
like you, I spent the money on other tooling. Here's a thought.....If memory serves, the HF mini-lathe requires a 5/16 tool. I bought a rather large assortment of HSS and cobalt bits on ebay. Only 3 or 4 were 5/16, the rest were 3/8 and 1/2 with a couple of really BIG'UNS ( 3/4). As I use, need or have time, I sharpen the used bits. I also take the time to grind down the top so that the tool is the correct height. Voila! quick change! It really doesn't take that long to loosen and tighten 3 bolts. For example: among the lot was a cut-off tool ground from a 1/2"x1/2"x3" tool. I just took about3/16 off the top before sharpening. This makes a very stout cut-off tool. -btw- the QCTP design I have in mind is on hold until I get a mill! Matt one more -btw- I get the added benefit of practicing my grinding skills. |
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Craig C. Hopewell
Matt,
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Very excellent, low cost solution that is quite effective! Craig --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "kf4zgz" <kf4zgz@n...> wrote:
the rest were 3/8 and 1/2 with a |
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jvswan
Thanks, everyone, for the suggestions. I would really like to make
one of my own, but that will likely have to wait until I have more time. As a hobbyist, I guess I have to choose my projects since I also have a career, family, other hobbies, etc. I got some rudimentary experience with a Unimat before moving to the 7 X 12, so I'm also looking forward to getting better at this. Anyway, I might just spend the money on other things like the four jaw chuck (as Bob Streimikes suggested) and some collets. I can see how cool the QCTP is, though. So, I'll just have to see what happens. Thanks for all the replies to my query. Jason --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "jvswan" <jason@v...> wrote: Hi:the benefits of a quick change tool post. Being on a limited budget, though, I waswondering if the model sold by Harbor Freight (.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/ Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=42806) is worth the $85. Has anyonetried the set? Any problems? It appears to come with some great attacmentsand tools. I hate to do things on the cheap, but there are other toolsI need, and money is limited. Any comments or suggestions would be reallyappreciated.
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Steve:
I've had that qctp bookmarked for some time but have not found the time for it ... until now. I just bought and am returning a micro qctp from Phase II. The hardare is cheap and many screws will not even accept a quality metric hex wrench. Also, the boring bar holder is bored much too large and cannot clamp down on a 0.375" bar. The post you built appears as though it could be as rigid (or maybe even better) than a dovetail post due to the large surface area of the cylinder. How does it behave during heavy roughing cuts or parting cuts ? Thanks for sharing your project ! Den --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Steve Thompson" <sk.thompson@n...> wrote: If you are on a limited budget, why not make your own. I've justmade the one at . Works a treat.was wonderingattacments andtools I need, andService.
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Steve Thompson
Hi Den,
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Don't give me the credit for designing this project. I found it on the site below but I believe it was originally designed by someone on this list (Mert ? Jim ?). I am more than pleased with it. The only thing I would have done differently is to make the post itself from steel as indicated on the web page. I used LG4 gunmetal mainly because it was the only metal I had handy in the size required. It works fine but scratches rather easily. If you don't have a bandsaw or powered hacksaw, now is the time to buy one, cutting 1" chunks of 2"x2" Al or steel is going to give you *big* shoulders :-) I cut my first three by hand until I got the bandsaw. Made loads since. I also added a locknut to the height adjusting screw for obvious reasons. After I had used it for a while, I got fed up with having to remove the top tool post locking nut just to change holders so I made a new one. It's just a piece of 1" round bar drilled and tapped M10 (check yours) with a hole in the side for a tommy bar One thing I'm going to try next time I make a holder is, after boring the centre hole, to cut a recess in the bottom to just clear the bottom lip of the post. This will allow the holder to sit lower down and so enable me to use slightly larger tools if needed. With regard to roughing cuts, with this tool post on, the compound will move before the tool post does, it's that solid! Hope this helps, Steve -----Original Message-----
From: denyhstk [mailto:nheng@...] Sent: 07 June 2003 17:41 To: 7x12minilathe@... Subject: [7x12minilathe] Re: QCTP question Steve: I've had that qctp bookmarked for some time but have not found the time for it ... until now. I just bought and am returning a micro qctp from Phase II. The hardare is cheap and many screws will not even accept a quality metric hex wrench. Also, the boring bar holder is bored much too large and cannot clamp down on a 0.375" bar. The post you built appears as though it could be as rigid (or maybe even better) than a dovetail post due to the large surface area of the cylinder. How does it behave during heavy roughing cuts or parting cuts ? Thanks for sharing your project ! Den --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Steve Thompson" <sk.thompson@n...> wrote: > If you are on a limited budget, why not make your own. I've just made the > one at . Works a treat. > > Steve > > > Hi: > > > > I've just joined the list and I have found many comments touting > the benefits of > > a quick change tool post. Being on a limited budget, though, I was > wondering > > if the model sold by Harbor Freight > ( > > Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=42806) is worth the $85. Has anyone > tried the > > set? Any problems? It appears to come with some great attacments > and > > tools. I hate to do things on the cheap, but there are other tools > I need, and > > money is limited. Any comments or suggestions would be really > appreciated. > > > > Thanks, > > > > Jason Swan > > > Yahoo! Groups Sponsor > ADVERTISEMENT > > > > > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: > 7x12minilathe-unsubscribe@... > > > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service. > > --- > Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. > Checked by AVG anti-virus system (). > Version: 6.0.467 / Virus Database: 266 - Release Date: 01/04/2003 > > > Yahoo! Groups Sponsor To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: 7x12minilathe-unsubscribe@... Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service. --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (). Version: 6.0.489 / Virus Database: 288 - Release Date: 10/06/2003 |
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John
I noticed the toolpost being discussed is round so it looks like you
set the angle each time you change tools. I added the Phase II toolpost and find setting the angle awkward when it needs to be accurately perpendicular to use the parting tool. The best I've come up with is to chuck a rod and use my machinist square to get the toolpost angle set before chucking the actual part. I don't have a good way to set the angle accurately with a small part already in the chuck (another symptom of newbyitis, probably). There are times when it would be nice to change the angle slightly (to reduce chatter) while a part is in the chuck but I can't do this if I intend to eventually use the parting tool. Apparently, you do have a way to set the angle with a part in the chuck. Perhaps you could describe how to do this, assuming it would work with other toolposts. Another part of this thread concerned the size of the hole in the Phase II boring bar holder being too large. Mine had the same thing (it is meant for bars with larger shanks because the toolpost is meant for larger lathes) so I made a split sleeve from aluminum to accept my set of inexpensive brazed carbide boring bars with 3/8 shanks. This works fine; I leave the sleeve in the boring bar when changing bars. I also made a second sleeve to accommodate a couple of bars I have with larger shanks so the large bore adds capability. The Phase II toolpost/toolholders set is frequently on sale at Enco for $89. It is a bit large for the minilathe and I wound up increasing the cross slide travel to accommodate it, see: While it is the most expensive addition I've made to my minilathe, the Phase II is well made and works well, especially once the lathe is set up for it. John --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Steve Thompson" <sk.thompson@n...> wrote: Hi Den,the site below but I believe it was originally designed by someone on thislist (Mert ? Jim ?).differently is to make the post itself from steel as indicated on the web page.I used LG4 gunmetal mainly because it was the only metal I had handy inthe size required. It works fine but scratches rather easily. If you don'thave a bandsaw or powered hacksaw, now is the time to buy one, cutting 1"chunks of 2"x2" Al or steel is going to give you *big* shoulders :-) I cut myfirst three by hand until I got the bandsaw. Made loads since. I alsoadded a locknut to the height adjusting screw for obvious reasons.the top tool post locking nut just to change holders so I made a new one.It's just a piece of 1" round bar drilled and tapped M10 (check yours) with ahole in the side for a tommy barboring the centre hole, to cut a recess in the bottom to just clear the bottomlip of the post. This will allow the holder to sit lower down and soenable me to use slightly larger tools if needed.will move before the tool post does, it's that solid!maybe even better) than a dovetail post due to the large surface area oftouting > the benefits ofthough, I wasanyone > tried theother toolsreally > appreciated. |
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There are other references for tool setting:
The chuck face is perpendicular to the work. The tailstock ram is parallel to the work. Setting a tool relative to the chuck is easier with a parallel; either a rigid 6" rule or a center (fishtail) gauge is handy. Also, the ends of decent rules and the tips of the center gauge are ground square to the their bodies; either makes a convenient mini-square that's accurate enough for tool setting. FWIW, 1/4" pipe is ideal for making 1/2" to 3/8" adaptors: 0.54" OD, 0.36"ID (That's for common, schedule 40 pipe; the less common versions have different IDs.) Roy --- In 7x12minilathe@..., "John" <moran03@e...> wrote: I noticed the toolpost being discussed is round so it looks likeyou set the angle each time you change tools. I added the Phase IIcome up with is to chuck a rod and use my machinist square to get thethe chuck (another symptom of newbyitis, probably). There are timeswhen it would be nice to change the angle slightly (to reduce chatter)thing (it is meant for bars with larger shanks because the toolpost iscapability. on the sitepage.below but I believe it was originally designed by someone on thislist (Mert? Jim ?).differently I used1"LG4 gunmetal mainly because it was the only metal I had handy inthe sizerequired. It works fine but scratches rather easily. If you don'thave abandsaw or powered hacksaw, now is the time to buy one, cutting chunks ofmy2"x2" Al or steel is going to give you *big* shoulders :-) I cut firstremovethree by hand until I got the bandsaw. Made loads since. I alsoadded alocknut to the height adjusting screw for obvious reasons. the topatool post locking nut just to change holders so I made a new one.It's justa piece of 1" round bar drilled and tapped M10 (check yours) with hole inbottomthe side for a tommy barboring the lip ofcompoundthe post. This will allow the holder to sit lower down and soenable me touse slightly larger tools if needed. will movethebefore the tool post does, it's that solid! tootime for it ... until now. oflarge and cannot clamp down on a 0.375" bar.maybe justthe cylinder. How does it behave during heavy roughing cuts or made thetouting |
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