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So, for those who have no common sense and who are so scared :
please don't use nor drink water, whose scientific names are also
di-hydrogen monoxide and mono-oxygen di-hydride.
It is well known as being very dangerous. Among the risks are : an
excess can cause landslides, it dissolves rocks, perforates stone
and metals, and also clouds the pastis. Drinking too much of it can
lead to an edema.
That said, whatever the liquid, gas, or material is, always wear
googles, use gloves put a breathing mask and avoid breathing the
vapors or fumes. I assume that any adult would know this but, you're
right, a reminder may be useful.
In addition, don't cross the streets. Finally lots of people die in
their bed. A word of advice: don't go to bed. Keep sitting instead
:-)
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HCL?? Reads article… yup, HCL. ? Yeah, don’t heat up PVC so much where it goes past being all gooey, it releases chlorine (nasty stuff) that combines with water in the air to create hydrochloric acid.? Now breathing that isn’t too good for your lungs, but even worse it’ll make your lathe & other tools go rusty really quickly.? That’ll really upset you. ? Like most plastics PVC will start going soft at about 100C (boiling water temperatures), well below the stage where it’ll start outgassing and causing trouble. ? It’ll be fine. ? I once tried laser cutting polycarbonate.? It didn’t work, emitted a nasty looking yellow-brown smoke and made things go rusty, not recommended.? Yep, chlorine & HCL. ? Tony ? ?
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From: [email protected] <[email protected]> On Behalf Of mario mohl via groups.io
Sent: Monday, 28 October 2024 3:39 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [7x12MiniLathe] Mounting PVC Fitting for Boring? An anecdote?? ?Wow !? ? At least READ what you post.??exposure to fumes from an overheated (362 degrees C) PVC extruding machine. Fear mongering, pure and simple. ? Not bull... we've had workers that had to be hospitalized due to heating
PVC.
Do what you want.? Not fear mongering.
On 10/27/2024 11:29 AM, mario mohl via wrote:
> Bull....
> Overheating / burning it is a problem you want to avoid for more and bigger
> reasons than some fumes.
>
> Heat it by immersion in boiling water.
>
> Ventilation is also welcome, always, for many reasons as well.
>
> So yeah, don't lock yourself up in an airtight room to burn some PVC. That
> would be just as stupid as it sounds.
>
> Be sensible, the rest is fearmongering.
>
> On Sun, Oct 27, 2024 at 9:06?AM WAM via <ajawam2=
> [email protected]> wrote:
>
>> Careful when heating PVC... It gives off nasty fumes
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On 10/27/2024 7:00 AM, Pierre-Raymond Rondelle via wrote:
>>> I can confirm that Mario's method is an excellent one.
>>>
>>> In addition, if you want to restrain the diameter, use a glass jar into
>> you push
>>> the elbow in after hot air heating it. Don't use a flame, it may damage
>> the PVC
>>> and/or give a poor result. You also may turn a piece of metal tube at the
>>> required dimension. Keep in mind that in this case the metal tube shall
>> also be
>>> heated otherwise it will be difficult to restrain a plastic tube being
>> cooled by
>>> the cold tube during the operation.
>>>
>>> I used these two methods a lot of times and it always worked. If the
>> result
>>> isn't what you wanted, heat it again and it will almost recover its
>> original
>>> shape :-)
>>>
>>> It also works well on nylon tubing. I purchased 3/8" tube for my
>> compressed air
>>> distribution and it happened to be 10mm. My fittings were 3/8". Instead
>> of
>>> wasting time with a new order, I restrained the nylon tube using the
>> second
>>> method. No leak @ 8 bars for at least12 years.
>>>
>>>
>>> On 27.10.24 02:38, mario mohl via wrote:
>>>> Better still. Turn a wood dowel to the desired ID and use it to expand
>> the PVC
>>>> after slightly heating it
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
|
An anecdote?? ?Wow !? ?
At least READ what you post.??exposure to fumes from an overheated (362 degrees C) PVC extruding machine.
Fear mongering, pure and simple.
Not bull... we've had workers that had to be hospitalized due to heating
PVC.
Do what you want.? Not fear mongering.
On 10/27/2024 11:29 AM, mario mohl via wrote:
> Bull....
> Overheating / burning it is a problem you want to avoid for more and bigger
> reasons than some fumes.
>
> Heat it by immersion in boiling water.
>
> Ventilation is also welcome, always, for many reasons as well.
>
> So yeah, don't lock yourself up in an airtight room to burn some PVC. That
> would be just as stupid as it sounds.
>
> Be sensible, the rest is fearmongering.
>
> On Sun, Oct 27, 2024 at 9:06?AM WAM via <ajawam2=
> [email protected]> wrote:
>
>> Careful when heating PVC... It gives off nasty fumes
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On 10/27/2024 7:00 AM, Pierre-Raymond Rondelle via wrote:
>>> I can confirm that Mario's method is an excellent one.
>>>
>>> In addition, if you want to restrain the diameter, use a glass jar into
>> you push
>>> the elbow in after hot air heating it. Don't use a flame, it may damage
>> the PVC
>>> and/or give a poor result. You also may turn a piece of metal tube at the
>>> required dimension. Keep in mind that in this case the metal tube shall
>> also be
>>> heated otherwise it will be difficult to restrain a plastic tube being
>> cooled by
>>> the cold tube during the operation.
>>>
>>> I used these two methods a lot of times and it always worked. If the
>> result
>>> isn't what you wanted, heat it again and it will almost recover its
>> original
>>> shape :-)
>>>
>>> It also works well on nylon tubing. I purchased 3/8" tube for my
>> compressed air
>>> distribution and it happened to be 10mm. My fittings were 3/8". Instead
>> of
>>> wasting time with a new order, I restrained the nylon tube using the
>> second
>>> method. No leak @ 8 bars for at least12 years.
>>>
>>>
>>> On 27.10.24 02:38, mario mohl via wrote:
>>>> Better still. Turn a wood dowel to the desired ID and use it to expand
>> the PVC
>>>> after slightly heating it
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
|
Not bull... we've had workers that had to be hospitalized due to heating PVC.
Do what you want.? Not fear mongering.
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On 10/27/2024 11:29 AM, mario mohl via groups.io wrote: Bull....
Overheating / burning it is a problem you want to avoid for more and bigger
reasons than some fumes.
Heat it by immersion in boiling water.
Ventilation is also welcome, always, for many reasons as well.
So yeah, don't lock yourself up in an airtight room to burn some PVC. That
would be just as stupid as it sounds.
Be sensible, the rest is fearmongering.
On Sun, Oct 27, 2024 at 9:06?AM WAM via groups.io <ajawam2=
[email protected]> wrote:
Careful when heating PVC... It gives off nasty fumes
On 10/27/2024 7:00 AM, Pierre-Raymond Rondelle via groups.io wrote:
I can confirm that Mario's method is an excellent one.
In addition, if you want to restrain the diameter, use a glass jar into you push
the elbow in after hot air heating it. Don't use a flame, it may damage the PVC
and/or give a poor result. You also may turn a piece of metal tube at the
required dimension. Keep in mind that in this case the metal tube shall also be
heated otherwise it will be difficult to restrain a plastic tube being cooled by
the cold tube during the operation.
I used these two methods a lot of times and it always worked. If the result
isn't what you wanted, heat it again and it will almost recover its original
shape :-)
It also works well on nylon tubing. I purchased 3/8" tube for my compressed air
distribution and it happened to be 10mm. My fittings were 3/8". Instead of
wasting time with a new order, I restrained the nylon tube using the second
method. No leak @ 8 bars for at least12 years.
On 27.10.24 02:38, mario mohl via groups.io wrote:
Better still. Turn a wood dowel to the desired ID and use it to expand the PVC
after slightly heating it
|
Bull.... Overheating / burning it is a problem you want to avoid for more and bigger reasons than some fumes.
Heat it by immersion in boiling water.
Ventilation is also welcome, always, for many reasons as well.
So yeah, don't lock yourself up in an airtight room to burn some PVC. That would be just as stupid as it sounds.
Be sensible, the rest is fearmongering.
Careful when heating PVC... It gives off nasty fumes
On 10/27/2024 7:00 AM, Pierre-Raymond Rondelle via wrote:
> I can confirm that Mario's method is an excellent one.
>
> In addition, if you want to restrain the diameter, use a glass jar into you push
> the elbow in after hot air heating it. Don't use a flame, it may damage the PVC
> and/or give a poor result. You also may turn a piece of metal tube at the
> required dimension. Keep in mind that in this case the metal tube shall also be
> heated otherwise it will be difficult to restrain a plastic tube being cooled by
> the cold tube during the operation.
>
> I used these two methods a lot of times and it always worked. If the result
> isn't what you wanted, heat it again and it will almost recover its original
> shape :-)
>
> It also works well on nylon tubing. I purchased 3/8" tube for my compressed air
> distribution and it happened to be 10mm. My fittings were 3/8". Instead of
> wasting time with a new order, I restrained the nylon tube using the second
> method. No leak @ 8 bars for at least12 years.
>
>
> On 27.10.24 02:38, mario mohl via wrote:
> > Better still. Turn a wood dowel to the desired ID and use it to expand the PVC
> > after slightly heating it
>
>
|
Careful when heating PVC... It gives off nasty fumes
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
On 10/27/2024 7:00 AM, Pierre-Raymond Rondelle via groups.io wrote: I can confirm that Mario's method is an excellent one.
In addition, if you want to restrain the diameter, use a glass jar into you push
the elbow in after hot air heating it. Don't use a flame, it may damage the PVC
and/or give a poor result. You also may turn a piece of metal tube at the
required dimension. Keep in mind that in this case the metal tube shall also be
heated otherwise it will be difficult to restrain a plastic tube being cooled by
the cold tube during the operation.
I used these two methods a lot of times and it always worked. If the result
isn't what you wanted, heat it again and it will almost recover its original
shape :-)
It also works well on nylon tubing. I purchased 3/8" tube for my compressed air
distribution and it happened to be 10mm. My fittings were 3/8". Instead of
wasting time with a new order, I restrained the nylon tube using the second
method. No leak @ 8 bars for at least12 years.
On 27.10.24 02:38, mario mohl via groups.io wrote:
Better still. Turn a wood dowel to the desired ID and use it to expand the PVC after slightly heating it
|
I can confirm that Mario's method is an excellent one.
In addition, if you want to restrain the diameter, use a glass
jar into you push the elbow in after hot air heating it. Don't use
a flame, it may damage the PVC and/or give a poor result. You also
may turn a piece of metal tube at the required dimension. Keep in
mind that in this case the metal tube shall also be heated
otherwise it will be difficult to restrain a plastic tube being
cooled by the cold tube during the operation.
I used these two methods a lot of times and it always worked. If
the result isn't what you wanted, heat it again and it will almost
recover its original shape :-)
It also works well on nylon tubing. I purchased 3/8" tube for my
compressed air distribution and it happened to be 10mm. My
fittings were 3/8". Instead of wasting time with a new order, I
restrained the nylon tube using the second method. No leak @ 8
bars for at least12 years.
On 27.10.24 02:38, mario mohl via
groups.io wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Better still. Turn a wood dowel to the desired ID
and use it to expand the PVC after slightly heating it
|
In the coupling I bored the diameter out about 0.08" at the opening and tapered it about 1/2 degree as the bore extended into the fitting.? The vacuum fitting and the saw fitting required slightly different diameters.? That gave me a nice press-on fit.
On Saturday, October 26, 2024 at 05:32:58 PM PDT, mario mohl <mario.mohl@...> wrote:
How much do you want to bore it out?? Can't be much looking at the wall thickness. Use your lathe to make a boring tool, then move to the drill press
Glue or bolt it to a piece of material (wood or aluminum) that you can then mount in the 4-jaw.
?
|
Visit a local auto parts store; they'll probably loan you an exhaust pipe expanding tool that'll do the job.
?
?< >
?
?< >? More tractable version of the same URL.
?
Roy
|
Better still. Turn a wood dowel to the desired ID and use it to expand the PVC after slightly heating it
How much do you want to bore it out?? Can't be much looking at the wall thickness. Use your lathe to make a boring tool, then move to the drill press
Glue or bolt it to a piece of material (wood or aluminum) that you can then mount in the 4-jaw.
?
|
How much do you want to bore it out?? Can't be much looking at the wall thickness. Use your lathe to make a boring tool, then move to the drill press
Glue or bolt it to a piece of material (wood or aluminum) that you can then mount in the 4-jaw.
?
|
Glue or bolt it to a piece of material (wood or aluminum) that you can then mount in the 4-jaw.
?
|
??? no prob
animal
On 10/25/24 8:40 AM, Ellis Cory via
groups.io wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Hi
Animal. I apologise for being ‘bone idle’. ?
????????
Ellis
?
?
?
It sounded like he wanted to use his lathe , thats why i
piped in with my idea .
animal
|
I made the bore with a slight (about 1/2 degree) taper which gave a nice press-on fit for both the vacuum fitting and the saw fitting.? Couldn't do that on drill press or with hole saw (I don't think).
On Thursday, October 24, 2024 at 05:09:48 PM PDT, Roy via groups.io <roylowenthal@...> wrote:
If you have room? for it, a sweep elbow would be a better choice than a standard elbow.
?
?< >
?
I'd probably do it on the drill press, but to keep it a lathe project, you could mount the elbow on the carriage & use a boring head or suitable hole saw chucked in the spindle.
?
Roy
|
|
|
Hi Animal. I apologise for being ‘bone idle’. ? ???????? Ellis ? ? ? It sounded like he wanted to use his lathe , thats why i piped in with my idea . animal
|
Just a generic Home Depot webpage,
perhaps your location can not see this page intended for a
"Georgia" audience...?
On 10/25/2024 5:59 AM, Pierre-Raymond
Rondelle via groups.io wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
Access denied !
On 25.10.24 04:34, Jon Rus via
groups.io wrote:
Electrical grade PVC pipes have
even longer radius sweep ell's if you have the room...
They can even be 'STREET' style and
can be had at Home Depot and Lowes, (and others in your area).
...
|
Access denied !
On 25.10.24 04:34, Jon Rus via
groups.io wrote:
Electrical grade PVC pipes have even
longer radius sweep ell's if you have the room...
They can even be 'STREET' style and
can be had at Home Depot and Lowes, (and others in your area).
...
|
Electrical grade PVC pipes have even
longer radius sweep ell's if you have the room...
They can even be 'STREET' style and can
be had at Home Depot and Lowes, (and others in your area).
On 10/24/2024 8:09 PM, Roy via
groups.io wrote:
toggle quoted message
Show quoted text
If you have room? for it, a sweep elbow would be a better
choice than a standard elbow.
?
?<
>
?
I'd probably do it on the drill press, but to keep it a lathe
project, you could mount the elbow on the carriage & use a
boring head or suitable hole saw chucked in the spindle.
?
Roy
|
If you have room? for it, a sweep elbow would be a better choice than a standard elbow.
?
?< >
?
I'd probably do it on the drill press, but to keep it a lathe project, you could mount the elbow on the carriage & use a boring head or suitable hole saw chucked in the spindle.
?
Roy
|
