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Hi All,
After putting it off for way too long; I'm finally getting around to
upgrading my HF 93212 mini lathe with the LMS 5000 16" bed extension.
I have the lathe torn down. Decided to play it safe and put the
parts/screws in ziploc bags and label the bags with a sharpie so I won't
forget what they are. Also checked off each step in the instructions as
I disassembled the lathe.
Any tips/advice before I start Reassembly?? I did slip the carriage on
out of curiosity to see how it fit.? The front is fairly snug, but
there's a noticeable amount of play in the rear.
Stan
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Heh - wrote Take Pictures but you are already reassembling. The written instructions are lacking in a few areas. Watch how the gears go inside the gearbox. Hopefully you have plenty pf pictures. Make sure you are using good taps, not the cheap HF stuff. Mine broke after the fourth hole or so. Watch the video. He does skip a few minor things when reassembling as he plans on doing future upgrades. I also changed the bearings since I had mine apart.
Good luck
Ron
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I've done it, and it's a pretty straightforward project.? Just take your time.? I know they say it can be done quickly, but I took my time and did it over 2 days.? The instructions are complete, but I re-read them often.? You'll love the results!? I wound up with two 5" chucks, a 3-jaw self centering and 4-jaw independent.? I removed the safety shield as it was always in the way anyhow,?
I offered the old bed, lead screw and other non-used parts to anyone in this group for free, if they would pay the shipping - they went quickly.
ralphie
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Any photos you could posted?
Dave?
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Thanks all for the replies.
I'm going to take it a little slow reassembling it.? I did install
the rack today and managed to break the LMS 2.5 mm drill drilling
the first hole.? So, I used a #40 drill from my HF 115 piece set.? I
see LMS doesn't include enough screws for the rack. My rack has 5
holes, so I have 4 screws in it. I might be able to find a socket
head M3x10 locally.
Here's a couple of pics.
Stan
On 4/14/24 12:44, davesmith1800 wrote:
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Any photos you could posted?
Dave?
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Like photo?
As metric goes I have all taps in inch.?
So I pick a inch tap close to metric thread size.?
Like 6M I use 1/4NC?
Sometimes I have buy a metric? tap so today I 10MM x 1.0MM LH and one 12M tape.?
Dave?
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There are/were lots of discussions about the rear slide plate some time ago. On larger machines, setscrews through the slide plate are a common means of adjustment - on these relatively small machines, adding a filler piece is a better fix. When you get the slop down to a reasonable amount, you'll probably find you need to refine the surface on the underside of the bed.
IIRC, there were some folks who added the old bed to the longer one, with everything mounted on a rigid base.
Roy
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I should of taken more pics.? The only ones I took are of the
control box wiring.
The tap from LMS held up well, but the 2.5mm drill bit didn't.?
Tapping the holes was very easy.? Perhaps using the Tap Magic
EP-Xtra helped.
Yeah, I see some differences in the written instructions and the
video.? I'll sort it out as I continue this project.? Wondering if I
should drill oil holes in the lead screw brackets since my brackets
don't have oil holes.
Stan
On 4/14/24 06:30, Ron Y wrote:
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Heh - wrote Take Pictures but you are already
reassembling. The written instructions are lacking in a few
areas. Watch how the gears go inside the gearbox. Hopefully you
have plenty pf pictures. Make sure you are using good taps, not
the cheap HF stuff. Mine broke after the fourth hole or so.
Watch the video. He does skip a few minor things when
reassembling as he plans on doing future upgrades. I also
changed the bearings since I had mine apart.
Good luck
Ron
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I drilled and tapped my lead screw brackets and added zerk fittings.? Some others prefer oil, but I like zerks.? They work well on John Deere equipment bearings, so I trust them.
ralphie
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Aren't zerk fitting for injecting grease with a grease gun? How do you plan to use them for oil?
On Mon, Apr 15, 2024, 9:50 AM Ralph Lehotsky via <ralphlehotsky= [email protected]> wrote: I drilled and tapped my lead screw brackets and added zerk fittings.? Some others prefer oil, but I like zerks.? They work well on John Deere equipment bearings, so I trust them.
ralphie
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The lead screw brackets on my mini lathe do not have oil holes.?
Anyone know what size they should be?
Stan
On 4/15/24 08:50, Ralph Lehotsky wrote:
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I drilled and tapped my lead screw brackets and added zerk
fittings.? Some others prefer oil, but I like zerks.? They work
well on John Deere equipment bearings, so I trust them.
ralphie
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I think most people just drill them for push-in button oilers, so it would depend on the size of the oilers.? Could just drill a hole and oil through there, but that leaves the possibility of contamination from machining particles.
On Monday, April 15th, 2024 at 8:04 PM, Stan Gammons via groups.io <buttercup11421@...> wrote:
The lead screw brackets on my mini lathe do not have oil holes.
Anyone know what size they should be?
Stan
On 4/15/24 08:50, Ralph Lehotsky wrote:
I drilled and tapped my lead screw brackets and added zerk
fittings. Some others prefer oil, but I like zerks. They work
well on John Deere equipment bearings, so I trust them.
ralphie
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Drill a hole and push a piece of felt into it.? It will keep the swarf out, but still allow oil through.
Mike
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Yes.? Using a "wick" will usually work out fine if only a scant amount of oil is needed to get the job done.? It is my guess that the clearances involved in the parts, in general, on these things is loose enough that it might be hard to get enough oil in with a wick.
It is pretty typical to use an oil cup for this sort of thing, but they can be too bulky for some locations.? One nice thing is that you can flip the lid and see if you are "low" on oil.? But if the clearances are quite loose, the oil may drain out pretty quickly.
A Zerk fitting can certainly be used for oil.? It is more compact and you can shove anything through it you want.? But it's good to wipe it clean first so you avoid shoving debris in with the lubricant.
Charles E. "Chuck" Kinzer
On Monday, April 15, 2024 at 07:05:51 PM PDT, upand_at_them via groups.io <upand_at_them@...> wrote:
Drill a hole and push a piece of felt into it.? It will keep the swarf out, but still allow oil through.
Mike
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The oil cup is good if you can fit it.? The problem with zerks, as mentioned, is that fine metal particles will collect where the ball meets the body so every time you push some lube in you're also pushing the grit in.? Whether you wipe or not.? Get ones that have covers.
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Mike - I don't use oil - I inject white lithium based grease in the brackets.
ralphie
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You can buy a grease gun that takes oil.?
I have made a manifold oiler.
I used 1/8" copper tubing solder in a mill block for oil .? Use a pipe cleaner down to meter out the after filling milled oil cup
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Miket_NYC
5:00pm? ?
Aren't zerk fitting for injecting grease with a grease gun? How do you plan to use them for oil?
Mike Taglieri
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On Tue, Apr 16, 2024 at 12:06 PM, Ralph Lehotsky wrote:
I don't use oil - I inject white lithium based grease in the brackets.
I used to use grease in mine, too -- until I added a hand crank to my lead screw.? I couldn't figure out WHY the LS was relatively difficult to turn, until I replaced the grease with oil.? Apparently the large contact area(s) + the high viscosity of the grease produces a noticeable amount of drag.
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All ya need is a coat of oil on the shafts . A lot like the old
lathes where the spindle ran in a coat of oil . There's also
several articles on line on converting a small grease gun to
dispense oil .
animal
On 4/16/24 9:34 AM, Mark Kimball wrote:
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On Tue, Apr 16, 2024 at 12:06 PM, Ralph Lehotsky wrote:
I don't use oil - I inject white lithium based grease
in the brackets.
I used to use grease in mine, too -- until I added a hand crank to
my lead screw.? I couldn't figure out WHY the LS was relatively
difficult to turn, until I replaced the grease with oil.?
Apparently the large contact area(s) + the high viscosity of the
grease produces a noticeable amount of drag.
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My lathe came without a hole. I thought that showed cheapness at its extreme. Anyway, I just drilled a hole in each one. A very small hole. Small enough that I think I risk little intrusion by swarf. Even then I can just look because any grease in the hole will stop any thing from entering. Then I use synthetic grease using a chainsaw grease gun to introduce grease. Takes very little.? But in actuality, considering the turning rate and the lack of much pressure on the actual bearing surface, once the surface is greased, it may not require greasing for a long time. Using this grease I can easily turn my lead screw with my thumb and forefinger, very very very little resistance.? Using white grease is a thicker kind of grease. It is a thicker grease and eventually it will start to get stiffer or harden up. If your lead screw turns very easily without any lube and then gets hard using grease then it's the grease. If it turns stiffly without anything then you need to fix that issue. I dont use oil because it just runs out and makes a mess.?
george
On Tuesday, April 16, 2024 at 09:34:14 AM PDT, Mark Kimball <markkimball51@...> wrote:
On Tue, Apr 16, 2024 at 12:06 PM, Ralph Lehotsky wrote:
I don't use oil - I inject white lithium based grease in the brackets.
I used to use grease in mine, too -- until I added a hand crank to my lead screw.? I couldn't figure out WHY the LS was relatively difficult to turn, until I replaced the grease with oil.? Apparently the large contact area(s) + the high viscosity of the grease produces a noticeable amount of drag.
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Ralph Lehotsky
davesmith1800
chrisser