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Lower speed and/or a shop apron help, especially for those of us that don't like to expose our shortcomings to machinery <g> Roy wrote: machine out cutting

That can be prevented by not wearing shorts. :) As to the original poster, doesn't that first piece off your machine make you feel good? Dave Clint D wrote:

It is sort of like going off of the high diving board for the first time but you acclimate with remarkable ease! Bill in Boulder "Engineering as an Art Form!"

Kent Them metal splinters, hehe! just don't get em in your shorts! Clint

Well folks, I fired up my lathe for the first time. I started out by squaring the ends of on a scrap piece of brass, and then cutting two small grooves on one end. Then I used the center bore, and

It may not be the best, but an easy way to test your location is to hang a piece of clean steel in it for a few days. If it rusts, just repeat the test using simple rustproofing methods - oil or

--- In 7x12minilathe@..., "Kent Killam" <soberman@a...> wrote: Thoughts, suggestions, pointers, all most Kent you got a goldmine in the 150 watt lightbulb idea. cover your equiptment with

Would it be reliably centered in a 4 jaw scroll chuck? A little playing with drafting templates makes me wonder about the centering. (It's possible to grab a square piece in a 3 jaw scroll chuck; it's

Kent, it isn't just the temperature but the humidity and how the temperature swings through a day. If you were at the south pole then things wouldn't rust even though they were very cold. This is

What would be the best way to determine if a location was acceptable for a shop. I plan to setup my shop in an old basement, I am wondering if it might be too humid and cause corrosion of my tools. Is

there is one point that will allow you to fit a hexagonal piece in a 4 jaw, just turn it round till all jaws grip it equally DAVID WILLIAMS BOLTON ENGLAND www.smartgroups.com/groups/fliers

Good Morning Kent: Best bet against the rust issue is to keep the machines well oiled - I use Mobil 1 on all exposed parts, and to cover your machines when not in use. If you intend on working during

If you don't heat the place you will have problems. I have my shop in a cellar, I have problems with humidity in the summer. Same basic issue. I would suggest insulation and a modest amount of heat.

The trick I learned is to never clean the cutting oil (I use Mobil 1 synthetic oil) off the lathe. I smear it around when I brush off the chips. Then, I keep the lathe covered with the brown cardboard

All you really need is a good roof and just enough heat to raise the internal temperature above ambient for most moist areas. We use small heaters or 150 watt lights to preserve electrical equipment

wrote: Yes you are... I use both Mil-Spec CLP slathered all over exposed surfaces as well as LPS #3. Also, if you can do it and afford it insulate and heat the shed.

I need some assistance here folks. I live in the North East, Cape Cod Mass to be exact. My work area is a 10x14 shed that has electricity. My plan was to set up my shop there with a mill, lathe and a

I need some assistance here folks. I live in the North East, Cape Cod Mass to be exact. My work area is a 10x14 shed that has electricity. My plan was to set up my shop there with a mill, lathe and a

I have the one from LMS. It works well. Be sure to order the adapter plate and studs for it. You'll see those items in a reminder at the bottom of the chuck page. Nice thing about LMS is that Chris is

Sold, 4"-4 Jaw independent must be the way to go. Most of what I am turning is round stock up to 10 inches long. And I need it as tight and accurate as possible. I think when I'm ready to step up to a