开云体育

I am looking for temperature be for smoke. I can only go by what in print. I hope motor stays cool. The? ambient used is either 40°C or 45°C? plus 60°C for motor. It all for longer

Here's a pic of the motor that goes on my mini lathe. Looks like it's rated class E, which is 120 C per a wikipedia article. Stan

You're drilling lots of these holes, so it would waste too much time to use a spotting drill, mill flats on the rod, and so on. Instead I would use a guide block, but different than the one in your

Those are not operating temperatures, they are MAXIMUM temperatures. You want to be as far away from them as possible. If your casing is 80 degrees then your armature is far hotter than that.

The idea of a spotting drill is they have an angle slightly bigger than your drill, so 120 or 140 degree is typical. This means the drill starts off nice and centred as opposed to what happens with

Here is max temperature from Baldor to last 20,000 hours. Remember this a Chinese motor could be a little less. Most motors under 100 hp use class A Temperature (°C) Maximum Winding Temperature

The 105° is class A motor Insulation witch most motor use. The temperature drops as pass to outside casing. After that I use 176°F [ 80°C] for outside case? max temperature just to be on safe

Thanks Tony I learned a new word to day: spotting drill I had one in my box, always wounder how it looks so “funny” . It was also not good to drill a 10 mm hole with. To morrow I will check my

Well it shouldn’t, but I’m not the one trying to measure it. I don’t know what Dave thinks he’s measuring, but that 105°C he’s set as his upper limit (over boiling water temperature, by

Use a spotting drill to make a pilot hole. They're roughly the same thing as a centre drill except wider tip angle (centre drill is 60 degree). Then again a centre drill would probably work just

If drilling "a lot" of holes, milling a flat on the rod is not practical. A grooved block with a guide hole will be far more practical [email protected]> wrote:

Yea - I modified? it so it has very little drag.? It works well.?? I bought a mag DRO for it but I'm waiting to do the 16" bed mod to put it on.

You might try pushing the bit further into the chuck as a way to shorten the bit even though it will be on the flutes some. Paul M

Thanks boys, you have given me some new idea. I am lazy, so I will first shorten a drillbit to minimum so it will not be so flexible. Only 3 mm visible length. I have a good mill. The rod is cheap

Standard drill bits are springy and will bend, this is why they wonder around. Start the hole with a “center drill” these is very short and stubby drills that are only used to make a “V”

All of Mark’s comments are valid (especially milling a flat spot to keep the drill from trying to wander when it starts to cut). Because of its small diameter, you will want the drill to be

Hi johannes, Check if your drill works OK on ordinary flat material.? Maybe it's dull. Check if your rod is rotating while you are trying to drill it.? The drill may be creating forces that want

Maybe this is wrong group, however, a lot of clever members: I have to make a lot of 1 mm holes in 2 mm steel rods. I have made a guide, and as you see, a lot of testing guide hole to compensate for

Aha!? I thought I had seen something similar but couldn't remember where. I like your swarf shield, that's something that still needs to be done.? The portion behind my bracket is easy but the

Very elegant solutions gentleman! Ryan