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That is my experience, too. In my mind, advancing the timing of the brushes is not logical, for what is happening inside an electric motor is essentially happening at the speed of light. Advancing

That's why I weasel worded what I posted! The controllers are standard commercial units, they're presumably set up to work with any suitably sized motor without damaging either the motor or

Hello Again, HF's shows to keep the dial disconnected until you need it. Is that correct to keep it backed off, disengaged while not threading? Next, when I adjusted it to be engaged, it spins when

Actually, after I took the back cover off, electronics cover off, rear gears off and lead screw off, just to adjust the belt, all I had left to do was to take out the 3 screws that hold the headstock

Part of it is the difficulty most folks have with visualizing 3 dimensional objects. There's a classic puzzle with 3 holes; a circle, a square & a triangle, all with the same major size. Very few

There's a design for an improved motor mount, based on a gate hinge, in the "files"

I've heard time and time again, the motors being set to run in the"main" direction, but never have I seen it documented by the equipment manufacturer. I think it's an old wives tale!

That may be true on some motors. However, my gear reducer lacks John's idler, and I have been running my lathe motor in reverse for 3 years now without any ill effect. My motor, which is a 350 watt

Some of the controllers are set up to add a speed limiting resistor in reverse. That's supposedly because the brushes are advanced a few degrees to improve efficiency when the motor is running in the

Taking the headstock off looks like it would be harder than it actually is! http://www.mini-lathe.com/Mini_lathe/Tuning/tuning.htm#Headstock Roy

You need to remove the headstock to access the speed change gearing. On mine, the shift linkage needed some fiddling to get it give full gear engagement in both speeds. Since the shifter works by

Thanks to everyone who replied! The piece is about 2.375"x4" and I was not using the tailstock (I still need to cut down my drill chuck arbor to fit into the tailstock.) I am going to try using the

Nope. Ann Arbor, MI.

I don't know this product, but I do know that if the motor has either lead strapped to ground or common, swapping the red and black wire blindly may well release the "magic blue smoke"..... ....magic

IMO, high speed, VERY shallow cuts. Concentrics expose the cutting tool to alternating shock forces rather than constant pressure and any play in the tool holding/driving mechanisms will show up on

I don't have the LMS milling attachment, but a Palmgren milling attachment, which is bigger and has more capacity (and I got used for about the price of the LMS milling attachment). The LMS design

OK I admit I've always been eccentric. But I would like some advice on turning eccentric. (On the mini Lathe) I am turning the outside of an off centered brass cylinder in the 4 jaw chuck such that

i bought lms's starter kit and it came with the carbide set. not sure why it comes with the carbide but i'm now wishing it had the hss set. i guess i will have to get a hss set so any recommendations