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You already have answers for the "no reverse" problem. FYI, these lathes *all* run slower in reverse than forward. It is just another "feature". It appears to actually be intentional, since there is a

There are other references for tool setting: The chuck face is perpendicular to the work. The tailstock ram is parallel to the work. Setting a tool relative to the chuck is easier with a parallel;

Greetings Mr. Hawk, if you don't already know, both machines are made in the same factory by Sieg. The main difference is with the accessories that are included with the Grizzly. The Grizzly includes

-HAWK- I bought a Grizzly myself http://www.grizzly.com and have been very happy with it. There is alot of packing grease to remove! If you have a bent chip tray they will replace it no questions

I noticed the toolpost being discussed is round so it looks like you set the angle each time you change tools. I added the Phase II toolpost and find setting the angle awkward when it needs to be

Hi Den, Don't give me the credit for designing this project. I found it on the site below but I believe it was originally designed by someone on this list (Mert ? Jim ?). I am more than pleased with

<woodnpen@o...> wrote: is simply not able to withstand the torque required for die- threading, is that it? 1/4-20 is a tough one, of course, I have no problem with 1/4-28. Just the nature of the beast

John, Thanks for the info. I will contact Homier on Monday George --- John <moran03@...> wrote:

Hi George, AFIK the forward/reverse is not a common problem with the Homier 7x12's. This sounds like a problem with the f/r switch and Homier will likely ship a new one quickly once you contact them.

I just (2 days ago) received my new (Homier)Speedway 7 x 12 mini-lathe and the reverse stopped working. It worked the 1st couple of days but the RPMs were half of the forward speed in high and low

I suspect you are right. I think so, although I have never tried it. I have *lapped* a lead screw thread on another machine, and it does seem to have worked well. I cut a matching thread in a piece of

<woodnpen@o...> wrote: you very much!!! Yes, I use tapmagic, and I did not use the waterpipe extension on the chuck key, figured it I could not hold it using my hands on teh chuck key something was

A "Thread Restoring File" will do a better job of refining the threads than free-hand sandpaper. You'll need one that includes M1.0; should be available from a local auto parts store. Roy I since not

Steve: I've had that qctp bookmarked for some time but have not found the time for it ... until now. I just bought and am returning a micro qctp from Phase II. The hardare is cheap and many screws

As part of adding a ball bearing and more travel to my cross slide I removed the cross slide lead screw. I noted a sludge on the lead screw which looks like powdered brass mixed with grease. I suspect

Are you sure that it is not hardened? Some users have confused drill ROD with drill BLANKS. Drill blanks are hardened and can't be turned in the lathe. Drill rod can also be in a hardened state that

The chuck will improve if it's reduced to its component parts, deburred and lubricated. There's usually one jaw that binds against the body, reducing the clamping force. All that being said, drill rod

I was using a die. Single point is not a problem. So the chuck is simply not able to withstand the torque required for die-threading, is that it? 1/4-20 is a tough one, of course, I have no problem

I have a cheapie from LMS. The mounting bar ripped off the first time I used it. I retapped for 8-32 and it's worked OK since. * REPLY SEPARATOR *

Ah, that's an idea, start single point, finish with die... thank you very much!!! Yes, I use tapmagic, and I did not use the waterpipe extension on the chuck key, figured it I could not hold it using