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Good Morning, Frank: I managed to get the headstock shimmed dead center with the tail stock height. I placed a length of 12L14 between centers and indicated along the top and rear of the stock.

Well, I guess if you had both models sitting side by side you could say that the older model is dark blue and the new model is light blue. But without the other one to compare to, you could say the

Charlie and Frank, When speaking to Homier customer service the question always asked is "dark blue or light blue". Having never seen both colors it is difficult to answer. If they are trying to

Hi Frank, is the dark blue one the new version? Charlie

Well, you needed an excuse to buy a mill anyway. You won't regret having one. Frank Hoose http://www.mini-lathe.com --- Nick DeFeo <ntdefeo@...>

The quality varies from machine to machine, but from what I have seen and heard, has steadily gotten better over the last few years. The new ones are usually very good right out of the box, although

Shimming is valid; I suspect they'd replace your lathe with current production, not an exact duplicate of original. Shimming is also much easier to undo than cutting ;-) Roy times, and wonder

Point well taken Roy, although I have contacted Homier several times, and wonder if I do exercise the option to return the lathe, if they will give me the "newer" style 7 X 12, or another of the

My thinking on a flycutter was primarily for surface finish. With either an endmill or a flycutter it's going to require multiple passes of light cuts. With no rational reason, I prefer the

My thinking on a flycutter was primarily for surface finish. With either an endmill or a flycutter it's going to require multiple passes of light cuts. With no rational reason, I prefer the

I can appreciate your concerns completely and had for some months prior to purchasing a Homier 7X12 been paralyzed due to same. Any of the 7X1x lathes will be somewhat deficient if real precision is

I guess it all comes down to this: If money and space were no object, then a brand new South Bend 10" or one of the other lathes out there would fill the bill. On the other hand, for hobby/limited

I realize a new lathe needs to be adjusted and tweaked but yall are getting into milling and shimming a new lathe to get it to line up right. Is this typical for these Asian lathes. If I couldnt get

Roy: I am wondering if using end mills might be better suited in correcting the base, due to the limited amount of stock that needs to be removed from each surface, especially when quasi

I think this a case of one gets what one pays for. There are some nice German lathes of a similar size but four to five times the price, at least in the UK. For many hobbyist buying cheap and

A milling machine is the nicest way, but, a cross-slide milling attachment (Varmint Al's) and a fly cutter will work. Once the errors are "mapped," mount the pieces (with shims) to indicate the

Thanks for the site Frank, now all I need do is purchase a mill and some extras to accomplish this task! Nick Frank Hoose <fhoose@...> wrote:Rick Kruger has posted some info on aligning the

Rick Kruger has posted some info on aligning the ts: http://warhammer.mcc.virginia.edu/ty/7x10/vault/Members/RickKruger/Tailstock/BaseMod/MillingBase.html --- Nick DeFeo <ntdefeo@...> wrote:

Roy: Should the material be removed from the base or the tail stock casting, or both? I imagine it will require setting either piece accurately in all three planes prior to cutting. How should

My choice would be cutting on the tailstock. A number of people have found that the tailstock machining is not parallel to the bed/headstock axis. You've now got room to correct errors without