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Actually, that old plumber's "3 basic rules" apply just as well to brazing as to soft soldering. You're just using different flux and (a lot) more heat. Mike Taglieri [email protected]> wrote:

You do not want to "solder" a steam boiler! You need to braze it. I do have to admit I have soldered a steam coil which was not directly fired. Ralph [email protected]> wrote:

The old plumber who taught me to solder had 3 basic rules: 1. Cleanliness is the key to success - surfaces to be soldered MUST be cleaned to bright, shiny metal. 2. Flux is your friend - apply it to

Johannes, I am not very good at soldering and I am scared of boilers bursting so I use a small air compressor to run my steam engines. Yes the plans were converted to metric by Mr. J. de Waal in New

Hi David A beautiful machinery, keeps us updated. Missing the boiler, is it possible to make one, or do you need a big air pump? And the drawing is in

It is a 2 cylinder double sided beam engine. A bit too big for my small machines, I will try to attach the plan

Looks good, David.? What's the engine you're building? Mike

I have eventually got round to machining the flywheel, I opted for drilling and boring 4 x 40mm holes and mounting it in my 4" x 4 jaw scroll chuck as suggested by davesmith1800. This took a while but

That is a new one. I have place to put morse drift key on Aloris Thank you Dave

If you have more mt2 tools than mt2 QCTP holders... -- Bruce Johnson The less a man knows about how sausages and laws are made, the easier it is to steal his vote and give him botulism.

I think miss something Why do need remove it? Dave

Yea - used one of those too, until I made this.? So much quicker to just drop it in and pop the arbor out...

You could also use a regular 2 jaw puller with a short piece of rod. Paul M

Tried that... they seemed a bit? flimsy for some of the mt2 arbors I had. I even mod'ed them to get rid of the thin section. Plus like all gear pullers they're a bit of a pain to deal with. With

Another way is to use a faucet handle puller, which saves having another single use tool. <

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VAurD__oP38

This is yet another variation of a fusible alloy which is manufactured by Cerrobend and other smelters. And yes it is pretty strong and can be brittle. An AI search disclosed that Cerrobend “is a

Cerrosafe should be strong enough though I have never tried it like that. I have used it making chamber casts in firearms. Depending on the application, there may be enough "sprue" left over to turn

From their site, it initially shrinks, then expands a little after it solidifies: < https://boltonmetalproducts.com/products/cerrosafe-bolton-160-190 > Other thing, 1/2"-20 is a UNF thread,

??? SO is Cerosafe strong enough to pour into a threaded hole & then cut a slot & unscrew it ? Do ya have to use some kind of release agent ? From what little reading I just did ( wikipedia ) ,