开云体育

Not a bad idea - batteries run out to fast.? ? ?But being visually impaired, I'll stick with the digital type. I have not done so, but it's no different from using a digital caliper as the

FYI JB Weld is about 4,700 psi Deacon is about 8,700psi high in cost also use on machine tool bed repair. In hobby work JB Weld is lot easier to use over welding and low cost. The Devcon is great it

It would better to see for photos for right recommendation. If cast iron jaws or location the typical the cast is about 25,000psi. If steel it could go a lot high to 100,000 psi a different problem

Yes, I know this can be done with digital calipers. I'm talking about doing it with a non-electronic dial caliper. Has anyone done it THAT way? Mike Taglieri wrote:

I like dial indicator only on the cross slide because will not skip on 0.001 or greater. The rest of time digital read out if skips 0.001 or .002 I still have a good part. Dave

This what did on my mill. Dave

I agree with mike allen with JB Weld. Dave

I think someone mentioned that ya can get battery holder's with a switch , some double sided tape to hold the battery holder on the tailstock . Or ya can add yer own switch to one

I'd leave them there if they don't affect the function of the vise . Look at it this way , the holes? just yer dads way of signing the vise before he gave it to ya , think about him every time ye use

I just bought a Shars 6" dial caliper after admiring one belonging to a friend. It's probably the best and most durable dial caliper I've ever had. But I also have a Chinese dial caliper that's

Thd best is cast iron filler next is braising. The big question is are you good at braising. If not JB is a good option. They do make better fillers but at higher cost. But JB is found at the local

JB Weld IS a metal filled epoxy and is plenty strong enough for this. Mike Taglieri [email protected]> wrote:

I inherited a nice little used milling vise from my Dad.? It's been sitting on a shelf for a bit waiting for me to clean it up and put it to use. There's a couple spots where it looks like someone

Back before WW1 they gave as Bed length. Lather it was center to center till Chinese lathes came out and they use a both center to center or chuck face face to center. Which I only found out last

I found it better to buy the correct steel and it makes life easier. Scrap is low cost or even free but it can be a pain too. Dave

The VERY first thing I'd do is do a file test for hardness. If it’s hardened you’ll want to anneal it first! I agree with the recommendations for using HSS, because of the interrupted cut. That

Probably many factors involved. Some small vintage USA lathes gave the centers standard and with the tailstock overhanging the end of the bed granting a couple extra inches of length for some reduced

Check this out - custom steady rest: https://www.ajawamnet.com/ajawam3/swarf/lgsteady.JPG this was for as LED lighting project for a subway system...

I would definitely take it off the lathe and get most of the heavy rust removed with coarse sandpaper or coarse wire brush/wheel first. It's not too big to turn. -- Lone Tree, Colorado? ?USA

On the same idea as animal said. Take the bar out and use a wire brush in an electric drill.? That will be more aggressive than ScotchBrite.? Once you have all the surface rust off you can get an