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I have rechecked everything mentioned and that yielded nothing notable. There was no jamming or anything of the sort. The switch operates as it should. I still get a fault (yellow lamp is lit. I am

charles wrote: Wow. That thing's amazing. Might work better on paper than in practice, indeed! But I can certainly see the attraction. Comes with a free cord winding mechanism! ;-) In addition to the

If you do something like store it on a bench to the side front to back, you could have a shelf surface above where the lathe is stored to provide some additional flat surface.? You would still have

Charles, thanks for all your thoughts on chip cleanup. Sounds like the problem is about what I thought it would be. A problem, for sure, but not insurmountable. There's already a rug on the way out of

mike wrote: Ha! That's great! It's particularly amusing to me, since my main reason for getting a lathe is that I collect and restore antique sewing machines, and they sometimes need parts or screws

Sound like work just fine. Watch length to short and may give problems with dills and boring . Need at least 12" between chuck face and tail stock. Dave FYI I have 14" between chuck face and tail

Think wheels.? I have my mini lathe on a HF cabinet that provides storage for all the accessories that one tends to accumulate.? 3d printer mounted on a rolling cabinet from Home Depot that provides

I would think that if yer gonna try to store a mini lathe on end that is should be mounted to a solid base for horizontal use that can double as part of what would be needed to hold it vertically .

The fuse can only protect when there is only one path for a return current and fusing N does not protect L from returning on GROUND. Yes, it does matter where the fuse is. wrote:

I don't see any reason you can't store a mini-lathe on end.? (Unlike some larger lathes, it doesn't have any "oil bath" areas where oil could run out.) Regarding clean up, usually it is common to

On the electrical and computer side, it is just LCNC with three stepper motors, So the LCNC documentation applies. But on the mechanical side, there is custom-made parts that fit the motors to the HF

My small shop is decidedly mixed-use: wood work (manual, plus occasional CNC milling), some electronics (Raspberry Pi type stuff), general homeowner workbench use, and, hopefully someday soon,

Remember when replacing fuse there three basic types standard,? slow blow and fast blow. Slow blow is use for motors and welders. Fast is used on electronics.? Check with manufacturer to see witch

The purpose of a fuse is to protect the wires and prevent a fire. In that case it does not matter where the fuse is. As for AC electrical safety that is the job of the breaker box. New construction

The schematic that came with my Micromark/MicoLux #84631 7x16 (purchased in 2014) shows the fuse on the Line: I can't think of any reason it would be otherwise: protecting the neutral and not the hot

Yes, keep the low voltage circuits isolated from the lathe AC ground. Ferrite beads are to suppress high frequency noise and won't do anything to suppress full line AC if by chance line voltage is

The fuse must be on the hot leg. You can fuse both L and N, but if the fuse blows in that diagram and the emergency switch is engaged (either from failure on the switch or re-engagement) then line

RE:? fuse on the neutral side.? There might be a couple of reasons why it's on that leg.? The first is that the fuse is user-replaceable so it's less dangerous in terms of inadvertently coming in

For a while Grizzly was selling off South Bend lathes assembled from leftover stock. But $26,000 for a "New"SB was a bit much! Bill wrote:

I have never purchased from Grizzly I have purchased from Amazon,? Walmart,? HF and https://littlemachineshop.com/products/products.php Dave