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You can add plate for more work aera too. It limit on stork to 2" x 3" . This should do almost everything needed for milling. When had Bridgeport with 48" table most was done 5"x5" in rare I need to

Hi Tom, The fwd/rev switch is prone to having swarf fall through the opening around the lever and cause major damage to the electronics should it short the wrong terminals.? Consider fitting a shield

please, when you send a message, put the original language as well. At least, GoogleTrans will help. Thks

It's pretty common on these lathes to have the? lead screw bracket's mounting wonky .A lot of folks have had to re drill/enlarge the screw holes to get things lined up . animal

Like the pdf how complex it can be . The way I found is paper between the gears on setup. It fast and easy. Most gears like a gap of 0.005" [0.12mm] . You adjust the paper layers till gears run quite.

Here's that gear problem picture. Adding an M8 washer on the Stud moved Gear B off contacting the Left Bracket and gears engage more - is that a reasonable solution?

I like photos posted It helps see how others did the setup. This not my first mill attachment. I had a Pamgram on 9A South Bend back in the 1960's. Then did not know what I was doing. I learn with

I read somewhere (don't remember) that if you use a slip of thin paper (newsprint works well) between the gears, that is the clearance you need. You crush the paper as you mesh the gears and tighten.

I should have noted - I have just upgraded my LMS 7x12 with a 7x16 Bed Extension and find the gnashing is actually Gear B just barely contacting behind Gear D on it's back edge. The gears have ~2/3

If you have the circular piece of metal you want to make into the wheel you can do the following: Clickspring has a good video on how-to mark out these holes

Tom, Is the F/O/R switch a DPDT (for just switching the polarity to the DC motor) or are there additional poles on that switch? Some of the mini lathes have an additional? pole on the F/O/R switch

Yeah, probably too tight. The plastic gears also tend to have tight and loose spots. When I was using them I set like I did back when I raced RC and slot cars. Use some news print. Put two thicknesses

Forgot to mention that this design makes it very simple to accurately clamp workpieces in the attachment; remove the four screws holding it to the cross-slide and clamp the whole thing ‘on it’s

I have the same ( or similar clone) one, I made a small pallet with a piece of ?” plate to attach to my cross slide in place of the compound. The screws shown fit into the mount for the compound,

Bret, I got frustrated with adjusting the change gears a while back. and conceived the design shown in the attached PDF. I have posted this before. Regards, John Mattis (retired mechanical engineer)

somebody cab? schow me? ?howto? make? the? wheell whit?? all the? hole?cab I do not? hVE? nY? MILLING? JUST? A VINTAGE? LATE AND A DRILL how? you can make? all these? hole maybe?

Easy to check continuity on the switch with a VOM…or maybe a wire got disconnected while you were fixing the fuse.

It made in China. They do there designing by just copying a good product. It cost $59.00 free shipping. It part of my down sizing It nice to have some type mill. The next part is mounting to lathe.

Thanks everyone for you response. I cleaned the pot with alcohol and while I was inside found that the fuse holder had a loose wire. Put everything back together and the erratic RPM problem is solved

Except for the second handle that looks identical to the one for the Taig lathe . animal